This will be the last job I do before we move, a friend from church asked if I'd be interested in repairing her grandfathers dining table, it's a nice piece, I've always liked the mid century dining elegance. I am deciding how to repair this and what steps I'll take. I have the leg base off to the side, the top is beautiful, the table is mahogany, and the top is a substrate with Mahogany veneers and a boxwood banding on the edge separated by an inlay. I've proposed two methods for repair to the owner, one is to duplicate the turnings from scratch, but as you can see the dowel joint was a bad design, and left it prone to breakage as it did.Or, I can cut the damaged portions down to the good wood, and make up the height with an ornamental block of mahogany for both sets of legs so they are the same.This'll be fun!I dug in a little with AI, according to AI in the 50's through early 60's they used Urea-Formaldehyde or PVA (Tightbond), so the joints could be a bear to separate, and I'll have to do some separating on other parts of the table. Production was in high gear during this time for this North Carolina manufacturer, and they started using the modern glues. There is a small chance it's assembled with animal hide glue, so here is my question to the community.Does this sound correct for determining which glue is present?Perform the Alcohol or Vinegar TestBecause you cannot identify the exact batch choice visually, you need to apply a small amount of liquid to a hidden bit of squeeze-out on the joint to see what breaks it down:If it is Hide Glue: Dabbing a small amount of rubbing alcohol or warm water onto the joint will cause the adhesive to turn slightly tacky, gummy, or soft within a few minutes.If it is Urea-Formaldehyde or PVA: Alcohol will have zero effect. Instead, applying warmed white vinegar will slowly begin to break down the bond and turn it chalky or soft.

First I want to thank John Morris for providing the Patriot Woodworkers forums to everyone here. I've been here now for ten years and it has been a great experience for me. Great people giving great advice every time I asked for it. I originally began with the Handyman Club of America years ago, and later turned to the Wood magazine forums until they closed shop. This forum has been the greatest experience for me. Great people giving good advice and no one with an attitude to criticize what you do. Everyone here was new to me except one. GrampaDave has been with me from almost day one with the Handyman Club of America. I will be turning 95 on August. Failing health ended my woodworking when I turned 93, but I enjoyed every minute of it. After it ended for me these forums kept me abreast of what everyone else here doing. I enjoy watching everyone progress weather its building a piece of furniture or a Jig for the shop or building your homes. I ended my woodworking making a number of bandsaw boxes. I can honestly say that everyone who receive one of my bandsaw boxes was very happy with it. I still hear their praise regularly and they comment on how it being used . I even got a comment from a lady who told me she was dusting in her home and when win to lift the box it weighed a ton. Her husband was using it to store his bullets before she got a chance to use it. Lately my health has been hit or miss, so I just wanted to say thank you John and thank you all for making these forums a great place. Keep up the good work and happy wood working.

IntroductionYou are viewing the "State Trees" section from the book title "American Woods" by Shelley E. Schoonover. The table below is a representation of our states official and or adopted trees from the publish date of 1951.The state of Alaska was not represented in Mrs. Schoonover's orginal publication of her book, as statehood was approved by Congress on July 7, 1958. Alaska was officially proclaimed a state on January 3, 1959, after her book was published.Also Hawaii was not included in the states list, statehood was granted on August 21, 1959, 8 years after the publishing of American Woods.I have included the two remaining states to avoid any confusion on the readers part.Legend and Definitions"Spp." is the abbreviation for "species." It means that the author is referring to all species in that given genus. Often it is also used when the author doesn't know the specific species but knows that it is in a certain genus; i.e., there are many plants in the genus Salvia, and they can all be lumped together in Salvia spp.(a) Officially designated by legislative action.(b) Selected by popular vote of the people or unofficially recognized.(c) Prominent tree growing within the State.StateCommon NameBotanical NameYear AdoptedAlabama(c) Slash PinePinus cariaea AlaskaSitka spruce Picea sitchensis1962Arizona(c) Honey MesquiteProsopis fuliflora Arkansas(a) PinePinus spp.1939California(a) Coast Redwood ("California Redwood")Sequoia sempervirens4/3/37Colorado(a) Colorado Blue SprucePicea pungens var. glauca1939Connecticut(a) White OakQuercus alba1947Delaware(a) American Holly ("Holly")Ilex opaca1939District of Columbia(c) American Sycamore and Black CherryPlatanus occidentalis & Prunus serotina Florida(b) Cabbage Palmetto ("Cabbage Palm")Quercus virginiana1931Georgia(a) Live OakQuercus virginiana1937HawaiiKukuiAleurites moluccana1959Idaho(a) Western White PinePinus monticola2/13/35Illinois(a) Oak ("Native Oak")Quercus spp.1937Indiana(a) Yellow Poplar ("Tulip Tree")Liriodendron tulipifera1931Iowa(c) Black WalnutJuglans nigra Kansas(a) CottonwoodPopulus spp.1937Kentucky(b) Yellow Popular ("Tulip Tree")Liriodendron tulipifera Louisiana(a) Southern Magnolia ("Evergreen") EnglemannMagnolia grandiflora2/8/38Maine(b) Eastern White Pine ("Pine")Pinus strobus Maryland(a) White OakQuercus alba6/1/41Massachusetts (a) American ElmUlmus americanaMarch, 1941 Michigan(b) AppleMalus pumila Minnesota(b) Eastern White PinePinus Strobes Mississippi (a) Southern Magnolia ("Evergreen")Magnolia grandiflora2/3/38Missouri (a) Engelmann Hawthorn ("Red Haw")Crataegus engelmanni1931Montana (b) Ponderosa PinePinus Ponderosa Nebraska (c) Eastern Cottonwood Populas deltoides Nevada(c) Single Leaf Pinyon PinePinus monophylla New Hampshire(c) White BirchBetula lutea New Jersey(c) Atlantic White CedarChamaecyparis thyoides New Mexico(c) Pinyon PinePinua edulis New York (b) Sugar MapleAcer saccaharophorum North Carolina(b) Yellow Poplar ("Tulip Tree")Piriodendron tulipifera North Dakota(b) Green AshFraxinum pennsylvanica var. lanceolata Ohio(b) Ohio Buckeye ("Buckeye")Aesculus glabraOklahoma(a) Eastern Rebud ("Rebud Tree")Cercis canadensis3/30/37Oregon(a) Douglas FirPseudotsuga taxifolia 3/7/39Pennsylvania (a) Eastern Hemlock ("Hemlock")Tsuga canadensis1931Rhode Island(a) MapleAcer spp.April, 1984South Carolina(a) Cabbage Palmetto ("Palmeto")Sabal palmetto1939South Dakota(b) CottonwoodPopulus spp. Tennessee(b) Eastern Red CedarJuniperus virginianaTexas(a) Pecan ("Pecan Tree")Carya illinoensis (syn. Hicoria pecan)1919 & 3/25/27Utah(a) Colorado Blue SprucePicea pungens var. glauca2/20/33Vermont(b) Sugar MapleAcer saccharophorum Virginia(a) Flowering DogwoodCornus florida1918Washington(a) Western HemlockTsuga heterophylla1947West Virginia(a) White OakQuercus alba1935Wisconsin (b) Sugar MapleAcer saccharophorum Wyoming(c) Lodgepole PinePinus contortata var. latifolia BibliographyShelley E. Schoonover (American Woods) 1951 (Watling & Co. ) Santa Monica, CA 

I have a Hitachi miter saw (one of my first tools!) and need to get better control over the dust generated.    I've just been using the bag on the port (actually fills) and vacuum up the spray of dust. With my incoming minisplit I want/need to do better.    First I looked at hooking up the vacuum to the dust port. If course nothing in my box of fittings is a match. Will need to see what I can find.   In the mean time, I started on building a box to contain the saw. I'll have removable front panels so I can vacuum inside. Have watched a bunch of YouTube and am trying to merge all of those into a workable solution.   Open to any suggestions or recommendations as I move forward. Thanks!