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The hardest thing to do with a scroll saw is sawing straight lines. This brings out the best in me I guess . I drew out a square which I will make in to a frame for these red birds I am starting to carve. And to make it even harder on my eyes the first top and bottom lines were not where they should have been drawn so I redrew the top and bottom lines in the right places. And this presents an even larger task for I had two lines very close to each other and if a person don't keep their mind on where the blade is it would end up looking like the profile of a hand saw blade. And why didn't I erase all the lines to make it look that much better? And if a person lets his mind wander about that football loss that line being sawn line will wander all over the place... The blade is a #5 size flying dutchman Is this the reason why most of those scroll saws sits over in the corner collecting dust?-
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Smallpatch.thumb.jpg.573d1497d0675219908c85aabefd797a.jpg)
Featured by John Morris -
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Curved Drawer Fronts Can Be a Real Pain
I'm working on the drawer pulls for my curved front doors, like I said elsewhere: never again! It turns out you can find drawer pulls for curved surfaces. Even worse, searching for drawer pulls on line is an awful experience....it was much easier when you had the Woodworker's Hardware catalog in hand and could quickly go through the listing to see what was available. Of course, the box stores are hopeless for such things with the limited selection they have. My choice was to use the old pull off the original piece. I'm absolutely these are replacements someone put on it, but they aren't that bad. But they don't fit curved surfaces. On the original they were placed off center on a somewhat flatter part of the drawer front, and they put 2 pulls on each of the smaller drawers, and 2 on the large one; looked a little strange to me. I want one pull on the small drawers and 2 on the large one, centered on the high point of the curve. I was able to bend the pulls slightly to fit the curve reasonable well, now I have to drill holes. To do that I made a drill guide jig. I sanded a curve in a small piece of cherry to match the drawer curves, and drew lots of center lines...on the jig and the. drawer. I drilled the jig on the DP to make sure the holes were in line with what I needed, clamped it to the drawer and drilled the holes. These were 1/4" holes, then I discovered my Asian import pulls needed a slightly larger hole. I was able to enlarge it to fit by hand. The drill bit in the jig shows the angle I needed.-
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- 2 replies
Fred W. Hargis Jr
Featured by John Morris -
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Drill press table
My dog bought me a drill press a while back (she's the best 😉) and I want to build an add-on table to make it more useful with woodworking. Initially I have just clamped some scrap plywood across but that wasn't ideal.I've been watching YouTube for ideas. I like the ones with t-track for clamping and to attach a rear fence. Also want to have a replaceable sacrificial insert so I can replace only that part when it gets too cut up. I have glued up a couple pieces of 1/2 plywood left over from my miter saw station to use for the table base (oversized and not squared up yet).The current factory table doesn't have any holes to attach from below as done in the YouTube videos I have viewed so I'm trying to figure out the best way to attach the plywood table. Here's the factory table.Thinking maybe some sort of clamp or fastner that would hold the top without protruding above? Tracksaw clamp like this might work if I can figure out the groove in the plywood table. Any suggestions or other ideas are appreciated.Also would be interested in seeing what others have done to increase woodworking options for your drill press.-
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- 85 replies
BB1
Featured by John Morris -
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Tool Tiers
I got to thinking about my tools and how often they are used: (how about you?)Tier 1 : used all the timetable saw, usually with a crosscut sled, and if not, with a rip fenceplanerTier 2 : used oftenrouterdrilljointerrandom orbit sanderoscillating drum/belt sanderbandsawhand planeschiselsclampsTier 3 : used when neededrouter tabledisk/belt table top sanderbiscuit joinerscrew driverwrenchessharpenersTier 4 : used infrequentlydrill pressmortiserjig sawpocket hole jigBeadlock tenonerbelt sander (Shopsmith)horizontal boring mode (Shopsmith)Tier 5 : can't remember last time I usedoscillating multi toolangle grinderangle buffer (customer that sold high gloss stuff closed)lathe-
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- 13 replies
kmealy
Featured by John Morris -
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