PostalTom
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The blocks are in a drawer, but not secured. I have one drawer for 1/2" shank bits, and another drawer for 1/4" shank bits. I'll shoot some pics if you are interested.
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My first router table was an over-engineered bench top affair. (Ever hear the saying that an elephant is a mouse built to government specifications? Well, I'm that guy.) I didn't have a sophisticated system to store my bits, so I used empty prescription bottles. No way the plastic would damage the edge of the bit, the bit was protected from damage by contacting anything else in the box or drawer into which the bit was very carefully placed, , and the bottles were free. A piece of masking tape took care of labeling. Downside was that most of the bottles not transparent, so a lot of picking up and reading the label was involved. Worked good until I built my current router table, and started using blocks to hold each bit.
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Took you long enough to "C" it! BTW, I was using the snipping tool, per your suggestion, that's why it was just a portion of the page.
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Is this anything like Scroll Sawing?
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The standard pen mandrel uses a knurled nut to tighten up the bushings to the blanks to enable the turning with a dimple in the end of the mandrel shaft, which receives the point on the live center of your tailstock. I've heard if you try to tighten up too much with the tailstock, it can deflect or warp the mandrel shaft. Look into a mandrel saver. It allows the end of the mandrel to pass through the center hole of your tailstock, and it tightens up directly on the bushings. I made that set, just for fun. Be aware that his design seemed to me to be sized for 1/2" square blanks. I didn't realize that until I tried to put in a 3/4" blank, and I couldn't get it in until I enlarged the cut-outs to fit the blank. Although, that may have been a limitation of my chuck, I use a super nova 2. Just FYI. I had a problem with tubes coming out when I was squaring up the blanks to the tubes. Read my post about this on this forum. I got some good advice and it might save you some problems.
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Yes, I am roughing up the outside of the tubes. I mentioned that in my original post. My concern there was that I was thinking maybe I was sanding too much and reducing the outside diameter of the tubes. I don't think now that that was the problem. I think Dan may have hit on the solution with his advice to put epoxy in the holes in the blanks, as well as on the outside of the tubes. When I can get some more tubes and try that, I will post with the results. Thanks everyone.
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No problem Lew, it's there in 8.1 also. I will have to play around with it. Sounds like a handy tool. The Ctrl V worked too. Thanks a lot Lew, Stick, and everyone else. Learned a lot today.
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@HandyDan, somewhere I had gotten the idea that the inside of the tubes had to be squeaky clean. I'm still pretty new to pen turning, so I was just over thinking everything. Thanks for your input, I'm sure it will help me out a lot.
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Looking good now. Thanks John. BTW, when I went on your Microsoft link to download the snipping tool, I got a message from my virus program that it was a dangerous website and to exit. What worked for a screen shot was the windows key in conjunction with the Print Screen key. By the time I got there, you had already seen the problem.
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I have been reluctant to coat the walls of the wood for fear of scooping up the epoxy with the tube when I push it in. How do you prevent that, or do you use something to clean it out before it cures? I let it sit for about 3 hours, thinking that would be sufficient with 5 minute epoxy. I'll try overnight next time.
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I don't think so. It's only about 2 months old, and I have been using it for other purposes with success.
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I've been making pens lately, and up to now, no real problems. The last three blanks I tried to square up the blank ends with the brass tubes, the tubes come back out of the blanks. I'm using a barrel trimming kit from PSI. The first blank this happened to me on, I glued the tube in with medium CA super glue. The next two, I used 5 minute epoxy. Both times, I let the items set for several hours before trying to square things up. I have a couple of theories. 1. I am trying to use stabilized maple burl blanks from PSI. Is it possible that the hardened maple blanks are drilling too smooth to grab the glue or epoxy? The pens I have made up to now have been with regular hardwood blanks, not stabilized or anything like that, and I haven't had these problems. 2. As per instructions, I am roughing up the outside of the brass tubes with some sandpaper. Maybe I am too aggressive with the sandpaper and taking too much off the tubes. Any thoughts?
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Using 8.1, and IE11. When I click on a topic, the content starts in the middle of the screen, as if the left margin is over to half way across the screen. The index for a particular forum displays normally, this is just the posts within a topic. If you want a screen shot, you will have to tell me how to do that. I've never tried that before. This started yesterday for me. Google works fine, this is just IE11.
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Maybe it was written in Mary Hartman. (Remember that show?)
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Purchasing Old Woodworking MacHinery
PostalTom replied to John Morris's topic in Old Woodworking Machinery
John, you mentioned that California still has woodworking in the schools. Maybe you could reach out to the people who acquire/dispose of woodworking machinery within the CA school system and get on their auction list.
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