PostalTom
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The only thing that holds the whole assembly in place is the c-clip that goes on the end of the crank up by the upper handle or pad. Everything thing slides on to the shaft except the clip and wooden part, the clip is installed on the end of the shaft, the wooden pad screws on to the large metal disc by means of threads in the wood mating up with the threads on the protrusion from the disc, and three screws secure the disc to the pad. Once all that is put together, I have that gap. According to my research, Miller Falls transferred or sold out to a Chinese, company, (what a surprise!!), so my chances of getting any information or parts from them are pretty nil. I think everything will probably work, I just don't like all that slop in the mechanism. BTW, thanks for the response Peter. Sorry it took me so long to reply, but I got busy with family issues.
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I got started restoring the brace. After a little wire brushing, the ID popped up. It is a Miller Falls 732. Looking at the pad on the head, I now have a question. I have a pretty big gap between the head and the rest of the components at the top. This pic shows the gap with a small screwdriver in the gap to highlight it. This is a picture of the head disassembled. Am I missing something, a bearing or bushing of some sort? Or should I just pack some washers in there to take up the gap. I can't seem to find any kind of a parts breakdown that would help me order a missing part, if that is my problem. Sorry about that picture. Somehow, part of the left side got clipped off, but you can still see the tip of the crank. That has the slot for the C-clip just to the left of the wooden pad. Any suggestions?
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Don't forget the PM-V11 blades from Lee Valley. I think that if a stone can handle the A2 steel, it will do just fine with the PM-V11, but it might bear some research, just in case.
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The product information may say that the tack cloths won't dry out or harden, but I'm not sure I would trust that. If the packaging on your tack cloths are like on the ones I get from Lowe's, you will probably destroy the packing getting the cloths out of it. I get a zip lock plastic bag, and when I'm done using the cloth on that project, I fold up the cloth neatly and put in in the plastic bag, zip the closure mostly closed, and fold up the bag in such a way as to force out most of the air before closing the bag all the way. I'm cheap, and I try to get as much use out of a product as I can before throwing it away. My understanding is that the stickiness on the cloths comes from the varnish that is used in the manufacture of the cloths, and since I am usually using varnish for my finish, I don't worry about residue. I haven't done this, but I have read that you can make your own tack cloths using cheesecloth and varnish or whatever your finish is going to be. I would research that though, just to make sure I am not steering you in the wrong direction.
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I finished my restore of the saw. Sort of. It doesn't look bad. Part of the project was sharpening the saw, using the method shown by Paul Sellers and his "progressive rake" system. It cuts, but I'm not really happy with the results. Should I repeat the sharpening, maybe even twice, or is there a different method I should try? I used the remainder of my tax refund to buy a 2006 Chevy Silverado. So far, it seems to be a good truck. I still haven't taken my lathe head stock to the shop. Other things need the money. I'll get there eventually.
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If you think the screwdriver is expensive, think how much a box of screws on which to use that screwdriver must cost?
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- resin
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Yeah, it was expensive. In my bank account's defense, I had a $100 gift card from Christmas, so it covered most of my purchase. The card came from my wife, which means that I still paid the whole amount, but it didn't feel like it. If I get another Auriou rasp, it will probably be a finer grain, and then no more.
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Well, I tried the white vinegar. What a disaster! It turned the saw blade black, along with my fingers when I picked it up. I managed to get my hands back to a semblance of normal flesh, but I think the blade is black with no recovery. I think I know what happened. I cut three small pieces of dowel from a 3/8" poplar dowel rod to elevate the blade within the vinegar, and apparently it also soaked something out of the wood to react with the metal on the blade. Oh well, live and learn. I'll try going back to some steel wool and WD40 to see if I can remove that black patina and shine up the blade a bit.
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So, I'm guessing the "Frog" and "Toad" are the parts your granddaughters are playing? Anyway, do you know what happens when a frog double parks? Wait for it... It gets toad (towed). Sorry, I couldn't resist.
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Got a new tool. A cabinet rasp, brand name Auriou. Ten inches long, with #9 grain, which is their way of grading the grit. I ordered it from Highland Woodworking back in Jan right after the new year, and it just came yesterday. i got intrigued by the video of how they are hand made, or hand stitched, in France. At $134.00, I hope I get enough use out of it to justify the price.
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Thanks Steven. I appreciate the info.
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Thanks @steven newman. I realize the saw is not of any great value as an antique, but the information is interesting. How do you determine which medallion to focus on? Dave, not to hijack my own thread to a different topic, but my truck is the one I mentioned some time back. The original problem turned out to be a weak battery and corroded battery cables. Once that was fixed, the shop determined I need $3500.00 to repair the front end, and I had three cylinders with cracks in them. The tech said I needed a new motor. I said no, I needed to jack up the radiator cap and pull a new truck under it. I am junking the truck, and looking at used truck tomorrow. As for the lathe, long story short, I can turn the hand wheel just fine when the speed is set to its highest setting, but as I approach the slowest speed, the hand wheel becomes increasingly hard to turn. There is a business that performs service on Jet lathes about 50 miles north west of here, I will probably take the head stock there either on the 20th when I get my SSA check, or the first when I get the bulk of my retirement money. Thanks for the good wishes.
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Thanks @Woodbutcherbynight, Grandpa Dave also recommended that, so I will be giving it a try. Appreciate the response.
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Dave, the labeling is painted or inked on. I actually have most of the plate looking pretty good. I have been using a combination of white and black pads, along with WD40 penetrating spray, not the regular WD40. Also using 400 and 600 grit sandpaper. My main concern is around the printing. I've seen the Evap-O-Rust at our Harbor Freight store, (another good product from a fine company ). I bought a B&D 7730 radial arm saw from a guy at work several years ago, for $75.00, with the intention of refurbing it and putting it to use, but for several reasons, never got around to it. Buying some Evao-O-Rust for that project was on my list, so maybe it's time to get some. Trying it out on the saw would be a good test of that product. Thanks Dave, I appreciate the info. With my truck and lathe both broke down, I can't do much of anything else, so this gives me a new direction to go.
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Thanks Gene. I hadn't even thought of that. I am not familiar with how to do electrolysis. I suppose I could Google it. Would the electrolysis take off JUST the corrosion, or would it strip the printing also?
