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Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble


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About Wichman3

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    Southeast Idaho
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  1. I chased a guy down one of the main streets in town with an axe; he got into his house before I got to him. he moved two days later... and no one messed with the house for the ten years I lived there. He started to take a partial can of brake fluid out of my carport...
  2. Not sure what's going on here, thought I responded to your post this morning, but now, gone. So here goes nothing: The piece will be screwed into the exterior wall above my front door, which is inside a porch with a 6 ft overhang. While exposed to temperature and humidity swings, there will be minimal UV and direct moisture contact. Screwing it in place is a must because of the neighborhood, two years ago a neighborhood friend had a concrete angel and metal chair stolen from her yard in broad daylight; if it ain't nailed down it could develop legs...
  3. Smallpatch, I don't cut the outside first on these pieces because there are small fragile detail areas that are prone to breaking. On other projects I cut the outside first to have a better grip, it just depends on the project. I only cut the outside once, after the pieces were glued together. The reasoning behind rolling on the glue is: 1. I wanted a truly waterproof glue. 2. I wanted a good even coat of glue without trying to use small applicator tips on all that fretwork. This is a test of several things, glue being one of them. I've never been a fan of nailing the pieces together, just personal preference. here is a close up of one of those detail areas (quarter for size reference).
  4. Finally finished cutting. Used a low nap roller to apply gorilla glue after cutting the inside cuts, let the piece cure for 24 hrs, then cut the outside. Less than perfect glue up, but good enough to test the finish in the weather.
  5. Ah crap. As usual I'm not being clear. I am now fully retired, from the military. I retired in 2004 and was transferred to the retired reserve, where until age 60 I could be called back up, extremely unlikely but possible. I turned 60 last month and just got my letter last thursday; yes, you are now retired; yes, you are authorized retirement pay; yes you are eligible for tricare. I currently use the VA for my healthcare needs. Not perfect by any stretch of the imagination, but pretty good and cheap. I'm not sure if I "have" to sign up for tricare or medicare. I am still trying to recover from complications from surgery in April (developed an abscess in the surgical site, when septic, ER, three days in the hospital, two weeks off work, home health care for two weeks, wound care clinic for two months... all paid for by the VA.) My only real issue with the VA is the hospital is a 3 hr drive, each way. There is a local clinic, but the services there are very limited. Yeah, I qualify for community care, but as I told them; I do not have the time, energy, or patience to deal with medical prima donnas who either can't or won't answer their phones. Thank you for all your kind replies.
  6. I am finally fully retired. Got the letter today. Now to figure out all the stuff that goes with it :), i.e. tricare vs VA etc.
  7. As I understand it Jess's work is segmentation, i.e. all pieces cut from one large piece and then the pieces sanded or carved, then stained, dyed or painted as desired. Inartsia is cutting the individual pieces from separate small(er) sections of wood, which are selected for color and grain. very little to no staining for color is done (just to protect the wood)
  8. You're looking for a "Froe": https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Froe You need to talk to whomever you are buying the wood from to see if the material is appropriate for splitting.
  9. The man who invented this technique is Jim Stirling, His book is available on Amazon for $134 new; $54 used. Very cool.
  10. What is your current technique and drill bit material? What are the issues that lead you to the conclusion that you can do better? For long straight holes I; 1. use a jig; the above jig or one like it, clamped to the drill press table (table turned to vertical), cylinder clamped to the jig. 2. use the shortest, long drill bit you can find. Size the length of drill bit to the project, don't use an 18" long bit to drill an 8 " deep hole. 3. use the best alloy, I've found the cobalt drill bits are the stiffest, as an added benefit they had a high heat tolerance. 4. use the right speed; my chart says 3000 for softwood, 1500 for hardwood (twist drill bits) chart also states to reduce speed on end grain, so I would cut the speed about 10%. If you have to raise the drill press table to drill deeper holes (multiple times), clamp the bar that the table rides on (notched bar on the side of the column), this is to prevent the table from shifting side to side while lifting the table for another pass. One clamp low, another clamp just below the table mount.
  11. I want a backing piece the same outside pattern as the front (fretsawed) piece, so that I can mount it above my front door. Since I know that there are lowlifes living around here, I want to be able to screw the piece in place without the screws being glaring. I can't stack cut with my current saw (Delta 40-560 type 2, 2 speed) the lower blade bearing is too loose and I will break off small pieces on the bottom layer of a stack cut. I started with double sided carpet tape to attack patterns (what PIA) I currently use Duck brand clear self adhesive shelf liner applied first then the pattern to the shelf liner, this is working good so far. At my regular job we use a spray adhesive, a couple of years ago we got a bad case; it worked great as a temporary bond, we need a permanent bond, the boss (owner) let me take the 10 cans left home (that should last me awhile). Recently I bought one of the "spray handles" that snap onto spray cans to keep the adhesive off my grubby mitts; so far so good.
  12. My front door is a southern exposure with a porch overhead, so the welcome sign will be protected from Sun and direct weather. My thoughts are to laminate the fretwork to a lighter colored piece of wood underneath, I'm going to cut all the inside cuts first, then glue the two pieces together, then cut the outside. I'll be able to hide a couple of screws in the fretwork cutouts (to deter the local thieves).
  13. CA glue weakens considerably if it is allowed to freeze. Here is the piece I'm working on:
  14. This latest BS started last year at Lowes. Because of complicated issues I don't know my actual date of separation (retirement), because I don't know that date, Lowes third party verifier won't verify me, hence no discount. HD has given me the discount, but the rules of what is allowed keep changing. I take it someone with a military id was buying materials for multiple houses, new construction from the ground up, and expected the discount on everything. Lowes local stores have their hands tied by corporate, no Id will get you a discount, only the third party verifier.
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