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Wichman3

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About Wichman3

  • Rank
    Apprentice

Profile

  • First Name
    Wichita
  • My Location
    Southeast Idaho
  • Gender
    Male
  • My skill level is
    Beginner

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  1. Wichman3

    Best way to drill

    What is your current technique and drill bit material? What are the issues that lead you to the conclusion that you can do better? For long straight holes I; 1. use a jig; the above jig or one like it, clamped to the drill press table (table turned to vertical), cylinder clamped to the jig. 2. use the shortest, long drill bit you can find. Size the length of drill bit to the project, don't use an 18" long bit to drill an 8 " deep hole. 3. use the best alloy, I've found the cobalt drill bits are the stiffest, as an added benefit they had a high heat tolerance. 4. use the right speed; my chart says 3000 for softwood, 1500 for hardwood (twist drill bits) chart also states to reduce speed on end grain, so I would cut the speed about 10%. If you have to raise the drill press table to drill deeper holes (multiple times), clamp the bar that the table rides on (notched bar on the side of the column), this is to prevent the table from shifting side to side while lifting the table for another pass. One clamp low, another clamp just below the table mount.
  2. Wichman3

    attaching a back

    I want a backing piece the same outside pattern as the front (fretsawed) piece, so that I can mount it above my front door. Since I know that there are lowlifes living around here, I want to be able to screw the piece in place without the screws being glaring. I can't stack cut with my current saw (Delta 40-560 type 2, 2 speed) the lower blade bearing is too loose and I will break off small pieces on the bottom layer of a stack cut. I started with double sided carpet tape to attack patterns (what PIA) I currently use Duck brand clear self adhesive shelf liner applied first then the pattern to the shelf liner, this is working good so far. At my regular job we use a spray adhesive, a couple of years ago we got a bad case; it worked great as a temporary bond, we need a permanent bond, the boss (owner) let me take the 10 cans left home (that should last me awhile). Recently I bought one of the "spray handles" that snap onto spray cans to keep the adhesive off my grubby mitts; so far so good.
  3. Wichman3

    attaching a back

    My front door is a southern exposure with a porch overhead, so the welcome sign will be protected from Sun and direct weather. My thoughts are to laminate the fretwork to a lighter colored piece of wood underneath, I'm going to cut all the inside cuts first, then glue the two pieces together, then cut the outside. I'll be able to hide a couple of screws in the fretwork cutouts (to deter the local thieves).
  4. Wichman3

    attaching a back

    CA glue weakens considerably if it is allowed to freeze. Here is the piece I'm working on:
  5. Wichman3

    Big Box store change

    This latest BS started last year at Lowes. Because of complicated issues I don't know my actual date of separation (retirement), because I don't know that date, Lowes third party verifier won't verify me, hence no discount. HD has given me the discount, but the rules of what is allowed keep changing. I take it someone with a military id was buying materials for multiple houses, new construction from the ground up, and expected the discount on everything. Lowes local stores have their hands tied by corporate, no Id will get you a discount, only the third party verifier.
  6. Wichman3

    I keep finding pictures I thought were gone

    Very nice, Kudos
  7. Wichman3

    A happy occasion

    Very, very nice. Bravo.
  8. Wichman3

    Heart box

    Yeah, I've got several orders already, shipping cost is likely going to be a deterrent. This one presold to a coworker before he even saw a finished product.
  9. Wichman3

    Heart box

    The original pattern was for a much larger bandsaw box, but I don't have a bandsaw. So, I shrunk the pattern until it would fit the scrollsaw. I'm using the Flying Dutchman FD-Cor No 3 blade. Just had a thought, I'm going to put a small magnet under the pin and a short metal rod in the pin. This will help hold the pin in place.
  10. Wichman3

    Heart box

    Here's my latest project, a heart shaped box with a sliding dovetail in the lid with a heart shaped pin to hold the lid in place. 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 x 3/4. The hardest part is cutting a dovetail in 1 1/2 Boxelder (maple).
  11. Wichman3

    Through in the shop for now

    Very nice Patch.
  12. Wichman3

    Hi from Tulsa

    Welcome home. Jump right in
  13. Wichman3

    Harbor Freight Lands on the moon

    Great prices, but... no atmosphere .
  14. Wichman3

    waiting on scroll saw blades

    This is a small box I used to make. 1 1/2" thick purpleheart with a sliding dovetail on the top and a heart shaped pin to hold the top in place. I had to use very small blades (#1) and cut slowly.
  15. Wichman3

    waiting on scroll saw blades

    I have two suggestions: 1. slow your feed rate, give that small blade time to cut and turn. 2. practice on scrap (of the same material). short sections with a 1" straight line, cut to the center and then spin the blade in place (slowly) cut back out the same line you cut in on. When you are comfortable with the straight lines, work on some "S" curves. An additional practice is to tilt the table and cut the straight line again, this will result in a cone waste piece, practice until the cone is even. Additionally, I have trained myself to be able to cut either direction, I prefer clockwise (just feels better somehow), but in the fretwork I do I have to be able to cut counterclockwise at times.

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