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Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble


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About Wichman3

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    Southeast Idaho
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  1. As I understand it Jess's work is segmentation, i.e. all pieces cut from one large piece and then the pieces sanded or carved, then stained, dyed or painted as desired. Inartsia is cutting the individual pieces from separate small(er) sections of wood, which are selected for color and grain. very little to no staining for color is done (just to protect the wood)
  2. You're looking for a "Froe": https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Froe You need to talk to whomever you are buying the wood from to see if the material is appropriate for splitting.
  3. The man who invented this technique is Jim Stirling, His book is available on Amazon for $134 new; $54 used. Very cool.
  4. What is your current technique and drill bit material? What are the issues that lead you to the conclusion that you can do better? For long straight holes I; 1. use a jig; the above jig or one like it, clamped to the drill press table (table turned to vertical), cylinder clamped to the jig. 2. use the shortest, long drill bit you can find. Size the length of drill bit to the project, don't use an 18" long bit to drill an 8 " deep hole. 3. use the best alloy, I've found the cobalt drill bits are the stiffest, as an added benefit they had a high heat tolerance. 4. use the right speed; my chart says 3000 for softwood, 1500 for hardwood (twist drill bits) chart also states to reduce speed on end grain, so I would cut the speed about 10%. If you have to raise the drill press table to drill deeper holes (multiple times), clamp the bar that the table rides on (notched bar on the side of the column), this is to prevent the table from shifting side to side while lifting the table for another pass. One clamp low, another clamp just below the table mount.
  5. I want a backing piece the same outside pattern as the front (fretsawed) piece, so that I can mount it above my front door. Since I know that there are lowlifes living around here, I want to be able to screw the piece in place without the screws being glaring. I can't stack cut with my current saw (Delta 40-560 type 2, 2 speed) the lower blade bearing is too loose and I will break off small pieces on the bottom layer of a stack cut. I started with double sided carpet tape to attack patterns (what PIA) I currently use Duck brand clear self adhesive shelf liner applied first then the pattern to the shelf liner, this is working good so far. At my regular job we use a spray adhesive, a couple of years ago we got a bad case; it worked great as a temporary bond, we need a permanent bond, the boss (owner) let me take the 10 cans left home (that should last me awhile). Recently I bought one of the "spray handles" that snap onto spray cans to keep the adhesive off my grubby mitts; so far so good.
  6. My front door is a southern exposure with a porch overhead, so the welcome sign will be protected from Sun and direct weather. My thoughts are to laminate the fretwork to a lighter colored piece of wood underneath, I'm going to cut all the inside cuts first, then glue the two pieces together, then cut the outside. I'll be able to hide a couple of screws in the fretwork cutouts (to deter the local thieves).
  7. CA glue weakens considerably if it is allowed to freeze. Here is the piece I'm working on:
  8. This latest BS started last year at Lowes. Because of complicated issues I don't know my actual date of separation (retirement), because I don't know that date, Lowes third party verifier won't verify me, hence no discount. HD has given me the discount, but the rules of what is allowed keep changing. I take it someone with a military id was buying materials for multiple houses, new construction from the ground up, and expected the discount on everything. Lowes local stores have their hands tied by corporate, no Id will get you a discount, only the third party verifier.
  9. Very, very nice. Bravo.
  10. Wichman3

    Heart box

    Yeah, I've got several orders already, shipping cost is likely going to be a deterrent. This one presold to a coworker before he even saw a finished product.
  11. Wichman3

    Heart box

    The original pattern was for a much larger bandsaw box, but I don't have a bandsaw. So, I shrunk the pattern until it would fit the scrollsaw. I'm using the Flying Dutchman FD-Cor No 3 blade. Just had a thought, I'm going to put a small magnet under the pin and a short metal rod in the pin. This will help hold the pin in place.
  12. Wichman3

    Heart box

    Here's my latest project, a heart shaped box with a sliding dovetail in the lid with a heart shaped pin to hold the lid in place. 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 x 3/4. The hardest part is cutting a dovetail in 1 1/2 Boxelder (maple).
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