steven newman

Not enough lumber to start another project....might as well keep going with the rehab stuff.... 5 planes...some parts were cleaned up, and given a new coat of paint. Threaded items were cleaned off, and oiled up. Decided to work on the red plane Sole is now as flat as I am going to get it. Like the hanger hole This was the easy one...we also have the "Bad".. And the "Ugly"...to go along with the "Good" Yeah....Ok, iron was flattened on the back, honed to 25 degrees and 2,000 grit....then stropped. putthe plane back together Sold by Geo. Worthington Co. of Cleveland, OH. Apparently, this is a made by Stanley #220....Iron is stamped as a Worthington W2200. Pine test track, had to rotate because of grain direction.. Rub a bit of wax of the sole, set the depth and lateral...seems to work. which leaves.. These 3 for tomorrow. Label claims to be a Defiance, by Stanley. Then there is that other plane.. Ummm, yeah. 9-1/2 knock-off. This might take a while.. Stay tuned...

Crusader saw is done, for now....Plate is shined up I put a good coat of the polish down, then a high tech polisher... run this around a while, wipe things down with a rag,,,and then run the polisher around on the rag... Then some 1500 grit paper in the sander...set up a pine board, for a test drive of 10 full strokes (waxed the teeth helped) If'n ya buy a 26" saw, you are expected to use the entire 26".....7 ppi rip Results? I had the Millers Falls No. 214 saw set out, and cleaned up, just in case i needed it.. Anvil is set to a "8" on the dial....May set the teeth at a later date... Not too bad, for a buck....

As for the two molding planes...clean the metal....do NOT remove the screws holding that skate...you'll never get them back in... The wood parts...Murphy's Oil Soap to clean the wood up...then some Smelly BLO until the wood can hold anymore....then buff it out. Bevels on the cutters are at 25 degrees, usually...flatten the backs of the cutters.

OK..Got things ready to go... Big files to "joint" the saw teeth. File in the handle needed replaced, new file is by Craftsman Did not need the saw set ( too big) Used this stuff, to polish the saw plates a bit....so.. Jointed the last of the teeth...yep, they were this bad. New file in the handle...worked on the teeth for about 20 minutes... Not perfect, but the next time I do sharpen this saw, I can make all the teeth better... Test drive in some 1 x 6 Pine....going to be a Carpentry Saw...as soon as the operator learns to saw a straight line.... Can barely make out the etch...Atkins saws were very hard steel, and they didn't etch them very deep. Hung this up with the rest of the panels saws. Which leaves that 26" rip saw to finish up...maybe tomorrow? Not too bad, for a dollar?

So...what day do you all want to meet?

Long time ago...until I sold it....didn't really like using it.... It had issues with holding parts securely....guide collar froze up...gave up. Sold the jig. Saw one at menard's today.....$117.00.....ummmm, NOT. Yep...was a long time ago....building drawers for.. A Kitchen Island the Boss wanted made....drawer on each end... Seems she has painted this thing a light blue-ish gray....still in use, BTW

Don't know about all that...but...look at how many times I have been chewed out by Morris.....

Spokeshave looks to be a Millers Falls No.1..."Cigar Shave"......bear to sharpen, but great when it is...

Hmmm...do mine a bit differently.....no fancy jigs to build, nor fancy router bases to make... Did have to buy some goggles. I guess the vise could be called a jig... two lines, one for the dovetails themselves (base line?) the other sets where the base of the router is to stop....clamp the drawer front with the second line right at the top of the jaws.. I can either mark out the layout of the pins, or..just use the MK 1 eyeball, sighting down. Remove this from the vise, clamp to the bench top.. Hammer and chisel to clean up...use these pins to layout the tails... A few bandsaw cuts, cutting on the waste side of the lines ( more layout line you leave, the tighter the fit will be) After a glue up, and before things are planed smooth.... When there are a bunch to do....plus all the rest of the joints and grooves to make....less time building jigs = more time to build drawers... Of course, IF you feel you NEED all them fancy jigs.....

20 pounds of cans @ $0.42/pound = Lunch money for one.. Monday about says it all...Boss' errands have been run....almost time for a nap....wake me up when Tuesday shows up...

This year's schedule is posted on their site....starts Saturday morning...and runs to Monday evening...not sure about that Friday night....nothing listed.... IF you show up, be prepared to WALK..A....LOT.....maybe we can set up a meeting spot? Bring a camera, too....

While waiting on the SSI payday next week, so I can get a new saw file....spent yet another dollar bill, this morning... And cleaned up this afternoon. A No. 17 rip saw, 7 ppi, 26" long. Never had a medallion.. Handle needs a 4th coat of shellac. Steel bolts, were never plated. I can get 3 fingers into the grip..index finger has to go along the side of the handle. Still trying to read all of the etch.. Made in New Haven CONN USA.....there is a logo spot between the "No." and the "17" and between the Trade Mark. Trying to read those big block letters....sharpie, block of wood, and some 220 grit paper, hand sanding. Teeth could use a tad of sharpening...right now, it rip cuts fast, and straight.... Was a bit skimpy today....toolwise... Upon further review...Seems it MIGHT be a "CRUSADER" brand saw, sold by Belknap...at least that is what the letters seem to say.. Maybe get the admins to enlarge this photo?

At one time..I was a Gentleman, really.....but that was by an act of Congress.....

In the one photo of the jointers? The No. 8 is a smooth soled type 7. One of the #7s is a type 9 Stanley No. 7c , the other is an Ohio Tool Co. No. 0-7, smooth sole. The No. 6c is also Type 10 9 2 patent dates)....the No. 5-1/2 is a smooth soled Type 17.....and the No. 14 jack plane was made just after WW2....type 2.

Might remember back when... You would wire a resistor and a capacitor together....to make a "filter" You could take a suspect "tube" to the store, use the Tester they had, and if the tube was bad, buy a replacement... When some tubes had a "shield" over them...and others had an "anode" in the top of the glass envelope... When, for laughs, you'd "charge up" a capacitor with the leads bent just so....toss the bundle over to someone,,,and tell them to "Catch it!" Sitting in the car...waiting for the car's radio to warm up...then tune in CKLW-AM, and listen in to Wolfman Jack...or the King Biscuit Flour Hour......