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Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble


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About sreilly24590

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  • Birthday 04/22/1954


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  1. Here's to hoping all will be better now and a quick recovery. The hardest part is the waiting. Good luck to you both.
  2. I thought of that as well when he "slipped " the spline in the grove.
  3. I'm thinking more like a kickback where the hand gets broken.......
  4. Interesting and easy to do. What I find interesting is the fact that he didn't mention to be sure to use the same blade for the spline cuts and the splines themselves. I guess that should be taken for granted but.......I don't always think that clearly. But then the sled design looks nice and the cutouts for the fence to allow clamps works well I worry about using the hand as a hold down method. Should something go wrong the hand is mostly captive and that looks dangerous to me. Don't go calling me a wuss just yet as many haven't experienced just how quickly a mishap can happen on a fast moving tool. Thankfully I have a Sawstop that really helps with that but many don't so I think worth mentioning. I would think it far safer to reach over the top of the fence to hold the piece of wood than through the fence opening but that's me. Seems he has a series of interesting videos worth watching. Plans would be nice.....
  5. Thanks for the tip.....their on their way.
  6. I've been threatening myself to do something like that ever since I built the miter saw station. Those 16 - 28" deep drawers hold a mess of stuff and it seems I've moved that stuff around a few times and never remember just where so I do the hide and seek thing that really tests my patience. Did I mention my patience seems thin at times like my memory? I decided to go a more aesthetic route and try to find some large drawer label frames like those used on the old library reference files but no joy so far. That way when I move the stuff again I can move the label simply by lifting the printed card out of the frame. I like the idea but haven't been able to locate these drawer label frames just yet. But you're way ahead of me as is.
  7. Agree with you on that John and that's why I like the Powermatic 719T. It has the sliding table and able to do angled mortises along with the clamping ability.
  8. Sounds like either dull hollow mortise bit or defect in handle. I would think this was the exception versus the normal. I've seen plenty of videos showing it doing just that without issue but they also weren't putting their full weight on the handle either. I think if something like this were to happen I would likely be calling support before trying different bits. Just saying it's easy to miss something. Were these people experienced with this type of machine?
  9. Thanks John. My thoughts are that for larger projects the chisels would be the way to go as they would be seldom needed and no need to invest to cover for that. I have the better half as a bookkeeper and getting approval isn't approached lightly although she's easy to work with. So far from what I've seen online I really like the Powermatic 719T freestanding model. It allows upto a 1" hollow chisel bit and centers at 4" from fence so that will take me up to 8" width if I'm looking at this right. I also like the ability to securely hold the work versus the benchtop models and the extra HP doesn't hurt. Larry I've looked at those and again securing the work piece is a major concern. My old Clausan DP is 3/4 HP but lacks the geared raiser for the table which makes it a real pia to make the adjustments. I've also considered the attachment for my Shopsmith Mark 7 but prefer to keep it setup as a dedicated lathe if possible. The attachment for the Mark 7 is $183 but only goes up to 1/2" and again securing the wood is an issue as I see it. I might feel differently if I had seen one of these used in person but that hasn't been possible yet. At 65 I'm focused a good deal more on the safety aspect not that it's ever been a major concern but these days the grip isn't what it was 30 years ago and I seem to bleed a lot easier.......
  10. So are these benchtop models or larger free standing models? I understand the usage and using the tool is fairly straight forward from what I have seen. You're drilling out the central mass and the square chisel is cutting the hole square. You make multiple cuts to make the long mortise and I guess you can do multiple rows to make the mortise wider. Interestingly we didn't have one of these in our school shop, at least not that I remember but then that was 50 years ago so the remember part might play a larger role. I don't recall doing much with joints t all like mortise and dovetails. But for furniture I see a great advantage for this joint. Real question is getting a tool that will do the general job and whether that will be a benchtop or larger tool. The larger ones seem more appropriate for commercial use but again the restriction on width of wood comes into play as well. Considering the largest mortise I can imagine needing to make may be for something like a workbench and that might be in a 4x4 leg post or even a 4x6. Aside from that we're talking basically furniture for the home. However nevr having used one I may be missing some important features that make it easier/better to use. Of course I realize it's mostly objective depending on the user.
  11. So I'm thinking the near future may hold a new piece of machinery for the shop. I've looked into mortisers and am curious who is happy with theirs and what model they have. In my shop it would get a fair bit of work as I have plenty of furniture projects in the works but again it's a hobby shop and not a business. Most reviews I've read seem clear that most are not familiar with how they are used and have unrealistic expectations. The biggest complaint I hear is the cutters are poor quality and dull. From what I've read and I expect is in the manuals is that the cutters need sharpening first much like chisels.
  12. Good questions because the drawers are likely to be the weakest part of a cabinet build and most of us want them to last a long time. Another consideration is the depth of the drawer because the deeper the drawer the more room for the side to bow out and on a dado slot for the bottom that can be catastrophic. Don't ask me how I know on my 28" deep drawers.....
  13. Sweet looking unit. You're own plan or bought ones? Any dimension info? I need to build something similar but need to accommodate a turntable and a 65" TV. You're setting the bar high.
  14. Nothing in the spam folder.....just no email at all from this forum. Others seem to be working fine.
  15. Derek, Clearly you value detail and workmanship and it shows. Taking pride in one's endeavors clearly shows the enjoyment you get from your work. You had me at the introduction picture, simply amazing work. Thanks for sharing not only the pictures but the explanation of the design and use. Extremely useful posting.
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