PeteM

Yeah, well try it on a 1x48 strip, 12 locations, end clearances not the same as the interior intervals. The graphic methods are OK, but limited to fairly simple layouts. If it was easy, anyone could do it, including me. Hence, the calculated approach. Finding the center is easy. I can balance the piece on a finger and get pretty close! But all you talented people don't need crutches!

Maybe turning pens would "come back" if someone developed a digital pen?

I have a problem with interval. If I’m applying 12 somethings to a 48” board, I goof up the intervals every time. Part of the problem is figuring out the interval spacings, and part is physically laying out the intervals by progressively adding one increment to each tick mark. I am ALWAYS off at the end. So much for talent. I now use a variation of the “story stick” approach, but via calculation, and then a much simpler layout method. I use a spreadsheet to figure out the interval spacing (e.g. 4.13” between dots). I then figure out where the first location/mark will be, and then create a table of locations, each incrementing by the interval (4.13). The computer keeps the numbers in complete accuracy, in decimal form so I don’t have to calc 1/32’s etc. Once I have the table complete of the locations of each tick mark, I convert all the numbers to metric because using mm (and a metric tape) is very accurate and easy to mark. You can read a metric tape to 1/2 mm. I can then either just print the table of mm locations, or copy them from the screen. Although it’s made a bit of process out of what should be (for competent people!) a snap, it saves me time in the end by eliminating measurement errors. And I don’t snap pencils in half. Much.

I've installed a couple floating floors, hardwood (and 3"), and the instructions are very clear to underlay the flooring with plastic sheeting to trap moisture away. Would laminate flooring be something like plywood, more resistant to moisture effects? I usually coat the "offside" of any finished wood with a quick 1-layer seal coat. Doesn't hurt, might help. Gotta get the finish off the brush somewhere.

I yam cornfused. I thought that cupping (on a top, per photo) would be due to drying out, the departure of moisture causing the grain to shrink. It seems non-intuitive that adding moisture causes that face to shrink. Just googled it: the internet thinks moisture makes wood swell, not shrink. So that must be true because it's the Internet. Bonjour.

If it comes to storing cans, why not use the expertise in your neighborhood? As mentioned above, grocery stores have been doing this for years, and what do they like? In my case, I use those plastic shelving kits which have slotted shelf surfaces. Periodically, I just use a leaf blower to keep down the dust.

Does the store offer kiln dried? I've tried the wet stuff, and in addition to your criticisms, I found the wood twisted a lot. I think it's only really good for studs.

As implied by the story sticks, I'd cut the shelves maybe 1/2" too long, then do final trim after the cabs are done. For long shelves, you might put a shelf pin into the middle back (where it won't be seen).

Amazon, $8+5. I've had it for about a year, does the trick. https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B008RA1XGK/ref=sxr_rr_xsim_1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=9ddc66f6-9fc0-49ff-b2fa-06a39d9859e6&pd_rd_wg=Cnjmg&pf_rd_r=G8GBJ2W9FT4VRRTTQY30&pf_rd_s=desktop-rhs-carousels&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B008RA1XGK&pd_rd_w=gpyXz&pf_rd_i=tool+light&pd_rd_r=9777b35b-4584-4452-a039-52eda1a57b8f&ie=UTF8&qid=1537544003&sr=1

Noise control 101: you have to think in terms of pathways. The obvious path is from noise to wall to ear. In that path, you first make sure there are no holes in the wall. Second consideration is mass: you want to stop noise, put something heavy in the way (drywall, including double layers, offset, mud, taped). In some cases of high noise source (jet engine!), double stud wall: a stud with gyp on both sides will transmit noise by vibrating the stud, so you put in offset studs, one set for inner gyp (noise side), other set for outer gyp (ear side). Insulation in the cavity does nothing (not enough mass) (insulation goes somewhere else). Double stud walls are only 1/2" thicker than std walls; just make sure the studs don't touch! Again, as noise source is high, standard stud spacing allows the gyp to "drum", and the vibrations travel through the air in the wall (and any insulation), causing the ear side gyp to vibrate, and that allows sound to the ear; solution is shortening stud spacing (less "drum" surface). Second pathway is reflected noise. Most important wall for reflection is the one opposite the "ear" wall. On this wall, you put the insulation, or eggcrate, or any other irregular surface. These all reduce the reflectance of noise. Walls and ceilings on either side of the opposite wall reflection will also reflect noise, but only about half as much. If you have the time to try these, you can just keep adding precautions until the ear is happy. There are calculation methods to determine transmission, reflection, attenuation; it takes a little investigation to learn these, but they are quite accurate once you learn them. And, yes, there are computer programs that do the calculations. It really helps if you understand the principles first, of course. And a block wall, plastered and painted (plaster and paint close tiny holes), will stop jet engine noise (135 dbA).

HD guy said another big paint company (Pitts?) bought Minwax, and the parent company was a Lowes-er. You might try Infinity Stores (aka, Amazon). Or maybe now is the time to switch to powder dye? Lasts forever, make your own batch size? Lockwood has a good deal on first-time purchases.

Hbirds are fun. I maintain two feeders, and when they need recharge the hummer lets me know by hovering about 3' from me and staring accusingly. Wife/I spent a week (as Commissioner) at Scout camp up in the woods, and we put up 4 feeders around the cabin porch, where wife spent her days. We counted about 20--25 hummers circulating around for that week. She was just delighted. Our current resident is so territorial that we rarely get a second, but watching them chase each other is also fun. Thanks for posting the pics.

I think the most effective dust capture involves the "other 5 faces of the cube": the base is a sort of "gimme" because dust naturally falls due to gravity. It's the other faces that are a challenge. Every additional face--or partial face--that you barrier, the better the containment. The picture is my first personal attempt (and the 50th design I've every done!), and someday I'll tweak it again. Clear plastic on four sides maintains visibility/light. I'd like to have the cheeks and top extend a bit more over the tool (about 2"). I have a fan (out of pic) on the left that blows sideways across the face of the shroud, and that is not good because good capture needs only one air motion: toward the suction. But this design is about 85% efficient. Control of dust occurs at the tool. Trying to do room or area air treatment means you have to process 20--30 times more air, and you're breathing all that stuff as it waits in line to be sucked out.

I always squint my eyes at fast-talkers (still haven't used that veggie juicer). Testing shows that dowels/biscuits/pocket screws are roughly in the same strength range, depending on how you set up the test. Wood is such an inconsistent material that it's hard to say definitively the absolute strength of any joint, so "in a class" is probably about as close as you get. One thing that tests do not address: longevity and creep. What happens over time? I have a cheap dowel jig (HF), and I like the way it works on picture frames. A support stand ("learning tower") that the g-kids will use for years, I used pocket screws, and simply went 150% of reasonable. The den door that I want to sell the house with, design life 30 years (the buyers', not mine!), I used M&T. Drawers? No way I"m doing dovetails! So "anything but". I haven't seen any one method that met all needs. On the issue of tenons (and expense of Domino tenons): I just make my own out of Big Box 1/4" material, often oak. I don't obsess about it because joints actually tend to fail at the bottom of the mortis/hole where the discontinuity of the mortis wood (any sharp corner) will propagate failure.

I tried a (Delta) mortising attachment for my drill press. After cutting a several mortises, and thinking on how difficult the attachment was to install, I cut future mortises with a router (and eventually a Jessem mill). If you devote your drill press to nothing but the attachment, maybe it would work, if you do a LOT of mortises, and you set the drill press on a low bench, and you have another DP for drilling...maybe. If I ever convert over to doing a lot of mortises, I'll buy a dedicated mortiser. I liked the bit about the aura and angelic voices! :-) Been there.