PeteM
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Thanks Bob, nice insights. But, "the times they are a changing". I'm sure buggy whip artisans felt the same way, and many "dug in" to make even better whips (some of that survived in the S&M trade?), all to naught. I'm more likely now to search for inspiration on the internet rather than a zine (BTW, this site is as disrupting in the field of woodworking as any other new facet). The paper pubs that I most valued were / are the tips & tricks pages, but those are all on the Web, too. I can't see anything on a phone (and scrolling drives me nuts), but my 8" pad does pretty well. So, if you're in the publishing biz, nice knowing you, and sympathy. Say hello to the Dodo bird.
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Very nice, thanks. Might be worth checking also: DS tape comes in grades. I get "light" at Ace hardware, and it doesn't tear fibers, comes off pretty easy (fingernails help), and is quite thin.
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The material doesn't matter: uniformity of density matters, and flexibility matters. Bending is a function of strength, so it has to be thin enough to bend (stress overcoming tensile strength), but to get a consistent curve, the tensile strength has to be uniform along the length (pegboard is less uniform than solid forms; knotty pine is, uh, non-uniform!). Scrap pieces work well if thin enough and uniform, but a slight taper in thickness can give you oval-curve sections instead of circle sections, and sometimes that's decorative.
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The problem with plastics of all kinds is that they're a mix of various materials. "PVC" is PVC, plus a number of other things, and the "other things" can be varied for UV protection, oxygen attack, chemical exposure, etc., but the additions usually don't get much attention. What's worse, the added materials can be changed if "something better" comes along, and no one knows but the guy at the batch plant. Then you get worsest: the vendor of the added materials is in China....yeah, you have NO idea what's actually going in to the vat. When in doubt, just use glass. Yup, it is more fragile: wrap it in (clear) packing tape. It makes it much tougher to break, and you get better "shard control"; it's almost like safety glass.
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This is my Mk-II shroud app. Note the hole in the bench behind the MS: that's the 16x20 scoop, 4" DC connection, down (yeah, grav always wins). MS' are known for their difficulty in dust capture. Note I don't even try to use the on-tool DC port. I like the clear plastic because it allows a lot of light in. Capture is about 90% gross particulate. Fine particulate is about 99.9%. Note screen over back bench opening (blue edge tape frames the screen): yeah, without that I consistently drop things into the hole.
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I was given an old (Delta?) BS that had ceramic guides and a rather strange back bearing that was mounted 90 deg from the conventional (BS blade rode on the face of the wheel...very strange). I struggled with it for several years, avoided BS'ing at all, then bought a Rikon/Craftsman, and what a HUGE difference the "proper" rollers made. I suspect if you really know what you're doing (I don't), you can make the ceramics work, but (etc). Snodgrass' approach sure seems to work well. I remember seeing videos where the host advocated "lots and lots of tension" on the blade, but I never liked that idea. Tuning the blade tension with vibration seems to do the trick. FWIW.
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Well, if you have universal health care, and limited liability laws, maybe this works? 'Fwas me, I'd design an interlock so the table cannot lift to act as MS unless the blade is fully recessed below the table. That limits the danger of a digit on the (unseen) table top during MS use. Similarly, interlock so table has to be down/locked before you can raise the blade.
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I'd try simple first: remove the anchor, see if the top of the leg will come off. Glue the two pieces together, put some glue and toothpicks into the anchor hole, re-insert the anchor bolt. Most important: tell Dad to keep the kid off the table, or get the tyke a ladder. It probably broke cause the kid stood on it. (Mine do!) The wood broke at the weakest part. The new glue joint makes the former weakest part the strongest (as long as you do a good glue repair: strong rubber bands to clamp the pieces?). To break it again will require more stress than before. While the table is in repair, might remove the other legs, examine the upper post grain, see if other splits are there. One way to repair such splits: mix 50/50 yellow glue, inject into the crack with a syringe, then clamp. The dilute glue also acts as a wood hardener.
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I wonder: would a spline do just as well? Spline could work with plywood, too, whereas the router bit would make hash out of the plies? And in terms of production, you could cut the spline slot first on the TS, on a square end (easier to produce), then 45 that end, again on TS.
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I spent the most formative portion of my engineering career as a sales engineer, interfacing between factories and customers (engineers and contractors). The impression formed initially has been reinforced through the years: Factory sometimes knows; Factory often does not. Factory will make up the stupidest s*** you've ever heard once you get them in deep. Blessed be their pointy little heads. I listen, but I reserve judgement. The bumblebee, not knowing his aerodynamic limits, flies anyway. Let's remember that glue, properly applied, provides strength that is orders of magnitude more than we need. Except on end grain!! :-)
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I tried it. It works. Can't tell the difference in bonding after the glue dries, but I didn't test to destruction. The dissolved salt just "rides" with the water as it penetrates the wood, and then reforms crystals as the water evaporates. The penetration of the wood by the water, and the glue material that's carried by the water, is what creates a wood surface that can bond with the remaining (very thin) layer of glue between the (now-penetrated, and now-changed) wood surfaces. The amount of salt is really small compared to saturation levels (the max salt water can hold), and the amount of glue (the part remaining after evaporation of water) is much larger than the salt content. "Corrosion" is a complex process, and depends on the material. Salt increases corrosion on metals because it facilitates oxidation. I don't think the same mechanism applies to wood. If you heap salt on the surface, yeah, probably inhibits glue action, and also wicks up water before it can penetrate the wood. If you stay within FDA recommendations for daily use, I don't think it will matter. :-)
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Good alt. I was thinking drilling the chop itself, small holes, brass dowels. This would lessen the tendency of the wooden jaw face to tilt under pressure (and--heh--because I just used dbl sided tape to fix my wooden faces to the metal. Never discount laziness!).
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My vise has a dog in the chop*. If you use metal dogs on the vise, they could be as small as 1/4" pegs: drill (2) at each end of the chop, and then make a wooden cleat with matching 1/4" holes? Many variants come to mind. *yeah, I had to google "chop"
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(For those who don't know Gene's locale, they just got 24" of snow, which is a bazillion times more than normal) Gene: today, put skis on it! Mostly downhill from you to San Diego!
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Um, does being a thousand miles from the ocean also contribute to your reluctance?
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