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Danl

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About Danl

  • Rank
    Apprentice

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  • First Name
    Daniel
  • My Location
    USA, Missouri
  • Gender
    Male
  • My skill level is
    Beginner

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  1. Jess, I always enjoy seeing your creativity. Keep Sharing. Danl
  2. I found an article which gave a formula using number of plies and project radius to determine form radius. I wanted a 9” project radius, so I was to use a 7 7/8” form radius. When the lamination was pulled of the form after ~ 24 hr., I had zero spring back. I had 10 plies, each 0.095 thick. When I pulled of the clamps and caul, I noticed a crack in the outer ply. I believe this was created perhaps due to by a combination of the wood grain not being straight grain, the shifting of the plies during the clamp up, and I continued to apply additional pressure during the curing (I am not certain). I do know that as time goes by, the glue minutely moves and some of the clamps result in having less pressure. I had extra plies available so I glued another ply to the assembly. After I pulled the glue-up from the form and let it set for the weekend, I had a slight enclosed angle. Having a tighter radius was better than a larger radius. The final results were excellent (beginner’s luck). The pics reflect 76 deg. and zero degree, exactly what the form was built to. Unibond 1 is a PVA glue. Per the mfg description it does not have the same performance as a two part glue but is a good and safe adhesive. The specs say that you have 15 min assembly time. I would argue and say that the time is closure to 30 min. The clamping time is far less than for a two part glue, but I did not what to risk testing the outcome. I let my assembly set for ~24 hrs. Danl
  3. Having the tower on the wall was my son's request. The shelf was painted with Rust-Oleum black lacquer. Yes, he is a gamer and I'm an enabler. Danl
  4. I purchased the electronics from Amazon. Danl
  5. My son asked me to build him a computer desk. He gave me latitude for the design except for the length, depth, and height. I know that he would be adding a computer monitor bar and he wanted power and USB grommets installed in the top. Material: Top: 13/16 hard maple. Base: 1 x 2 cherry. Drawer: 5/8 hard maple Base construction: Front legs are cherry bent lamination with 14 degree cant. Drawer has box joint construction. Finish: Base has one coat BLO, one coat 1 ½ # shellac, one coat gel stain, and another coat 1 ½# shellac. Overall, everything has two coats pre-cat lacquer. I wanted the desk to be and to appear to be light weight. I know there will be a structural issue if someone sits on the desk top. I want the desk top to have a floating surface appearance, the base to have curves & angles; and the drawer to have a clean look. The inner form radius for the bent lamination was 7 7/8. The base joinery is M&T. Each joint was doweled with two ¼ dowels. Thanks for looking. Danl
  6. The rest of the story…… I wanted to build a 1 1/4” x 36 x 54 hard maple table top. I went to my hardwood distributer and purchased qty (3) 6/4 boards. Two boards were ~ 10’ long and one was 9”-1” long. Each were skipped planed. I knew that it would be close finishing the boards to 1 ¼” thickness. This distributer usually sells nice lumber, but he was looking to unload his 6/4 hard maple and I did not want to purchase 8/4 lumber. I do not have a jointer but I have been successful using a sled and a planner in the past. I have a friend who has an 8” jointer with a helical head and a 15” planer with a helical head and he invited me to his shop. Each board was approximately 9 ¼” wide. I sawed each board in half, hot glued a straight edge to one side and ripped each board to 7 15/16” wide and headed over to my friends shop. While in his shop it was obvious that it would be difficult to plane to 1 ¼ thicknesses and I did not want the snip I was receiving from his jointed. So, after I flattened one side on each board with his jointer, I took my lumber home. The original plan was to use qty (6) boards approx. 6” wide each. One of the boards cleaned up less than 1 1/8” thick, so I changed the plan to use qty (5) boards. Using five boards dictated that I had to plane each board more to allow for a wider finished board. While at home, my wife asked to have two ¾” cherry strips inserted each side of the middle board, long grain exposed. I was able to remove all of the snipe and cleaned-up all of the boards to 1 3/16” thickness. Close enough to 1 ¼” thickness. The original plan was to also drum sand the 36” wide table top after glue-up to remove any mismatch and any original tear-up. I have another friend who has an oscillating 22-44 drum sander. He has informed me that his drum sander works very well. I have another friend who has a friend who has a 37x2 double roll drum sander. Neither of us have used or seen it. I laid out the boards prior to glue up to confirm that I could get 54 inches (one of the boards is only 55” long but the other four are 60 inches long so I have enough length to allow for any snipe but they have some end checks). I glued bd #1 to bd #2 while also having bd #3 in the clamps. I glued bd #5 to bd #4 while having bd #3 in the clamps. I was very surprised of the results. The final mismatches can be removed with a card scrapper. I am hoping/expecting the same results when I glue bd #2 to bd #3 and glue bd #4 to bd #3. If this is the case, then I do not need to drum sand the mismatches. But, I have to address the initial tear out issue. Opt#1 – make the final glue-ups and sand with the 37x2 double roll sander. Final thickness 1 1/8”. Risk: I do not know the owner, I do not know if the sander is operational or how it may perform. Opt#2 – make the final glue-ups and sand with the oscillating 22-44 drum sander. Final thickness 1 1/8”. Risk: The table top is heavy and only ~60% of the weight will be supported by the sander. I’m concerned about the unsupported weight and if I will be left with a beveled surface. Opt#3 – make the final glue-ups and use a card scrapper across the glue lines. And then address the tear-out issue. Either fill with epoxy or locally sand and fair out the low spot. Final thickness 1 3/16”. Opt#4 – run the boards across a planner before final glue-up. Risk. Two of the boards are now wider than what my planer will accept so I will have to find someone who can plan the boards for me. I want NO SNIPE. Final thickness 1 1/8”. My head hurts doing all of this thinking. I have not made the final decision for the edge profile, but I believe any final thickness will be Ok. I’m leaning towards Opt#2. This option will clean-up all glue lines. I can use additional boards along the sides or trailing while sanding to help eliminate any beginning/ending snipe, and reduces the weight of the table top. I will have to address my concern about the possibility of getting a sanded bevel edge due to having ~40% of the weight not support (looking for TPW input). Your comments are very much appreciated. Thanks you for all of the epoxy information. Danl
  7. Thanks everyone for for your advice, I appreciate it. I cannot remember if my planer did the tear out or if I purchased the boards with the tear out. I am conscience of grain direction when I plane but this board was flat sawed and has grain going both directions. My original plan was to run the glue-up top across a drum sander but the glue-up is coming our very good ( for my skill level) and a drum sander is not necessary except for this one bad area. I've now had to set this project aside, so it will be awhile before i get back to repairing, planing, or sanding. Thanks again. Danl
  8. Will CA glue work to fill the larger areas? This is one board to a 36" wide table top. I do have enough meat to put it across a drum sander. I do do not own one and I'm concerned if I put it across a drum sander I might get snipe. Your thoughts? Danl
  9. How should I go about repairing the tear out to this hard maple top? The board has not been sanded yet. All measurements are approximates. Danl
  10. Thanks everyone for your input. It is appreciated. Danl
  11. I have a Porter-Cable biscuit joiner. I just have not used it much. What do you suggest I use for the spacing between the biscuits? Is one row using #20s what I should use? Danl
  12. I have 5 pcs of 1-3/16” hard maple laying on my TS and max. mismatch measures 0.025” in the center when I added clamps to the board ends. The longer boards are 60” long. Do I need to use biscuits between each board for glue up? The two ¾” cherry strips are already glued to the center board. Danl
  13. I confronted 50 carpenter bees with a tennis racket last year. They did not play nice with my cedar patio enclosure. Danl
  14. I received an other pic which shows the bottom side of the seat. Thanks for all of the advise. I will forward these and see how he wants to proceed. Danl
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