Featured Content
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Success!!, or just survival.
This, without a doubt is the most difficult piece of wood I've ever turned. I don't know if it was the most difficult piece when I put it on the lathe but I quickly made it the most difficult piece for sure. A few catches, lots of bark inclusions, cracks, catches, poor planning, etc. etc. all combined to just make this a difficult turn. Almost from the first cut my only goal was to just somehow, save this piece, don't blow it up. Don't ruin it.This is a maple burl and is going to be a wedding present. It's about 12" diameter and a full 6" deep, a big bowl and it kicked my butt from start to finish.-
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- 7 replies
Steve Krumanaker.thumb.jpg.573d1497d0675219908c85aabefd797a.jpg)
Featured by John Morris -
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Hand Stamp Spacing Guide
This is a Hand Stamp Spacing Guide that I made a few years back. I designed it to be used with Lee Valley's 2mm, 3mm and 5mm letter and number stamps. It allows you to punch mark wood or metal with clear, evenly spaced characters. Here's the setup: I've clamped it on top of a workpiece secured in my vise. Then you just slip in the Punch Stamp as shown... ... and give it a couple taps with a small to medium size hammer. To punch one letter or number after another, You can move the punch holder by lifting the locking knob to next hole and putting it down to lock. Put in your next letter or number punch and away you go! You can also move half spaces by moving the locking knob to the left hole as shown here. Here's one of my boxes where I've used my Hand Stamp Spacing Guide and punch stamps to identify the box. Thanks for looking! Cheers! MrRick-
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MrRick
Featured by John Morris -
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Child's step stool
I have a granddaughter having her 3rd birthday soon. My wife suggested that I build her a step stool for her family’s bathroom. I built a mock-up from 5/8” plywood and then used repurposed walnut and maple to craft the step stool. A friend of mine did the CNC work from my sketch-up design. The letters are setting 1/16” proud and the geometric elephant is setting at multiple levels. A coat of BLO and a few coats of rattle can lacquer were used for finish. Thanks for looking.Danl-
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- 18 replies
Danl
Featured by John Morris -
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No jigs available
The hardest thing to do with a scroll saw is sawing straight lines. This brings out the best in me I guess . I drew out a square which I will make in to a frame for these red birds I am starting to carve. And to make it even harder on my eyes the first top and bottom lines were not where they should have been drawn so I redrew the top and bottom lines in the right places. And this presents an even larger task for I had two lines very close to each other and if a person don't keep their mind on where the blade is it would end up looking like the profile of a hand saw blade. And why didn't I erase all the lines to make it look that much better? And if a person lets his mind wander about that football loss that line being sawn line will wander all over the place... The blade is a #5 size flying dutchman Is this the reason why most of those scroll saws sits over in the corner collecting dust?-
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- 5 replies
Smallpatch
Featured by John Morris -
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