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My dog bought me a drill press a while back (she's the best 😉) and I want to build an add-on table to make it more useful with woodworking. Initially I have just clamped some scrap plywood across but that wasn't ideal.I've been watching YouTube for ideas. I like the ones with t-track for clamping and to attach a rear fence. Also want to have a replaceable sacrificial insert so I can replace only that part when it gets too cut up. I have glued up a couple pieces of 1/2 plywood left over from my miter saw station to use for the table base (oversized and not squared up yet).The current factory table doesn't have any holes to attach from below as done in the YouTube videos I have viewed so I'm trying to figure out the best way to attach the plywood table. Here's the factory table.Thinking maybe some sort of clamp or fastner that would hold the top without protruding above? Tracksaw clamp like this might work if I can figure out the groove in the plywood table. Any suggestions or other ideas are appreciated.Also would be interested in seeing what others have done to increase woodworking options for your drill press.

I got to thinking about my tools and how often they are used: (how about you?)Tier 1 : used all the timetable saw, usually with a crosscut sled, and if not, with a rip fenceplanerTier 2 : used oftenrouterdrilljointerrandom orbit sanderoscillating drum/belt sanderbandsawhand planeschiselsclampsTier 3 : used when neededrouter tabledisk/belt table top sanderbiscuit joinerscrew driverwrenchessharpenersTier 4 : used infrequentlydrill pressmortiserjig sawpocket hole jigBeadlock tenonerbelt sander (Shopsmith)horizontal boring mode (Shopsmith)Tier 5 : can't remember last time I usedoscillating multi toolangle grinderangle buffer (customer that sold high gloss stuff closed)lathe

I had the honor of building a burial flag case for a Lt. Colonel and two tour Vietnam vet. The daughter saw my shop on Etsy and contracted me for the build. It ended up being a very personal labor of love because the wife is a dementia patient and was super pleased with it. The casings from his salute are behind glass.

So, as I stated in my introduction, I began turning while stationed in Alaska. Several of my neighbors were wood turners and after watching them, I was hooked. I spent countless nights in my freezing garage cranking out bowls. We even hooked up with a local knife company, and turned dozens of Ulu bowls. Alaskan Birch is one of my favorite wood species to turn. I also love White Spruce, but the sap gets everywhere when you turn it wet. It was so easy to get wood for turning up there, not so much here in Florida. 

IntroductionA hand plane is a tool for shaping wood using muscle power to force the cutting blade over the wood surface.Etymology"tool for smoothing surfaces," mid-14c., from Old French plane, earlier plaine (14c.) and directly from Late Latin plana, back-formation from planare "make level," from Latin planus "level, flat, smooth" (from PIE root *pele- ("flat; to spread").PronunciationEnglish:pronunciation_en_plane.mp3HistoryHand planes are ancient, originating thousands of years ago. Early planes were made from wood with a rectangular slot or mortise cut across the center of the body. The cutting blade or iron was held in place with a wooden wedge. The wedge was tapped into the mortise and adjusted with a small mallet, a piece of scrap wood or with the heel of the user's hand. Planes of this type have been found in excavations of old sites as well as drawings of woodworking from medieval Europe and Asia. The earliest known examples of the woodworking plane have been found in Pompeii although other Roman examples have been unearthed in Britain and Germany. The Roman planes resemble modern planes in essential function, most having iron wrapping a wooden core top, bottom, front and rear and an iron blade secured with a wedge. One example found in Cologne has a body made entirely of bronze without a wooden core. A Roman plane iron used for cutting moldings was found in Newstead, England. Histories prior to these examples are not clear although furniture pieces and other woodwork found in Egyptian tombs show surfaces carefully smoothed with some manner of cutting edge or scraping tool. There are suggestions that the earliest planes were simply wooden blocks fastened to the soles of adzes to effect greater control of the cutting action.In the mid-1860s, Leonard Bailey began producing a line of cast iron-bodied hand planes, the patents for which were later purchased by Stanley Rule & Level, now Stanley Works. The original Bailey designs were further evolved and added to by Justus Traut and others at Stanley Rule & Level. The Bailey and Bedrock designs became the basis for most modern metal hand plane designs manufactured today. The Bailey design is still manufactured by Stanley Works.In 1918 an air-powered handheld planing tool was developed to reduce shipbuilding labor during World War I. The air-driven cutter spun at 8000 to 15000 rpm and allowed one man to do the planing work of up to fifteen men who used manual tools.Modern hand planes are made from wood, ductile iron or bronze which produces a tool that is heavier and will not rust.How it's usedGenerally all planes are used to flatten, reduce the thickness of, and impart a smooth surface to a rough piece of lumber or timber. Planing is also used to produce horizontal, vertical, or inclined flat surfaces on work-pieces usually too large for shaping, where the integrity of the whole requires the same smooth surface. Special types of planes are designed to cut joints or decorative mouldings.Hand planes are generally the combination of a cutting edge, such as a sharpened metal plate, attached to a firm body, that when moved over a wood surface, take up relatively uniform shavings, by nature of the body riding on the 'high spots' in the wood, and also by providing a relatively constant angle to the cutting edge, render the planed surface very smooth. A cutter which extends below the bottom surface, or sole, of the plane slices off shavings of wood. A large, flat sole on a plane guides the cutter to remove only the highest parts of an imperfect surface, until, after several passes, the surface is flat and smooth. When used for flattening, bench planes with longer soles are preferred for boards with longer longitudinal dimensions. A longer sole registers against a greater portion of the board's face or edge surface which leads to a more consistently flat surface or straighter edge. Conversely, using a smaller plane allows for more localized low or high spots to remain.Though most planes are pushed across a piece of wood, holding it with one or both hands, Japanese planes are pulled toward the body, not pushed away.Hand Plane Parts Diagram by Woodcraft.comPlane typesJack plane - A jack plane is a general-purpose woodworking bench plane, used for dressing timber down to the correct size in preparation for truing and/or edge jointing. It is usually the first plane used on rough stock, but in exceptional cases can be preceded by the scrub plane.Fore plane - The fore plane is built exactly like a jack plane, but is 18 in. long and has a plane iron 2 in. wide.Jointer plane - The jointer is also like the jack plane, but is 22 to 24 in. long, and has a plane iron 2 3/8 in. or 2 5/8 in. wide. The latter two planes are used for leveling larger surfaces and for jointing the edges of boards to be glued.Smooth plane - The smooth plane is of the same construction as the above named planes, but it is shorter, being from 5 1/2 in. to 10 in. in length.Circular plane - The circular plane differs from the others in that it has a flexible bottom 10 in. long, which can be adjusted to either convex or concave curves. It is used on curved work, such as round table tops and aprons.Block plane - The block plane is a small plane from 4 to 8 in. long. It has only a single plane iron, which is placed at a very low angle with the beveled side up. The lever cap is generally curved so that it fits smoothly within the hollow of the hand. This plane is used for planing end wood and in places where an ordinary plane could not be used.Bullnose plane - The bullnose rabbet plane is about 4 in. long, and has the plane iron fastened to the extreme front of the body.Rabbet and Fillister plane - The rabbet and fillister plane is an iron plane used for planing grooves or rabbets on the edges of a board. It has both a depth and a width gauge, as well as a spur, which scores the wood in advance of the plane iron, thereby preventing splitting.Dado plane - A dado plane is similar to a rabbet plane, but is used for cutting across the grain.Match plane - A matching plane is used for matching boards; i.e., plowing a groove on the edge of one and a tongue on the edge of the other. It has two cutters, a plow and a tongue cutter.Router plane - The router plane is used for removing the wood between two sawed or chiseled edges such as dadoes or grooves. The plane iron is lowered after each cut. It is furnished with a 1/4 in., a 2 1/5 in., and a smoothing cutter.Universal plane - The universal plane is a very complicated piece of apparatus for planing moldings, dadoes, beads, flutes, etc. It is furnished with as many as 53 different cutters.Molding planes - Molding planes are wooden planes, having but one plane iron for one particular type of molding. Wooden planes of all types are still used a great deal, especially by European cabinetmakers and carpenters. The inexperienced worker finds them more difficult to adjust, but they have certain advantages over the iron planes. One of these is lighter weight, which is especially noticeable on jointer planes, and another is that shavings from resinous woods do not stick to their bottoms.Plane gauge - Plane gauges are made both for iron and wooden planes. They can be attached to the sides of smooth, jack, fore, or jointer planes, and enable the operator to plane bevels or chamfers of any angle on the edge of a board without the continuous use of a bevel or try-square.

I needed a box and had a piece of 4x2 from a previous project, so I ripped, teared, shredded, mangled, folded, spindled and mutilated it into this.And it actually fits what I needed it for.😲

How many bowls have I done, and still have the same problem getting the bottom smooth without waves in it?I smooth it with a bowl gouge and negative rake scraper. I sand with 80 grit. I scribble all over the bottom and sand again until all marks are gone.I wipe on some thinner to see how the gloss might show me where it is still wavy. I repeat until it all looks OK. I sand to a grit suitable to apply a finish.Then, I put on a finish, dull like danish oil or Odies, or a bit shinier like satin poly, and these waves show up as in the center of this small plate.I need wisdom here to finally get more skillful on this one topic.What is a sure fire way to get the bottom of a platter or bowl smooth clear to the bottom?

I brought home a chair from the furniture bank fix-up room yesterday to work on it at home. Here are some photos of the progressThe before photos from the DPO (Dreaded Prior Owner)Screws in an attempt to tighten up some joints. Screws will keep the joint from coming apart, but not fix the wobble from the loose joint. And a few missed their target. Three different head types. Nails in joints are even worse, less tight and hard to get out without damage.And glue drips never cleaned up.

Hi guys and gals!I am starting my third acoustic guitar build. I have a Youtube channel, and all the photos in my posts are screenshots from those videos. I post a video every Friday, so this thread will be updated as much as possible weekly, unless life gets in the way. It is bound to be long, as I build with hand tools and show step by step progress.To kick things off i thought i would share the video I produced introducing the woods for this build.Thanks for looking and commenting.

It is with tears in my eyes and a heavy heart that I must announce the passing of HandyDan. We met face to face about twelve years ago and became close friends from the start. He was kind, generous, and talented man that I had the opportunity to share coffee, cookies & conversation with and I will truly miss him. As per Dan's wishes he will be cremated with private services.

Delta Specialty Co. Double Duty Lathe Decal Image

I went and visited my sawmill guy today. I bought 56 feet 8” wide by 3” thick. I bought 22 feet 3” square. Bought it all for $130. I will get 65 bowl blanks 8” by 3”, and 21 spindle blanks 3” square by 11”. This is what I use for my Woodcraft classes.

You don't need a jointer to joint boards. If you already have one. Great. But there are several ways to joint board edges. You can joint with a table router. Actually this is not unlike a table jointer. Think of it as a jointer turned sideways. It works well but tuning in just the right offset is a wee bit finicky. You can joint on the tablesaw with a an adjustable sled. There are other ways as well.Here's one I like because once it's done there's no more required.You take your boards to be joined and create a consistent gap between them where the gap is less than the blade's kerf width. In this photo I placed a 3/32" thick piece of scrap between the edges to be jointed. My blade is1/8" thick. I then CA glue several "scrap holding pieces" across the board's tops to hold them. (You can see the gap spacer between the boards). NOTE: You only want a couple of CA dots. You'll be removing these after your cutting.Now remove the space from between the boards.Next... raise your blade height to come about halfway up on the CA glued "scrap holding pieces". Do not set your blade too high as you do not want to cut through the holding pieces. Next, move your fence so the blade is as dead on center as you can get it to the gap between the boards.Turn your saw on and run it thru. Turn saw off.Next knock off the CA glued screws holding pieces.Your joint should look amazing!Thanks for looking!Cheers!MrRick

This will be the last job I do before we move, a friend from church asked if I'd be interested in repairing her grandfathers dining table, it's a nice piece, I've always liked the mid century dining elegance. I am deciding how to repair this and what steps I'll take. I have the leg base off to the side, the top is beautiful, the table is mahogany, and the top is a substrate with Mahogany veneers and a boxwood banding on the edge separated by an inlay. I've proposed two methods for repair to the owner, one is to duplicate the turnings from scratch, but as you can see the dowel joint was a bad design, and left it prone to breakage as it did.Or, I can cut the damaged portions down to the good wood, and make up the height with an ornamental block of mahogany for both sets of legs so they are the same.This'll be fun!I dug in a little with AI, according to AI in the 50's through early 60's they used Urea-Formaldehyde or PVA (Tightbond), so the joints could be a bear to separate, and I'll have to do some separating on other parts of the table. Production was in high gear during this time for this North Carolina manufacturer, and they started using the modern glues. There is a small chance it's assembled with animal hide glue, so here is my question to the community.Does this sound correct for determining which glue is present?Perform the Alcohol or Vinegar TestBecause you cannot identify the exact batch choice visually, you need to apply a small amount of liquid to a hidden bit of squeeze-out on the joint to see what breaks it down:If it is Hide Glue: Dabbing a small amount of rubbing alcohol or warm water onto the joint will cause the adhesive to turn slightly tacky, gummy, or soft within a few minutes.If it is Urea-Formaldehyde or PVA: Alcohol will have zero effect. Instead, applying warmed white vinegar will slowly begin to break down the bond and turn it chalky or soft.

First I want to thank John Morris for providing the Patriot Woodworkers forums to everyone here. I've been here now for ten years and it has been a great experience for me. Great people giving great advice every time I asked for it. I originally began with the Handyman Club of America years ago, and later turned to the Wood magazine forums until they closed shop. This forum has been the greatest experience for me. Great people giving good advice and no one with an attitude to criticize what you do. Everyone here was new to me except one. GrampaDave has been with me from almost day one with the Handyman Club of America. I will be turning 95 on August. Failing health ended my woodworking when I turned 93, but I enjoyed every minute of it. After it ended for me these forums kept me abreast of what everyone else here doing. I enjoy watching everyone progress weather its building a piece of furniture or a Jig for the shop or building your homes. I ended my woodworking making a number of bandsaw boxes. I can honestly say that everyone who receive one of my bandsaw boxes was very happy with it. I still hear their praise regularly and they comment on how it being used . I even got a comment from a lady who told me she was dusting in her home and when win to lift the box it weighed a ton. Her husband was using it to store his bullets before she got a chance to use it. Lately my health has been hit or miss, so I just wanted to say thank you John and thank you all for making these forums a great place. Keep up the good work and happy wood working.

IntroductionYou are viewing the "State Trees" section from the book title "American Woods" by Shelley E. Schoonover. The table below is a representation of our states official and or adopted trees from the publish date of 1951.The state of Alaska was not represented in Mrs. Schoonover's orginal publication of her book, as statehood was approved by Congress on July 7, 1958. Alaska was officially proclaimed a state on January 3, 1959, after her book was published.Also Hawaii was not included in the states list, statehood was granted on August 21, 1959, 8 years after the publishing of American Woods.I have included the two remaining states to avoid any confusion on the readers part.Legend and Definitions"Spp." is the abbreviation for "species." It means that the author is referring to all species in that given genus. Often it is also used when the author doesn't know the specific species but knows that it is in a certain genus; i.e., there are many plants in the genus Salvia, and they can all be lumped together in Salvia spp.(a) Officially designated by legislative action.(b) Selected by popular vote of the people or unofficially recognized.(c) Prominent tree growing within the State.StateCommon NameBotanical NameYear AdoptedAlabama(c) Slash PinePinus cariaea AlaskaSitka spruce Picea sitchensis1962Arizona(c) Honey MesquiteProsopis fuliflora Arkansas(a) PinePinus spp.1939California(a) Coast Redwood ("California Redwood")Sequoia sempervirens4/3/37Colorado(a) Colorado Blue SprucePicea pungens var. glauca1939Connecticut(a) White OakQuercus alba1947Delaware(a) American Holly ("Holly")Ilex opaca1939District of Columbia(c) American Sycamore and Black CherryPlatanus occidentalis & Prunus serotina Florida(b) Cabbage Palmetto ("Cabbage Palm")Quercus virginiana1931Georgia(a) Live OakQuercus virginiana1937HawaiiKukuiAleurites moluccana1959Idaho(a) Western White PinePinus monticola2/13/35Illinois(a) Oak ("Native Oak")Quercus spp.1937Indiana(a) Yellow Poplar ("Tulip Tree")Liriodendron tulipifera1931Iowa(c) Black WalnutJuglans nigra Kansas(a) CottonwoodPopulus spp.1937Kentucky(b) Yellow Popular ("Tulip Tree")Liriodendron tulipifera Louisiana(a) Southern Magnolia ("Evergreen") EnglemannMagnolia grandiflora2/8/38Maine(b) Eastern White Pine ("Pine")Pinus strobus Maryland(a) White OakQuercus alba6/1/41Massachusetts (a) American ElmUlmus americanaMarch, 1941 Michigan(b) AppleMalus pumila Minnesota(b) Eastern White PinePinus Strobes Mississippi (a) Southern Magnolia ("Evergreen")Magnolia grandiflora2/3/38Missouri (a) Engelmann Hawthorn ("Red Haw")Crataegus engelmanni1931Montana (b) Ponderosa PinePinus Ponderosa Nebraska (c) Eastern Cottonwood Populas deltoides Nevada(c) Single Leaf Pinyon PinePinus monophylla New Hampshire(c) White BirchBetula lutea New Jersey(c) Atlantic White CedarChamaecyparis thyoides New Mexico(c) Pinyon PinePinua edulis New York (b) Sugar MapleAcer saccaharophorum North Carolina(b) Yellow Poplar ("Tulip Tree")Piriodendron tulipifera North Dakota(b) Green AshFraxinum pennsylvanica var. lanceolata Ohio(b) Ohio Buckeye ("Buckeye")Aesculus glabraOklahoma(a) Eastern Rebud ("Rebud Tree")Cercis canadensis3/30/37Oregon(a) Douglas FirPseudotsuga taxifolia 3/7/39Pennsylvania (a) Eastern Hemlock ("Hemlock")Tsuga canadensis1931Rhode Island(a) MapleAcer spp.April, 1984South Carolina(a) Cabbage Palmetto ("Palmeto")Sabal palmetto1939South Dakota(b) CottonwoodPopulus spp. Tennessee(b) Eastern Red CedarJuniperus virginianaTexas(a) Pecan ("Pecan Tree")Carya illinoensis (syn. Hicoria pecan)1919 & 3/25/27Utah(a) Colorado Blue SprucePicea pungens var. glauca2/20/33Vermont(b) Sugar MapleAcer saccharophorum Virginia(a) Flowering DogwoodCornus florida1918Washington(a) Western HemlockTsuga heterophylla1947West Virginia(a) White OakQuercus alba1935Wisconsin (b) Sugar MapleAcer saccharophorum Wyoming(c) Lodgepole PinePinus contortata var. latifolia BibliographyShelley E. Schoonover (American Woods) 1951 (Watling & Co. ) Santa Monica, CA 

I have a Hitachi miter saw (one of my first tools!) and need to get better control over the dust generated.    I've just been using the bag on the port (actually fills) and vacuum up the spray of dust. With my incoming minisplit I want/need to do better.    First I looked at hooking up the vacuum to the dust port. If course nothing in my box of fittings is a match. Will need to see what I can find.   In the mean time, I started on building a box to contain the saw. I'll have removable front panels so I can vacuum inside. Have watched a bunch of YouTube and am trying to merge all of those into a workable solution.   Open to any suggestions or recommendations as I move forward. Thanks!

The TreeWhite Spruce is one of the three spruces, red, white and black, all commonly called Eastern Spruce. Ordinarily the White Spruce is a shapely tree 40 to 90 feet tall and 12 to 24 inches in diameter, with many branches which droop downward from the trunk, then turn up to form a beautiful cone-shaped tree tapering to a long, sharp crown. The needles are four-angled, short, pointed and grow profusely around the twigs and curve upward around the branches. They are a dark blue-green and when bruised give off an offensive odor which has given the tree the name “Skunk” and “Cat Spruce.” The cones are from one to one and a half inches long and cylindrical, and when mature are a glossy, light-muddy-brown color. After the seeds are released most of the cones drop from the tree; a few cling on the branches until spring. The tree suffers greatly from forest fire, probably because of its resinous exudations or “bleeding” and its thin bark. Much damage also occurs from fungi and insect attacks, the most conspicuous being the European sawfiy and the spruce bud worm.White Spruce tree bark, thin and scaleyWhite Spruce female coneWhite Spruce male pollen coneCommon Names in UseWhite Spruce (Vt., N.H., Mass., N.Y., Wis., Mich., Minn., Ont., and trade)Bog Spruce (New Eng.)Blue Spruce (Me.)Adirondack Spruce (trade) Eng, Ontario)Canadian SpruceCat Spruce (Me., New Eng.)Double Spruce (Vt.)Eastern Spruce (trade-in part)Pine (Hudson Bay)Spruce (Vt.)Skunk Spruce (Wis., Me., New Eng., Ontario)Single Spruce (Me., Vt., Minn.)Growth RangeThe growth range of White Spruce extends from Newfoundland and Labrador to Alaska, south to British Columbia, western Montana, northern Minnesota, Wisconsin and Michigan, eastward throughout the northeastern States. A variety of White Spruce is also found in scattered stands in South Dakota, Wyoming, Montana and northern Washington. White Spruce thrives best on moist, well drained soils and along the banks of streams.White Spruce Range MapThe WoodThe wood of the White Spruce is very uniform in texture, pale yellowish-white, straight-grained, soft and light in weight. It is easy to work, free from pitch and takes a good finish. It nails easily and holds nails and screws very well. In seasoning it shrinks moderately.White Spruce, quarter-sawn and end grainUsesThe White Spruce is a very important source of paper pulp because of the long fine quality of the fibers. The wood is also used for interior finish, boxes and crates, furniture, sash, doors, frames, dairy and poultry supplies, cabinets, general construction and is especially prized for sounding boards for musical instruments, canoe paddles and light oars.BibliographyShelley E. Schoonover (American Woods) 1951 (Watling & Co. ) Santa Monica, CA File AttributionsThe TreeUrban Forest Ecosystems Institute. (2018). SelecTree: A tree selection guide: White spruce (Picea glauca). California Polytechnic State University. https://selectree.calpoly.edu/tree-detail/picea-glaucaWhite Spruce Tree BarkUrban Forest Ecosystems Institute. (2018). SelecTree: A tree selection guide: White spruce (Picea glauca). California Polytechnic State University. https://selectree.calpoly.edu/tree-detail/picea-glaucaWhite Spruce Female ConeUrban Forest Ecosystems Institute. (2018). SelecTree: A tree selection guide: White spruce (Picea glauca). California Polytechnic State University. https://selectree.calpoly.edu/tree-detail/picea-glaucaWhite Spruce Male Pollen ConeUrban Forest Ecosystems Institute. (2018). SelecTree: A tree selection guide: White spruce (Picea glauca). California Polytechnic State University. https://selectree.calpoly.edu/tree-detail/picea-glaucaWhite Spruce Range MapBy U.S. Geological Survey - Digital representation of "Atlas of United States Trees" by Elbert L. Little, Jr. [1], Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=12021156White Spruce Lumberhttp://www.hobbithouseinc.com/personal/woodpics/spruce,%20misc.html

The TreeThe Western Larch is a tall, straight tree towering from 150 to 200 feet high with a trunk diameter up to five feet. It is free of branches for 60 to 100 feet making it an increasingly valuable forest tree. The branches are short, horizontal and sparsely covered with foliage. The needles, growing in clusters along the small branches, are short, pointed, triangular, and flat on their upper surface. They are a satiny pale green color. The Larch species (including Eastern Tamarack) shed their foliage each fall. Growing close along the branches are the egg-shaped cones, which are about one and a half inches long and one inch wide with slender bracts extending from each cone seed scale. The dull reddish cinnamon-brown bark of Western Larch has a striking appearance. It is three to six inches thick on mature trees, deeply furrowed and separates into rather small rather bright irregular scales. The tree withstands fire damage better than most forest trees but is susceptible to attack by fungi of various kinds, and by the larch saw-fly.Western Larch Pine ConeWestern Larch Tree BarkCommon Names in UseWestern Larch (English and American trade; Mont.)British Columbia Tamarack (B.C. trade)HackmatackGreat Western Larch (Calif., lit.)Larch (Idaho, Wash., trade)Montana Larch (trade)Mountain Larch (trade)Oregon Larch (Pacific coast trade)Red American LarchTamarack (Oreg.)Western TamarackGrowth RangeThe growth range of Western Larch extends from western Montana through northern Idaho, Washington and Oregon and into southeastern British Columbia, in mountain valleys and on slopes at elevations from 2,000 to 7,000 feet, attaining its best development in northern Idaho and western Montana.Western Larch Range MapThe WoodThe heartwood of Western Larch is a reddish-tan or russet while the narrow sapwood is a yellowish-white to a pale straw-brown. The wood is moderately strong, stiff, medium heavy (it is the heaviest of all larch species and also the heaviest coniferous wood), fine straight-grained and coarse-textured. It splits easily, but is not slivery as is the Eastern Tamarack. Because the base trunk of the tree is subject to “shake” or disintegration along the growth rings, the largest log of the tree maybe left in the woods. The wood closely resembles the Douglas Fir but is far inferior and is not used for veneers. It is somewhat difficult to work with tools and does not hold paint well, but it is easily glued and easily stained and finished in natural color.Western Larch WoodUsesThis wood is used for dimension lumber of all kinds, some for interior finish, boat lumber, boxes, the cheaper grades of furniture, sash and doors, telephone and telegraph poles, railroad ties, posts, mine timbers. It is used to some extent for paper pulp in the manufacture of fiberboard and kraft wrapping paper. Some commercial use is made of the galactan gum extracted from the wood.BibliographyShelley E. Schoonover (American Woods) 1951 (Watling & Co. ) Santa Monica, CA File AttributionsThe TreeBy hojaleaf on Flickr - Flickr, CC BY 2.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=8007937Western Larch Pine ConeUrban Forest Ecosystems Institute. (2018). SelecTree: A tree selection guide: Western larch (Larix occidentalis). California Polytechnic State University. https://selectree.calpoly.edu/tree-detail/larix-occidentalisWestern Larch Tree BarkUrban Forest Ecosystems Institute. (2018). SelecTree: A tree selection guide: Western larch (Larix occidentalis). California Polytechnic State University. https://selectree.calpoly.edu/tree-detail/larix-occidentalisWestern Larch Range MapBy Elbert L. Little, Jr., of the U.S. Department of Agriculture, Forest Service - USGS Geosciences and Environmental Change Science Center: Digital Representations of Tree Species Range Maps from: Elbert L. Little, Jr. (1971), Atlas of United States trees, Vol. 1, conifers and important hardwoods: U.S. Department of Agriculture Miscellaneous Publication 1146, 9 p., 200 maps., Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=30494313Western Larch WoodUrban Forest Ecosystems Institute. (2018). SelecTree: A tree selection guide: Western larch (Larix occidentalis). California Polytechnic State University. https://selectree.calpoly.edu/tree-detail/larix-occidentalis

The TreeTamarack or Eastern Larch is one of the four softwoods species (Larches and Baldcypress) that shed their needles each fall. It is a straight slender tree 40 to 70 feet tall and 12 to 20 inches in diameter. It generally grows in swampy locations. The limbs begin almost at ground level, are almost horizontal, thin and curve upward slightly. The needles are feathery in appearance, a bright green in color, only about an inch long and grow in clusters along the small branches. These needles turn a yellowish or rust color in the autumn and fall off. The name “Ka-neh-tens,” meaning “the leaves fall” was given this tree by the Iroquois Indians. The small cones are a bright chestnut brown and form in clusters close to the small branchlets. At first the cone scales are opened slightly in the spring; after pollination they close into a compact ball until the seed ripens. The bark of the mature trees is a dark reddish brown, with shallow furrows and thin scales. The tree is especially susceptible to attack by the larch saw-fly.Eastern Larch Pine ConescdEastern Larch Tree BarkCommon Names in UseTamarack (Me., N.H., Vt., Mass., R.I., N.J., N,Y,. Pa,. Ind,. Ill., Wis., Mich., Minn., Ohio, Ontario)American Larch (Vt., Wis., nurserymen)Black Larch (Minn.)Epinette Rouge (Quebec)Hacmack (lit)Hackmatack (Me., N.H., Mass,. R.I., Del., Ill., Minn., Ontario )Juniper (Me., New Brunswick to Hudson Bay)Ka-neh-tens-- "The leaves fall" (Indians, N.Y.)Larch (Vt., Mass., R.I., Conn., N.Y., N.J., Pa., Del., Wis., Minn., Ohio, Ontario)Red Larch (Misch.)Growth RangeThe Tamarack ranges from Newfoundland and Labrador, west to Mackenzie and Alaska, south to Pennsylvania, Maryland, Illinois, Minnesota, and Alberta. It is strictly an eastern and northern species and should not be confused with Western Larch, sometimes called Western Tamarack.Eastern Larch Range MapThe WoodThe wood is coarse in texture, the heartwood being a yellowish to russet brown but without a pronounced reddish tinge. The sapwood is narrow and a creamy white color. It resembles hard pine and is moderately heavy, stiff, brittle, hard and strong, slivery, generally straight-grained but occasionally spiral-grained. Close fibers make Tamarack wood difficult to penetrate with preservatives. It works well with tools and has an oily or greasy feel in handling.UsesTamarack lumber is used for rough, general construction, railroad ties and ship timbers. Having a straight stem, Tamarack is used extensively for telegraph and telephone poles. It is now used also for paper pulp. The large roots and the lower portion of the stump are sometimes used to hew "ship knees” used in keels of wooden ships.BibliographyShelley E. Schoonover (American Woods) 1951 (Watling & Co. ) Santa Monica, CA File AttributionsThe TreeDziuk, P. M. (2012). Mature Tamarack trees in fall color [Photograph]. Minnesota Wildflowers. https://www.minnesotawildflowers.info/tree/tamarackEastern Larch Tree BarkDziuk, P. M. (2014). Tamarack tree bark [Photograph]. Minnesota Wildflowers. https://www.minnesotawildflowers.info/tree/tamarackEastern Larch Pine ConesDziuk, P. M. (2005). Tamarack tree cones [Photograph]. Minnesota Wildflowers. https://www.minnesotawildflowers.info/tree/tamarackEastern Larch Range MapBy Elbert L. Little, Jr., of the U.S. Department of Agriculture, Forest Service - USGS Geosciences and Environmental Change Science Center: Digital Representations of Tree Species Range Maps from: Elbert L. Little, Jr. (1971), Atlas of United States trees, Vol. 1, conifers and important hardwoods: U.S. Department of Agriculture Miscellaneous Publication 1146, 9 p., 200 maps., Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=30488913

ago today i got married to Linda, who passed away almost 4 years ago (August), if not for her, i'd never have pursued woodworking with the intensity i have. it was she who wanted/needed to have me build a new kitchen in our old home....well, i'm going to need some tools to do that. still have the tools, and have added more over time, and still enjoy spending time in my shop building things of beauty and utility, I just don't have her around to make things for. so i find others to make things for now (like the dining table and matching benches i recently completed).you need someone to love, something to do, and something to look forward to. if it's just about money, that's a lousy reason for making sawdust, there has to be a little love put into each project.i know, not really woodworking project related, but some reason behind the scenes.....

Publication date 1953 Usage Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivs 4.0 International This is from the site WKFineTools.com.

The TreeThe Slash Pine grows rapidly and is one of the most important and profitable of our southern yellow pines The name "slash" is given the tree because it grows most favorably in low hummocks of swamps called "slashes." It resembles the Ponderosa Pine in many respects although it is not as large a tree. The tree grows 80 to 150 feet in height with a fine high clear trunk 24 to 36 inches in diameter, breast high. The bark is relatively thin, broken into irregular scales, and a reddish-brown to orange color. The needles are 8 to 12 inches long, a dark lustrous green color, with two or three in a bundle forming clusters at the ends of the twigs. The needles of Slash Pine are longer than the Loblolly Pine but shorter than the Longleaf Pine. They remain on the tree for two seasons. The cones are egg shaped three to six inches long and are a glossy leathery brown color, very compact with short spines at the end of each scale of the cone, a peculiar characteristic of the Slash Pine. It is one of the best looking pines and is used to a large extent for ornamental planting and roadside beautification. Because this tree thrives best in moist areas it suffers lightly from forest fires but is susceptible to damage from red heart rot.Slash Pine ConesSlash Pine BarkCommon Names in UseSlash Pine (Ala., Miss.,Ga., Fla.)Bastard Pine (Fla., Miss., Ala., in part)Cuban PineMeadow Pine (Fla., eastern Miss. in part)Pitch Pine (Fla.)Saltwater Pine (Fla.)She Pitch Pine (Ga)She Pine (Ga., Fla.)Spruce Pine (southern Ala.)Southern Pine (trade)Swamp Pine (Fla., Miss., Ala. in part)Yellow Slash PineGrowth RangeThe growth range of Slash Pine extends from the southern part of South Carolina westward through southern Georgia, Alabama, Mississippi and southeastern Louisiana, and southward through Florida, and is also found in the West Indies and Central America. This tree grows best on low, poorly drained flats near bays and swamps.The WoodThe heartwood is a rich orange to light brown or tan color with moderately thick light yellowish tinged sapwood. It is very heavy, the heaviest of all the pines, very stiff, strong, hard, straight-grained, uniform in texture and very resinous. It has no prominent figure. It nails hard, glues well and shrinks moderately.Pinus Caribaea (Morelet) by Romeyn B. Hough - Plate 125.UsesSlash Pine outranks all other southern pines in the production of naval stores, pine oils, etc. When treated with creosote it is used extensively for posts and poles. The wood is used for heavy general construction, ship building, sheathing and other common lumber uses where a high resin content is not objectionable. Considerable quantities of the wood especially of the younger trees are used for paper pulp.BibliographyShelley E. Schoonover (American Woods) 1951 (Watling & Co. ) Santa Monica, CA File AttributionsThe TreePinus elliottii at St. Joseph Peninsula State Park, Gulf County, Florida.Reference: File:Pinus elliottii(1).jpg. (2015, March 8). Wikimedia Commons, the free media repository. Retrieved 15:33, August 12, 2018 from https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?title=File:Pinus_elliottii(1).jpg&oldid=152432305. Attribution: By Mason Brock (Masebrock) [Public domain], from Wikimedia CommonsSlash Pine conesReference: PNGTreesKey - Pinus Caribaea Morelet. http://www.pngplants.org/PNGtrees/TreeDescriptions/Pinus_caribaea_Morelet.html. Accessed 12 Aug. 2018.Slash Pine BarkReference: Pinus_caribaea_0967.Jpg (JPEG Image, 2272 × 1704 Pixels) - Scaled (53%). http://www.pngplants.org/PNGtrees/images/Pinus_caribaea_0967.jpg. Accessed 12 Aug. 2018.Slash Pine Range MapEstimated realized gains for first-generation slash pine (Pinus elliottii var. elliottii) tree improvement in the southeastern United States.Attribution: Scientific Figure on ResearchGate. Source: https://www.researchgate.net/figure/Natural-range-of-slash-pine-Critchfield-and-Little-1966-and-location-of-the-38-slash_fig1_237866218 [accessed 6 Mar, 2019]Pinus Caribaea (Morelet)Pinus Caribaea (Morelet) by Romeyn B. Hough - Plate 125. North Carolina State University Libraries, https://www.lib.ncsu.edu/specialcollections/forestry/hough/vlgimage/plate_99.jpg Accessed 5 July. 2026.

This is a scanned document of the now defunct Workbench Magazine of this era. Permission was granted by the new Workbench Publication for The Patriot Woodworker community to copy and use the old Workbench Magazine at our pleasure, and for free distribution and re-use.Although seemingly complex, this mirror is quite simple and an excellent "first project" for anyone interested in making antique reproductions. Solid mahogany is used for the flat end pieces as well as for the molding.

Help Us Keep the Lights OnGoal $1200.00We are an all volunteer force We rely strictly on the generosity of our sponsor Easy Wood Tools, and you.Your experience here is AD FREE. There is no profit generated by operating this community. There are no annoying pop up ads either!So with that, please consider helping us keep the lights on, and donate today! Thank you and thank you to all members for making this community what it is today!IntroductionWe are having a fundraiser! Presented to you are some wonderful prizes donated by our members for the purpose of raising funds for our woodworking community.Help us stay live! We need you to help us offset the costs that go along with running our community. The monies collected during this fundraiser will be used to pay server dues, software licensing, maintenance, etc.How this worksIf you donate $2.00 to our fundraiser, your name will be entered into our random draw 1 times.If you donate $5.00 to our fundraiser project, your name will be entered into our random draw 3 times.If you donate $10.00 to our fundraiser project, your name will be entered into our random draw 7 times.The more you donate, the more chance you have of winning.The project will start on June 22, 2026 and end on August 1, 2025 when the names will be drawn to receive the fabulous items donated by our generous members.Donation amounts and number of entries$2.00 enters your name 1 times$5.00 enters your name 3 times$10.00 enters your name 7 times$20.00 enters your name 15 times$50.00 enters your name 50 times$75.00 enters your name 80 times$100.00 enters your name 110 timesEnter the drawingClick on the "DONATE" button!Fill in your billing info at the secured PayPal server (we do not have access to your credit or debit card details, and you do not need a PayPal account), and you're done, and good luck!DrawingItems will be assigned to the winners drawn in the following order.Turned Celtic Knot Rolling pin shown with wall hanger bracket. (Donated by Lewis Kauffman)Ramelson Carving Chisel Set (Donated by Illeene Kranks)6 Piece Woodriver Bench Chisel set (Donated by Dan Hunkele)EasyEasy Wood Tools 3/8" Mandrel (Donated by Lewis Kauffman)