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Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble

difalkner

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About difalkner

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    Apprentice
  • Birthday 07/18/1953

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  1. difalkner

    Happy Birthday David

    Thanks, Larry! It was a good day, indeed. David
  2. difalkner

    Happy Birthday David

    Thanks, guys! It's been a good day - I've been out in the shop ever since Sandy left for work. David
  3. difalkner

    High Gloss Sanding Tip

    That's the slurry from wet sanding. It's basically shellac 'dust' but since water is used for a lubricant it creates a slurry that helps fill the pores. So I don't completely remove it, just sort of wipe across the grain and that helps with the next coat of shellac. No sir, no brush. French polishing uses a pad to apply the shellac. You can see the pads in the jar to the left on the last photo. I put them in there so they don't get hard and I can use them again. David
  4. difalkner

    High Gloss Sanding Tip

    Shellac is the only finish that I'll be using. I may use lacquer on the neck for the next guitar because the shellac will wear quickly. But I've designed a completely bolt on neck and if I want then I can lacquer it later. David
  5. difalkner

    High Gloss Sanding Tip

    This project represents several firsts for me - 1) First acoustic guitar from scratch. I've replaced tops, backs, bridges, saddles, nuts, done inlay, repairs, etc. but this is the first one from scratch - resawed the wood, bent the sides, etc. 2) First time to do a French polish from the start and not just a repair. 3) First time I've made this many mistakes in a project and kept going, trying to figure out how to successfully fix what I've done and trusting it's still going to work out ok. So here's the sanding tip I learned a long time ago and I have no idea if it's something I read, something I figured out, or even if it's common knowledge - It takes twice as long sanding with the next grit as you spent sanding the previous grit. What do I mean by that? If you're sanding a finish, or even bare wood, with say 220 grit and you move to 320 grit, then if you sanded for 5 minutes with 220 then it's going to take 10 minutes of sanding with 320 to remove all of the 220 grit scratches. Right now I'm wet sanding the guitar that has a very thin film of shellac and when I wet sand with 320 it takes no more than a minute to do the back twice. When I switch to 400 I sand for about 2 minutes although I don't time it. Basically I sand the back twice, wipe the slurry off, blow it dry to see if I have even coverage of sanding, and then switch to 400 and do the same thing. Only now with 400 I do the back about 4 times. When I switch to 500 I'll do it 8-10 times. When I get to 600 I'll be doing it at least 15 times. By the time I get to the 1200/1500/2000 I'll probably keep going until it looks right and then switch to Micromesh. I haven't made it past 500 yet because I keep seeing where I'm getting too close to burning through to the Mahogany so I've had to stop and shellac again several times. So when I get to the finer grits it's necessary to judge how much finish is left so I don't go through on the polishing later. Anyway, it's a sanding tip I've passed along to lots of folks so while I'm waiting on shellac to dry it seemed like a good time to post this (only takes a few minutes to dry before I can sand again). Wet sanding Fresh shellac David
  6. difalkner

    Fusion 360 Adaptive Clearing

    I have used 2D and 3D Adaptive Clearing in Fusion 360 before but I've never used it correctly. The concept behind the toolpath profile is easy to understand but hard to commit to doing, at least it was for me. Each time I've used it with a 1/4" spiral bit, for instance, I've used a max stepdown of 0.20". So if I had a pocket that was 0.375" deep it took two passes to reach the bottom. And with the way the Adaptive Clearing toolpath works it is slower than other profile choices so it takes a while to clear a path. Well, today I decided to use it the way it was designed and that's to cut the full depth of the pocket in one pass. I had a very large Maple trivet to cut, 15" square, and doing it my 'old' way the toolpath projected time was 56 minutes. I changed the stepdown depth to allow for cutting in one pass and I cut the entire toolpath profile in about 20 minutes. And the shavings are large and clean - no burning or dust, just large chips like they're supposed to be. So here's what I cut - You can see the chips here - Full path completed - After 20 minutes of full depth cutting I touched the bit and spindle as soon as it stopped - it was cool to the touch. Trivet with mineral oil - David
  7. difalkner

    Hidden latch for rifle display case

    Build video - David
  8. difalkner

    Hidden latch for rifle display case

    Finally finished the display case. The good thing about a job where they tell you there's no rush is that, well, there's no rush. But I had a break in my normal activity so I pulled the display case out and finished it. David
  9. difalkner

    Window Mounted Fan For Spraying Lacquer

    LOL! My wood stash value with all the exotics exceeds that of the CNC, fwiw. Our insurance agent came over last year because she wanted some work done and she was blown away by all the tools and wood stash. She added a rider to our policy and it's all covered now (didn't cost much, either). It's fun here and I like participating, guys! David
  10. difalkner

    Window Mounted Fan For Spraying Lacquer

    No problem, John. Nobody here has bothered or offended me because I choose not to be offended or bothered. I have found the discussions interesting, occasionally far reaching, and in the end the fan mount is an improvement relative to what I had and will stay as is until it stops working or I blow up NW Louisiana, whichever comes first. I appreciate the fact that I can participate here - thanks for running a great forum! David
  11. difalkner

    Window Mounted Fan For Spraying Lacquer

    That's not near as efficient at removing the fumes quickly. I understand the principle and reasoning but that would cause the vapors to remain even longer and I think that would be worse. Getting rid of the odor quickly so it doesn't waft into the house where Sandy will have to endure it is paramount for me. I like it the way it is and will keep it this way but I am appreciative for the discussions and suggestions. As you were... David
  12. difalkner

    Window Mounted Fan For Spraying Lacquer

    Thanks for your concerns, Stick. David Edit - I added a disclaimer to the description ***Disclaimer*** This is not an explosion proof fan. If you're wanting to build a similar stand for your shop you should probably look into an explosion proof fan or other setups to prevent fire and explosions
  13. difalkner

    Window Mounted Fan For Spraying Lacquer

    Thanks guys, but I have thought this through and have been putting that fan in the window for the last 18 months. I just now decided to mount it so I don't have to jump through hoops to keep the fan on the window sill and to increase air flow. I realize it isn't explosion proof but when I spray it isn't very heavy and with the HVLP gun there's so little overspray and airborne material that it's gone in no time. Now if I was using a cup gun and filling the room with a cloud of vapors that would be a different story but I spray small items and it's over with pretty quickly. There's another window and it's open to bring in fresh air. Yes, the gas can has gas in it like millions of other guys have in their garages for their lawn equipment. I put the mower out on the back porch but if I put the gas can out there the plastic won't last and the gas will likely evaporate. It's a wood shop, no metal work, no open flames anywhere near the gas can that's been there going on 11 years. Is this ideal? Nope. But we don't have the budget or the space to build a dedicated wood shop out back or even a shed to put the lawn equipment and gas can in so this is going to have to do. David
  14. This window mounted fan support is a long overdue shop upgrade project. Every time I spray lacquer I had to rig the fan to stay in the window (it fell once and bent the blades). And it didn't work very well, either. As much air came in the window as the fan blew out. Also, every bug that got near the window got sucked in by the vortex on the periphery of the fan. This is much, much better! Enjoy! David
  15. difalkner

    Source For Those Brush Skirts

    Mine is actually a bit too stiff, as well. But I make it work. David

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