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Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble

The Patriot Woodworkers with Operation Ward 57 Adopt a Wounded Warrior Family for the Holidays - 2019 project is live, please click on link to view our very special annual project.


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About difalkner

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  • Birthday 07/18/1953


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  1. Very nice sign - good work! David
  2. I have greatly improved not only the process but the speed at cutting Longworth chucks so I thought I'd do another video. When I first cut these chucks they were taking about 16 minutes per disc followed by 5 minutes or more per disc of hand sanding the edges to clean off the tabs and to round the edge. Occasionally the Baltic Birch would chip where I cut a tab and that was frustrating. Anyway, it's now a fairly refined and efficient process for a small home workshop. It could be improved upon but for now it's working just fine. The tools for the entire process are circular saw to break down the BB, table saw, drill press, CNC, stationary belt sander, drum sander, and ROS. Here's the video - David
  3. Yes sir, plenty flat before cutting the circle. And I thought about doing what you said but this way works just fine and is just about at the capacity of a single pass through the sander. It will take 19" in one pass and the sacrificial boards were a bit over 18", so I couldn't turn them much at all and still have the drum sand the entire sacrificial piece. David
  4. I keep 3 or 4 pieces of different thickness on the drum sander stand and most of the time grab the one closest to what I'm sanding. They are all different shapes of cut off pieces but most are probably 5 to 6 inches. And I often feed those boards cross grain because I want to span the width of the piece I'm sanding, or at least come close, and it doesn't matter if these sacrificial pieces have cross grain scratches. David
  5. For those of you who use a drum sander you know that sometimes you'll get snipe just like on a planer. The quick trick to eliminating that is just like with a planer - use a sacrificial board in front of and behind the work piece. Now, that's all fine and dandy if you have straight edges on your work piece but if it's oddly shaped or round, then what do you do? Well, what I do is save the cut-offs from the work piece. They're the same thickness and should fit pretty closely to run in front of and behind the target work piece. A few weeks ago I cut a large Lazy Susan and didn't allow enough on my scrap pieces to use them on the drum sander. What I ended up with was a very beautiful Walnut Lazy Susan but at the correct angle, and if you knew what to look for, you could see some very faint snipe. I didn't take a photo but I could see it. So when I made this even thicker Walnut cutting board I was determined to not fall into that trap again. My cut-offs were large enough to go in front of and behind the cutting board and what I ended up with is a perfectly flat 18" round surface. I cut the scrap pieces down to where they fit just inside the width of our 19/38 drum sander and made sure to feed them in before and after the cutting board on each pass of each grit from 120/150/220. I've also done this with angled pieces where the leading edge is angled relative to the grain direction and it truly makes a difference. David
  6. It just occurred to me as I looked at the photos that I didn't mention, nor does it show, but the figured Walnut border on the lid is angled 7.5°. I cut those strips about 1/16" thick and then had to miter them at the corners. With very thin veneer that's pretty quick and easy but with pieces even 1/16" thick that has to be a compound angle. Came out ok, though. Also, I used rare earth magnets on either side of the Red Palm to keep the lid closed. David
  7. A friend builds some very nice custom knives and we've been talking about a collaboration on Etsy, for him to build the knife and me to build a box. He didn't have a knife ready but I built a box anyway. And I built a knife... The box is Walnut with Figured Walnut accents and Red Palm handles, finished in Nitrocellulose lacquer. The knife is Curly Maple, Red Palm, and Figured Walnut, finished is French polish Shellac. Enjoy! David
  8. This was not a difficult project but the Walnut is so pretty I figured I'd show y'all. Originally they wanted me to cut all the detail in the IG Badge but it was over 19,000 nodes and it brought Fusion 360 and my computer, which ain't too shabby a computer, to its knees. Each time I would make a slight change in the file to clean up a jagged edge or something it took my computer and F360 about 15 minutes to refresh and hand control back to me. Ultimately we settled on the trophy shop doing the detail on the laser and I would just cut the outline and add the block on the bottom for a brass plate. This has a couple of coats of Nitrocellulose sanding sealer and gloss lacquer and it's about 14" tall x 9 1/2" wide. The knot and cracks look far more pronounced in the photo than in reality and are very smooth. There will be so much laser burning in this area that I don't think it will be noticed anyway. When I talked to them a couple of days ago they indicated they'll probably want 10 to 12 of these. Here's the graphic - Front view - Close up - Back - Like I said, not difficult or really worth of a thread but I just love the Walnut so y'all get to see it. David
  9. Thanks, Dave!! To be clear, I don't have an ATC (Automatic Tool Changer) so the bit changes are manual and I have to set zero each time. Bit and collet changes take about 30 seconds and setting zero takes another 30 seconds so the time for bit changes is low. I have cut Walnut at 200 ipm a few times but usually cut at 175 ipm. These trivets represent such a small area that going much faster than 125 ipm is pointless and actually causes the CNC to jerk around quite a bit with the higher speeds and I don't think it cuts any faster. It is typically cutting less than 2" before picking up and getting a new bite so it may not even be reaching 125 ipm even though Mach4 is reporting back to me that it does hit that occasionally. Now on the perimeter cuts and full depth clean-up cuts it definitely reaches 125 ipm. And I am in agreement on the speed vs. me trying to do it by hand - it seems awfully fast relative to how I use my plunge router and router table. I just don't get anywhere near that speed when I cut by hand. David
  10. Thanks! I'd love to tell you I've never had the two touch but if you look at the end of the nozzle you'll see that would be a hard sale... Davd
  11. Here is the video for making these trivets - David
  12. Thanks, Dave! The guy who ordered them said his wife has 6 sisters and all names start with 'B'. Their dad nicknamed them B1 through B7 according to birth years. I guess it worked for them. David
  13. When we opened our Etsy shop a year ago I offered a Superman style trivet and the option to have it customized with the letter of your choice. I had made one with the S for my son because he likes to cook and I thought it would be cool. Turned out the very first order we got was for a customized trivet with a 'C' instead of the S. The finish is straight mineral oil and the notches are to allow air in/out since these are trivets for hot pans. This is the 'C' we did - This is the original - Nobody has asked for one since that first order but all of a sudden this week we've gotten two custom orders. The first one was for a set of 7 trivets with B1-B7. Doing one letter is easy because I can fully support it around the perimeter but doing two meant thinking through the support to keep the numbers from breaking off or chipping while cutting so I added a cross-grain triangular piece on the back side. These are the B1-B7 trivets - And the back side with the cross-grain piece - The next order came in the day I finished the Walnut set and this one is Maple with cherries. I had to make sure the stem of the cherries was thick enough not to break off during cutting but not be so thick that it looked odd. I'm working on a video of the cutting and should complete that soon. What's neat about that is I used the CNC to cut all the way through the 3/4" material in one pass. In addition to the table saw, planer, drum sander, bandsaw for resawing and other tools in the shop there are 11 different steps in cutting these on the CNC with a lot of bit changes so it wasn't really a simple 'push the button and wait' sort of project. Enjoy! David
  14. The laser shop sent me a photo of the finished boat prop with the Walnut plug I cut. They used their new color machine to match the colors and artwork of the boat name. The boat owner was ecstatic, so on to the next project! David
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