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Michael Thuman

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About Michael Thuman

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    Apprentice

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  • First Name
    Michael
  • My Location
    Laporte Indiana
  • Gender
    Male
  • My skill level is
    Intermediate

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  1. I would get a garbarge can and a dust deputy or something like a cyclone to removed all the heavy debris in the can and that way the filter in the vacum last a very long time. I have one for you if you like but it was used with a delta blower style dust collector also for you if you like but it is 4" not 2" like the shop vac is. I have since upgraded to a full blow dust collector system.
  2. ROS 150 is usually fine but hand sand to 220 or higher.
  3. Always use synthetic steel wool. The actual steel wool dust when finish is applied over it will turn black and ruin your finish. I believe that is for waterborne finishes. If using oil based finishes I think you will be good. Here is my receipe does anyone see any issues with the below. 1. Strip the finish. 2. Sand the wood with 320 or 400. 3. Wipe down with laqurer thinner. 4. After dry move it to the finishing space in your shop and vacum throughy the entire peice. 5. Dye with alchol or water based dye to get your backgroud color. 6. Stain with oil based stain to create an interesting fore ground or do not stain at all. 7. Top coat with catelized laqurer or poly.
  4. Then apply BLO then top coat?
  5. Too late now we will have to wait. The pine really absorbs this oil. Once the wood feels dry can I top coat it?
  6. I am finishing a pine project and the client likes the look of mineral oil over the pine. Then they want a satin finish poly. I am used to BLO not mineral oil. How long does it take mineral oill to cure so that it can be top coated successfully?
  7. It all depends on your preference. Because of dust and paint and finish dripps I normally use poly or laq then paste wax. But my cabinets are old kitchen cabinets so the finish is someone in tact.
  8. Boards a QS white Oak jointed edges no wrapage visible.
  9. Not sure what you mean by reading the board before riping? Reading?
  10. Well I prep this way. 1. Joint 1 face. 2. Joint 1 edge 90 D to face. 3. Plane the wood to the desired thickness. 4. Rip with thte jointed edge against the fence. 5. Re-join the edge 6. Rip again. The fence that came with my saw is a giant T square type (Unifence) of fence that came with the saw but as I said the fence is parallel to the blade by .001.
  11. Yes the jointed side always goes away from the cutters. But to get a flat side you need to joint it.
  12. I have a delta contractor saw (36-455 10" Contractors Saw Grand Edition White). When riping the wood move away from the fence by about 1/8 to 1/4" . The fence is parallel to the miter gage. The saw blade is parallel to the slot. The rip (forgive me) seperator can be installed on two side of a flat plate. It is on the outside. When placed on the inside it binds the wood to the fence. The installation drawing shows it as I have it on the outside. It cuts parallel and true to the scale on the saw. But will leave some burn marks on the sawn side. What is not alligned properly? How do I fix this.
  13. I purchase carbide tiped knives for my jet 15" planer. They last and last and last then sharpen them. The carbide is good for aobut 4 sharpenings. For me well worth the money.
  14. Joint only to get a true edge. Planar clamps the wood to the table as it feeds thru so if the other side is not flat it will just translate thru to the planed side. Use a jointer.
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