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Michael Thuman

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About Michael Thuman

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  1. All what i have done to keep weeds at bay and critters at bay was to go the TSC and purchase compress bailed hay. When I lay it down the tightly in 1.5" T layers around my plants no more weeds no more ground hogs but I have no deer. TSC says the ground hog knows the smell of hay and normall avoids it to get in trouble with the farmer and horses. If you starve the onions of light they will die and compost. If you place your squash and other fruit on top of the hay it will not ground rot nor normally will boring insects find it.
  2. Rusty if you could take us with pictures from start (blank selection) then glue up then each phase of turning that would be wonderful almost as wonderful as your finished bowl. We are hear to support, applaud and lean.
  3. Thanks all I just spent some time on the internet learning about General Finishes lines. The challenge with the basement is fresh air. If I crack a window up hear in NW IN next to Lake Michigan the temp in the basement drops in 15 minutes to below freezing from the normal 50F. Maybe I should build my project during snow season the finish them in the spring when temps are in the 50-60 F range. Small patch the problem is the water heater that cannot be turned off the furnace is a sealed system. General finishes has a water based pre cat lacquer that is sprayable out of the can after filtering but may need thining (h20) depending on the equipment you have. As this stuff is dry in 10 minutes I doubt I could build up enough fumes to get to the boom level espically because it is water based. But I am now looking at GF high performance water based poly acrylic as my go to finish. Can be brushed (foam) on or paded or sprayed. The lacquer for moldings, frames, undersides, doors. The 2X more expensive HPPoly for Table tops and kitchen cabinets. Both come in Flat to High Gloss. They also review as the best out there. I did not know water based Lacquer even existed until an hour ago. I used to onlyl use oil based poly becuase I was consistently disappointed with water based products. I do normally dye the wood to the desired background color (h20 based) with pre raising. Then when completely dry put on an oil based stain to further bring out (actually reverse) the grain. Then when dry 72 hours but typically they are dry in 24 hours in winter. Then top coat with WB poly but here is where I failed becuse I would go to the big box stores and bring home polycrylic which takes a lot of practice to use. Bubbles do not flow out it runs really easy but does work the majority of the time but the GF HP Poly look much more promising. So now I need a spray booth with a fan and filter to pull the overspray out of the booth as I paint but I can blow that into the basement and keep the heat in the room. Smallpatch if refinishing assume silicone based contanimation exists and seal it with shellac. Then refinish. I am old enough to remember the think lacquer but never used it beause I did not know how to use it. Fred thanks but with GF water based lacquer I don't believe I will ever need solvent or oil based anything on new peices.
  4. I should have mentioned I am a hobbyist not a production shop. The shop is in the basement with the furnance and hot water tank. The shop is 50' long by 25' wide. IF my largest project is a cabinet with 10 min of spray time do I really need to be worried about getting the LUL? The furnance is a sealed burner. The hot water tank is not. So vapors lighter than air should be OK but vapors heavier than air could be a problem. I have aciddently left open mineral spirts, shellac, lacquer thinner and acteone for hours and no fires or flash point. I know I should never leave the shop with open anything but sometimes memory fails.
  5. I have a challenge for you all I am starting building more in winter than summer due to summer activities. If my finishing room is bring in fresh air from the window and exhausting it out the door how would you maintain a comfortable temperature level. Spraying lacquer in 20F temps or anything oil based would be challenging.
  6. OK hvlp it will be and I am OCD about the cleanleness of my guns. Are you HF guns conventional or HVLP? Same for the JJ and Rockler? For the spray booth during the summer I can use an explosion proof motor in a fan for all finishes but in Winter (which by the way is my main building season) how do I create an internal spray booth. My shop is 52' x 40' basement with furnance and hot water tank so I need to be very good at capturing all flamable overspray.
  7. Thanks I will check them out once I find a store. Would lacquer benefit from HVLP or is it fine to use convention spay gun?
  8. Good to know time for a spray booth. How well does pre-cat lacquer stand up to chemicals vs. Poly?
  9. All the final update on this. I let my 2nd water poly coat set up sand it down smooth then started using the water based clear grain filler. It workes great as long as you use a squeege.
  10. All just as an update the sanding between coats I do with 400 paper and have learned that you need to not put on a full coat with water based poly unlike oil based. You need to put on a very thin coat and you can stand there and watch it dry. If you go thicker it does tend to run or bubble but the bubbles (again unlike oil based) do not flow out so brush very softly. Then do not touch it. So far I am not liking water based poly very much as all. On another thread I did use grain filler over water based poly then let it harden up over night and bushed on a thin coat or water poly and it can out great. Keith I know you sang the praises of pre cat laq but it is very costly compare to poly and does not stand up as well to chemicals used for cleaning as poly but becuase it melts into the previous layer I am very much considering using it. Please let me know what the cavates of pre cat laq is and can it be padded, brushed or sprayed easily? Sorry for stealing this thread may be Keith creat a TGIF on pre cat laq use and cautions.
  11. Thanks This is water based pre mixed clear paste and because you are working it into the grain you probably do not want it directly on top of the stain so that is why they recommend shellac but my clear shellac is corrupted. (OLD). The Wood is QS WO. The finish is a medium brown dye and a chesnut minwax stain (final color is actually quite dark). That is why I was thinking I can put on a thin waterbased poly seal coat then per their directions put down one layer and work it into the grain then do it again and again until glass smooth but make sure it is fully dry between applications. It also says the final top coat has to protect the grain filler so weather I brush it on or wipe it on or spray it on I can always rub out the top layers.
  12. Does this stuff melt into the other finish or does it require sanding between coats?
  13. A long but valuable video. I may have to look into this stuff.
  14. Hi all tomorrow I will use for the first time a grain filler for a table top that should be smooth as glass. They suggest a barrier coat of shellac. That would change the color a bit but can I use a very light coat or water based poly as a barrier coat? Then they reommend a plastic card (credit card) to spread the filler cross grain. I would think stay 45 degrees to the grain so that you do not pull the filler out. Currently the table top has been dye (water) and stained (oil). Any advise would be appreciated. Yes i have scrap and am ready to use it first.
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