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Michael Thuman

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About Michael Thuman

  • Rank
    Joiner

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  • First Name
    Michael
  • My Location
    Laporte Indiana
  • Gender
    Male
  • My skill level is
    Intermediate

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  1. Back when I did this we had to unbury the existing direct bury cables. Then drop in our new cables then good to go. Expensive yes worth it yes keep the power on until the final cut over and you must hire and electrical contactor to do the job.
  2. Flammables only cause when stored near and ignition source. That said they can be heavier than air and can be drawing in by a water heater. So my solution keep them air tight and then forget about them. Now I was cleaning out my Dad's place and the caustic solution in the metal contain had leaked. I smelled it and the aroma told me acid. I told Dad go wash now and we was already at the nearest sink. Then we cleaned it up with paper towels and set them out to dry. Long story short you can safely keep flammables away for ignition sources. In my case out of
  3. This method I like and may give it a try. Shellac is an awesome product that can do or save almost anything. Too bad it is getting rare due to the Shellac bug dying out.
  4. Or the wood and I am not sure how to clean off the brake cleaner?
  5. Has anyone found a way to overcome Silicone contamination or to seal it?
  6. Are the colors accurate as maple panels with walnut stile and rail? I see the construction is partial overlay. What I am my spouse like as we good old all the base cabinets will be drawers only. Then Doors on top. Still a real nice design but some more detail may be necessary such as door build details, drawer build details and cabinet build details at to clue how to build them. Many options exist for each of them. A question can sketch up create and exploded view to show the construction details? I am still trying to convince my spouse that I should build the next kitchen.
  7. I would not let paint and globs of other stuff get on any of those beautiful surfaces. please cover with 1/8" hard board!
  8. I would check with the local organization and make sure your $150 is not just for monitoring and testing the lake water. If you and your neighborhs are pulling water out faster than it comes in the is a disaster in progress. Most lakes around me are wells only never are we allowed to pull water directly out of the lake and also is your lake certified clean enough for human consumption? Not one of ours is including our resivour.
  9. All please use the new treated pine that is fine for outdoor use and use gray paint (oil based or acrylic) of your choice. Paint if more protective and UV stable than Poly. IF it must be a clear finish and not painted then go get cypress or ceader then stain as desired. Then go to the paint store and purchase (if they will sell it) heavy base tint. That is actually a clear paint with excellent UV protection. Sherwin Williams stores usually sell it. Most outdoor chairs are painted in primary colors and gloss so that they are easy to identify and clean.
  10. All sorry for my late reply. Ground level decks on blocks are fine if the deck is large enough but flexible enough to accomodate frost heaving. But ground level decks has another issue. You must kill everything growing to about 3 ft outside the profile of the ground level deck. Then you must put down a vapor block (probably 20 mil plastic on the bare ground. Then place your deck blocks then put down some washed clean gravel on top of that on the outside put your favorite durable ground cover (river stone, lava rock, more gravel...) Please also level the ground under the dec
  11. Open the garage use a bar clamp one side on the stone and one on the inside of the garage header. Or better yet us a caul of wood to spread out the load on the stone side. You probably need to extend the arms with wood for the depth requried. But you just need a little pressure to keep the stones in place. If you use the original motar the motar will suck the stones tight to the substrate.
  12. A jointer is a required tool for any shop. A jointer flattens the wood to a plane being the bed of the jointer. The Thickness planar will clamp your work straight then take off what you have set then when it comes out the other end it is bowed or twisted as it was when it went it. 3/4" x ?? x 4' wold work on a 6" jointer and should cost around $200 or use a jointer hand plane and flatten one side. Then plane on the TP to the desired thickness. The sled idea is the plane and the router makes the peice parallel to the sled so the wood is effectively planed. Then you ne
  13. Hi Paul nice build is the attic access still accessible?
  14. The work benches are like my router table I made it thick so that when the laminate wears out (next 20 years) the top can be flipped and the insert will drop right in the exact same place. For a work table I prefer laminate over a solid substrate and then wax the laminate (formica) and nothing sticks. As for planes steel is harder than laminate and when I put down a plane I am careful to set the cutting side away from the table top. When I was careless the plane irion cut right thru the laminate with no problem. Please make sure your substrate is very flat.
  15. This picture shows a rounded top. Why not embrace it put some finishback on it and work with the hinges and locks until it starts working again. After all a chest with rounded top is good and then you just scab in some fitting fillers on the side.
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