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Michael Thuman

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About Michael Thuman

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    Laporte Indiana
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  1. It is all double strength glass and not so heavy. I like the felt idea also. I think mounting glass just between a sandwitch of wood is asking for trouble.
  2. Hi all I am building a curio cabinet for my daughter and the design has a rabet that the class sits in then a keeper to keep it in place. But i am thinking I should use some felt or silicone or sealant to keep them rattle free and not get broken. What are your thoughts. For a picture think of a wood top with a glass insert. Then 2 glass shelves. Then 2 doors with glass panels. Then 2 side that have glass panels. If i use the felt it may get too thick. I need advise please.
  3. Please check your local inspector or standards. 3 is the requirement >36" around here.
  4. Please check out infofast external insulation. https://www.insofast.com/explore/project-prep-before-you-install-insofast.html The EX 2.5 is eactly for what he is calling thermal bridging and much less expensive and better.
  5. It will be a lot of work but here goes my idea. Above the Joists and below the metal (yes you have to remove the roof) install 1" rigid foam so that the roof is in intiment contact with the insulation and the insulation is tied to the joists. If you have a not so even roof think about using spray foam in the depressions then trim them flush so that you have an even surface for the the instulation to bond to. I would glue the foam to the metal then screw thru the roof insulation and into the joists. Or go with headphones or accamulate yourself to the sound.
  6. Traditional roof - So slate then?
  7. As some have said I always "tin" or solder stranded together to become solid with good soldering practice and pure electrical solder not that plumbing solder. Then the strands in the wire stay together and twist clockwise (when looking at the top of the wire nut) I am a lefty but I just envision a clock and go that way except for Left hand threads for those your CCW.
  8. Thanks all my question was to prompt a discussion and find various reasons. Gerald evidently spays his finish. But even if you wipe it on you still will then have strips of unfinished back when the board shrink that is why I always finish the back first. In my case there are no fixed shelves but we all have seen wood move so you do not want strips of unfinished wood appearing. Plywood is both stong and stable (even 1/4") therefore if you cut it square (all 4 corners) then you can use it as a fitment tool. But be aware that finished edges from the manufactured are supposed to be square but rarely are. Regardless of the construction method one of the easiest way to keep your case from racking after construction is to glue your back in place. What I have done is to put down a glue line in the dado for the back then spread it around then put on my peice and nail it off to act as the clamp while wiping any glue squeeze out form the inside. As Gerald also wrote it is very good for tall narrow items such as book cases or if you are moving the furniture. Well if this is a frestanding peice it will always be moved. Therefore unless you are building built ins I would glue and nail/staple the backs. Thanks for Participating.
  9. When you create a peice of furniture you sometimes use a back of 1/4" ply. Do you glue or nail it in place? Do you prefinish it and the rest of the peice so that you can spray the interior ? Do you fasten it in place to act as a squaring device then after the glue drys in the frame remove it for finishing later on? I am finishing up my daughters curio cabinet and think it should go this way. 1. cut to fit but do not install. 2. Fiinish the face and sides of the peices and spray if desired. 3. Finish the plywood back. 4. Install the back with Nails to allow some wood movement.
  10. Still working on daughters curio cabient from wood.
  11. I see many holes from insects please make sure you quarenteen this then kill all the insects before they infest your existing stock pile.
  12. When you put the tile in you use a 3/16" v-notched trowl or similiar. That is designed to cover the 1/8" and you will never notice it.
  13. Depending on the diameter of the bit such as panel rasiers that are up 4" that means you have to have a hole 4.125" min and that behind the fence realestate is used up. I built Norm's table and it has been working fine for years.
  14. 23/32" too tight 23/32" +1 shim just right.
  15. Well given the advice the dadio kit i have is 23/32 or .718 and the plywood coming in at .719 to .730 I think I will cut it at .718 and see if I can press it in. (Test Peice Number one). If use some shims to slowly creep up on a press fit with wood damage. I will let you know what I come up with.
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