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Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble

Michael Thuman

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    Laporte Indiana
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  1. Congratulations on a job well done.
  2. MLCS has a good boxed set that also can go 4" with patience and sharpening.
  3. Warning Pledge has silicone in it. Do not use it or anyohter cleaner or polish with silicone.
  4. Hi here i go again. Bought a veneer door from big box stoors. Says finish with oil based material. Oil based stain still around oil based poly or lacq no more. 1. Finish sand 320 then 400. 2. Apply minwax dye/stain. 3. Seal with sellac blonde or garnet. 1.5 lbs cut two coats. 4. Sand down shellac where needed. 5. Apply water based poly or lacq. The veneer does not play well with water. How does my above receipe sound?
  5. If you want a smooth top look at the frames and routing methods documented on this site. I would search on Slab Flattening.
  6. He wrote putting in a rabbet for the shelves in the extnsions. So when the shelves all fold down and the extensions fold in on the shelves they will all be captured but how do you set up the shelves to all work together. Can a log rod be inserted on the front of the shelves so that the shelves work as shutters? Then once the side capture all the shelves then the rod can be removed.
  7. The machines in a wood working shop are mainly a motor of 1 HP to 5 HP. So your computer controller can reduce the power of the motor as needed. What would be great would be a jointer for 8' for shorter boards. a thickness planar for 15" wide or wider material. A cabinet saw. A router/shaper utilizing the standard size bits. An ocilisating spindle sander and a disk/belt sander. If you look at a cabinet saw it normally has fence with a very large table. By utilizing different inserts and additions onto that table I am sure the motor mounted under that table cold power them all. When in saw mode remove the inserts or table additions for the sanders and routers and jointer/TP. When in jointer / TP mode add the required apparatus to the existing saw table. When routing just drop in a hole add the router then power by belt the spindle and using the existing fence. Add horizontal grooves in the table for use with a router. Think of this as more of a shaper but for 1/4 and 1/2" bits. Then the same table and motor can be used for a spindle sander just replace the router shaft. Then the disk/belt sander could be a sub or super table attached to the saw table that would work as a sander. The change over between tools should be limited to no tools and 5 minutes or less. If you think of the normal material preparation the machines used in order are. 1. Jointer 2. Thickness Planar (TP). 3. Saw 4. Router/Sander/Oscilating spindle sander. One other addition to this all in one macine would be a lathe. The lathe can be powerd but will need it own fence and tool rest. The space constraint this has to be smaller than all the machines combined. I hope this is at least interesting.
  8. The mirror is very top heavy compared to the shelf. I would mount the mirror using mirror adheasive. Then mount the shelf to the wall outside the mirror profile. Silicone will contaminate the wood. I wold use something else.
  9. with it flush on the back how do you retain the mirror in the rabbet? Then how do you do hang this?
  10. Or residing then do it. Later reroofing then do it. Sub floor under a crawlspace do it now.
  11. Been bored at work lately bene studying building science. Please see https://www.buildingscience.com/documents/insights/bsi-001-the-perfect-wall If you are thinking about residing this may be the time to upgrade your dwelling. Start with all the siding stripped off but the plywood or osb still on and set even with the masonary foundation wall. Install a control layer as noted in the above site. Install an insulation later as noted in the above site. I really like https://www.insofast.com/resources/insulation-panels-for-exterior-commercial-framed-walls.html because it has a drain screen that helps drain the water from the control layer. Then is has the plastic stud that is glued or fastened to the control layer. So it has very little thermal bridging. Then install the siding directly over the insulation. Unfortunately my house is brick from the early 80's. so I cannot do any of this. but the control layer has to go all the way down to the footer as does the instalation layer. Then assuming some type of crawl space you can install the control layer all they way from footer to footer. Then install insulation. Then assuming a pitched roof strip off the shingles or metal and the tar paper. Install the control layer then more instulation (for this rigid foam is recommended to support the weight. Then shingle or install a metal roof with fasteners going in something solid. In this case insofast agian because of the 16" on center studs. Now the building is completly water tight vapor permable (no plastic under the drywall) and air tight (stops lots of water). You need to be sure you properly ventilate with a heat exchanger. Is this expensive sure by about 20% but saves 40% on heating and building rot. Please let me know what you think of this post.
  12. For the corners square with the chisel. For the depth leave 1/4" or the rabbet would be 1/2" for 3/4" stock. The glass will likely be 1/8" thick so the flats would 3/8" x 1/4" (rabbet width). At lease that was the method of the wood magazine curio cabinet.
  13. I have used a drill with a wire wheel to clean up bark. Then once cleaned of dirt and grit a draw knife or jointer or planar works fine. But just how hard is Mesquite? Is it like ironwood?
  14. I just hope you never ever sell the house. But if you add more lights it may look better. I love the wood but not the darkness of the overall area. If you sell the house I am sure some stupid person will paint it all white.
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