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Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble

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Gerald

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About Gerald

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    Master Carpenter

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  • First Name
    Gerald
  • My Location
    Brandon, MS
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    Male
  • My skill level is
    Advanced
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    We have not yet begun to fight

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  1. @AndrewB you have made a lot of progress. Looking better every day. Much better forms now. Just need to work on your tools control. By the way do me a favor and call then "gouges". Chisels are for flatwork. Oh and needs more sanding
  2. Well I decided to do a Newman but not as full. My carving and burning station needed something so cabinet and drawers were the thing. The stock for the cabinet was so rough looking on edges decided to edge band with cherry. Then used #3 plane to reduce it. Well then I have to sand that off, nice and smooth. Ok nothing of the assembly but this is what I have so far. Now a little on doors. This panel was not wide enough so I added a strip of Mahogany using a tounge and groove to secure it in place. Again no assembly pics . Totally assembled and then placed. No way to secure the back with the bottom panel in place so used a bracket to secure it . Well my choice for drawer front had some bad spots on back edges right were joints and bottom go so had to fill that. That was the progress for the last 3 days. Doors and drawer assembly scheduled for today and pushing forward.
  3. Steve the smaller are 2 inch and the upper are 3 but slightly larger since the blue is from Vince's. This is a Roloc system the pads screw onto a mandrel. In the lower photo to the right side are two round black objects with silver center, these are the mandrels. This system comes from https://woodturnerswonders.com/ He has both round shaft and new hex ball end extensions up to I think 8 inches. It could fit into any handle that has dimensions the same as the post. But my interface pads and gold sandpaper I prefer come from SandingWood.com .
  4. Love the look of them but I just cannot really get into it I have maybe 10 times the number of kits vs pens I have made. Made these with box for both sons.
  5. May have posted part of this before but these are shots of the sanding organization at my lathe station. The Roloc pads are screwed into pegboard which has had a proper size hole drilled. This does no damage to threads and is easy to retrieve . Sanders hang ready for use.
  6. Sanding may sound elemental but to get that good finish it is essential part of the process of turning to a finish. The best way to improve your finish is to first learn to turn to a better finish off your tools. This will take time so lets look at what to do till that happens. Always sand from beginning grit to finish grit. Do not skip grits. My progression is 80,120,180,220,320,400,600,800,1000,2000, 4000. Unless my finish off the gouge is good those steps are followed. Might start at 60 for a bad piece of wood , yes it is always the fault of the wood . For most turnings I only go to 400. How long do you sand with each grit? Answer=Till all scratches from the previous grit are gone. How do you see those scratches? Answer= LOW-Angled light on the surface. Sometimes these scratches show better if you do not remove the sanding dust but be sure to check after dusting off too. There are occasions when you will find scratches after a higher grit and in this case go back two grits and continue to follow progression. Is power sanding a good idea? Answer + can be used for at least part of the process. Do not power sand at full speed , a medium or low speed on the sander is sufficient. Do not press on the sander, its weight is plenty of pressure. Use hand rotation of the piece on the lathe, speed causes the sander and hand held paper to skip on the surface. Do not hesitate to work more on a problem area but be sure to feather out the area to disguise the spots symmetry . When possible sand with the grain by hand on the last two grits. In power sanding use a softer pad under discs over 180. Now what do I use. Sander Ridgid Job Max(corded) for 2 inch discs. Pros orbital sander (air Powered) for 3 inch discs. Sanding mandrels for both are from WoodturnersWonders.com in a system of Rolox pads with hook & loop. Paper for sheet I use Norton 3X and pads are Mirka gold from TurningWood.Com And Abralon pads Backup pads save your hook and loop on your mandrels. There are many ways to mount paper on handles , and inertial sanding handles that spin from the lathes power. For sanding inside hollow forms I use long locking tongs with the paper wrapped around a foam pad. For this lathe will need to be turning at a slow speed. You will find your own solutions and mine are not the only way to get there. When you find it necessary to sand on lathe under power always use speeds of 250 or less.
  7. Ok lets look at two things . First off the face plate is probably the most stable holding method but even this can be thrown off by some methods of turning.If you get a catch no matter how great the holding method the wood shifts over slightly or more so if in a chuck. This can also happen if you are taking too large of a bite with the tool. Now as to your video. Is that the way you always hold your gouge for turning? If so you are going backwards. The open flute (the hollow) should point in the direction you are cutting. To put it another way the point of the gouge should point in the direction of cut. Not sure what you were doing but you are lifting the gouge too much . It should ride thru the cut. Start and stop does not get the job done.
  8. Gunny I think you joshing us. That has got to be a daylight photo. Want to come down and do mine. Unless that causes the alarms to go off at the Springfield nuclear plant.
  9. Working on getting finish on several bowls. In between got this cabinet built and now contemplating the doors. Then here err is a bonus sunset
  10. @lew What I was thinking is we could each explain our approach to sanding. Maybe photos of equipment used and reasons for using that particular item. I will try to put something together tomorrow if I can. Of Coarse the idea is for everyone to share and remember this is just to describe your approach and maybe make suggestions if someone is way off base.
  11. Looking very good on this now. Just keep working out those problems. Oh by the way there are always problems.
  12. Once the surface for the tenon is flattened with blank on face plate and tailstock pulled up there should be no wobble. What about the spindle in headstock? Try to measure runout there with no load on it.
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