Jump to content
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


kmealy last won the day on October 10

kmealy had the most liked content!


About kmealy

  • Rank


  • First Name
  • My Location
    Warren County,OH (30 mi NE of Cincinnati)
  • Gender
  • My skill level is
  • Favorite Quote
    "There is hardly anything in this world that some man cannot make a little worse and sell a little cheaper, and those people who consider price only, are this man's lawful prey." John Ruskin (1819 - 1900)

Contact Methods

  • Yahoo

Recent Profile Visitors

5,450 profile views
  1. The saw at the scene shop was squeaking during raising and lowering the blade so I bought a can of this to lube it up. A few squirts and it worked wonders. While I had it, I lubed up my Unisaw. Wow what a difference in removing squeaks and easing tilt and blade lowering. Sprayed it on the rack and pinions, pivot points (metal on metal tracks) and guides. As I sprayed it on, it soaked in and dried in just a few seconds. The dry lube won't attract and gum up with sawdust. Well worth it.
  2. I have had Jogge's father, Wille's, book for a long time. Likewise, I never knew there were so many grip for a knife depending upon rough vs. fine cut, direction of grain, etc.
  3. Should clean up with some sanding with P400 sandpaper and Scotch-Brite pads and a lot of work. Sorry about your bad luck, but bet you won't forget to do this again.
  4. Was talking to a friend this morning about when I can drop off some stuff next week. He said, "I have six Saturdays and one Sunday every week."
  5. kmealy


    My wife and I alternate making ornaments for the grandchildren every year. A few years ago, I made some of these. You need to cut two pieces to shape, then cut in thirds, glue them up, then slice off the flakes. Very easy. https://books.google.com/books?id=tfYDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA75&lpg=PA75&dq=frank+klausz+snowflakes&source=bl&ots=5sdDidXq4j&sig=ACfU3U1vhvMrk6PNOgAcilzJJxvCR3GQbA&hl=en&ppis=_c&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwj_pLDY6tvlAhVSRqwKHRFFDd0Q6AEwCnoECAgQAQ#v=onepage&q=frank klausz snowflakes&f=false
  6. Not "quick acting" Guess they didn't think of that in 1891
  7. Thought I'd show some detail on my newly-installed patternmaker's vise. First some background: A patternmaker makes wooden patterns (duh) that are used in casting other objects, typically metal. There were several manufacturers here in Cincinnati that did castings, primarily for machine tools. I know several, including one of my good friends of 40 years. Some of the characteristics of patterns: nothing is square because they have to be withdrawn from the sand cast without disturbing it There are no sharp edges or joints. The convex joints are filled with fillets (FILL-its) Each pattern has to be adjusted for the metal that is being cast as they all shrink at different rates when cool, so they use "shrink rules" specific to each metal. For example, if you are going to have cast iron and need a 3" final measurement, the cast might be 3.178" Some surfaces will be milled/ground to a flat surface where they might join another piece (think parts of an auto engine) The pattern will usually have a few coats of paint that need to be allowed for. And they generally work in 1/64" (that are on the drawings as decimal fractions, so they've memorized fractional and decimal equivalents in 64ths) They are often of complex shapes such as spirals, parts of spheres, ellipses, etc. The patternmaker has to allow for two parts of a casting to come together for the final pour, yet allow for each part of the pattern to be withdrawn from the sand. As such, the patternmaker's vise needs to be very adaptive to position, tapers, and holding odd shapes. The classic brand is the Emmert. Mine is patented on Aug 11, '91. That would be 1891 and it appears mine was made around WWI. It is steel and cast iron and weighs about 85 lb. Don't drop it on your toes. I knew what these were 20 or so years ago when I bought mine for $125. Now they go for $800-1200. View in "resting position" The little knob on the side allows the outer jaw to move to hold a tapered piece. There are 4 integral "bench" dogs that lift up if you need them. The vise will swivel around 360 degrees The underside has some jaws for holding metal (the machinist's side) It also pivots out 90 degrees with about 5 stops along the way. You can pivot or rotate together. The jaws open about 14". If the knob on the front is not enough, the groove down one side holds a metal plate that will swivel about 30 degrees in either direction.
  8. I have a JDS that I bought when they first came out. I've also made one from a salvaged furnace fan blower, some plywood in a box around it, and a couple of furnace filters. It lacks the internal filters but better than nothing and only cost me some scrap plywood. It sits right now in my finish area and I let it run after I turn off the spray booth filter fan. It is a two-speed fan so I got a switch that runs high, low, and off.
  9. Found it, Waterlox Original dated 06/15. So roughly 4.5 years. Still looks to be in good condition. Six years must have been the can that went solid on me before I got these bags. I have a number of woodworking friends that are retired Proctor & Gamble engineers. One worked on bottle for a shampoo that had a Saran vapor barrier so the scent would not permeate the plastic and go into the air. Most plastics, to my understanding, are somewhat permeable to air and vapors. So for storing a finish in ordinary plastics, air gets in and reacts with the finish. I have a peanut butter jar into which I stored varnish and it's now a solid mass. I take it when I teach finishing classes. US Plastic in Lima, OH sells bottles that have vapor / solvent barrier. I used them to hold small amounts of naphtha, alcohol, and lacquer thinner in my touch up kit.
  10. Oil Finishes_ Their History and Use _ Popular Woodworking Magazine.pdf
  11. And just for future reference and amusement :-) Minwax poly technical data sheet.pdf
  12. I got a reply from S-W regarding the Minwax product "The product that you have referenced is an Oil Based Varnish- not a polyurethane. I have shared a link to the Data page below for more details regarding the product, its use and the application instructions: https://www.sherwin-williams.com/document/PDS/en/027426915107/ " I wish these data sheets were more readily available for the finishing products we use. This one is a good lesson on where, when and how to use a product. This information is not usually available on the back of the can. In case that link disappears or name changes, here's a copyMinwax Fast-Dry Varnish Technical Data Sheet.pdf
  13. I got one of these years ago and put some Waterlox in it. I hated spending good money on it and having half the can go bad. I'll have to look for it and see how it's fared. I believe it's been six years or more.
  14. Got this today from Waterlox. When I took finishing class, I was warned that waterborne finishes need 60+ degrees and need to stay above that for at least several days. I suspect Waterlox's information would apply closely to most oil-based varnishes Low Temperature FINISHING TIPS Are you getting ready to start a wood finishing project? Low temperatures can affect both the application and drying processes. Here are a few tips to keep in mind when finishing in cool weather. 1. CONSISTENT TEMPERATURES You’ll want the Waterlox and the surface you are coating to be close in temperature and at least 50°F during application and for at least 1-2 hours afterwards. 2. FOCUS ON VENTILATION For the first 2-4 hours, you want to get the air near the project exhausted to the outside. Fans directed outward in nearby windows will bring fresh air in and force contaminated air out. It is important that you do not blast air directly onto a surface immediately after coating as that can cause it to skin over and trap some of the solvents. 3. KEEP THE AIR MOVING After the first few hours, shift the focus to keeping the air circulating. You do not need hurricane force winds inside your room, but a box fan on a low setting blowing gently over the surface will help IMMENSELY with the cure and also help to diminish any lingering odors quickly. You can turn heaters back on (no open flames in the same room), partially close windows, etc. to help maintain a warmer environment, but remember that air flow will always be more important than warm temperatures! 4. BOX FANS ARE BEST Forced air and ceiling fans will be nowhere near as effective as directional air flow that you can achieve with a cheap box fan. Set these fans on a low to medium setting for a gentle breeze.
  • Create New...