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kmealy

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kmealy last won the day on October 10 2019

kmealy had the most liked content!

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About kmealy

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    Journeyman

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  • First Name
    Keith
  • My Location
    Warren County,OH (30 mi NE of Cincinnati)
  • Gender
    Male
  • My skill level is
    Advanced
  • Favorite Quote
    "There is hardly anything in this world that some man cannot make a little worse and sell a little cheaper, and those people who consider price only, are this man's lawful prey." John Ruskin (1819 - 1900)

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    BYHAMMERANDHAND@YAHOO.COM

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  1. While shellac makes a good barrier coat, you are switching mediums if your Minwax stain is oil-based. Give it plenty of time to dry/cure (perhaps a week or more) before hitting it with shellac. And be sure to wipe off the stain when you apply it. I used some last week and although I wiped it well, it still had wet spots two days later (cold basement).
  2. kmealy

    Wood polish

    I've used a lot of Guardsman and it's recommended by a number of high-end furniture manufacturers. It's an oil-water emulsion -- the water cleans off dirt and water-based stains (food, beverage, etc.) and the oil stays behind and adds a bit of sheen until it evaporates away. I have usually told people once a month for infrequently used furniture and perhaps weekly on a dining table with kids. Otherwise, simply a dry dust cloth or a damp cloth to clean off daily spills. To us guys, Pledge is pure evil. The silicone oil is like herpes -- once you have it, you have it forever. Touch up repair is a bear and so is stripping and refinishing because it will cause fish eyes. Shellac will seal it in, but then you might need to top coat with the finish of choice. I also find Pledge leaves a lot of smudging and fingerprints. Hate it. I used to be able to tell a table that had been Pledged even while stripping it. Disclaimer: for a number of years I was a Guardsman Furniture Pro franchisee and later did not renew but continued to do work for them.
  3. PopWood intellectual property was sold to Woodsmith during their parent company's bankruptcy (F+W Publishing). I knew most of the people that worked there and keep in touch with most of them. Most of the stuff they're posting now are reruns from the last 10 years. I think a lot of the "contributing editors" were worried about getting paid for their contributions. But I know Chris Schwarz pulled the plug a while ago, but don't know how much he had in the pipeline. Unfortunately, he's been so busy, he isn't having open houses at LAP until mid summer.
  4. I read a review recently about two combo squares, comparing the gold standard Starrett with a $10+- Empire. They were impressed with the accuracy of the Empire and even liked the (trademarked) blue level bubble. I decided to get one of he 6" ones that I could keep in my shop apron. I took it out and checked against my 12" Starrett. Darn if it was not dead nuts on. 1/10th the price it's a keeper.
  5. That is so amazing. My first year in woodworking, early 1980s, I attended a Tage Frid weekend seminar. This was a common technique he used. What is old is new again.
  6. Lew has nailed it. When it comes to the final finish, you can also run a few trials on the underneath with various finishing products and methods and see which you like. Some stains on some woods will blotch terribly and that is extremely difficult to undo.
  7. • As a multi-function machine, what functionality would you want? I.e. planer, jointer, saw, drilling. Etc. Here are the operations I do the most (and I am definitely not a wood turner) in the following steps: Smoothing the wood on both faces and both edges (jointer and planer, table saw, hand planes) AKA S4S Convert long, skinny boards into shorter wider boards (i.e., edge gluing) to rough dimension where needed. (glue and clamp) Paying attention to grain patterns and selecting pleasing arrangement. Cut above boards to final dimension. (Table and/or miter saw) Cut joinery (generally for me, table saw, making mortise and tenon, rabbet, miter, dovetails, dadoes, etc. Sometimes specialized tools like mortiser, biscuit cutter, doweling jig, drill press, etc.). Edge profiling with router, when needed. Tapering or cutting and sanding curves, when needed. Break sharp edges with sanding or palm router. Preliminary sanding Glue and assemble joints, attach trim and other pieces (base molding, plywood edging, dividers, keys) Final sanding Staining (when needed) and finishing (wipe, brush or spray) Adding hardware (hinges, pulls, drawer glides, shelf brackets, glass) with positioning and pilot holes as needed.
  8. I did some online looking for some wood chips for a smoker. Most places either didn't carry them or were out of stock locally. I did find the local Menards had 42 bags of them. $1.99 sale price after $1 off. Just for the heck of it I looked up "delivery options." They'd deliver to me for a mere $109.00. It's all of 20 miles away all but the first and last mile on one expressway. Luckily, I found a 3' piece of hickory in my lumber inventory. Saved $111.
  9. For my life topic should read "Annoying neighbors" Seems like we've always had one. Like the old maxim if you don't know the sucker at the poker table it's probably you.
  10. Yeah, I build a large shelving unit to fit in the guest room closet. The wire shelves (HATE HATE HATE Them) on one side came crashing down. So the project this weekend is to tear down the wire shelves on both sides and put up something proper. It appear that about 20 years is the lifespan of the plastic clips before they turn brittle and snap.
  11. I just don't do a lot of dadoes. I do a lot of rabbets but find it easier to just run two passes on the table saw combo blade -- I'm done before I could have the blade changed. Or if it's just one or two, I'll make multiple passes and level with a chisel. I do use the dado set when I have a lot of them to do (like the workbench I just finished) Mine is an 8" Freud but don't remember the model #.
  12. I was on the Shopsmith web site the other day and noticed that they have a bunch of free plans. Well, almost. Most of them are 404. I decided to order a catalog while I was there. First off, the address was hand-written. They I saw the prices. They want $1700 for the tables only to upgrade from the Mark V to Mark 7 version. Cripes, that's more than I paid for my whole Unisaw. Many aging boomers and older dying or giving up the shop due to health or other reasons after owning them for decades. Most (realistically priced) ones I have see go for $300-500 with a couple of the extra tools (bandsaw, jointer, or belt sander). I go by the old plant regularly and it seems every time I see it, it's getting less and less of the building. They don't even have a storefront any more and I have not heard of the on the road sales/demos in a dozen years. A friend of mine was actually one of those guys and was a top performer until he got laid off.
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