Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


kmealy last won the day on October 10 2019

kmealy had the most liked content!


About kmealy

  • Rank
    Master Carpenter


  • First Name
  • My Location
    Warren County,OH (30 mi NE of Cincinnati)
  • Gender
  • My skill level is
  • Favorite Quote
    "There is hardly anything in this world that some man cannot make a little worse and sell a little cheaper, and those people who consider price only, are this man's lawful prey." John Ruskin (1819 - 1900)

Contact Methods

  • Yahoo

Recent Profile Visitors

6,676 profile views
  1. I wired my whole shop with #12 and agree completely. Subsequently, I found a tool that helps bend the ends and push/pull them in the outlet box. Used it just couple times and like it.
  2. Working on the theater shop outdoor lights. They just used Romex across the outside of the building (no conduit no UF or whatever is needed). Half the lights were not working. We isolated it to a section where it went above what was at one time a sliding door. There was about a foot of Romex sheaf that was chewed off and a bit of wire insulation chewed off. No bird or mouse carcasses that we could find, though it was about 18' in the air, so we didn't really check. I have used EMT (metal conduit) a few times, but the latest trip to Menards, they had some plastic cond
  3. Things are quiet here. I am putting some varnish on a couple of projects so dust-making is limited right now. I might be starting to put together a presentation for the wood club on measuring and marking tools, as soon as we decide on the rough content.
  4. I might be wrong, but I thought if wires went into conduit, it had to be THHN. Or maybe it's that you can't strip off the outside of Romex and use that because the individual wires are not labeled. I have put some Romex in conduit, but only for a few feet as it came down a wall surface mounted or underneath open joists to protect from impact.
  5. If you are going to use a water-borne finish, it imparts a very cool color. It's not very flattering unless you have some stain underneath. If w-b is what you can get, I suggest putting on a couple of coats of dewaxed shellac as an under-coat, then go with a w-b top coat of choice (assuming you can get it, I have heard you cannot buy denatured alcohol in CA). Who'd have thought alcohol bootlegging would have degraded to this?! I have used EnduroVar on my last few projects and it seems to be working fine, but I've always sprayed it. W-b dries very fast and is a bit tricky to brush, IMO
  6. If the Titanic sunk today
  7. Got one today for trestle sawhorses. Seems a bit high for hand sawing but would work for other things. https://www.canadianwoodworking.com/plansprojects/sawhorse-how-build-silent-partner?utm_source=mailpoet&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=Shopnews-2021-01-22
  8. I got to a dr appt this morning and my blood pressure was up 10 points. I am not used to driving in rush hour traffic any more. In the first expressway mile, I was driving across a mile-long 2 lane bridge. I was in the left lane passing a couple of semis. Apparently, I was not going fast enough as a redneck pickup came speeding up behind me and decided to pass me on the shoulder. It did not get much better in the next 30 miles as no matter what speed I (or anyone else) went, there was always someone who wanted to go 10 mph faster. No blinkers, usually. And we usually pass them at t
  9. That sounds a little high to me. Mine are 36, but I'm 6'5". I read somewhere that the height depends on what you are doing. The mnemonic I used to remember the rough guidelines: Hipbone high - hand tool work (planes, chisels, etc.) Navel high - power tool work (router, sander, etc.) Nipple high - detail work (inlay, carving, etc.) I know some people that make "assembly tables" much lower but I think that's for things like cabinets, casegoods, tables, etc.
  10. I found a good use for this today. I was gluing up some small beveled pieces. Clamping was not working as there was barely room and applying any pressure caused the piece to move. I put on some Q&T and did a "rubbed joint." It set up fast enough that I could just set it aside and it held. If I was thinking, I might have put a drop of CA at each end and Q&T along the middle stretch.
  11. We had Bob Behnke (the head of Titebond's tech support group) come give a glue seminar at the ww club a few years ago. He asked me to prepare some 1x2 poplar. He glued it up end-grain to end-grain and let it sit about 15 minutes. At that point he stood on it and it did not break until he jumped up and down on it. That sold me on it.
  12. Been playing accountant as I'm treasurer of the local beekeeping club. I need to file all the year ends with the state organization (and they are in a mess with a new board). Getting ready to tape sessions on how to assemble hives, frames, foundation etc. for our beginning beekeeping class. Trying to match some finish on a piano bench that the top was a mess. Stripped it. Ended up after getting three different cans of stain that weren't quite right. Put on some red dye stain, then "True Black" over the top. Looks like I hit it pretty well. Off across t
  13. kmealy

    Free wood

    Also known as bois d'arc (pronounced bow-dark, French for "bow wood") Was used to make (archery) bows. A co-worker from Kansas said it was "harder than the hubs of Hades" AKA hedge apple, horse apple, English transliterations of bois d'arc: bodark and bodock; monkey ball, monkey brains, yellow-wood and mock orange.
  • Create New...