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StaticLV2's Achievements

  1. So my files and saw set arrived today and I was able to sharpen and set the first saw on the restoration path. For what it’s worth, I don’t plan on doing that very often. The sharpening isn’t bad but the setting is a right pain in the backside. The nice thing about it is that a sharp rip saw goes through 6/4 red oak like nothing. No need to force it or use any pressure, just let the saw do it’s thing.
  2. https://brfinewoodworking.com/how-to-straighten-and-tension-a-hand-saw/ Bob probably gives the best overview of this process.
  3. So the good thing that came out of my trip to Ohio was getting to poke around and find a few antique Disston saws. Started working on the oldest of them today. This is a 26”, 7 TPI Curved-Back saw. The curve is similar to a D-8 but the blade isn’t as tall. Saw is cleaned, straightened, and tensioned. Waiting on files and a set tool to finish this up and put it back into use.
  4. My fever has now passed for 24 hours so I think I am through the worst of it. Staying hydrated, getting plenty of sleep and so far so good 1-2 more days and I think it will be over.
  5. This week nothing is planned. I came back from vacation with the Rona and the wife tested positive last night so we are currently laying about in misery until this bug runs it’s course.
  6. Well I am home from vacation and managed to pick up a raging case of the Rona along the way which is exactly not the way I wanted to spend my vacation but they say the worst of it is behind me. As promised, here is a picture of the half-moon winding sticks in use. The negative space of the half moon takes the place of the inlay.
  7. Normally with winding sticks you sight along the tops and the inlays provide the contrast. In this case, the half-moons provide the contrast. I will post some pictures when I get home from vacation about how that works.
  8. So as I move a bit more down the handtool woodworking path, there are a number of things that I am going to need to make. Today’s entry into this category is winding sticks. Made a set for me and a set for my father in law out in Ohio (because the bench took too long to build and I couldn’t get to his mallets in time) These are beech because I seem to have quite a bit of that left over, and it is nice to work with. Dimensioning, milling, and everything but sanding was done with hand tools on the new bench and I am pretty happy with the results. The half-moon style of these seem to work better for me than the inlay style but I will probably make a set of inlay style ones eventually as well.
  9. Back on topic You probably don’t want to build a top out of end grain. It is great for butcher blocks and the like but when you build a butcher block you support it fully. You would probably need to do the same with a bench-top. Also I would be concerned with pounding actions that would gradually crush /mushroom the end grain, edge grain seems to handle this type of abuse a lot better. Finally, flattening/re-flattening an end grain bench brings to mind a level of effort that I don’t personally want to contemplate. Planing that much end grain….<shudder> … and then the sanding… the humanity!!
  10. Things like this fall in the hazy grey area between craft and art. As such, production style pricing calculations like 3x or 4x material costs don’t really apply. When you have a situation like this, marketing and branding are everything. If you place it with production style items like cutting boards, people will not value it as art and will not pay well for it. If you place this with high end stained glass pieces, it will be viewed as art and you can charge a lot more for it. If you market these as hand-crafted by a local artist specializing in stained glass and explain that she does a very limited number of these per year you can charge a premium an no one will bat an eye.
  11. Spent today finishing up some details on the new bench. Added some rubberized cork. Spent the rest of the day cleaning the shop and laying out and marking all the cut list stuff for the patio furniture the wife wants. Once I had the shop clean enough to move the big ladder around, climbed up and replaced the air filters for the HVAC. That is going to have to be done on the regular I can see Other than that, I started making a list of the cabinets and furniture I am going to need in the shop and jacked up the workbench on its casters and wheeled it into what I think is going to be it’s permanent position. Been a busy day and I am beat. Tomorrow starts the new project though so I am excited about that. I suspect that this patio furniture is going to be a touch overbuilt but that is probably a good thing in the grand scheme of things.
  12. Yes both sections of the top are stationary. They are located positively with the 1” tenons on the top of the legs and have a mortise cut in the underside. They weigh enough where gravity would keep them there but they are also secured down by lag bolts that run through the cross members that run between the front and back legs. The nubs there are part of the vise assembly as they hold the mortised end cap on to the tenon cut on the end of the front section. Between those bolts and the dovetail on the front laminate this locks the end cap in place and provides the support for the tail vise. In that particular picture I was test fitting the dovetail so that strip and the next strip down (doghole strip) weren’t glued up with the rest of the front bench assembly which is why there is no gap for the dog block to slide in.
  13. And with the new bench being completed, I had to do a simple but necessary project to prove that it works. Had to make a pull saw bench hook for cross-cutting small pieces. Nothing fancy but planed flat, cut a 1” strip off both ends, left one full length and cut 2 inches off the other, then glued them in place with tightbond II and CA to hold until the other glue sets. Positioning the top bar like that is so that I can turn it around and use push saws too if I ever get a push saw It’s not fancy but it’s a nice little project to christen the workbench.
  14. So I did some testing and found something interesting. There is a product called Howard Butcher Block Conditioner, which is basically food grade mineral oil, beeswax and carnuba wax. They sell it at the orange store and I got a bottle and tested it out. I wiped some on a piece of untreated and unsanded baltic birch ply as directed, then later dripped and smeared some tightbond II on it. Drips popped off no problem and smears were able to be pulled off with fingernails easily. It does not seem to transfer appreciably to any wood that I have rubbed across it. I think this might be a solution. Has anyone else tried this or can anyone suggest a reason why it wouldn’t work?
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