I have water damage from consendation on the inside of the windows.

My spouse wants this fixed before I then seal the picture window what had considerable consendation on the outside but the two adjacent windows had none.

So I think there is an air leak that is making out outter pane colder that the others. Maybe everything is sealed but here are the pictures anyway.

The oak seat has some type of finish the pine windows were water based stained and never finished. When wiped with distilled water and the rag turned brown.

Obiously I need to strip the oak assumed to be plywood vener. I tried DNA with no results so no shellac. I tried mineral spirits and lacq thinner and they just seem to clean were the oak has finish.

How best to resolve this issue? I do have one place where oxy acid is requried but do I strip the oak and pine with citric based stripper? I only want to strip the affected areas because a total strip job is too large.

Then some help on how blend then stains so that you do not notice were old and new is.

Thanks all

We have a similar problem on a "garden window" in our dining room. That room also has a small unvented propane fireplace. In the winter, condensation occurs and stained the birch veneer on the floor of the window. I custom fitted a piece of thin birch ply over the original.

Just a quick response before I need to leave for the evening.

The fact that it's not lacquer or shellac means "refurbish" is probably not an option.

In order to use oxalic acid to remove black stains means you have to strip down to bare wood.

Color matching, well there are a few things

1) Jeff Jewitt, in one of his books, said color matching is difficult but is helped with color theory and experience

2) I met Bob Flexner once and when he found out I did touch up repairs, he was impressed and said color matching was a skill

3) You can't take in to someplace where they "color match" the stain. because you don't have a portable sample

4) I regularly used glazes to do a final color match, they are highly manipulative

5) Don't use poly on the replacement finish, it's not much UV resistant. m https://thepatriotwoodworker.com/forums/topic/24280-tgif-paint-on-a-clear-finish/#comment-176189

Not quite sure what "stained but no finish" means. Unless the original believed Minwax stains' label "Wood Finish" was true.

2 hours ago, kmealy said:

Just a quick response before I need to leave for the evening.

The fact that it's not lacquer or shellac means "refurbish" is probably not an option.

In order to use oxalic acid to remove black stains means you have to strip down to bare wood.

Color matching, well there are a few things

1) Jeff Jewitt, in one of his books, said color matching is difficult but is helped with color theory and experience

2) I met Bob Flexner once and when he found out I did touch up repairs, he was impressed and said color matching was a skill

3) You can't take in to someplace where they "color match" the stain. because you don't have a portable sample

4) I regularly used glazes to do a final color match, they are highly manipulative

5) Don't use poly on the replacement finish, it's not much UV resistant. m https://thepatriotwoodworker.com/forums/topic/24280-tgif-paint-on-a-clear-finish/#comment-176189

Not quite sure what "stained but no finish" means. Unless the original believed Minwax stains' label "Wood Finish" was true.

The pine windows where most of the damage from the condensation occured the stain just wipes off with water So I assume it was a water based stain. It wold be a very large project do redo all of it. The very white wood is where the water sat. I can start over but it will probably takes months to completely strip then Oxy acid where needed then neutraize it then wash it to get ride of the baking soda water that nutralized the Oxy acid. But oxy acid was also very good at removing all stain on my other proejct. The pine blotched badly and needs a dye underlay first. So I guess I am talking myself into stripping it all down and starting over.