We had a maple tree removed about 5 years back and had pretty much decayed, I was able to save a couple of logs. I was able to cut one open and gained enough material for a keepsake box for my granddaughter.

My question is what a good finish would be to apply and not hide the spalting? Also, I have a piece of oak I'll use for the lid with similar grain issues. I'm open for any advice. thanks.

For my turnings, I usually use an oil finish- like poly. I like the way it gives a warm look to the wood and seems to accent the grain.

BTW, that's some beautiful spalting!!!

First of all.. beautiful spalting! Wow!! I have made many boxes, etc out of Spalted maple. I have used:

1) Tung oil

2) Danish oil

3) Water based polyurethane

4) GF Gel Top Coat

5) GF Arm R Seal

6) Blonde shellac

1, 4, and 5 really pop the grain. The enhancing is gorgeous. 5 is the best. But all of these will slightly darken the appearance.

2 is good for grain appearance and lightly darken the appearance. It's kind of middle of the road. It seems to me that often woodworkers use this to play it safe when they aren't sure what finish to pick.

3 lightly enhances the grain and pretty neutral with overall appearance. It's a safe bet.

6 is what I use most now on Spalted Maple. It beautifully pops the grain and nicely enhances the overall appearance. But I have noticed if you have it in constant sun light like a piece of furniture near a window it darkens on overall appearance. But yet it still really pops and stands out.

I recommend you take a piece of the Spalted wood and make several test sample swatches. Then you can decide what works best for you.

Bob, this is less of a suggestion than to show you what I did. In the frame the wood is spalted elm, which looks a lot like spalted maple, with a cherry edging. The finish on it is Minwax Fast Dry Oil varnish with no stain. The spalting is not nearly as dramatic as what you have but can still be seen quite well through the varnish. The Fast Dry varnish is not a poly, but rather an lkyd resin; it won't yellow quite as much as a urethane formula.

4 hours ago, Fred W. Hargis Jr said:

Bob, this is less of a suggestion than to show you what I did. In the frame the wood is spalted elm, which looks a lot like spalted maple, with a cherry edging. The finish on it is Minwax Fast Dry Oil varnish with no stain. The spalting is not nearly as dramatic as what you have but can still be seen quite well through the varnish. The Fast Dry varnish is not a poly, but rather an lkyd resin; it won't yellow quite as much as a urethane formula.

There were several alkyd varnishes a few years, but I think many had vanished due to mergers and acquisitions.

Cabot 8000 (formerly McClosky's Heirloom) used to be one, but I think it's gone. And I think Sherwin-Williams Fast Dry Varnish (that might be the same as Minwax's except for the can, since S-W owns Minwax) is another. Also Pratt & Lambert #38 Varnish, that uses soya oil and not linseed oil, so results in a less amber color.

Blond shellac, for something that won't have a lot of wear and tear, will bring out a lot of the chatoyance of the grain. If you need something more protective, a dewaxed version (like SealCoat) can be top coated with most any finish.

Rule #3: When using a new product or technique, run trials on scrap.

Thanks guys for the advice, I do have some cut- offs to play with.

Brush on lacquer is the least coloring finish that I have used. Oil finishes always darken the wood. I have never tried spray lacquer but may work the same.