May 10May 10 Been working on making a cherry version of my Fit Lounge Chair. First one I made before I knew what a CNC was. For this one the CNC was used for precision location cutting of bolt holes and joinery between four stretchers and the side parts. Also to cut joinery to connect short sections of cherry to make the longer side pieces. Dry assembled today to verify that the folding geometry works as designed. Lift the front of the seat frame and the rear legs fold down against the frame. It all folds up flat for easy carry/packaging. Still to come are the canvas tensioned seat support, back strap lumbar supports, and back canvas for the cushion to lay against. All that and some sewing. 4D
May 16May 16 Author More details since the above photo.Cam Levers to pull the seat canvas tight.Cover plates for the back straps.Cover plate and slot under the front seat stretcher.All the above screw down into threaded inserts. All stretchers have two tapered tenons on each end for mating mortises in the side parts. All that is left to do besides some sanding and a finish is the canvas seat support and the canvas back support. 4D
May 18May 18 Author As the pins that slide in slots are trapped in place, I'm making one side of the frame removable. Pockets for square nuts:Holes for bolts what will draw the tapered tenons tight:I only have one bolt on hand that is long enough, so a pack of 20 more are coming from Amazon and should be here Wednesday. The wide opening of the nut pocket will be filled with cherry plugs. 4D
May 18May 18 Author 55 minutes ago, lew said:CNC sure makes the design and construction amazing!Very true. Although it took a few revisions to get my Probotix CNC tuned for furniture creation. My other tools still get some exercise when I'm building things though.
May 19May 19 Author Nut recess need plugs to cover them and make sure the nut doesn't drop out.First to find a scrap of cherry and cut around the vector that made the recess using the CNC.Second to cut the plugs free using my bandsaw.Third step to glue them into the pockets. Last step to sand them flush.Two more stretcher ends to do, but they'll wait until the screws arrive to verify the holes align with the nuts. If not I can remove the nuts and egg out the hole until I have good access for the threads to find the nuts. 4D
May 19May 19 1 hour ago, 4DThinker said:wait until the screws arrive to verify the holes align with the nutsI was wondering about the alignment.
May 19May 19 Author 1 hour ago, lew said:I was wondering about the alignment.This was an extreme case. The nuts are 1.25" from the end of the tenons. In most cases where I've done this the nuts are within 1" of the end of a tenon or board edge that I want to screw down. I clamped the stretchers vertically in my CNC and used a 3/16"d end mill to pocket 17/64" holes 3/4" deep as a starter. Then used my hand drill to deepen the holes. Cherry is relatively soft though and I could tell looking that I missed center on a few of them. Not a critical mistake fortunately. Edited May 19May 19 by 4DThinker
Tuesday at 09:24 PM4 days Author To pull the seat support canvas tight I wrap it around a 1/2" metal rod then use the cam levers to tension it drum tight. The 1/2" metal rod needed 1/4 ends to fit into the cam lever holes. I put a milling bit in the router and clamped the rod vertically in a V-block between the jaws of my bridge vise.Once both end were done I verified the fit:The chair now has 2 coats of Teak Oil on it. The back leg and front frame stretchers are glued in on the left side, and screwed down tight on the right side.The elastic lumbar straps are now installed between the front frame sides. I may have to replace the plywood that holds them in with something stiffer.Canvas is next. Putting it off as long as I can. I ordered a cushion for it from the jungle store.4D Edited Tuesday at 09:26 PM4 days by 4DThinker
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