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Found 146 results

  1. Not much else going on in the shop....thought I'd try a few ideas out. Was getting boring doing finger joints, anyway.. Laid out some more blanks, to make a box for a Stanley No. 18.. Should be enough. A little bit rough.... We have ways... Takes awhile, when you get see-through shavings..Then rounded up the Usual Suspects... Toys? Seems to fit the scale of the parts, better..pins first.. Yes, I used that toy knife. Was getting ready to trim to the baseline....then used these pins to lay out the tails.. And cut and chop them....repeat for the other corner... Then made sure the plane would still fit in the box. Other end can wait for a bit....Set up the Stanley 45 With the skinniest cutter they made for this plane....can't even use the sliding skate.... Used a pair of "holdfasts"...time to get groovy.. Both of the long sides got a groove along the top edge....and the end even got a stopped groove The "lid" was test fitted.. Needed to bevel 3 edges...once I had the width and length figured out....Stanley #110 was still being put to work...more test fits... Needed this to size the other end panel...as it will also provide a handle... Big piece will get dovetailed in place, the other will get a rebate, and glued to the lid. Bottom will get glued to the bottom of the box. May turn the lid into a Raised panel looking thing... Well, it is a start...stay tuned
  2. Ok...got to thinking Dangerous I know. Seems I have a stack of thin Pine scraps....and need to do something with them... A couple of my block planes do have a box to call home....keeps them out of mischief and a bit cleaner... But...I think I can do a little better than just a labeled cardboard box... Most of the Pine scaps are about 1/4" thick, if that......maybe connect a few into the proper sized box, including the "lid" That can slide down over the box....maybe use a sharpie to make a "label" on the end of the lid........thinking finger joints....green, or black sharpie? Will see how the bod feels today...and see how the wood "supply" looks....may have to resaw to get enough "timber" to make the boxes and lids... Stay tuned..
  3. Ok, might as well get started....this all came about because of a royal mess ( aka cluster-....) of tools piled up, and getting dusty and rusty.. yeah... So..have been going through all the tools, deciding which to keep handy, and which to stash....(cleaned up down in the Tool threads.) Picked up a few pine boards the other day... Ten 1 x 10 x 4' planks....not the best looking ones on the pallet...but, will do for a tool cabinet build... A few 1 x 4s as well. Handsome, ain't they....$45.75 counting tax.... So, today..the pick of the litter..4 planks of 1 x 10 were hauled to the shop....goal WAS to build a cabinet 3' wide, by 4' tall...WAS...until I stood one of the up, where the cabinet will go... Sitting on a 3' tall toolbench....another 4' would have been a bit too tall....design change! so that instead of 4' tall, it will be 3' tall...yet still 3' wide..needed to trim the worst ends of the 4 planks...one even split after the saw made the cut.. Not up for that much Cardio, today....besides.this is a Vintage SKIL saw... Should be enough to do this job... Once they were all trimmed down to 36", time for the jointer. . Except this Jointer was New in the box about 1905 Stanley No. 7c, type 9 needed the edges jointed for a BIG glue up....first was the start of the mess..and the cussing.. Have 4 planks to glue up, and I didn't want 2 to fly apart while adding the next one..problem was finding long enough cauls....and clamps.... Came out to 36 x 37"....glue lines will be vertical, once the glue is cured....looks like I am done, for the day. Need to decide how deep to make the box itself....a 1 x 10 may not quite do it....may glue those 1x4s to the four 1 x 10s for the box......then decide how to join the corners, and the back to the box.....making me head hurt, Imagine trying to cut the ends square on this "little" panel... Stay tuned...this might take a day..or three
  4. jimbotoc

    Cookie Jar

    This is a cookie jar I turned from a chunk of pine I purchased in Big Bear. We took a family vacation and I bought a few chunks of pine and I'm turning bowls and boxes for evry family that was there.
  5. I turned this a long time ago. A friend gave me a piece of wood he retrieved from an old train depot that was being torn down. It was over 100 years old. It looked like it had some interesting grain patterns. I cut it up to glue it and was very surprised, it still had sap in it. I doubted it was that old, but was told than the yellow pine does that?????? Anyway I think I used gorilla glue to glue it because it will set in something like that. It did come kinda nice. Still wonder about it.
  6. Hi, I’m back looking for more advice. My nephew is autistic. My SIL (sister-in-law) showed me a picture of an awards shelf from a catalog and asked me if I could make one for Nino (nephew). He is active in the Special Olympics, and has lots of medals to display. Basically simple, maybe a 3 foot long x 3/4x 16 inch back board, with 2 side brackets, and a top shelf across. 24 pegs, staggered for the medals to hang on. I can do this, My question is-I’m thinking of using pine for this, the local Lowes has some really good, no knots, pieces. I have some cherry stain left over from last years mangers I made. Any issues staining pine? Sand it down to 220, glue/assemble, stain?
  7. From the album: 18th Century Connecticut Blanket Chest

    I cut the planks down during the original stages of this project so that the knots would land in the center face of the chest. I finished the chest with boiled linseed oil followed up by Amber Shellac.
  8. I don't care how old this chest is, it's been refinished, retrofitted with non original hardware, and it has no legacy, nothing, nada. This guy is kidding right? That being said, you don't need lineage or legacy for a historical piece to be of value, furniture can be graded by other means, but this piece has no other means, not even the original finish. This chest is nearly 300 years old, pine would have a much deeper amber patina to it with that amount of time behind it. So either two things are happening here: He sanded it down before refinishing, in which case the piece is worthless. He Found a chest that is much later than originally thought in age. If you look at the darker spots where dings and nicks have formed, they are left virtually black in color, indicating the surface was completely sanded, leaving behind the darker nicks below the sanded surface. This may have been a great piece, until the refinishing took place. Then this fellow goes and adds hardware to it in the form of a chain or something to that fact. I am not a furniture historian by any means, but things just don't add up. Here is the $68,000 eBay link
  9. I have a mature pine tree around 38 to 40 inches diameter between my garden my sewer pond and one of my pond dams. I am not sure what is attacking it, but it has hundreds and hundreds of these little 3-4 inch up 6-8 inch burls growing on the branches. In the past I just considered them a pain as I was throwing 40 or 50 burled branches out of my garden each year. With my recent interest in lathe work I noticed that people specifically looking for burls for lathing due to the unique grain and pattern of the wood. I went and collected maybe 50 or 60 of these burls up from beside the garden and under the tree and hauled them to the shop thinking I might try to turn them at some point. I have been thinking about it for the last 3 days or so and I honestly find myself stymied as to how to go about doing anything with them. They aren't going to make bowls cups or vases they simply aren't big enough for such things. Not only that but I really am not sure how to go about putting them on the lathe to begin with. I am assuming that almost certainly this will be a faceplate item but still trying to work out how to go about doing that yet. I went ahead and cut one in half with the chopsaw earlier and realized by looking at the grain pattern that if want to show the unusual grain pattern I need to lathe the object perpendicular to the branch. To mount to a faceplate I thought I may be able to cut a small flat spot on the rounded burl backside to mount the burl. So far this is where I am.... Anyone have any ideas or advice?.... Let me rephrase that.. any "good" ideas or advice... lol...
  10. Meandered down to the shop this evening.....decided to at least try a few things out.....tried the Aldi's crosscut saw to make four pieces of pine parts... It do cut fast, and it even tried to cut me thumb. Got two small holes. It had hopped up out of a cut. The 1x6 I am using was a little out of....focus. Needed a plane to bring things back into line.. I planed the two matching sides together, edge grain and end grain. I wanted them to match, and be at least close to square...Plane didn't do too bad on the end grain.. Millers Falls No. 11 junior jack plane. Once all of that was done. I got out the combo square, and marked a line 1/2" in from the face of each board. Bandsaw time... Not the greatest resaw cut, but it needs a new blade...someday. Opened this one up like a book.. Well, we have ways. Grabbed the old cambered jack plane.. Going right across the grain, this isn't the time for see-through shavings. Once it was close to flat, a second plane came out... Have a bit of trouble with that old knot....but, I kept at it. Finally got the four of them close enough to work with... Will let this set a day or so. IF they want to move a bit. I can come back and mill them flat for joinery work. Igor, clean up on Aisle #1! Lower back says it be "Quitting Time!" So I guess I' meander back upstairs. Knee held up decently, lower back didn't. And, somehow, I picked up a cut on the back of my hand.....didn't feel a thing, looked down and had a leak going on. Yep, time to quit for the day. Next up? Finger joints by mallet & chisel. Stay tuned...
  11. Yesterday I walked into the shop with little time to do anything because we just had a full day, and it was late afternoon and I was really itching to do something, anything! So while LOML was getting ready for us to head out to our Anniversary dinner, I jumped out to the wood pile and just grabbed a log, any log, and cut it down to a block on my band saw. I am horrible at identifying logs based on bark, so I did not know what I was cutting into till I cut into it, as soon as the blade hit the end of the log I smelled the Pine, so that is what I had, was pine. When I originally grabbed the log, I was hoping it was some kind of hard wood, so I could cut it down and produce some Krenov style plane blanks. But it was fun anyway. Here are a couple images of how it went. I used my Grizz G0555 14" bandsaw with a 3/4" 3 TPI blade. And it cut through the 12" log with no problem. Now what do I do with this Pine squared up blank now? You got me, any ideas or suggestions?
  12. My daughter requested me to make a cartoon like owl for a very close friend who loves owls so much she even has an owl tattoo. I can't carve due to a condition in my hands, so I had to use my woodworking machines. I started with a pine block, cut the basic shape on the band saw and turned it down on the lathe. Then shaped with my spindle sander. I used a picture of a real owl for inspiration. She wanted it cartoon like, so I put spectacles and a hat on him. Hope she likes it.
  13. For my latest project building some pine cabinets for a customer of mine, he has requested that the upper cabinet has a sawtooth shelf support system. He loves the old timey look it offers, and I like it too. Sawtooth Shelf supports come in various sizes, various angles are used for aesthetics, and you are not even regulated to sawtooth configurations, you can angle the notches at virtually any angle you like. It appears the builder of the supports in this image to the left angled their notches at around 15 degrees. We angled ours at 45 degrees. So yesterday I took to laying out and cutting the sawtooth adjustable shelve supports. I did not use any specific dimensions for the layout as you'll see, I just went with what I thought would work, and offer enough strength for the heaviest of loads in my customers cabinet. In our case the upper cabinet is 41" tall with an inside height of 35 inches. So I ripped down 4 pieces of pine at 2" in width and I cross cut them on my miter saw at 36 inches in length just to allow for some custom fitting after they are made. It is very important to make sure that the entire operation is done while the 4 support blanks are grouped as one, this way you are ensured that when the supports are installed, the notches will be directly across from each other and you will not have wobbly shelves due to mis-aligned sawtooth notches. So to keep my orientation good, I bundled them together and secured them with blue tape, I then trimmed them together so we have a reference point that agrees with all the blanks. Next I laid out the notches with a simple marking square, I did not even bother with measuring as the eye will never be able to tell if one notch is a 1/6" different from the next, and since they are all ganged up together, the notches will be directly across from each other once installed in the cabinet, so they will all be off a tad equally. For this one I laid them out using the default 45 degrees available on this square, and I drew the line to what I felt was a comfortable distance about 1 1/2" long at 45 degrees. The numbers on the rule mean absolutely nothing so don't get hung up on the numbers. Flip the square for the 90 degree lines and intersect them. Continue this layout procedure all the way down the board. By the way, I marked lines across the board at 6" from the top, and 6" from the bottom, since it is highly unlikely a shelf would be placed that close to the top or bottom of the cabinet. So I started my layout at 6" from the top, and worked my way down to the bottom to the 6" mark. It only took a few minutes to get my layout lines down and ready for the table saw. I did my 45 degree cuts first, I don't know why, it just moved me to do them first for some reason. You must take care not to let the kerf of the blade float into the other layout line, or you'll have some very ugly notches. Then I set the blade at 90 degrees and commenced to cutting those lines, again, just because you have lines that are (insert dimension here) long, it does not mean you can set your blade at that height, you need to stay away from the layout line at the intersections or the points, or you'll have a very messed up looking point, we are going to clean that area up next to form a nice point. By the way I am using my factory provided table saw miter with a backer board for the above operation. A close up of the finished table saw operation will show you why I stated to stay away from the tip of the notches! If you cut to the tip, you will intersect the blade kerfs and it will cause some irreversible damage to your nice notches. Next I took the gang of 4 to the bandsaw and finished up the notches to intersect the tips of the notches nicely. I happened to have my 3/4" resaw blade on the BS so I just left it on there, and it worked out great. You'll notice the small problem I ran into, I could only finish the notches near the ends of the boards as the other end of the bundle would hit the yolk on the BS. So I could not get to the middle of the shelf supports to clean them up by the bandsaw. So to finish the cut on the notches near the center of the bundle, I took to a gents saw and a chisel and finished them up that way. I clamped the boards down to the bench for two reasons, first to secure them obviously, second, I wanted them all to be flush so when we finish up the notches by hand, they will be cut the exact same depth. Pare down to the intersecting lines after you have cut them with the saw. To finish them up and make my sawtooths look nice and clean, I ripped a 45 into a strip of pine and wrapped sand paper around it and used it like a sanding file of sorts to get right down in there and make them look nice and crisp. The last step I took is to cut the tips of the teeth off. I feel that if we did not do this, they would just get knocked off during normal use anyway (and, that is just the way they are supposed to look judging by other cabinets I researched.) Notice the grain direction in relation to the tips in the photo above, that is just asking for trouble for those points to be knocked off during use. I took the ganged up boards, back over to the table saw and I ripped a 1/4" off the teeth, leaving a net width of 1 3/4" from when we started at 2" at the beginning of our shelf support project. I only cut two boards deep at a time, since I have a 12" blade on my TS I could have done the entire stack in one pass, but I know that most woodworkers run a 10" blade on their TS and I was not sure if a 10" blade could cut 3" stack of boards in one pass so for the sake of our readers, I did it in two passes. Cut one side and flip it over, and cut the other. And now we have some nice looking sawtooth shelf supports!!! The only thing we need to do is cut 4 sticks of pine 45'd at both ends since I have two shelfs going in to the cabinet, we need two supports for each shelf. I will cut those sticks once the vertical supports are in place in the cabinet. Total time for these shelf supports were 1 hour. And we have some very strong, nice looking supports that will add an awe factor to any case project you may have.
  14. I wanted to try my new aluminum faceplate. I went to HD and found a piece of pine that had some evidence of Pine kill beetle. I've used it before and like the colors it produces. I made it the size of hole to hold/store knitting/crochet needles. I sprayed a clear finish. You can see the new faceplate still on the piece. I used a forstner drills to the required depth. I'll glue some felt on the bottom and the bottom of the hole. It's 5 inches high. I put a block of the glued up pine next to it. The Easy Wood face plate works SO MUCH better........sure glad I got it.
  15. Well I got the cabinet done. It is not fancy. The wife wanted it made out of pine and wanted it plane. It is 48 inches wide, 7 feet tall and 19 inches deep. Everything is glued and pocket screwed. It was made from 1 by 10 pine. For the trim and doors 1 by 4 pine and 1/4" plywood and 1/4" plywood for the back. I stained it with a light Maple and put two coats of poly over that. She was happy and wants two more smaller ones.
  16. I am finishing a pine project and the client likes the look of mineral oil over the pine. Then they want a satin finish poly. I am used to BLO not mineral oil. How long does it take mineral oill to cure so that it can be top coated successfully?
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