please bear with me on this.

subject===bowl from a board (economy bowl). So you will have some end grain. I picked a bowl from a board instead of a segmented bowl b/c segmented bowls are mostly side grain

object==to obtain a decent gloss finish . economically.

Material===lacquer----NOT POLY

Is there any advantage/disadvantage to using matte or semi gloss as a "base" coat(s) before applying several coats of gloss?

Both base coats & finish coats from a rattle can.

My thoughts are the matte/semi gloss will fill the end grain in the wood and build to a finish more economically (?) than using gloss for all the coats. And as a benefit probably less sanding in between coats.

Spray a couple of base coats, sanding in between where & if necessary, then finish with the appropriate amount of gloss coats to achieve the desired sheen/shine .

alternatively:

Spraying on matte/semi gloss and then wiping on a gloss finish.

Thoughts???

I'm the world's worst finisher. Hold several gold metals in messing up a turning after hours of sanding. I can NEVER lacquer to look nice, it's always looking like orange peel. That said, I can't get poly as a nice finish either☹️

Maybe @kmealy might be along to offer some advice.

FWIW. My way is to spray a moderately heavy coat of whatever I have then walk away for several hours so the finish can dry all the way, lacquer thinner is so strong that it can redisolve the finish you already sprayed so second coat is not as heavy as first, also last coat is the one that determines the sheen so that is the one you want as good as you can make it. I like to spray this coat with bowl still on the lathe and rotating as slow as I can ,50 to 100 ram is my go to speed, if you mess up you can always wash it off with thinner. Hope this helps a little and good luck 👍

Just a point..

Imperfections are easier to notice with any glossy clear coat. If your work isn't perfect and noticeable when you're done and it will bug the heck out of you then use satin.

Lacquer is hard to get a shine on without buffing. At least that is my experience.

I don't do much gloss but there is no reason to use satin and semi before gloss. Cost is about the same and those do cause a little unclear spot in the finish as far as depth is concerned. Spraying lacquer has as a main problem to be concerned about orange peel. This is caused by too little or too much spray. This takes practice. As has been said I can only get high gloss on lacquer is to buff and you must use slower speeds and a light touch. If not you will burn thru the finish. To get that smooth (no flaw) finish : lightly sand and wipe off , if any shiny spots sand more and repeat. This will form a smooth base for your gloss finish.

@Gerald---approximate time between end of spraying a coat and knocking it back with sandpaper?

24hrs? longer/shorter?

or more to the point--- length of time for a layer to "cure" before

(a) knocking it back

or

(b) buffing it out

thks

smitty

Edited May 17May 17 by smitty10101

I use rattle can lacquer a lot on my bowls, for me, I’ve had the best results with Watco brand. Before I start spraying, I will sand up to at least 400 grit, most times 600. I use satin for almost every thing. I spray several thin coats to build up the finish, allowing anywhere from 15 to 30 minutes between coats. I only sand between coats if needed ( a run or dirt etc). If I’m looking for a gloss finish I’ll use some Yorkshire grit to polish it to a smooth gloss finish . If I’m sticking with the satin look, I’ll do a quick sand with 1000 grit before the final coat, then the last coat or two I try to make it as thin as possible, when it’s wet, it might even look like it’s not fully coated.

Your mileage might vary but it works for me.

15 hours ago, smitty10101 said:

@Gerald---approximate time between end of spraying a coat and knocking it back with sandpaper?

24hrs? longer/shorter?

or more to the point--- length of time for a layer to "cure" before

(a) knocking it back

or

(b) buffing it out

thks

smitty

I would wait at least 45 minutes even tho it will be dry to touch in about 10. Like Gordon I have had best results with Watco brand , but Jimmy Clewes says it is in the nozzle. Best nozzle looks like a two piece with tube in the center.You will want the top one (blue). Remember just light sanding with 350 to 400