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Found 25 results

  1. So lately I've been dealing with wobbly pieces. Even after they are rounded they still seem to wobble. Does anybody have any ideas on how to correct this. I've never had too much of an issue with it before until the last couple of days. I can't even explain it. Note I did hold the chisel one handed how ever I barely touching it up on the piece so it wouldn't catch onto the wood and cause injury, but I placed it just enough to show the horrible wobble not sure how to correct this issue. Video should give you a better idea of what I'm dealing with.
  2. In all of my mess ups I ran out of the 3/4 by 3/4 by 5 pen blanks......ooooof. So I’m using some of the 1 by 30 cut down two a 1 by 5 and cut for the brass inserts. This is what I’m down to until I can order more prope blanks at the end of the week. So I’ve got to turn off a lot of material to get down to the correct size. Let’s just hope this one actually cooperates and works.
  3. Have you ever been working on, or polishing a piece that is supported only by the chuck and bumped it off center. I have and have been able to use the tail stock attachments to get it back to center. Provided that they will fit. However, my attachments are small, I have a mini lathe. When the piece of work is too large to fit the attachments, such as a hole in a in a piece, my attachments will fit in the hole. I made a couple of wooden Oak pieces similar to the metal ones to solve that problem. The one time I tried it out, it worked. I have NO intention using them for anything else. You
  4. I have the 3 piece carbon steel turning set that Rockler had on sale last year. They stayed sharp a long time. If one edge dulls, you turn it to a new sharp surface. They are round, square and triangular. Today I went to turn the round one and got an idea. I removed the cutter and placed it on my hand diamond sharpening tool. One side is course and the other fine. The tops and bottoms of these are perfectly flat. I placed the top (cutting edge) down and worked my way thru the course to the fine. It did a good job and I am pleased at the results. The sharpener is from Home Depot and cost u
  5. When I turn I go back and forth from a regular lathe to the Legacy and not excelling in either. This is where I started doing tea pots. Wife has been collection tea pots for a while and I thought why not add my little brainy thoughts. Just like hers, they don't do nothing but just sit there needing to be dusted......The tea pot I made her for our 50 th anniversary I accidently sold it at her yearly sale. I felt bad but money talks. So since then I made her a few more hoping she forget about it??? I don't especially like red stain but I still got lots of it from more t
  6. Research on the strings for tops didn't yield much. All I found is that the length of the string matters. It said 60" was a good length but did not specify the thickness of the string. I have a spool of nylon sash cord for blinds and started out using it. It is made of nylon and I found it may be too slippery. I got the tops working well with it after some practice but thought the kids may not have the ability or patience for that . I went looking for some type of cotton cord but didn't find anything local thick enough. I did find balls of natural cord at Hobby Lobby that looked good bu
  7. When I decided to do string tops I did a search for information on how to turn one and more importantly the dimensions for them. Surprisingly there is very little information out there but our Charles Nichols gave me the best information on how to get started. After turning a few and experimenting with different dimensions and angles here is what I found works best for me. I start off with a blank 2.5" square by 5" inches long mounted between centers. I then turn it round and size an end to fit my chuck. I also hog off the other end to an approximate 45 d
  8. Here are some more pictures of yesterdays work in the shop , besides the ones I posted in "Friday April 28 Agenda" thread. We took 253 pictures in all, so here is another fist full. Herb
  9. It take a few minutes to watch, but it is amazing the skill and engineering that went into these projects
  10. I have the first edition and Jim Tolpin has written an updated version. I did not read the whole book, just looked at the pictures . Well I did read some because I have made several jigs from the books and still use them today. The jigs and other tips are very well illustrated and information is easy to understand to build the jigs. I would recommend this for anyone from newbie to experienced woodworker. He covers everything from tuneup , blades, jigs, crosscuts ripping , accessories, and grooves and dados and much more. You can get it as low as 1.99 at Barnes and Noble or 4.99
  11. Just what the title says. My issues are: 1) I don’t know how to handle the expansion of the back, and 2) I want to hang the cabinet, so the back has to handle the weight of a bunch of iron planes. Plywood glued and screwed into a rabbit of course handles this with aplomb. But if I used solid wood, how would I build it?
  12. Guys, I want to inlay a circle base into this shape how can I route a round rabbet on the inside of this shape?
  13. I'm building a child's high chair out of maple. Going to use water based "poly". I've sanded all of the pieces thru 150. Should I raise the grain now? And if so do I spray water on the pieces or wipe them with a wet rag. In the past, I've applied the first coat of poly, which raised the grain, sanded and then applied additional coats. I thought about using a Shellac primer but wanted to keep the maple about the same color. Any tips/ideas will be greatly appreciated.
  14. So how did this get made without any tear outs and boo boo's.
  15. I needed a small box to hold my Breathe-Right strips that I wear at night, since they changed the box not to come apart in the middle any more. Grabbed some scrap wood waiting for the right project (cherry). Cut some miters, grooved along the bottom edge, bottom board with tongues all around, glue it up, had dinner, sanded, and sprayed on two coats of aerosol shellac between TV shows. About 2" tall. I used a favorite trick technique to glue up the box. Get some packing tape and lay it sticky side up next to the table saw fence. Lay down the pieces in order, as tigh
  16. When you need to putty a nail hole, the putty often smears and fills open grain around the hole. Solution: Put down some painter's masking tape and nail through the tape. Putty the hole and remove the tape. Result is the putty is just in the hole.
  17. Reading the post from Ron with his mortise and tenon joints got me to wondering. How many of us use a hollow chisel mortise versus hand chopping the joint the traditional way? I bought the Delta mortiser years ago when I built my workbench, and to the best of my feeble recollection, that is the only time I have used it. But then, I haven't done many M/T joints, either. Any thoughts?
  18. I stopped at Rockler to a few things and spotted some Inch and half by 6 inch Inace Acrylester blanks. I've never turned plastics before and have some questions. I went to youtube and watched a couple of videos and it seems to be easy. 1. If I want to turn a ball, can I predrill it and use an Oak dowel center to center? 2. If so, what kind of glue would I use to glue wood to acrylic ? 3. Are there some important do's and don'ts? 4. Does this stuff tare out? 5. Will it melt if I drill/turn too fast or slow? Thanks
  19. Are they segmented? I thought of doing segmented ornaments for a while but really didn't like the idea of cutting the little segments and gluing them together. Seemed like a lot of work. I came up with a way to do inlay which seems easier or maybe it is just because its my way. I started out with making a jig to run the pieces through the saw. There are two side pieces with a two inch spacer block between. I stuck the side pieces together and drilled a .25 inch hole 1.50 inches from the end and 1.25 inches up from the bottom. In the picture the block between the center spacer
  20. I have already posted a lot about this at the introduce yourself site, they suggested I try here. I'm trying to turn a walnut bowl it is approx 12" long and 7" wide. It won't turn true. I've tried taking faff just a tiny amount and a larger amount and it seems to remove the wood evenly but leaves one area shallower than the rest.When I try to use the 4 jaw chuck I get a large vibration. I got some good suggestions at the intro site, but thought maybe here someone else might give me the aha! to the problem. Oh yeah one other side issue. Does anyone know what diameter I need for the Grizzly
  21. I watched his video on turning stumps. It is interesting, but long. During the smoothing said that he was going to scrap it smooth. He proceeded to use what looked like flat scrapping tool. Can someone tell me how this works, does it do a good job smoothing? (If you watch the video, you will find that you will skip ahead}
  22. And I got a day more to go. The things I do.Well point is I bloody well didn't want to buy 2" diameter dowels but I needed 'em, For most of the day it was not going as well as I'd hoped. I was getting a horrible surface finish - - all choppy. I was getting inconsistency of about 0.020" from end to end but I dialed that in to about 0.010" error I'm using a router on a lathe. On my lathe I built a very stout rig from 1.125" maple that supports a wide board about the same thickness above the drive and and tail stock center much like the guy has in this video
  23. Thanks for the advise on turning blue stripes. Lew, I did return to the skew and did so more carefully. I did get much better results. Acceptable results, but not great. Probably as good as I'll get. I'm still playing around, so who knows!
  24. I tried turning some of the striped wood with the stripes and it came out good. Then I tried some against the stripes and it didn't work so well. The darker colors would bleed the dust into the lighter colors. I tried turning it as smooth as I could without sanding and it helped somewhat Any ideas on how to minimize this bleeding?
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