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Found 23 results

  1. I have the first edition and Jim Tolpin has written an updated version. I did not read the whole book, just looked at the pictures . Well I did read some because I have made several jigs from the books and still use them today. The jigs and other tips are very well illustrated and information is easy to understand to build the jigs. I would recommend this for anyone from newbie to experienced woodworker. He covers everything from tuneup , blades, jigs, crosscuts ripping , accessories, and grooves and dados and much more. You can get it as low as 1.99 at Barnes and Noble or 4.99 at Thrift Books. I have on my saw the magic fence pictured below. it can be added to for tenon jig that can do more than tenon.
  2. Just what the title says. My issues are: 1) I don’t know how to handle the expansion of the back, and 2) I want to hang the cabinet, so the back has to handle the weight of a bunch of iron planes. Plywood glued and screwed into a rabbit of course handles this with aplomb. But if I used solid wood, how would I build it?
  3. Guys, I want to inlay a circle base into this shape how can I route a round rabbet on the inside of this shape?
  4. It take a few minutes to watch, but it is amazing the skill and engineering that went into these projects
  5. I'm building a child's high chair out of maple. Going to use water based "poly". I've sanded all of the pieces thru 150. Should I raise the grain now? And if so do I spray water on the pieces or wipe them with a wet rag. In the past, I've applied the first coat of poly, which raised the grain, sanded and then applied additional coats. I thought about using a Shellac primer but wanted to keep the maple about the same color. Any tips/ideas will be greatly appreciated.
  6. So how did this get made without any tear outs and boo boo's.
  7. I needed a small box to hold my Breathe-Right strips that I wear at night, since they changed the box not to come apart in the middle any more. Grabbed some scrap wood waiting for the right project (cherry). Cut some miters, grooved along the bottom edge, bottom board with tongues all around, glue it up, had dinner, sanded, and sprayed on two coats of aerosol shellac between TV shows. About 2" tall. I used a favorite trick technique to glue up the box. Get some packing tape and lay it sticky side up next to the table saw fence. Lay down the pieces in order, as tight as you can get them and flush to the fence. Add some Titebond No-Drip, No-Run glue to the joints, rolled it up, checked for square.
  8. When you need to putty a nail hole, the putty often smears and fills open grain around the hole. Solution: Put down some painter's masking tape and nail through the tape. Putty the hole and remove the tape. Result is the putty is just in the hole.
  9. Here are some more pictures of yesterdays work in the shop , besides the ones I posted in "Friday April 28 Agenda" thread. We took 253 pictures in all, so here is another fist full. Herb
  10. Reading the post from Ron with his mortise and tenon joints got me to wondering. How many of us use a hollow chisel mortise versus hand chopping the joint the traditional way? I bought the Delta mortiser years ago when I built my workbench, and to the best of my feeble recollection, that is the only time I have used it. But then, I haven't done many M/T joints, either. Any thoughts?
  11. I stopped at Rockler to a few things and spotted some Inch and half by 6 inch Inace Acrylester blanks. I've never turned plastics before and have some questions. I went to youtube and watched a couple of videos and it seems to be easy. 1. If I want to turn a ball, can I predrill it and use an Oak dowel center to center? 2. If so, what kind of glue would I use to glue wood to acrylic ? 3. Are there some important do's and don'ts? 4. Does this stuff tare out? 5. Will it melt if I drill/turn too fast or slow? Thanks
  12. Research on the strings for tops didn't yield much. All I found is that the length of the string matters. It said 60" was a good length but did not specify the thickness of the string. I have a spool of nylon sash cord for blinds and started out using it. It is made of nylon and I found it may be too slippery. I got the tops working well with it after some practice but thought the kids may not have the ability or patience for that . I went looking for some type of cotton cord but didn't find anything local thick enough. I did find balls of natural cord at Hobby Lobby that looked good but not thick enough either. I bought it anyway with the thought I may be able to spin two strands together using the same technique I used for the Yo-Yos. Gave it a shot and it worked well with a cord .140" thick. The sash cord was .100 inches thick. After the first cord was made I knew I had a winner. The tops worked easier and I attribute that not only to the thicker cord but to the fact that the cord ended up closer to the outside diameter of the top which theoretically would get the top spinning easier right off the bat when thrown. So here is how I made them. I cut a 152" length of the cord shown and tied a knot in each end. The cord is three strands and I took large paper clips and hooked a strand on each end. I hooked one end on a stationary hook and the other end on a hook inserted in my drill. I twisted the cord running the drill in forward/clockwise motion until the length shortened up 24". While spinning it with the drill I kept moderate pressure on it holding back on the drill enough to keep the slack and whip out of the cord. Once it is 24" shorter there is plenty of twist and will knot up with the speed of light if constant tension is not held on it. Now the drill end has to be removed from the drill and put on the stationary hook with the other end. The drill hook has to be holding the half way mark as you do this. My arms are long enough that I could hook the string with the drill and move the end without it knotting. It would have been easier with a second person but I found it doable. Now that the cord is hooked halfway the drill has to be switched into reverse and spun in a counterclockwise direction. For some reason the cord gets longer as it is reverse spun and after spinning it for a while it will start to shorten up again. When this happens the top string is done. Put a knot big enough in one end to catch the string when winding and a finger loop or a button for the back of the fingers which ever you prefer. Oddly enough the string wound the way it is pictured above at the suggested 60" and the tops spin well. How about two at a time?
  13. When I decided to do string tops I did a search for information on how to turn one and more importantly the dimensions for them. Surprisingly there is very little information out there but our Charles Nichols gave me the best information on how to get started. After turning a few and experimenting with different dimensions and angles here is what I found works best for me. I start off with a blank 2.5" square by 5" inches long mounted between centers. I then turn it round and size an end to fit my chuck. I also hog off the other end to an approximate 45 degrees while the support is there. I get it mounted in the chuck and turn it true again and take it to a final diameter of 2.25 inches. I also set the banjo perpendicular to the ways and adjust the tool rest to 45 degrees which is the angle I find works best for the bottom. I then true up the bottom to the 45 degrees and prepare the end to drill for the tip. I started out by making tips on my metal lathe and found it was a waste of time. I don't know why but a sharp point on the tip makes it spin a while longer but the top will not stand straight up with it. I found that a ball shaped tip works best to get the top to stand straight up. So for the tip a 1" piece of .25" brass rod is all you need. So now is the time to drill a .25" hole .75" deep for the tip. I take the tips and put them in a drill chuck and roughly round them over. Now take the tip and glue it into the hole making sure it is firmly seated to the bottom of the hole and measure off the overall length of the top and mark off a line. Overall length is 2.75" for the wood body. Do not include the brass tip in this measurement. I leave the tool rest set to the 45 degree angle because it is now time to work the tip end again. Turn the end again to get a smooth transition to the tip and then work on the lower string catch turning away at the 45 degrees and stopping at the catch. At this same time go to your length line and make the upper string catch. Take the parting tool and make a .25" slot on the tip side of the line taking it down to a 1.375" diameter remaining. Measure and mark the middle of the remaining total diameter. Round it over from the center line. Sand it and add some burn lines or maybe some other visual decoration. Now is time to finish shaping the tip. If your hole wasn't exactly on center this step will cure that. I take a skew chisel laid horizontal on the tool rest to finish shaping the brass tip. I do it at sanding speed or a little less and shape the tip end round like a ball bearing. Sand it to 320 grit and polish it with fine steel wool. When done the tip will be perfectly centered. Take it nice and easy. If you get a catch it is possible for the whole top to go off center. BTDT. It is now time to part it off and take it for a spin.
  14. When I turn I go back and forth from a regular lathe to the Legacy and not excelling in either. This is where I started doing tea pots. Wife has been collection tea pots for a while and I thought why not add my little brainy thoughts. Just like hers, they don't do nothing but just sit there needing to be dusted......The tea pot I made her for our 50 th anniversary I accidently sold it at her yearly sale. I felt bad but money talks. So since then I made her a few more hoping she forget about it??? I don't especially like red stain but I still got lots of it from more than 50 years ago and need to use up. A few drops of this stuff goes a long ways. Some of the bottles the lids were not on real tight and in all those years the liquid has turned to dust.
  15. Are they segmented? I thought of doing segmented ornaments for a while but really didn't like the idea of cutting the little segments and gluing them together. Seemed like a lot of work. I came up with a way to do inlay which seems easier or maybe it is just because its my way. I started out with making a jig to run the pieces through the saw. There are two side pieces with a two inch spacer block between. I stuck the side pieces together and drilled a .25 inch hole 1.50 inches from the end and 1.25 inches up from the bottom. In the picture the block between the center spacer block and the bolt was to ensure accuracy while gluing and was removed once glue was dry. It is 1.50 inches square. I drew lines down from the hole to help align the jig with the slot in the cross cut sled. The bolt is a carriage bolt with the head ground down to a .50 inch diameter. It is set in a counter sunk hole so the jig sits flush with the sled fence I took a 2.50 inch square piece of plexiglass, found center drilled and threaded it for a .25-20 thread. When threading holes in smaller pieces like this I chuck up the tap and bring the quill down and lock it from going back up. I put a rod through the slot where the wedge can be driven in to remove the chuck and tapered shaft to keep it from spinning. I then use the table crank to raise the piece up to the tap and turn the piece while I am raising it to start the tap. I have a screw center with .25-20 thread so I put it in the lathe and screwed the plexiglass to it. I set the tool rest at center and used the indexing feature to scratch marks into it at 60 degree increments. I cut blocks to use and drilled the centers. I mounted them to the lathe and turned them round. I then screwed them to the plexiglass base and marked the indexes. The stock can be the full two inches of the jig of smaller and add spacer to take up space. I put a mark on the jig to line up each index mark but put it off to the side or the marks get cut off when run through the saw. I did end up cutting the nut side of the jig to 3/8 thick to give it some flex and hold the cylinder tight as it goes through the saw. Here is a completed cylinder. Then cut some inlay to fit the saw slots and glue them in. Mount them and turn them whatever shape you desire. Make some finials for them and there they are. Some of you may have seen this. This is in the tutorial section at William Young's Woodworking Friends site and I had posted it at Wood too. I copied and pasted it here for those who missed it to see.
  16. I have already posted a lot about this at the introduce yourself site, they suggested I try here. I'm trying to turn a walnut bowl it is approx 12" long and 7" wide. It won't turn true. I've tried taking faff just a tiny amount and a larger amount and it seems to remove the wood evenly but leaves one area shallower than the rest.When I try to use the 4 jaw chuck I get a large vibration. I got some good suggestions at the intro site, but thought maybe here someone else might give me the aha! to the problem. Oh yeah one other side issue. Does anyone know what diameter I need for the Grizzly Go584 tailstock handle.( when I go to Grizzly it won't pull this model up).I want to try and get a metal handle. My plastic one has broken down to just the plastic piece over the piece of metal it connects to. There seems to be a set screw, but it won't accept any allen wrenches and i would swear it isn't stripped but is flat. Strange. Right now I'm using a pr of vise grips as a handle. I'll have to crack it to get it off. I guess i could measure the rod it attaches to after it breaks off
  17. Ron Altier

    Scrapper

    I watched his video on turning stumps. It is interesting, but long. During the smoothing said that he was going to scrap it smooth. He proceeded to use what looked like flat scrapping tool. Can someone tell me how this works, does it do a good job smoothing? (If you watch the video, you will find that you will skip ahead}
  18. And I got a day more to go. The things I do.Well point is I bloody well didn't want to buy 2" diameter dowels but I needed 'em, For most of the day it was not going as well as I'd hoped. I was getting a horrible surface finish - - all choppy. I was getting inconsistency of about 0.020" from end to end but I dialed that in to about 0.010" error I'm using a router on a lathe. On my lathe I built a very stout rig from 1.125" maple that supports a wide board about the same thickness above the drive and and tail stock center much like the guy has in this video only doing it in the lathe better because it's on bearings and I can adjust the height and location of the board. But my router cutter is not giving me a nice finish it's all choppy. I built two different slow speed rigs one gave me about 60 RPM and the other 20 and neither improved the result. They let me product a finer finish but there were other problems. The slow speed produced a very coarse threaded-like surface unless I moved the router at the speed of a clock's hour hand. I had been in the middle to lower range of lathe speeds before so I decided to crank it to ELEVEN and see what transpired.. Success~!! A pretty good surface that a little 80 grit paper was able to fettle up nice as a baby's bum. I got to make three of these dowels They are going to be split down the middle and put in the planer on a jig just for them then glued back together to produce a shape ( seen from the end) like this: That is the inside part of a tripod leg. My lathe is a little Walker Turner Driver line. The motor that came with was the original. I couldn't stand it because it was weak, so I replaced that with a 1HP 1750 Baldor. Now nothing stops it. It's a sweet little lathe, but I yen for bigger & badder.
  19. Thanks for the advise on turning blue stripes. Lew, I did return to the skew and did so more carefully. I did get much better results. Acceptable results, but not great. Probably as good as I'll get. I'm still playing around, so who knows!
  20. I tried turning some of the striped wood with the stripes and it came out good. Then I tried some against the stripes and it didn't work so well. The darker colors would bleed the dust into the lighter colors. I tried turning it as smooth as I could without sanding and it helped somewhat Any ideas on how to minimize this bleeding?
  21. I have the 3 piece carbon steel turning set that Rockler had on sale last year. They stayed sharp a long time. If one edge dulls, you turn it to a new sharp surface. They are round, square and triangular. Today I went to turn the round one and got an idea. I removed the cutter and placed it on my hand diamond sharpening tool. One side is course and the other fine. The tops and bottoms of these are perfectly flat. I placed the top (cutting edge) down and worked my way thru the course to the fine. It did a good job and I am pleased at the results. The sharpener is from Home Depot and cost under $20
  22. Have you ever been working on, or polishing a piece that is supported only by the chuck and bumped it off center. I have and have been able to use the tail stock attachments to get it back to center. Provided that they will fit. However, my attachments are small, I have a mini lathe. When the piece of work is too large to fit the attachments, such as a hole in a in a piece, my attachments will fit in the hole. I made a couple of wooden Oak pieces similar to the metal ones to solve that problem. The one time I tried it out, it worked. I have NO intention using them for anything else. You can see the metal ones that go in the tail stock with bearings and the larger ones I made. Any thoughts?
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