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Found 218 results

  1. In all of my mess ups I ran out of the 3/4 by 3/4 by 5 pen blanks......ooooof. So I’m using some of the 1 by 30 cut down two a 1 by 5 and cut for the brass inserts. This is what I’m down to until I can order more prope blanks at the end of the week. So I’ve got to turn off a lot of material to get down to the correct size. Let’s just hope this one actually cooperates and works.
  2. A friend is moving and gave me 2 boards. They were 5'X16". They had been in her basement for a few years and had warped and cupped slightly. I cut them down the middle and clamped them straight and let them sit about 10 days. They look good. However I can't ID the wood. It appears to be soft wood and is about half the weight of Oak the same size. Maybe it is an imported wood or just some simple native wood that I don't know about. Gotta guess?
  3. We had some 70 mph winds with higher gusts. It blew down a neighbors rotten Aspen tree. It snapped at its base and came over on my side of the fence. Add my other neighbor's weeping willow and I had one heck of a mess. My wife helped with the small stuff and I worked most of 2 days cleaning up the mess. I don't know who was responsible to clean up or pay for it, I think it can vary from state to state. I know in OH, if a neighbors fruit tree grows over the fence you are entitled to all the fruit on it and you can trim it back to the property line. We got it cleaned up and a friend took most of the burnable wood for camping. To be VERY honest, with all this self isolation, it felt good to do a good days work.
  4. I have spalted Maple left from an old project and decided to turn an ornament out of it. It was VERY unstable in some places and my plans changed as I turned. I ended up with the shape you see and I used the ultraviolet cured clear finish. I used it Mainly because the wood was so poreus and extremely dry. As I took it out to the sunlight to harden, I got a bonus. It hardened quickly and I didn't notice till later that the finish had started to drip. If you look at the very bottom you will see what looks like a fine, clear point. It looks as tho I planned it, If I planned it, the result would not look anywhere near that good. This finish isn't my favorite, but it did the job with this spalted piece.
  5. So saw a post on how wood sizes have changed over years. Was this strictly about money on. Companies behalf or was there more to it. Example why a 2x4 is not a 2x4.
  6. I have this great piece of Sepele that has a slight twist in it. I want to, some how, get rid of this twist. It seems to me that if I just put it through the planer that the twist will not be straightened out. Need help in trying to solve it. Anyone?
  7. Today was actually a nice day in the shop. I had time to sit down with my CNC and vCarve Desktop to work on some 1911 grips. I’ve been using my Remington R1 as my test fit piece. These were cut cut but I did t get them sanded and a finish put on them today. I guess I can work on that tomorrow afternoon. mahogany on the top, Purple Heart and Leopard wood on the right. These are all cut from G10 material. Slate color G10 cut with a checking pattern A nice fit on my 1911. Slate G10 Stripes with Mag release cut out. Red and Black G10 with Dots. I sanded this with micro sanding paper then buffed it on my 3 wheel buffer. Nice look. Each set gives the 1911 a total different look. I’ve got to get a few more cut tomorrow. It’s back to work at the Gun Store Monday.
  8. After over 30 years I think I figured out that the table saw isn't the heart of the shop...thought it was but I think a good compressor is. Of all the tools the one that I'm always wishing I had invested in more was the compressor.. spraying, sanding, mechanics tools,etc.... Maybe I was wrong...
  9. A small mom and pop shop selling general woodworking supplies and tools.
  10. From the album: Spoon Carving

    The knife is a hook knife, great for carving out scoops and the bowl of a spoon. I read much about the use of these knives, and how to carve the Swedish Slojd method, it takes some getting used too, but the methods are very efficient and accurate. This hook knife is made by Morakniv, a tradition in Sweden, and the cost of the knives are very affordable. Here is a link to a series of videos by Morakniv and legend Jogge Sundqvuist on use and maintenance. The whole series can be found here at Swedish Knife Grip Lessons with Jogge Sundqvuist
  11. From the album: Spoon Carving

    My spoon is roughed out as far as I can go, now I will wrap it in cloth and let it slowly dry for a couple weeks, then refine the lines and facets.
  12. From the album: Spoon Carving

    I am attempting another spoon carving, I trimmed a Chinaberry tree a couple weeks ago and the long straight branches are ideal for green woodworking. I took my hatchet and roughed the blank out, then started shaping.
  13. Or, "Hide yer eyes, Mabel!" Added yesterday's haul to the 2 planks on hand.. There is 8 boards sitting there, average size...4/4 x 6" x 54". End grain? Has some fancy-schmancy grain, too... Might be entertaining to use? Counting the 2 boards I already had....about..$15 sitting here. Might last a while? May see how some match up, maybe a book-match? Stay tuned.
  14. I got my wood today and am anxious to use it. These are 11" x 1.5", & cost $10 each. I plan to turn some Christmas ornaments and maybe some handles I am very curious to see how they turn
  15. I have an idea that will involve turning acrylic glued to wood. What glue would you use to glue the two together?
  16. Last year I bought a couple of turning blocks from Rockler. They were not large and were coated in a good coat of wax. It was an experiment for me. I wanted a source of exotic wood in my area. I didn't get around to using them for a few months and when I did, I was surprised and disappointed. The wood was wet inside that wax. That irritated me, I was sure it should be dry and ready to use. Yesterday I returned to Rockler, because of my wife. She wanted to go to Joann's material store and it is across the street from Rockler. I was the only customer and got great service. I didn't complain about the block I had gotten, but asked how to properly use those waxed blocks. He said " Remove the wax and place in a paper bag. Then after 30 days it should be OK to use." It has to have time to dry out evenly. I sure wish someone had said that before or at least some instructions on the wood. As we were talking he noticed my Viet Nam vet pin on my hat and we had a conversation about things. He too, had some bad memories and we immediately knew the brotherhood. As I checked out, I asked if Rockler had a veterans discount, He said, "Brother, today we do"
  17. I thought I would share this pic with you and you can give me some guidance how to store wood for turning. This is persimmon given to me by a friend. I cut it into 14" lengths as I decided to make rolling pins from it. It grew to about 3" diameter with bark and all. Where I trimmed off branches, I painted all cut and exposed surfaces with latex paint. I left it near the house so that it would not get rained on and could dry slowly in the local humidity. Sadly, some little bug like a borer got into this wood. After removing the bark and truing it, I turned this with a skew. This is not sanded, but the dark area is fresh mineral oil. I find this as beautiful wood. The crack is what stopped me. If I don't find something else to do with this, you can see from the picture where it is going. Thanks for looking. Steve, the old FlGatorwood
  18. It sure isn't wood and it sure turns differently. It sheds streamers of plastic all over you, tools and the tuning head. I had to stop and clean the place up several times. I didn't want those strips of plastic on my lights for fear of fire. I didn't want them in places around turning shafts, etc. I enjoyed it, especially the final polishing. It surprised me in how it came out like glass so quickly. I learned a lot and plan on doing more. The biggest problem I had was the wood, it splintered and tore out very easily. I wanted to make it thinner and more unique, but stopped because of the unstable wood (Padiuk)
  19. Here are some pictures of my deep hollowing set up. I have about 22" reach with it. It's built around an inch and one quarter diameter bar. The bar is 4140 prehard steel. That should be stiff enough to reach out about 20" or so. I have about 22" of reach from the cutting tip to the torque arrestor that is welded to the round bar. There is a threaded stud in the front corner for attaching the laser pointer post. This picture shows the threaded stud a little better. The trap that holds the boring bar is made from two 1" diameter black iron pipes. The top pipe is adjustable so the trap can accept larger or smaller diameter boring bars. Eventually I may add a 1 1/2" bar but I have no immediate plans to do so. If/when I do it will be a simple matter to use the same trap for either bar by loosening one bolt on either end and repositioning. This is the "business end" of the hollower. The boring bar came from Grizzly as a set of five double ended bars. In addition to the angle slot the other end has a straight slot. I have both a 3/4" set and a 1" set of bars. The order from Grizzly also included 1/2" 3/8" and 1/4" boring bars. I could see no use to keep those so I gave them to my brother to use in his shop. This is just a view from the tail stock end of the lathe. I figure I have probably less than $150.00 in this rig. For one this heavy duty, retail would be in the $500.00 range. With that said, I don't believe the retail ones are over priced at all. It's easy to look at material cost only and think they are charging too much for something like this. In addition to my material cost there are several hours of machining that went into making this. My brother is no slouch at metal work. His normal shop rate would've pushed the cost of this well over what I would pay retail. Add to that, the cost of welding and there is no way it could be done for less. I'm blessed to have had someone to help me for hanging out together and a bowl or two. Several times I showed my brother how others had made theirs. Always his response, well we're going to do it better than that. As an example, the trap on others I've seen simply used machine bolts and a bunch of nuts to make the assembly. Adjusting the size would involve tedious loosening and tightening several nuts. Either that or they were welded to fit one size only. It will be a couple weeks before I get to try my hand at a deep vessel. I still have to make my steady rest and laser assembly. When I do get it all together you've got to know, I'll post pics!! Steve
  20. Easy Wood Tools currently uses Hickory for our PRO size Lathe Chisels. I personally don't love this choice.... pic of this tool is attached. I would rather use either cherry or walnut, just for the beauty factor. We use maple for all other tools (+stain), but I think the cherry or walnut would look nicer than the hickory for this product. So the poll question is: Which domestic hardwood do you think would be best for a full sized (20" handle)? 1) Hickory 2) Cherry 3) Walnut 4) Maple 5) Other (please specify) Thanks! Jim
  21. Finally got to try a deep hollow form, not real deep, about 13". First time I've tried something like this and there is lots to learn. The laser diode I was using wasn't the best choice and it wouldn't stay in one spot. Because of that and my own inexperience this piece is just too thin in a couple areas. It won't get much sanding because there is a very real possibility of sanding through. Still, for a first effort, I've got to be happy with the results. I also know there is a lot of room for improvement, especially in the form and getting a consistent thickness. Anyway, here is my first effort and a short video of the hollowing process. The base could be a little smaller and the funnel could also be smaller I think. I was surprised how difficult the big cove was to do and I can see there is room for improvement there as well. Wife says she loves it and I have to finish it but you know how they are. Thanks for looking Steve
  22. I've got a beautiful piece of walnut on the lathe, trying to do a hollow form about 14" deep and about the same major diameter. Drilling to start hollowing this morning and when I backed out to clear chips this is what I saw. No drill bit, this is a bad thing. At this point I'm over 10" deep with this bit. Fortunately I was drilling in steps and had made a good portion of the hole larger already. What now? Couldn't reach it with anything and there are chips packed tight around it. My first thought was, no way to save this. Still, I started picking at the shavings and blowing them out until they were pretty well clear, that took about an hour. After several failed attempts with rare earth magnets, screw drivers, etc. etc. I got the idea to make a loop in a piece of tie wire and slip it over the shaft. Held the wire with a pair of vice grips and ran the lathe slow. With a little help, the wire wound tight enough I could wiggle the drill bit a little using the wire and a screw driver. After about two hours I was able to get a purchase on the bit with a pair of deep reach needle nose and worked it the rest of way out. Next time, I'll be sure to clear chips more often and make doubly sure the set screws in my extension are tight. I think it will be faster that way. Steve
  23. These pieces are from 2014 or so. They may have been posted on the old Wood forum but don't really remember anymore. Anyway, I had this idea, made a few pieces and then just never got back to develop it further. A few days ago I saw someone post a similar turning on facebook so I thought I'd share the ones I did. These all incorporate rare earth magnets to create the illusion of a piece floating. This was my first attempt, a floating ball. I didn't do a real good job of hiding where the magnet is in the ring but in the globe the joint is nearly invisible. The ring in a ring is the second one I did. This one works two ways, the small ring will sit in the large ring or hang from the top. There are four magnets in all, two in each ring. This is first "hot air" balloon I did. When I first made it, the magnet in the balloon was glued in place and all a person had to do was position it near the ring and it would stay. The grand kids loved these and played with enough the magnet jarred loose and just rattles around inside the balloon. My first thought was to make a new balloon but after watching people try to get it to float and not being able to I like it better this way This is the last one I did, it was my first venture into piercing with a dental hand piece. There are four magnets in this one, one in the ring, two in the balloon, and one in the basket.
  24. I've got the demo for February for our club. Can't complain, several other members have really stepped up and covered the last few months. That makes it so much easier. Anyway, the Feb. demo will be two parts. The first half hour or so I'll be doing some sharpening on, and talking about the Tormek sharpener. I've allotted a half hour but if there are a few questions it could go longer. With that in mind I need a relatively quick project for the turning portion of the demo. Have decided to make a "Knitting Nancy" or French Knitter. A simple spindle project which will be a good skill builder and something I believe hasn't been done before. Even though it's a fairly simple thing to make I will still make several before I'm done. At the top beside the yarn is my first effort. I saw one that looked like they used paper clips to hold the yarn but that didn't work well for me, that and I had the diameter too large to make a good stitch. I saw one someone made that used cotter keys as shown in the walnut one to the left. Cotter keys actually worked pretty well, but, they're cotter keys. I then decided to just make the pins to hold the yarn and they are pretty easy to do and look a lot better IMO. The one in the middle is my last effort and has the wooden pins. The little yarn rope is what a person makes with one of these and is called an "Icord", although, our two year old grand daughter calls it a "snake". From what I read, an icord is a basic knitting or crochet stitch and is used as a border or foundation for other stitches. There are three parts to one of these, the body, which is basically just a tube, the pins, and the hook, or pic. My first thought was to make a hook but after experimenting a little bit I realized the pic type actually is easier to use. The pic is a nice little skew project all by itself. Will probably do five or six more of these, last couple I will record and work out of my tool bags to make sure I don't forget anything. Steve
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