I'm starting a new bowl, the largest I've ever tried (of the 4 I've tried in the past). This one is walnut, about 10"- across and a little over 5" tall (rough cut). BTW, in cutting that piece of firewood round yesterday, I made the famous mistake of getting it jammed in my bandsaw, but that's a question for another post. Anway, I was trying to make the blank round this morning, and I wasn't sure how to present the gouge to the wood. I wound up doing it (mostly) with the flute straight up. and sometimes I laid the gouge on it's side cutting with the upper edge. I got it mostly round now, but what would have been the correct way to present the gouge. BTW, I watched a couple of U tube videos yesterday and in both cases they talked very little about tool presentation....it was more about getting the bowl cut as quickly as possible. One was Richard Raffen, I probably won't watch any more of his stuff.

 

Forgot to mention, this blank is full of cracks....so it may just turn out to be a disaster.

Edited October 8, 20214 yr by Fred W. Hargis Jr

Tim Yoder is good about showing tool presentation in his videos.

 

 

To start the rounding process, flute up is fine. You should also have the gouge pointed slightly upward (handle end lower than the sharp end). Depending on the shape of the end grind, you may have to rotate the flute a little from vertical. Experiment to find the sweet spot for the best cut.

 

Were you using a roughing gouge or bowl gouge to start the rounding process?

Edited October 8, 20214 yr by lew

It was a bowl gouge, somewhere I had caught a blurb about never use a roughing gouge on a bowl blank.

3 minutes ago, Fred W. Hargis Jr said:

It was a bowl gouge, somewhere I had caught a blurb about never use a roughing gouge on a bowl blank.

Good! You done it right!! Somewhere I remember seeing a video showing just what you asked. Still trying to find it. Post it here when I do.

This isn't the one I was thinking of, but it does show some of what you asked. Start about 3 minutes 30 seconds. The presenter is using a finger nail grind and has the flute opening rotated to one side (depending on the direction of the cut) you can also see that he is "riding the bevel" as he makes the cuts.

 

 

 

Here's another one a little shorter but some good views of the tool presentation-

 

 

This was a live Q & A/demonstration from Mike Waldt. It is long. Lots of information.

 

 

From Lyle Jamieson, notice the slightly different shape of the grind on the gouge. 

 

 

 

Personal note here: Find a grind/shape that you like and learn to use it. Depending on what you turn (bowls, vessels, etc.) you probably will only need one setup.

I once asked Rebecca DeGroot (via a text chat) what speed and grind did she use to turn her beautiful finials. She said she didn't know what the angle of grind was, she just shapes to what works for her. As for speed RPM's- she said she doesn't pay attention to it but "it is fast". The point being- don't get hung up on exact numbers. If it works for you, it is the right setup.

Thanks Lew and Dan. I'm not much on watching video on a computer, but I'll give all of these a peruse later today.

I agree, @Fred W. Hargis Jr, sometime watching the videos you spend 20 minutes for 10 seconds of information. When I started tuning, access to information on the "Internet" was by a 300 baud dialup modem. Videos were not an option. Even digital instruction was limited- there was still the VHS/Beta wars.

 

There were no clubs around so I bought a book by Ernie Conover and started in. In the beginning, I got lots and lots of practice using my Navy vocabulary as well as some I learned working as a carpenter. Mr. Conover's book was a great help but sometimes lacked the exact details need. For example, it is extremely difficult to describe, in words, how to "ride the bevel" or hold the gouge for a shear cut.

 

Videos, from an experienced instructor, can help thru those weak spots. @Gerald and @Steve Krumanaker often point out that purchasing a DVD from an experienced instructor is an invaluable resource and turning reference.

 

Lastly, be cautious of videos, Abraham Lincoln once said- "You can't believe everything you see on the Internet"   Many posters have less experience than you. The videos that @HandyDan and I have referenced are from people who are recognized as knowledgeable, by the turning community.

You've already been given excellent advice and mostly I'd just like to reinforce what's already been said. For a free video, Lyle Jamieson's is as good you can get. I'd recommend watching his whole series, and then watching it again. If you do decide to invest in a DVD or video download I would recommend Glenn Lucas for bowl turning. Glenn, IMO, is the best pure technician turning today when it comes to a bowl gouge and using a wood lathe is more about technique than any other form of wood working I think. Glenn also happens to be an excellent teacher.

One problem with this is most demos stars with a round blank so Lyle using a half log is unusual , not the I recommend it but have done it. My method is something I learned from Grumbine video. Start roughing from near center of blank. We are making a round bowl so why get beat up with cutting all that air. I usually float the bevel and flute is closed ( pointed to 9 ) . This is a pull cut and  will be fairly smooth once you get past the odd shape if the log. 
 

Another thing to watch is Stuart Batty as his videos are short and very instructive about grain and tool angles. 

Late to the party but here is another one.....

 

.40

 

Have to disagree with video. Pull cut is toward the body and is promoted by Stuart Batty for outside bowls and platters. While Clewes promotes more push cut but uses both. 

17 hours ago, Gerald said:

Grumbine

I see he passed away in July.

4 hours ago, Gerald said:

Have to disagree with video. Pull cut is toward the body and is promoted by Stuart Batty for outside bowls and platters. While Clewes promotes more push cut but uses both. 

 

First off, I didn't watch the video. With that, I was taught that with a pull cut the handle is leading the cutting edge. A planing cut on a spindle with a fingernail gouge is  basically a pull cut but it is neither toward, nor away from the body. A push cut, the cutting edge is leading the handle and the bevel directs the cut.

Edited October 9, 20214 yr by Steve Krumanaker

This is just so you guys know I'm not ignoring the advice I get here. This is the minor shaping I've done on that bowl.....but it was truthfully more of an excerise trying to emulate some of the stuff I saw in a couple of the above videos (for the record I'd never try to mount a blank like Lyle Jamison, that is for folks way more experienced than I). Anyway, following as best i could and trying to do both pull cuts and push cuts, I've turned just a little more wood off the blank; but I really gained some confidence in using the bowl gouge. One note, I'm still running the lathe fairly slowly to grasp the hang of things. Anyway thanks to all, and I'll keep plugging along slowly at this.

Looks really great, Fred!!!

On 10/9/2021 at 11:28 AM, lew said:

I see he passed away in July.

Yes and I do not believe his videos are available any longer.

 

@Fred W. Hargis Jr Lathe speed can be slower when roughing as Lyle said as high as the lathe will stand still for. Getting to higher speeds (850 to 1100) , after balance is achieved, gives better cuts and will be more enjoyable. Still lots of tear out and more sharpening and speed will help that too.