April 21, 20197 yr Just what the title says. My issues are: 1) I don’t know how to handle the expansion of the back, and 2) I want to hang the cabinet, so the back has to handle the weight of a bunch of iron planes. Plywood glued and screwed into a rabbit of course handles this with aplomb. But if I used solid wood, how would I build it?
April 21, 20197 yr Tony, you could put a groove/dado in the sides and top insides of the cabinet at the rear, to slide the panel(s) up into to create your back. Do note glue up your panels to create one big panel, instead you can screw the panels together using batons, the batons will be on the outside rear of the panel the same thickness as the distance of the recessed panel in the dado. The batons will serve two purposes, firstly you can screw through them from the inside rear to the studs of your shop, and you'll have some good meat securing the cabinet to the wall, and secondly, they will secure your solid wood panels together and allowing them to expand and contract. I can come up with more pics if needed, let me know.
April 21, 20197 yr Author 6 minutes ago, John Morris said: I can come up with more pics if needed, let me know. No, that's pretty clear. Sides and top will be dovetailed with the pins on the top and bottom of course. The cabinet will be something like 10"d x 16"w x 32"h. It will contain perhaps 6 iron planes and a few wooden ones. I was thinking of hanging it with a French cleat. Do you see any issues with the weight of the cabinet being supported by the top's dado, where the wood is the thinnest?
April 21, 20197 yr 38 minutes ago, tony ennis said: Do you see any issues with the weight of the cabinet being supported by the top's dado, where the wood is the thinnest? Actually the weight would be bared by the batons that secure the rear panels together, or as your instincts say, a French Cleat would be perfect too.
April 21, 20197 yr Author Sitting the box on a 3/4" wide ledger strip screwed to the wall, and then screwing through the batons like you said, is my normal method. The ledger strip supports the weight and the screws just prevent the box from falling forward. But for the french cleat approach, nothing supports the box; the floating back panel is indeed connected to the french cleat, and now the box's weight is on the top of the back panel, right?
April 21, 20197 yr 3 minutes ago, tony ennis said: now the box's weight is on the top of the back panel, right? It would be yes, then as tradition dictates, forgo the top dado and float the panel to the top of the cabinet flush, and nail top back panel to top of cabinet. Don't forget, a bunch of iron planes, still is not that heavy, the above method(s) will work. That being said, one important item missing from this discussion is the size of the cabinet? Thanks Tony.
April 21, 20197 yr Author I appreciate your responses. I am not sure yet. Probably something like 32" tall, 16" wide, and 10" deep.
April 21, 20197 yr 8 minutes ago, tony ennis said: I appreciate your responses. I am not sure yet. Probably something like 32" tall, 16" wide, and 10" deep. Tony, I have hung many a cabinet used for other purposes and more likely for heavier loads, the above scenarios you and I discussed are legitimate and good. Just do it!
April 21, 20197 yr Author I have a doctorate in Analysis Paralysis Thank you! Edited April 21, 20197 yr by tony ennis manners
April 22, 20197 yr Another way is to use a tongue and grove connection for the separate boards. Do not flush the joint and use one screw or nail top and bottom of each board . Then hand as toy would ordinarily. This is not something I would do as I use ply but I saw Chris Schwarz do this.
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.