Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'mortise'.
-
Instructions Welcome to our Glossary of Woodworking Joints. Feel free to edit and add terminology to this research page. Please follow the general guidelines as outlined below. Add only woodworking terminology that is widely used in the crafts, arts, trades and industry of woodworking. Avoid entering terminology that is used locally, or regionally. Please research your own entries, before entering them here, and verify that they are indeed accurate and reliable. A B Biscuit Joint - Crescent-shaped slots are carved into 2 pieces of wood, then an oval-shaped "biscuit" is glued into place to join them both. Keeps glued boards aligned while glue dries and strengthens the bond. Cut perfect biscuit slots with our Biscuit Jointers. Box - A corner joint with interlocking square fingers. Receives pressure from two directions. Bridle - The bridle joint is often defined as the reverse of a mortise and tenon, and is chiefly used in the carpentry and joinery trades. The name probably originated from the fact that it bears some resemblance to the manner in which a bit slips into the horse's mouth and is fastened to the bridle. Like Mortise and Tenon, but easier to make as it is open on three ends. Butt - The end of a piece of wood is butted against another piece of wood. This is the simplest and weakest joint. Of those, there is the a) T-butt, b) end-to-end butt, c) Miter butt and d) edge-to-edge butt. C D Dovetail - See various types of Dovetail joinery below: Through - A Through joint is where the end grain is visible from both boards. Through dovetail joints are most commonly used on box construction and carcass (framework of the piece). This joint is also called a plain dovetail by many in the woodworking community. In the past the ends showing through would have been masked by a veneer. Today they are a sign of exceptional quality and are left showing with pride. Half-blind - A half-blind dovetail joint also known as the single-lap dovetail joint is exactly opposite of a through joint because the end grain is not visible on the boards. Sockets house the tails at the end of the boards so the dovetail ends are invisible. Half-blind dovetail joints are commonly used for attaching drawer fronts. Secret mitered - A secret mitered joint is also know as a full-blind mitered dovetail and full-blind dovetail joint. Secret mitered joints are used in box work and cabinet construction and offers the best strength out of all of the dovetail joints. These joints are used for box work or fine cabinet construction where strength is needed without a joint you can see. Secret double-lapped - The secret double-lapped dovetail joint is kind of the like the mitered joint but has a visible section of end grain on a single edge of the joint. similar to the secret mitered dovetail, but presents a very thin section of end grain on one edge of the joint. Secret double-lapped joints are used for box construction and carcass construction to hid the dovetails. Sliding - The sliding dovetail joint is created by joining two wood boards at 90 degree angles, where the they intersect different than other types of dovetail joints. They intersect by sliding the tail of one board into the middle socket of the other. Sliding dovetail joints are commonly referred to French Dovetail joints. Sliding joints are commonly used to joint cabinet sides to shelves, sides to cabinet bottoms, shelves to horizontal partitions, table frames to adjacent sections, sides to drawer fronts, cabinet sides to front rails, body and neck in guitars and violins. Doweling - Doweling is the term generally given to the method of jointing timber and other materials by wooden or metal pegs, which are called dowels. For cabinet-making and similar work straight-grained beechwood dowels are mostly used; these may be bought by the gross, in lengths of about 36 ins., and of any desired diameter. Draw bore - The draw bore joint method of joinery is typically used in a mortise and tenon joint. Some times in order to add additional strength to a mortise and tenon joint the crafts-person will bore through the joint and add a pegs or dowels to secure the tenon to the mortise, going a step further, one would also bore a hole(s) in the mortised part, then bore a hole(s) in the tenoned part that are offset slightly, then insert and ram home a trenail or trunnel pin, the tenoned part will draw tightly into the mortise. Doweling Joint E Edge Joint - Used to connect 2 boards along their length. Edge joints are usually glued, and are made stronger with complementary interlocking protrusions. The profile expands the edge-to-edge glue surface, but more importantly, produces the precise surface alignment that’s essential for fast glueups. F Finger Joint - (also known as a comb joint) A woodworking joint made by cutting a set of complementary rectangular cuts in two pieces of wood, which are then glued. To visualize a finger joint simply interlock the fingers of your hands at a ninety degree angle; hence the name "finger joint." It is stronger than a butt or lap joint, and often forms part of the overall look of the piece. G Glued - The glued joint is made by planing two pieces of timber so that when placed together they are in contact with each other at every point; they are then usually united with glue. Alternative names under which it is known are the butt joint, the rubbed joint, the slipped joint, whilst in certain localities it is known as the slaped (pronounced slayped) joint. Glued Joint H Halved - The halved joint is frequently known as half-lapping, and sometimes as checking and half-checking. In the majority of cases it is made by halving the two pieces, i.e., by cutting half the depth of the wood away. There are, however, exceptions to this rule, as in the case of "three-piece halving" (or, as it is sometimes called, "third lapping") and in the halving of timber with rebated or moulded edges. Halving is one of the simplest methods of connecting two pieces of timber, especially where it is desired to make frames and bracket supports for either inside or outside use. Halved Joint L Lap - or Halfing Joint - The end of a piece of wood is laid over and connected to another piece of wood. Due to a large surface area of long-grain to long-grain wood and glue surface coverage, this is a very strong joint. There are many versions of the lap joint but they all involve removing half of the wood from each piece using a saw, chisel, or router. 1/2 of the wood material on both pieces is removed, weakening the joint somewhat, but the two boards are aligned flush and stable. M Mitering - The term mitering is generally used to denote the type of joint used at the corner of a picture frame; or where two pieces of wood are beveled away so as to fit each other, as the skirting or plinth mould. In these cases the timber is cut so that the joint is at 45 degrees to the face, and the two pieces, when placed together, form an angle of 90 degrees (a right angle). Mortise and Tenon - A mortise (or mortice) and tenon joint is a type of joint that connects two pieces of wood or other material. Woodworkers around the world have used it for thousands of years to join pieces of wood, mainly when the adjoining pieces connect at an angle of 90°. In its basic form, it is both simple and strong. Mortise Corner Stub - Foxtail - Haunch - Tenon Bare Faced - Feather - Pinned - Stubbed or Stump - P Pocket-hole - Simple to make and often seen on manufactured items as it is easy to reproduce using a jig. Drill holes at an angle to both pieces for a stronger joint. For very best results, use a Forstner bit, which are well known for their ability to drill clean and chip-free holes in wood. S Saddle - The "saddle joint" is used for connecting upright posts to heads or sills of framing, and undoubtedly takes its name from its similarity to the way in which the saddle fits the horse. It does not weaken the framing as does a mortise and tenon joint, and shrinkage has little effect upon the joint. Saddle Joint Scarf - The method known as "scarfing" is used for the joining of timber in the direction of its length, enabling the workman to produce a joint with a smooth or flush appearance on all its faces. One of the simplest forms of scarfed joint is known as the half lap, in which a portion is cut out at the end of each beam or joist, equal in depth to half the full depth of the beam, and of equal length to the required scarf. Plated Sarf Joint T Tongued and Grooved - The tongued and grooved joint is used in one form or another throughout the whole of the woodworking trades, covering, as it does, a great variety of work from the laying of flooring boards to the construction of dressers, bookcases and other cabinet work. As the name of the joint implies, one one board a groove is created, on the joining board a tongue is created, and the two are married or matched together. Tongue and Grooved Joint Tambour Joint - A tambour joint is made with a ball and socket for joinery that allows movement between wood pieces, such as a roll-top desk or breadbox door. This joinery does not require glue or fasteners. The interlocking joint allows the joined pieces to move, flex, and move along a track.
-
I got side tracked making a new mailbox post for a larger mail box. A test tenon Fixed it with some polyurethane glue as the wood was pretty wet... I split it out while fitting the tenon to the mortise using a crow bar to jack it out... I hope to get it planted Sunday but I'm feeling kinda poorly right now... it's been raining so digging should be easy. JT
-
I'm reading a Fine Woodworking book on "Boxes, Carcases, and Drawers." It's just a collection of articles from the early days of FWW. One of them is by Tage Frid, one of the major authors of the day. He writes, "Furniture construction is broken into two main categories: frame and carcase. In frame construction, relatively narrow boards are joined -- usually with a mortise and tenon joint -- as in a chair or table base, or a frame and panel door. In carcase construction boards are joined end to end using dovetails, tongue and groove joints and the like, as in a drawer or hutch." Seems simple enough, huh?
- 5 replies
-
- tongue and groove
- dovetail
- (and 11 more)
-
From the album: Glenn Davis
Cherry display cabinet with curly maple raised panel back and bulletin board, mortise and tenon doors, pegged construction -
I have a drill press attachment for my mortising machine. I recently had to create a thru mortise on a 2-5/8" think piece (the feet on the bench I am creating. Once bored and my tenons fit I noticed the tenon was too thick given the mortise. I had ridges in the mortise so I took my knife and cut them away but I guess I was cutting not straight. So now the tenon once sanded equally on both side would start in the mortise but then after an inch in it wold drop to the bottom. I am planning on doing the following. I will from the back side of the thru mortise fill the gap with shims then glue them in after the tenon is installed and glued in place. Some of my mortise width is also wider than desired again on the back side only so again insert the tenon glue it in then pack the sides with shims Then glue them in and trim them off then sand smooth. Please note if the tenons were too thin I would of course glue back on the cut offs and recut then them. But in this case I found the mortise to be tapered. Is my proposal sound?
-
-
May favorite magazine/book of which I am a subscriber, has produced yet another wonderful class, this class "Skills Over Jigs" leads the student to cut the umbilical cord with hand tool jigs, sharpening jigs, dovetail jigs, etc. I have purchased a few of the M&T video classes on DVD, and loved them, this class is on video and the price is right. Link to the class page is: Skills Over Jigs If you do purchase the class please report back to us how it went! From my previous experience with their other courses, I don't think you'll be disappointed Here is the trailer that just dropped.
-
Over the past several weeks I have been slowly working on a new workbench for hand tool woodworking. This is a learning project for me and I am learning a lot. At the heart of things I am finding that I really enjoy hand tool woodworking. I am also finding out that I am not particularly good at it which doesn’t surprise me much as I have never really dedicated any time to it or learned the proper ways to do things with hand tools. My saw skills definitely need work as I have never done anything with hand saws but rough carpentry and this is a whole new ball of wax. That said, progress is being made and I was able to dry fit the left and right leg assemblies today. They are square and the hand cut mortises and tenons are well fit for the most part. I discovered that i NEED a shoulder plane to really finish these up properly. That said, the little gaps from my lousy saw skills won’t impact the functionality of this workbench in the slightest. Especially after everything is drawbored, pinned, and glued in place. As I work my way through this build I will continue to post updates on the overall progress.
-
View File Woodcraft Magazine Issue 81 (Classic Shaker Counter) A wonderful plan by our sponsors "Woodcraft Magazine". Woodcraft has given us permission to share any items from their online catalog, thank you Woodcraft! Submitter John Morris Submitted 08/14/2022 Category Furnishings
- 1 reply
-
- mortise
- tiger maple
-
(and 9 more)
Tagged with:
-
-
- tiger maple
- curly maple
-
(and 9 more)
Tagged with:
-
I was wanting a shop built tenoning jig and because I have a Delta Unifence rip fence on my table saw, I had to build a fence and a shoe. The fence is 18” long and the shoe is 12” long. When building the shoe, I used a paper shim (0.004”) to allow the shoe to slide freely along the jig fence. The jig fence references off the top of the Unifence and the shoe references off the jig's top surface. The mating sliding surfaces are cherry hardwood. I painted the shoe red to help remind me to be safe. I am getting reliable results. I used a 3/8” dia. router bit to make my mortises and a flat ground TS blade to cut the tenons. Through trial-n-error, a 0.508 shim results in a perfect mortise/tenon fit. The advantages of using this TS-tenoning jig over using the stack dado blade method are this jig will allow me to have one reference surface throughout the build, I do not have to have all the mating materials milled at the same time to allow having at least one flush mating surface, and results in producing smooth consistent tenon surfaces. I believe I will be able to use the jig fence with other shop-made accessories if the need arises. Thanks for looking. Danl
-
Recently did some mortise and tenon work and found my basic chisel set in need of an upgrade. Having my eye on Narex chisels for awhile I am asking for some advice on what type of chisel or chisel sets would suite my needs. These would be a nice upgrade: Narex chisel set BUT, what else would I need to do more work?
-
From the album: Glenn Davis
Mortise and Tenon Pegged construction -
Here's a good video on the subject. Note you could also just mortise both sides and cut some floating tenons, too. Or you could go to PopWood's site and pay $4 for the video. http://mycrafts.com/diy/mortise-tenon-joinery-with-a-router/
-
Well, the Christmas Gift Exchange list is out.....I have to find a present for my Grand daughter-in-law...... Bought about 25bft of Quarter Sawn Ash, today.... There are 11 boards in that stack..average width is just under 6"....all are around 3/4" thick. Hmmmmm, how about a Blanket/ Hope Chest build? Frame and panel? Or maybe a "6 board" style? been a while since I built a chest....maybe see what I can come up with? Give things about a week, or so...while the Single Brain Cell Sketch Up works things up into a "Plan" have to work around the snipes, though. grain looks decent enough....fellow did have a rack of these boards, so I might go back IF I need any more... Dovetailed corners? or, Tongue & Groove corners? Raised of flat panels....Bread board ends on a lid? Stay tuned..
- 82 replies
-
- project idea
- christmas present
- (and 11 more)
-
So this morning I've started working on the big poplar bowl. At this point I'm not even sure if Id be able to manage cutting a mortise into this bowl. Unfortunately I may have to go with the tenon.... Although I do not have a set of cole jaws that would fit this particular sized bowl I am at a point where I'm on a loss on figuring out what should be done. Only because if I take it off the wood worm screw and put the face plate back on it is far too big for it to fit inside the motor housing I'm going to try it with the origional face plate that came with the lathe but I don't think it will work. If it does I'll be able to get a mortise cut on the bottom but as of right now I may or may not be able to.... Any suggestions?
-
From the album: Relax time finally
-
From the album: Relax time finally
-
Congrats to all of the Patriot Raffle winners. We made our fundraising goal! Hope everyone along the east coast is safe and didn't suffer any damage from the hurricane over the weekend. Our Patriot Turners- @Gerald Started a thread that should generate a lot of input. Sanding your lathe projects. You all know that sanding is my second favorite thing in all the world. Please check out what Gerald's setup is and show us your sanding techniques. @Ron Altier has been frustrated by the U/V finish he has been using. Ron applied it to a beautiful segmented turning only to end up with problems. Ron explains his frustrations in his post- @AndrewB Has been working on several projects this past week. He has been fighting a "wobble" problem with some of his turnings. We have been offering suggestions. Maybe one of you has experienced a similar problem and can help solve this elusive gremlin. Andrew also was having some trouble with tearout on a small bowl on which he is working. We've all been there. Maybe you could share your experiences and advice- It hasn't all been problems for Andrew, however. He showed us a really nice bowl he finished- And, he has pen making down pretty good, too! What’s Coming Up- Cindy Drozda has another virtual demonstration schedule for this month- Click on the above image for the link to more information Cindy will also be a demonstrator at the virtual Woodturners Worldwide Symposium Click on the above image for the link to the registration site. For The Newbies- Have a lot here for the new turners this week- You don't need a fancy chuck to turn a bowl. Mike Peace's video shows you how to use a Jam Chuck- In that video, Mike used traditional tools for turning. HSS tools must be sharp to give the best and consistent results. Here's a couple of videos demonstrating the sharpening process on some of the common HSS tools- And a couple of videos covering some of the lathe parts- Expand Your Horizons- Tim Yoder posted a video on turning a sphere. There are some jigs available to help create a sphere on the lathe but this jig is a little different. Carl Jacobson turns a beautiful maple burl lidded box. I really like the "lid pull" he added to the top. New Turning Items- Cheated a bit here. This is the set that Tim Yoder used to make the sphere. https://drechsler-wissen.de/produkt/spannvorrichtung-zum-kugeldrechseln-im-set-74-mm-grosses-set/ Everything Else- Rick Turns videos from last week- Not sure why it happened. In the past, I have used the soap soak method and not had any roughed blanks crack or warp. This one made a liar out of me. It's about 8" in diameter and maybe 5"deep. Turned with no trouble. Came out of the soak with no warping or cracking- Put it in a paper bag with shaving for a couple of weeks and when I pulled it - Three cracks developed. This one and another about 180° around the circumference and one near the bottom. I added the walnut dutchmans and am in the process of returning and sanding. Hope it doesn't end up in the trash. Safe turing and stay well
-
Seeing that I had took all the tips off of my EWT tools not including the rougher. I started on a new project while I'm waiting for a couple tools and parts to get here to finish off the last project. I decided to go with the Walnut Claro again this round. I had a minor problem in the beginning that I didn't realize that the blank was off angled cut and was well some what lop sided to start with. Even still burned through that issue at the start and had a go with it. I had to take off quite a bit of material to get more of a cup shape with this one. For the bottom I didn't go with the mortise route since I seem to have been cutting those too deep. I guess that needs more practice on my part. I decided to go with a tennon so I could just hack it off with my new hand tooled crosscut saw. Also with some of the pointers I received in the last project I am definitely going to be trying the sanding before hollowing portion on this one as well. I'm not quite sure but I'm semi starting to like the offset pattern of the grain on this one.
- 19 replies
-
- ewt
- easy wood tool
-
(and 3 more)
Tagged with:
-
From the album: Glenn Davis
Mortise and Tenon Construction- 2 comments
-
No, it’s not a tuning fork. A few years ago, I read an article in Fine Woodworking Magazine that featured a craftsman (Toshio Odate) using a chisel like this while making a shoji screen. Upon seeing the chisel, I decided to research it a bit a see if I could locate one on eBay. I learned it was referred to as a nihon mukomachi, was very hard to find in good condition, and could be rather expensive. I didn’t want one so much because I’m always using 1/4” twin tenons in my work (I’m not), but because I, like a couple other guys I know ( looking at you Steve ), just can’t pass up a good deal on a good tool. So after a couple years of searching eBay and a few other vintage tool sellers, I finally found one for a good price. On top of that it came honed, hollow ground, ready to go. The only fault is a tiny split in the handle that I’m not too worried about. The two blades measure exactly 1/4” each and the gap in between is also exactly 1/4”. It also came with a nifty wooden sheath. Anyway, just wanted to share this unique tool with everyone. Cheers.
-
-