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Showing results for tags 'mortise'.
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I got side tracked making a new mailbox post for a larger mail box. A test tenon Fixed it with some polyurethane glue as the wood was pretty wet... I split it out while fitting the tenon to the mortise using a crow bar to jack it out... I hope to get it planted Sunday but I'm feeling kinda poorly right now... it's been raining so digging should be easy. JT
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I'm reading a Fine Woodworking book on "Boxes, Carcases, and Drawers." It's just a collection of articles from the early days of FWW. One of them is by Tage Frid, one of the major authors of the day. He writes, "Furniture construction is broken into two main categories: frame and carcase. In frame construction, relatively narrow boards are joined -- usually with a mortise and tenon joint -- as in a chair or table base, or a frame and panel door. In carcase construction boards are joined end to end using dovetails, tongue and groove joints and the like, as in a drawer or hutch." Seems simple enough, huh?
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From the album: Glenn Davis
Cherry display cabinet with curly maple raised panel back and bulletin board, mortise and tenon doors, pegged construction -
I have a drill press attachment for my mortising machine. I recently had to create a thru mortise on a 2-5/8" think piece (the feet on the bench I am creating. Once bored and my tenons fit I noticed the tenon was too thick given the mortise. I had ridges in the mortise so I took my knife and cut them away but I guess I was cutting not straight. So now the tenon once sanded equally on both side would start in the mortise but then after an inch in it wold drop to the bottom. I am planning on doing the following. I will from the back side of the thru mortise fill the gap with shims then glue them in after the tenon is installed and glued in place. Some of my mortise width is also wider than desired again on the back side only so again insert the tenon glue it in then pack the sides with shims Then glue them in and trim them off then sand smooth. Please note if the tenons were too thin I would of course glue back on the cut offs and recut then them. But in this case I found the mortise to be tapered. Is my proposal sound?
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Managed to get some forward progress on the wife’s entry table this weekend.
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Just in case we forget sometimes, picture association can help, Mortise and Tenon theory 101 class
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May favorite magazine/book of which I am a subscriber, has produced yet another wonderful class, this class "Skills Over Jigs" leads the student to cut the umbilical cord with hand tool jigs, sharpening jigs, dovetail jigs, etc. I have purchased a few of the M&T video classes on DVD, and loved them, this class is on video and the price is right. Link to the class page is: Skills Over Jigs If you do purchase the class please report back to us how it went! From my previous experience with their other courses, I don't think you'll be disappointed Here is the trailer that just dropped.
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Over the past several weeks I have been slowly working on a new workbench for hand tool woodworking. This is a learning project for me and I am learning a lot. At the heart of things I am finding that I really enjoy hand tool woodworking. I am also finding out that I am not particularly good at it which doesn’t surprise me much as I have never really dedicated any time to it or learned the proper ways to do things with hand tools. My saw skills definitely need work as I have never done anything with hand saws but rough carpentry and this is a whole new ball of wax. That said, progress is being made and I was able to dry fit the left and right leg assemblies today. They are square and the hand cut mortises and tenons are well fit for the most part. I discovered that i NEED a shoulder plane to really finish these up properly. That said, the little gaps from my lousy saw skills won’t impact the functionality of this workbench in the slightest. Especially after everything is drawbored, pinned, and glued in place. As I work my way through this build I will continue to post updates on the overall progress.
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View File Woodcraft Magazine Issue 81 (Classic Shaker Counter) A wonderful plan by our sponsors "Woodcraft Magazine". Woodcraft has given us permission to share any items from their online catalog, thank you Woodcraft! Submitter John Morris Submitted 08/14/2022 Category Furnishings- 1 reply
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A wonderful plan by our sponsors "Woodcraft Magazine". Woodcraft has given us permission to share any items from their online catalog, thank you Woodcraft!-
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I was wanting a shop built tenoning jig and because I have a Delta Unifence rip fence on my table saw, I had to build a fence and a shoe. The fence is 18” long and the shoe is 12” long. When building the shoe, I used a paper shim (0.004”) to allow the shoe to slide freely along the jig fence. The jig fence references off the top of the Unifence and the shoe references off the jig's top surface. The mating sliding surfaces are cherry hardwood. I painted the shoe red to help remind me to be safe. I am getting reliable results. I used a 3/8” dia. router bit to make my mortises and a flat ground TS blade to cut the tenons. Through trial-n-error, a 0.508 shim results in a perfect mortise/tenon fit. The advantages of using this TS-tenoning jig over using the stack dado blade method are this jig will allow me to have one reference surface throughout the build, I do not have to have all the mating materials milled at the same time to allow having at least one flush mating surface, and results in producing smooth consistent tenon surfaces. I believe I will be able to use the jig fence with other shop-made accessories if the need arises. Thanks for looking. Danl
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Recently did some mortise and tenon work and found my basic chisel set in need of an upgrade. Having my eye on Narex chisels for awhile I am asking for some advice on what type of chisel or chisel sets would suite my needs. These would be a nice upgrade: Narex chisel set BUT, what else would I need to do more work?
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From the album: Glenn Davis
Mortise and Tenon Pegged construction -
Here's a good video on the subject. Note you could also just mortise both sides and cut some floating tenons, too. Or you could go to PopWood's site and pay $4 for the video. http://mycrafts.com/diy/mortise-tenon-joinery-with-a-router/
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Well, the Christmas Gift Exchange list is out.....I have to find a present for my Grand daughter-in-law...... Bought about 25bft of Quarter Sawn Ash, today.... There are 11 boards in that stack..average width is just under 6"....all are around 3/4" thick. Hmmmmm, how about a Blanket/ Hope Chest build? Frame and panel? Or maybe a "6 board" style? been a while since I built a chest....maybe see what I can come up with? Give things about a week, or so...while the Single Brain Cell Sketch Up works things up into a "Plan" have to work around the snipes, though. grain looks decent enough....fellow did have a rack of these boards, so I might go back IF I need any more... Dovetailed corners? or, Tongue & Groove corners? Raised of flat panels....Bread board ends on a lid? Stay tuned..
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So this morning I've started working on the big poplar bowl. At this point I'm not even sure if Id be able to manage cutting a mortise into this bowl. Unfortunately I may have to go with the tenon.... Although I do not have a set of cole jaws that would fit this particular sized bowl I am at a point where I'm on a loss on figuring out what should be done. Only because if I take it off the wood worm screw and put the face plate back on it is far too big for it to fit inside the motor housing I'm going to try it with the origional face plate that came with the lathe but I don't think it will work. If it does I'll be able to get a mortise cut on the bottom but as of right now I may or may not be able to.... Any suggestions?
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From the album: Relax time finally
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From the album: Relax time finally
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Congrats to all of the Patriot Raffle winners. We made our fundraising goal! Hope everyone along the east coast is safe and didn't suffer any damage from the hurricane over the weekend. Our Patriot Turners- @Gerald Started a thread that should generate a lot of input. Sanding your lathe projects. You all know that sanding is my second favorite thing in all the world. Please check out what Gerald's setup is and show us your sanding techniques. @Ron Altier has been frustrated by the U/V finish he has been using. Ron applied it to a beautiful segmented turning only to end up with problems. Ron explains his frustrations in his post- @AndrewB Has been working on several projects this past week. He has been fighting a "wobble" problem with some of his turnings. We have been offering suggestions. Maybe one of you has experienced a similar problem and can help solve this elusive gremlin. Andrew also was having some trouble with tearout on a small bowl on which he is working. We've all been there. Maybe you could share your experiences and advice- It hasn't all been problems for Andrew, however. He showed us a really nice bowl he finished- And, he has pen making down pretty good, too! What’s Coming Up- Cindy Drozda has another virtual demonstration schedule for this month- Click on the above image for the link to more information Cindy will also be a demonstrator at the virtual Woodturners Worldwide Symposium Click on the above image for the link to the registration site. For The Newbies- Have a lot here for the new turners this week- You don't need a fancy chuck to turn a bowl. Mike Peace's video shows you how to use a Jam Chuck- In that video, Mike used traditional tools for turning. HSS tools must be sharp to give the best and consistent results. Here's a couple of videos demonstrating the sharpening process on some of the common HSS tools- And a couple of videos covering some of the lathe parts- Expand Your Horizons- Tim Yoder posted a video on turning a sphere. There are some jigs available to help create a sphere on the lathe but this jig is a little different. Carl Jacobson turns a beautiful maple burl lidded box. I really like the "lid pull" he added to the top. New Turning Items- Cheated a bit here. This is the set that Tim Yoder used to make the sphere. https://drechsler-wissen.de/produkt/spannvorrichtung-zum-kugeldrechseln-im-set-74-mm-grosses-set/ Everything Else- Rick Turns videos from last week- Not sure why it happened. In the past, I have used the soap soak method and not had any roughed blanks crack or warp. This one made a liar out of me. It's about 8" in diameter and maybe 5"deep. Turned with no trouble. Came out of the soak with no warping or cracking- Put it in a paper bag with shaving for a couple of weeks and when I pulled it - Three cracks developed. This one and another about 180° around the circumference and one near the bottom. I added the walnut dutchmans and am in the process of returning and sanding. Hope it doesn't end up in the trash. Safe turing and stay well
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Seeing that I had took all the tips off of my EWT tools not including the rougher. I started on a new project while I'm waiting for a couple tools and parts to get here to finish off the last project. I decided to go with the Walnut Claro again this round. I had a minor problem in the beginning that I didn't realize that the blank was off angled cut and was well some what lop sided to start with. Even still burned through that issue at the start and had a go with it. I had to take off quite a bit of material to get more of a cup shape with this one. For the bottom I didn't go with the mortise route since I seem to have been cutting those too deep. I guess that needs more practice on my part. I decided to go with a tennon so I could just hack it off with my new hand tooled crosscut saw. Also with some of the pointers I received in the last project I am definitely going to be trying the sanding before hollowing portion on this one as well. I'm not quite sure but I'm semi starting to like the offset pattern of the grain on this one.
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From the album: Glenn Davis
Mortise and Tenon Construction -
No, it’s not a tuning fork. A few years ago, I read an article in Fine Woodworking Magazine that featured a craftsman (Toshio Odate) using a chisel like this while making a shoji screen. Upon seeing the chisel, I decided to research it a bit a see if I could locate one on eBay. I learned it was referred to as a nihon mukomachi, was very hard to find in good condition, and could be rather expensive. I didn’t want one so much because I’m always using 1/4” twin tenons in my work (I’m not), but because I, like a couple other guys I know ( looking at you Steve ), just can’t pass up a good deal on a good tool. So after a couple years of searching eBay and a few other vintage tool sellers, I finally found one for a good price. On top of that it came honed, hollow ground, ready to go. The only fault is a tiny split in the handle that I’m not too worried about. The two blades measure exactly 1/4” each and the gap in between is also exactly 1/4”. It also came with a nifty wooden sheath. Anyway, just wanted to share this unique tool with everyone. Cheers.
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What is the difference from a mortise router bit and a spiral up cut for box joints? Can they both be used to make a box joint?
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