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Found 29 results

  1. No, it’s not a tuning fork. A few years ago, I read an article in Fine Woodworking Magazine that featured a craftsman (Toshio Odate) using a chisel like this while making a shoji screen. Upon seeing the chisel, I decided to research it a bit a see if I could locate one on eBay. I learned it was referred to as a nihon mukomachi, was very hard to find in good condition, and could be rather expensive. I didn’t want one so much because I’m always using 1/4” twin tenons in my work (I’m not), but because I, like a couple other guys I know ( looking at you Steve ), just can’t pass up a good deal on a good tool. So after a couple years of searching eBay and a few other vintage tool sellers, I finally found one for a good price. On top of that it came honed, hollow ground, ready to go. The only fault is a tiny split in the handle that I’m not too worried about. The two blades measure exactly 1/4” each and the gap in between is also exactly 1/4”. It also came with a nifty wooden sheath. Anyway, just wanted to share this unique tool with everyone. Cheers.
  2. Folks, does anyone out there have Issue one of Mortise and Tenon Magazine they wouldn't mind selling?
  3. The podcast page for Mortise and Tenon Magazine
  4. What is the difference from a mortise router bit and a spiral up cut for box joints? Can they both be used to make a box joint?
  5. STILL WAITIN ON THIS LEG TO GIT WELL. THOUGH OF THIS. TELL ME WHAT WILL BE RONG WITH IT. YEAW, AT'S RIGHT, I DON'T KNOW PROPER DESCRIPTIVE NAME FOR back leg & back rest?? FOLLOWING WILL BE CUT W/ BAN SAW. CUT OUT FRONT LEGS FROM 2X? " " ARM REST USING 1X MORTISED INTO BACK ??LEG? " " BACK LEG/BACK REST USING 2x8 FOR THE CURVE, hope I can get both sides from 1 2x8, doubt it. BORE HOLES FOR DOWELS THRU SIDE OF SEAT " " 2& 1/4"OR 1/2". ALL DOWELS WILL BE HORIZONTAL INCLUDING FOR THE SEAT. MAYBE 1" DOWELS FOR SEAT. 3/4" FOR BACK. AINT DECIDED BOUT ROCKER ER NOT. STREACHERS = 5/8" FOR/TO LOOK BALANCED Anywho maybe yall kin git an idea.
  6. OC3

    Curly Cherry Hutch

    From the album: Glenn Davis

    Curly Cherry Hutch with dovetailed casework, sliding dovetailed keyed moulding, mortise and tenon panel doors, dovetailed feet, bookmatched door panels
  7. From the album: Glenn Davis

    Pegged Mortise and Tenon Construction gummy cherry bevel glass mirror
  8. From the album: Glenn Davis

    Figured maple dresser, birdseye drawer sides, raised panel cabinet sides, blum slides, pegged mortise and tenon
  9. From the album: Glenn Davis

    Sliding Dovetail Shelves, Dovetailed case, Sliding Dovetail Keyed Mldgs, Mortise and Tenon Doors, and Repro Antique German Glass Maple bookmatched frame and panel back
  10. OC3

    Cherry display cabinet

    From the album: Glenn Davis

    Cherry display cabinet with curly maple raised panel back and bulletin board, mortise and tenon doors, pegged construction
  11. From the album: Glenn Davis

    Mortise and Tenon Pegged construction
  12. From the album: Glenn Davis

    Mortise and Tenon Construction
  13. The current WOOD Magazine has a good article on "Drill joinery" - screws, dowel joints, pocket screws, Miller Dowels, BeadLock, mortise and tenon joints, etc. Well covered. A couple of other articles on a compact workbench from 2-bys and glue comparisons. Best issue I've seen in a while.
  14. Good video. Glen did a seminar last spring for the Cincinnati Woodworking Club and included techniques such as this.
  15. I'm trying to decide what I want to do about efficient mortises Fe$tool Domino is out of the question unless I'd get a super deal on one. I don't see that happening. Same for a dedicated mortising machine. Super fast, though. I attended a Glen Huey seminar last spring and PopWood recently reposted an old video of his using the same technique. Basically a plunge router with a fence. I do see a lot of scorch marks on his faces. Matthias' Pantarouter is nice, but overkill for me. Thinking of making a sliding horizontal router jig, but have not looked up the pattern in a recent Wood magazine, or even sure I have it. I have a "Bead Lock" that I've used for a few things. It has inserts to drill the overlapping holes, then another to guide a chisel square. Maybe too slow for a large number of them. Stock gets expensive for a large number of them, and custom router bits to make the stock crazy expensive. Hand mortising, again, too slow (at least at my skill level) Then it occurred to me, my Shopsmith has a router chuck and I could use it to plunge out the mortises. Hmm. What to do, what to do? Are there other options I have not considered?
  16. Reading the post from Ron with his mortise and tenon joints got me to wondering. How many of us use a hollow chisel mortise versus hand chopping the joint the traditional way? I bought the Delta mortiser years ago when I built my workbench, and to the best of my feeble recollection, that is the only time I have used it. But then, I haven't done many M/T joints, either. Any thoughts?
  17. But seems real nice I was on AliBaba I forget why and stumbles across this for a lousy $20 bucks Sometime ya can't resist the shiny bauble. I had low expectations Maybe it's like 1/3 size of he real thing maybe it was made of compressed waste I didn't know. Turns out it's pretty nice Don't recognize the wood. It's hard plenty hard and slightly greenish
  18. John Morris

    Cutting Mortises

    From the album: Shaker Furniture

    By hand, and as careful as I was, edges did get knicked, but once the back slats are in place the knicked edges just kind of disappeared. The mortise bottoms are rough, but nobody see's the bottom of mortises.
  19. John Morris

    Back Slat Mortise

    From the album: Shaker Furniture

    The mortises turned out really nice, I just took my time, sat down at the bench and diligently approached each mortise, sometimes I'd catch myself getting a bit too fast chopping these out, that's when I make mistakes. So I pulled myself back and slowed down, and they actually turned out very nice.
  20. From the album: Shaker Furniture

    As I chopped the mortises, I kept testing the fit, I had to chop out the mortises at an angle, so they other side of the bent slat, would meet into the opposite chair post.
  21. I ordered a very inexpensive set of mortise chisels, Narex. A Czech outfit, just chopped a test mortise using the 1/4" chisel and I gotta say, not bad for a set of three for 49 bucks. I purchased a cheap set because I want to custom grind the widths of the chisel, I didn't want to buy high end and grind em down. But these Narex's are pretty decent if you want a starter set to get going with, I would recommend these. Below, 1/4" inch mortise chopped at 5/8ths deep.
  22. Well getting close, anyway. Chopped and fitted the stretchers to a front post.. Tenons go into housed mortises. Saw down a hair, chisel away until the stretcher fits flush to the post Shape, sand fill, sand some more...after it is all glued up. Laid out for the rocker that goes into the other set of posts.. Clamp the rockers together, transfer where the posts go. Set the square to mark for an 1/8" deep bridle joint recess. One done, do the other three, and layout the other half of the joints, the notched ends of the posts Saw a few lines, so I can chop and file, and coping saw away the waste.. Short post is almost flat across, the rear one? Not so flat. Test fits. need to settle each down a bit. Back one IS leaning a bit to the rear, though. Fun part was clamping BOTH sides into the vise....needed to mark where the stretchers will go. Then..BANDSAW two new stretchers, as I forgot to cut both sets. Will need to joint those with a plane..later. For some reason, just a little tuckered out.....whew...
  23. Laid out a few things today. I also installed a new blade in the bandsaw. Then, resawed a couple rails to almost where I wanted them... Not the best cuts. We have ways to fix that.. Just a jack plane. Used to be a pile of spare parts, not it is a Stanely #5, Type 17, or so..... Need to lay out where the two rails would go on the front and back posts. cut these rail to length, plus a little extra for tenons. Then cut the tenons. One rail is a bit wider than the other, as it will support the seat. Cut the tenons? Tried the bandsaw, didn't go too well. Drug out the Disston No.4 to make all the cuts. i also laid out where these will be on the posts.. There the lower one,and.. The upper/seat rail one. Grabbed a few other toys, time to go digging Just the basics, right? Chopped down a little over 1/2" deep closer to 1", would have to go back and look. Have to create a flat for the rail to sit down on. need to work on the upper one a bit more. Front post is done. Need to work on the rear post. Maybe some glue and pins later? Right now, I am having Homemade Veggie/beef Soup....we'll see IF I feel like going back down to the shop, later....stay tuned
  24. I've done loose tenons because (a) I can make tenons stock to very precise tolerances and (b) I built a slot mortiser / milling machine that does a great job making slots. I tried the traditional tenon cutting rig and never could get results that I liked. The problem for me was the doubling of error due to the flipping of the stock. Any error is always compounded. I have seen guys who use a shaper to cut tenons and using shim stock they can make 'em any way they please. I've considered doing the same thing with a table saw arbor using spacers shims and twin blades. Never actually tried it, but I know I ain't the only person who considered it. Somewhere I saw a vid of some mexican luthiers using twin stacked circular saw blades (really big ones) mounted on what looked like a shaper to re-saw wood for guitar fronts and backs. They had to have at least a 10" depth of cut. it looked scary. Recently I stumbled across this 1992 American Woodworker article on exactly this: Cutting Tenons And of course there's a more recent incarnation of it here http://www.woodcraftmagazine.com/posts.php?id=218 Not that long ago the dopes at FWW got themselves all in a tizzy over something I've been doing for as long as I've owned a table saw (more than 40 years), and years they called it the speed tenon. I call it a bit rough on the blade, because it dulls one side lots more than the other making it cut funny after not too long. Set the rip fence for the length of the tenon, set the blade height to cut the shoulder, slap the wood in the cross cut fence and use the rip fence as a positive stop. Most of the cutting is done with the edge of the saw blade. http://www.finewoodworking.com/item/42295/behold-the-speed-tenon It is a little more precise than the traditional tenoning rig because you can control blade height nicely, but any error is still compounded. Everything old is always new again.
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