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I have come up with a couple of ways to apply stain/paint/glue when making small wooden projects (most of my projects are small). On Amazon I found these foam cleaning swabs that are great for applying stain/paint/glue to my small projects. There is no lint or hair to get stuck on the wood, they are pretty absorbent and they do a good job spreading glue/stain evenly. After I am finished with the applicator I snip the foam tip off and keep the plastic handle that comes in handy stirring small cans of stain or paint and come in pretty handy when mixing and applying epoxy glue. I was making a large coffee cup display cabinet for my daughter where I cut 1/8" dados for i/8" plywood shelves and came up with the idea of using pipe cleaners for getting glue down into the dados without making a big mess. I thought someone might be able to use these ideas in their own work.
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Woodturners often use exotic species as part of their turning stock and glued up blanks. This video, from the Woodsmith Shop, discusses how you can be more successful when gluing these species.
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Interesting article. Yet another reason to stay away from Gorilla Glue Outdoor Adhesives WWW.WOODMAGAZINE.COM Think "outdoor adhesive" and the word "waterproof" may come to mind. But joints made with these adhesives need to survive more than mere...
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I am to Join multiple board together to form a 2.625 x 2.625 block of wood. I cut the width of all my boards to 3" or over 3+" When I check the thickness I am right on 2.625 or just over or just under. These are for the top and bottom rails and legs for a new work bench. When I run the glued up assembly they the jointer again. I will be undersized for my T. What is the minimum board I can perp to be added to the T thickness on a planan safely.? Also because the cut line will be very close to the glue line should I bother? If i gule on a 1/4" board to the ohter already glued boards I will be nearly 3" thick which will get cut back down to 2.625. Can I safel TP solid oak board down to 1/4" or should I add a carrying table? Then how do you go about clamping this thin board. This wood has holes throught by bugs but they do not cause any trouble stucturally just for glue up the glue squeezes thru the holes. So it is one board at a time.
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How much pressure do you need on a glue joint? Apparently, not as much as you might think. Titebond recommends 150~250 pounds per square inch (psi) [range depends on soft/medium/hard wood]. I dug into some university reports, and wood glue (PVA, on maple, “tangential” grain match [flatsawn] ) maxes its strength at about 2400 psi clamp pressure, with strength maxing at 38 MPa (ignore what the letters mean); Titebond’s 250 psi clamping gives 27 MPa; and zero clamp pressure (just rubbing the blocks together) gives 26 MPa: that is, ZERO pressure gives 96% of the Titebond standard and 68% of max. IOW, you don’t get much added for all that clamping to 250 psi or higher. With pine (PVA, flatsawn), max strength is at 250 psi, giving 9 MPa; Titebond’s 150 psi gives about 8 MPa; “zero” clamping is 7 MPa (87% of T’b). The conclusion I draw is that clamping until you see a bit of squeeze out is enough. Another oft-cited caution: too much pressure will rob the joint of glue, reducing strength. The report did not show that. The peak glue strength in the testing was achieved just before the clamp pressure got so high that the wood deformed, and deformation (not glue loss) characterized maximum strength. [1 MPa = 145 psi] { https://wfs.swst.org/index.php/wfs/article/view/1395 }
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Got one of a set of nesting tables from a friend that had a leg broken off. Process of repair: Take off one end of legs with the damage Work apart the joint on the other end since the dowel pins were at right angles Find broken off pieces and glue and clamped them back on Removed broken off dowel pin. Cleaned out holes Filled remaining missing piece with stick epoxy, let cure a few minutes then chisel and sand down to flush Glued in new dowel pin and reglued the rest Lighty sand top Apply a bit of touch up marker where needed Apply a couple coats of shellac, then a coat of lacquer Before Putty with overfill Putty after sanding Glue up Back together
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Not being able to work I spent the day watching YouTube and this popped up.
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Big doings at Gobbler's Knob tomorrow! Will Phil see his shadow??? Our Patriot Turners- @jthornton has finished up his popcorn bowl! And, what a beauty it is! His post picks up at- @HandyDan commented on JT's glue up and showed us the kind of glue he likes to use. Thanks for the tip, Dan! A while back @John Morris asked about our favorite 3 turning tools, JT posted this about his- JT also shared a video of a young man using a very creative way to make a vase. A little scary at a couple of places! @forty_caliber added some really cool instrumentation to his drying box. He tells us a little more here- And, it is pretty obvious that Forty's drying box works great. This is his first bowl he turned from his kiln- Check out more image in his post- @Masonsailor made a glued up bowl blank but he didn't use any of the traditional methods. Check out how Paul milled the blanks and what type of finish he used- What’s Coming Up- Click on the images for links to registration and more information- From Cindy Drozda- For The Newbies- Sharpening traditional turning tools can be made easier by using a sharpening system. In this video, Sam Angelo demonstrates the use of the Wolverine system- You've spent a lot of money on that new lathe! Here are tips from Mike Peace on how to keep it in top condition. NOTE: this is a video from a live presentation so it's a little long- Turning a bowl can be a intimidating at the beginning. Kent Weakley offers some tips to help you along- Expand Your Horizons- It's always fun to watch Richard Raffan. He makes it look so easy! Two recent videos in which I found some techniques to help me. In this one, I was amazed at just how shallow of a mortice he used for reversing the piece- And here, the hollowing seemingly done with wild abandon and yet perfectly executed- Make some of these for the grandkids and then send them home to their parents- Last week, we posted a project called a Salt Volcano. Alan Stratton gives us a some insight on the design Finally, Carl Jacobson uses the new Niles bronze thread inserts to make a pill box- New Turning Items- Thread cutters/chasers are not new but this tool has a neat design by combining inside and outside threading operations in one. https://spiracraft.com/product/carter-and-son-toolworks-double-ended-thread-chaser/?inf_contact_key=8268ca260892678527d2626eaa684eee Video from Carter and Sons demonstrating the tool. https://vimeo.com/788457481 Everything Else- Rick Turns list of YouTube woodturning videos from last week- And from Ron Brown's Newsletter- Artistic License Another reason turning wood is so satisfying is the total creativity allowed when turning most projects. Take pens for example; simple and straight, curvy, puffy, long, short, wood, plastic, bone, resin, one-piece, two-piece, pencil, ballpoint, or fountain. A quick look on Facebook, Etsy, or YouTube will reveal a wide variety of examples. While we all have our preferences, the folks who made each one loved every minute and are just as proud as the next fellow is of their creations. Some folks strive to make their turnings perfectly symmetrical and seemingly flawless. Others are just the opposite reveling in off-center, out-of-balance projects leaving as many natural defects and voids in the final product as possible. Aren’t all of us just like that; off-center and out of balance according to someone else? I often repeat the phrase “Everyone seems normal until you get to know them.” I’ve come to realize that is the beauty of my fellow beings. There is a reason that everyone is a unique combination of God’s creation. That is what makes them special. Yes, there are accepted standards of what makes a great shape for a bowl, vase, pen, urn, or finial. But who says those are the only pleasing shapes? I encourage you to use your artistic license to explore something outside the traditional shape, material, or order of things. My friend, Michael Gibson turns ultra-thin vessels, then pierces and colors them so they become something you might find floating in a whirlwind in the forest. Some would seem to be so fragile that merely looking at them may cause them to break. I discovered the joy of turning green wood from start to finish in one session just so I could see how much it would warp and distort, not unlike myself. Now I sometimes even add rubber bands to help it along! Celebrate your artistic license as you stand at the lathe and welcome each new friend, knowing they are probably just a little bit off-center too. Remember that wherever you go, there you are. Safe turning
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A decent article on glues and techniques. I still have no love for Gorilla Glue 42-Glue Management-3.pdf
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http://www.titebond.com/print/product/1f1dafb3-eec8-4f9a-87fe-06f40d4c47df
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Latest from the Titebond tech team: The results from yesterday’s poll are in! We asked lead glue guru Bob Behnke (who manages our Technical Support Team) to weigh in on it. He says there’s no right answer; both approaches have their benefits and drawbacks. Here they are: One-sided gluing is the only way to get invisible glue lines and results in less squeeze-out mess. On the other hand, you must be quick to join the parts within recommended open and assembly times (which can, themselves, be cut in half by less than 8% wood moisture content). Two-sided gluing results in higher amounts of glue and more water in the glue, which extends working time. On the downside, gluing two sides results in thicker glue lines and a lot more squeeze out. You also use more glue than necessary. (We’d rather you put that extra glue to good use!) There you have it!
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charger holder for new drill/driver
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Well I happen to find out the hard way with this. I wanted to give 2x4s a try out to see if it would be some what safe for me to turn. Not sure if I didn't use enough glue or let the glue cure long enough. Started turning it using the roughing gouge I get half of it round. By the time I started on the tail stock end of the piece I had it up to about 1100 RPM roughly notch 9 on the lowest setting of the belts on the delta. As I put pressure on the gouge into the wood the next thing I know the piece basically snapped. Not in half but length wize with the glue joint. So the only thing I could think of is A I didn't use enough glue or B not enough cure time or option D both A and B. Either way lesson learned. I was using the live centers for this. Any thoughts on this one?
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Beautiful day here in south central Pennsylvania. Got my garlic planted and the leaves raked. Our Patriot Turners- @PostalTom added this to the general woodworking forum but it applies to turners, too. We all use glue! Thaks, Tom for a great discussion. Although he was away for a while, @Steve Krumanaker hasn't lost a bit of his turning talents. Steve gave us a peek at his birdhouse ornaments- He also posted one of his segmented birdhouses Please check out both his posts and give him your comments! @FrederickH posted an update on the African Blackwood Spill Vase. You may recall he originally wasn't too pleased with the color. After some time, the color has changed. Rick tells us more about it in this entry on his post- What’s Coming Up- In case you missed it, the David Ellsworth natural edge bowl demo is still available- Click on the above image for more details. Woodcraft is looking for volunteers for their turn pens for our troops. If you live near a Woodcraft store, you can participate at the store. You can also turn a pen at home a get it to the store. Woodcraft will give you a pen kit for each one you turn. It's a win-win all the way around! More information is available here- https://www.woodcraft.com/blog_entries/woodcraft-seeks-volunteers-to-turn-pens-for-troops?fbclid=IwAR35Fn82vh63TcyeLqoO-nDXvWQbXAnC2D6kmfM9Ed-6OKUe0ku3PxKkq40# For The Newbies- Last week we included a short video from Lyle Jamieson on turning speed. Here's another author discussing the same subject- Sam Angelo put together a video describing how and when to use certain turning tools. Looking for a nice gift idea? The patterns are free and available from- https://www.woodworkersjournal.com/turned-spatula-and-spoon-pattern/ Expand Your Horizons- Carl Jacobson turned a large hollow vase. Notice the use of some of the recently available Easy Wood Tools @Jim from Easy Wood Tools . The new parting tool and the new larger hollowing tools. All are available at the Easy Wood Tools website. Mike Peace has a video demonstrating a bandsaw jig for processing logs. If you've ever tried to feed a round log through your bandsaw and had it grab, you'll appreciate this jig- New Turning Items- Looking for a new lathe? I have just the thing! If you use CBN wheels on your grinder, Ken Rizza (Woodturners Wonders) has a product that may help you extend the life of the wheel- While you are checking out the Slick Stick, look at their Outlet Products- https://woodturnerswonders.com/collections/outlet-products Ruth Niles has a new stopper specifically made for larger openings- Check out her website for more details- https://nilesbottlestoppers.com/product/cosmopolitan-ss-1000/ Everything Else- One turner we feature here often is Tim Yoder. Well Tim has some really big news! Looks like we will beeing lots more of his tremendous videos! Rick Turns list of Youtube turning videos from last week- I haven't had much time to be in the shop these last couple of week and when I did get there it was not all pleasant. As I mentioned before, I've been experimenting with soap/water soak on rough turned bowls. For the most part, the results have been very positive as far as cracking/splitting during the drying process. I'm also very please with the small amount of warping taking place. I made a bunch of small cherry test bowls. These were between 5" and 6" in diameter. After they reached moisture equilibrium I checked the roundness. The red circle is a tracing of the bowl opening and the pencil circle was drawn with a compass. Slightly warped but not much. Unfortunately, these two bowls had other ideas about what they were going to do- The one on the right may be salvageable with some sort of a creative embellishment. Before all this happened, I was have great fun with the finishing cuts on the outside of the bowls. I was comparing the the finish left from a freshly sharpened bowl gouge- using a shear scraping cut and a new carbide cutter on my full sized Easy Wood Tools finisher. Easy Wood Cutter- Bowl Gouge Pretty similar. Safe turning and stay well
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I have an idea that will involve turning acrylic glued to wood. What glue would you use to glue the two together?
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OK as a lot of you may know, I am a huge fan of Titebond and its family of glues. I use it quite a bit when I am making pieces to turn, especially for the tops I make. This does not require a lot of glue though, so the glue sits around for an extended period of time, which causes it to age and get clumpy, or at the very least, thicker than it was when I bought it. Can you add anything to the glue like say water, to get it flowing again without destroying the glue properties?? Thanks.
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Yesterday I got a tiny splinter in my finger. I kept putting up with it till this morning. I got my magnifying light and tweezers out and quickly found out I couldn't get it. It was tiny but hurt like a big one. Then I remembered something I saw on the web. To remove a wooden splinter, clean the area and apply wood glue. Let it dry until it is like a new layer of skin. Then peel it off and the splinter will come out with the glue. I did this with NO expectations because the splinter was so small. It worked! I can't say it would work on a big one or an embedded big one. It sure worked for me.
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I saw an interesting way to glue a cracked board. The piece was cracked at the end with a crack about 8 inches long. The guy had opened it just enough to get a piece of dental floss thru. He put glue in and on the crack and ran the floss back and forth to spread the glue thru the crack. I will have to try this one, I think it can work.
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Some basic gluing videos by one of the PopWood survivors https://www.popularwoodworking.com/experts-guide-to-gluing-clamping-wood/?fbclid=IwAR02zssWUnzXJClxG3seSDmLnE8QffcD-ynNyC2a0KlaHm3xmq3kOVr7o5Y
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Is TB III good for PT wood joints? Thanks Gary
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This shameless endorsement could have gone under the tools or tip section but I’m going to stick it up here. I don’t readily endorse products but this one is worthy. A couple of weeks ago, I bought two 16 ounce Glu-bots and they are nothing short of phenomenal. At $8 each they reduce the mess of glue and speeds up a glue up. The Glu-bot comes with an edge spreader but I haven’t used it yet. The glue siphons back into the main bottle and It also comes with a soft cap that keeps the tip clean. I have TBII in one and TBIII in the other.
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Folks, I was perusing one of my favorite woodworking tools sites, and found a bottle of glue, liquid hide. I have always known about liquid hide, or hide that you would heat up in a glue pot, the one benefit I always knew about was you can repair work that was joined with hide glue, you can heat it up and the joint will release and repairs are possible. One of the benefits I did not know about, is this quote: Doing some more indepth research I found that while it's always a good thing to clean up the glue from the surface of your work, if you miss any with hide glue, it does dry transparent, and as long as you are not using stain, but a clear type finish, it's really no worry as the dried hide glue blends very well with natural wood and natural finishes. It also sounds like there is a much longer open time for assembly, in chair making that is a very desirable benefit, getting all those parts coated and assembled can be stressful. All that being said, does anyone else have any experience with hide glue? Benefits, pitfalls? Here is the glue I was previewing, a bit pricey, but perhaps hide glue just is. Oh ya, one more thing, with this liquid hide glue you don't have to worry about glue pots, since it's already liquifide. Here is the source I am reading about now: https://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/store/item/MS-OLDBROWN.XX
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I am to groove a solid woood assembly for 3/4" plywood that is actually around .722 to .725. I have found that in Mortise and Tenon joints I alwasy size the tenon .01 smaller than the mortise to allow gule to set up in the joint properly and not get squeezed out. Now comes the dadio joint. If I create the joint a .730 am I defeating my self? That would be +.008 to + .005. Still quite tight fit but is that enough to allow the glue to properly work? Also this is a cross grain joint on veneer plywood. The long grain is 90Deg to each other. Plywood being stable Should I be concerned with expansion and contraction. In the past I set the dadio tight or .725 or 0.000 to .003 loose. That once pounded in squezzed out some glue but has held for years. However that was a plywood to plywood joint. I doubt you could ever see .005 to .008 gap at the intersection but it will be glue tight to the top of the groove. Leaving a little wiggle room on the bottom (hidden). Does the fact that plywood into solid wood change anything?
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I'm fixing some exterior window trim which is water damaged. The window doesn't get any protection from the elements. I replaced the trim over 15 years ago and used wood. Rain water goes where it wants to so this time I'm going to use Azek brand PVC. I've used lots of PVC on the exterior of the house to replace window sill nosings and corner trim boards. The window trim boards are 1 inch thick. I've got a lot of 1/2" thick PVC and would like to laminate the 1/2" pieces to make the 1" thick pieces. I know that Azek has a PVC glue but the reviews I have seen are mixed. Some folks use regular plumbing PVC glue. There are adhesives and solvent based products that weld/bond the PVC to itself. I would like to get a good weld/bond that will seal out water. Anybody have any experience with this and can recommend product(s)?
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