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Found 40 results

  1. Pat Meeuwissen

    Router technique??

    Guys, I want to inlay a circle base into this shape how can I route a round rabbet on the inside of this shape?
  2. It worked great for regular size routers then made a larger size hole for the Porter Cable big dog. And it had a slight vibration with that much horse power.. I think I made this in about 2003. I saw this contraption in a popular mechanics many years ago. All it takes to build is some smooth rods, a few pieces of all thread and some nuts and bolts. But this is my most used router and how it is mounted I will not sell this idea to anyone.. You will have to come up with your own invention. Its not near as expensive to build one of these setups..This one I noticed is leaning a little but that don't cause no problems... I do wear my heavy leather gloves when in use... I have it mounted on my 12" table saw....
  3. I had a friend stop by today wanting some arched raised panel doors made. Looks like I’m in the market for a template but can’t decide which one to buy so I’ll ask my good friends here. Any of y’all bought a template that you love? What kind is it?
  4. Cliff

    FINALLY some order

    It's been years. I have put up with a cluttered sloppy mess of bits in pill bottles poly wrappers making this drawer a complete unworkable disaster. Finally I got fed up with the madness and drilled a few holes in a hunk of ply I've seen People pooh pooh those router bit collections ( see the ones in red) I bought one for 30 sumpin bucks at a show and have never regretted it. I use the daylights outta them.
  5. What is the difference from a mortise router bit and a spiral up cut for box joints? Can they both be used to make a box joint?
  6. John Morris

    Goodbye to Great Machines

    I'll post images of my beloved machines I am parting with to make way for a new adventure in woodworking. I need to free up space, and head in a new direction for me. I already shedded my bandsaw, router table, and now my trusty ol Grizz 12" 5hp. She served us well. New owner will be here in a few minutes, but for now, take a bow sweetheart, you served us well over the last 20 years! My router table walked out of here on Friday, minus the tools of course. It was another great machine, I made many raised panel doors on it, swung some big cutters on it with my PC 7518 bolted up under, and I shaped a few beautiful sculpted rockers on it. The people I am meeting while performing this task has been a wonderful experience, the gent who came and left with my table, is from Mexico, he builds Aztec flutes and Aztec drums, he showed me his work and it's absolutely beautiful, we sat and talked woodworking, about his hometown of Durango Mexico, and about his family, and mine, and we traded tips for woodworking, his name is Oscar, great guy. I was happy to see my table go to him. He is starting his own business, from his home, building his instruments. My bandsaw, it went to a woodworker from Orange County, the other county over from us, another good guy, a woodworker who is starting his own shop, and he was very happy with my 14" BS with 6" riser. I made another friend in him, as a matter of fact, he signed up here on TPW, @JohnM. This is a big step for me, us, my family, but I am diving in with all three feet, and ready for my new adventure in a downsized shop, making my beloved chairs and shaker crafts. Thanks for following along!
  7. This is the Rob Corson dowel hinge. With a bullnose or ball router bit on a router table the size of the dowel, route a 1/4 round slot in the back of lid and back of box. Set the fence at the center of the bit diameter and run the top and the box through. The fence can be set in or out to suit the particular box and how wide the lid opens. Take a dowel the same size as the router bit and cut lengths to suit the length of the box, they can be the same length or different lengths. Drill a hole in the center of the dowel the size of the pin. The pin can be metal rod, or wooden dowels. Assemble the dowels on the rod, and adjust to the length of the box,marking the positions of the dowel segments on the box and the top. Put a little glue on every other segment on the box. MAKE SURE THE GLUE HAS ROOM TO SQUEEZE OUT AND NOT SQUEEZE INTO THE NEXT DOWEL SPACE. Carefully lay the assembled dowel hinge onto the glue. Carefully set the top on and lightly clamp down When the glue is dry lift off the top and spin the every other dowel. Then apply a small amount of glue onto the free spinning segments of dowels allowing for squeeze out of the glue. carefully set the top on and clamp lightly. Allow the glue to dry. After the glue has set, gently open the box. The Joy you feel when the box opens is beyond description, the sinking feeling if it doesn't is beyond printing. Only had one that didn't open, and I have done a lot of them. You can also wax the pin,if you so desire. Herb
  8. Well my carpenter skills are being called up yet again to build some furniture for our Land Surveyors Field Office. I have been tasked to build a set of 6 lockers to house each crews equipment, the equipment consists of levels, transits, GPS equipment, radios, and other misc gadgetry that we need to get our job done. These lockers will be locked, and the shelves will be adjustable with one fixed shelf towards the bottom quarter of each locker. Here is a overall drawing I made just to get my material list together and to create a cut-list. The ply I am using is really good quality, some of you may remember the crud I used to build the Surveyor's trucks boxes, it was pure crud. I told the command that if they want me to build more for them, I need to have good material, so I was able to get this 3/4 Maple ply that is very tight in ply's, voids are rare, and a pleasure to use. Also, the ply is pre-finished, it has a wonderful factory satin clear coat both sides, so I do not have to finish these cabinets but for some of the trim and face-frame. The pre-finished was an extra 15 dollars per sheet, we purchased 16 sheets, do the math and its only 250 dollars more, that's half a days wages for me, and it would take me much more time than that to finish the cabinets as we normally would. I ripped down the sheets to 24" each, this ply is great to work with in another way as well, they measure 48.5" by 96.5" leaving extra to trim off bad edges created during travel and to also get a full 24" width on the table saw. After I ripped down the sheets, I had to cut them down to 80.5" as the lockers will sit on a 3.5" toe kick frame, we'll have an over all height of 7' per my drawing. I made the cross cuts on my CMS, cut it once, then flipped it over to cut the rest of the way, it worked great. Typically I'd set my straight edge up on the full 4' by 8' sheet and cut the length with my Skil saw, but I wanted the cleaner cut that the CMS gives, so I chose to rip the sheets down first, then finish the cross cut length on the CMS. 1st cut Flip and ready for the 2nd cut I assembled the first locker in no time, I am building two lockers at once, two lockers will be in one unit, each unit at 48" wide. I did not take pics of the assembly of the case, sorry, I'll get some on the next case. The pic below show the back panel I am installing, it is 1/2" thick, and I am using it to square up the case, I use the factory edge to secure one side of the case, then I use the end factory edge to square up the top, or bottom, doesn't matter. This way I have a case that is squared up to the back panel, it's very convenient to use this method when working with large case work, as the case can be floppy and racky. I left the back panel run wild, once the case was squared up to the back panel, I used a flush cutting bit to cut the end off, and everything was perfect, I pulled my diagonals with my tape measure and everything was spot on, both sides. Once the end was cut, I screwed it in place as well. This locker is almost done, I have the oak face frame secured, no images sorry, the divider installed, and now I need to route the grooves for the shelf standards. The doors soon to come, but I'll do the doors all at once, after all three 48" wide units are complete and installed. I have three days to complete three units, we'll see, but it's looking good. See ya'll tomorrow with more progress shots.
  9. PostalTom

    Cheap Router Bit Storage

    My first router table was an over-engineered bench top affair. (Ever hear the saying that an elephant is a mouse built to government specifications? Well, I'm that guy.) I didn't have a sophisticated system to store my bits, so I used empty prescription bottles. No way the plastic would damage the edge of the bit, the bit was protected from damage by contacting anything else in the box or drawer into which the bit was very carefully placed, , and the bottles were free. A piece of masking tape took care of labeling. Downside was that most of the bottles not transparent, so a lot of picking up and reading the label was involved. Worked good until I built my current router table, and started using blocks to hold each bit.
  10. Just came across this...CPO clearance if anyone is interested... https://www.cpooutlets.com/bosch-1617evstb-2-1-4-hp-fixed-base-electronic-router-and-router-table-base/bshn1617evstb,default,pd.html Bosch 1617 w/router table base...10% off. Not bad when you consider 10% off, no sales tax, and free shipping. I didn't do a street price comparison, so do your own research...
  11. Good morning to all the mothers out there. I'm in the market to buy a set of these bits, I'm leaning towards the Whiteside 470 set but was looking to see if there was any others that might be good as well? Any special place to buy to get a good deal would be really appreciated. Pat
  12. Grandpadave52

    Past Picks First Showing

    Earlier this spring I made a few picks at yard sales and the "Flea Market Warehouse." Pictures were taken, but things got busy with the wreck, dealing with the that, kids activities, mowing, mower repair, more mowing, etc. well you get the idea... Anyways, since things are a little less hectic, a few more shots of the every growing "treasure trove." I'll try to be considerate and only post a couple threads a day less I bore you...Thanks for looking. These items were in the Craftsman Router case below...$2...I've hidden the router plate inserts from myself since this picture...could use them since I misplaced the ones that came with my router table The Massey-Ferguson magnetic clip was an extra 75 cents. It's from an area dealership from back in the 60's-70's...compliments my John Deere smalls collection I had an old school Craftsman router which needed a case...fit perfectly in this one...it also needed the base and collet wrench This collection set me back $13.25 with tax. Like new, 1/4" drive Craftsman ratchet, with full set of 1/4" deep metric sockets, the extension and a shallow well, 1/4" dr. 10 mm socket...The picture of them is after clean-up and time at the buffer; T-15 Craftsman driver...came in handy during the Jeep Ignition switch replacement; Kobalt 10" pipe wrench with minimal use; picture of it is after clean-up; a coupe more collet wrenches for ???; faucet wrench; the rust on the handle swing has been removed and polished since this; Stanley 3 pc chisel set minus the 1" The shaft stop collar has a 5/8" bore ID...I've used it in a couple of temporary fashions, but it became a valuable asset when I figured out how it could be used to repair a mower deck idler arm. I bought a couple more from the local Fastenal, welded to the idler arm and fixed a poor design, plaguing problem on my J.D. F510...Saved about $35 and works better. The stud is 5/16" NC threads with a 7/16" hex...I'll use it for something sooner or later. Will need a little work; the 3/4" might have been used to remove siding nails, IDK; other than the edges, both still have the protective varnish on the shafts
  13. Good video. Glen did a seminar last spring for the Cincinnati Woodworking Club and included techniques such as this.
  14. Recently Infinity tools brought out a mutiradius router bit. It will cut 1/16" r.1/8" r.,, and 1/4" r.. Also 1/16+1/8r, 1/16+1/8+1/4"r. And a 1/4"bead,+ 1/8r., and a 1/4" bead,+1/8" r, +1/16'r. Also a 1/4" bead,+ 1/8"r, +1/16" bead. That is 8 different profiles and there might be more. I cut some test cuts in a piede of hard white oak scrap and it cut nice and smooth no burns. The the higher profiles I cut in some Doug fir 2X material. It cost $48. including shipping. ,which amounts to $6.00 per profile and maybe less,which is not bad. Here are some pictures, apologies for the blurry ones.
  15. kmealy

    Mortising?

    I'm trying to decide what I want to do about efficient mortises Fe$tool Domino is out of the question unless I'd get a super deal on one. I don't see that happening. Same for a dedicated mortising machine. Super fast, though. I attended a Glen Huey seminar last spring and PopWood recently reposted an old video of his using the same technique. Basically a plunge router with a fence. I do see a lot of scorch marks on his faces. Matthias' Pantarouter is nice, but overkill for me. Thinking of making a sliding horizontal router jig, but have not looked up the pattern in a recent Wood magazine, or even sure I have it. I have a "Bead Lock" that I've used for a few things. It has inserts to drill the overlapping holes, then another to guide a chisel square. Maybe too slow for a large number of them. Stock gets expensive for a large number of them, and custom router bits to make the stock crazy expensive. Hand mortising, again, too slow (at least at my skill level) Then it occurred to me, my Shopsmith has a router chuck and I could use it to plunge out the mortises. Hmm. What to do, what to do? Are there other options I have not considered?
  16. Trying to save some money ....... I THINK. Is there a 1/2" collet and necessary accessories that will fit the B&D 11/4 hp, Type 1, CAT 7614 router(it still works great). I find no reference through parts lists, so that may be the answer. but woodworkers, like any other group of like minded folks usually find that way to adapt, improvise and overcome obstacles. OR, is it not worth the money to try adapting this old lunker. Regs, Tim
  17. I just stumbled upon a used ShopSmith router table where a router can be mounted under or over the table.
  18. New member here and in need of help ASAP. I have an old black and decker 1hp hand held router and can't seem to get the collet to release the bit, using two wrenches. When I hold a wrench on the bottom nut and try loosen the top nut on the collet the shaft spins and the collet doesn't loosen. Anyone have any advice??
  19. Ron Altier

    Oh no, router adj gone

    I have been working on a cross for my grandson's confirmation. I've cut and glued up some Yellow Hart and Purple Hart. Did some sanding and then to the table router, small table top from Sears. Set it up and started to adjust the height. Something fell out of the adjustment and it all came apart. It is old, but i liked it. I found a spring and during reassemble, I lost the spring, e ring and a gear. I know not where. I give up. I am thinking about a Porter Cable replacement, I don't want any more Sears tools. And so it goes.
  20. Is there a link or can someone give me information on a good Wood Router. I'm looking into building a router table and mounting it so I can make kitchen raised door panels and more. Or your own personal experience with a good router. How big a router I would need.
  21. I inherited from my dad a Black and Decker 7614 Router, Type 1, 1-1/2 HP, 25,000 RPM, 9.0 amps, that runs exceptionally well. I would like to find a Straight and Circular Guide that fits this router. Any suggestions on a Black and Decker or any other brand that might be a fit?
  22. Good morning all. Was working on some fluted columns for my daughters house yesterday with a Bosch 1617EVS router. I turned the router over (plate up) and swapped out the bit. Now when I plug in the router and go to switch it on, it does nothing. I know there is power getting to the tool and can state with 100% certainty there is no way this machine should be worn out. So two things; I'm now in the market for a new router so any thoughts on a good replacement? I've been happy with Bosch in the past, but based on this router not sure I would buy another one of their products. Second, anyone have experience sending in one of these to be fixed? Is it expensive? I really don't want to spend $100 plus to get this one fixed when a new tool can be purchased for a bit more. Thanks.
  23. Before I fall into the Tim "The Tool Man" Taylor I thought I would ask here. My router has variable speed. Does anyone have a good formula or memory jogger as to when to use which speed? I did a little round over work this past weekend and discovered all the cuts with the grain were smooth and crisp and all the across the grain cuts were burnt. Maybe it's the operator's head-space and timing issue.
  24. John Morris

    CNC Router Plans

    A great website to get your feet wet for the DIY CNC router builder, and free plans!
  25. John Morris

    CNC Woodworking

    After reading @Steve Krumanaker blog on his laser, it has interested me greatly, but on the cnc router level. But Steve's blog really got me thinking on this. Been looking at CNC Router home made plans and there is a whole community out there for this type of do-it-yourself and they are very supportive of one another, very open source, free plans, open source software, and just a neat community altogether. Thanks Steve for showing me.

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