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Found 58 results

  1. I've finally decided to make a router table, and incorporate a lift (probably Jessem Rout-R or Mast-R). Most of the prefab router tables I see have the router centered on the table. This would seem too waste a lot of the surface area behind the router bit. What bit clearance do you have on your table, and would moving it back a bit improve the use?
  2. Version 1.0.0

    1 download

    This is a scanned document of the now defunct Workbench Magazine of this era. Permission was granted by the new Workbench Publication for The Patriot Woodworker community to copy and use the old Workbench Magazine at our pleasure, and for free distribution and re-use.
  3. View File Workbench Magazine March-April 1967 Spanish Style Table This is a scanned document of the now defunct Workbench Magazine of this era. Permission was granted by the new Workbench Publication for The Patriot Woodworker community to copy and use the old Workbench Magazine at our pleasure, and for free distribution and re-use. Submitter John Morris Submitted 05/03/2019 Category Furnishings  
  4. About a week ago I was building a set of stairs for my son's new place, when the old Craftsman router started to shake badly. I drove home and got the Triton from my router table, which fortunately is equipped with the same Lee Valley base, so it would work in the jig. It ALSO vibrated, so I exchanged the 1/4" shank bit for a 1/2" one. WHAT A DIFFERENCE! Later that night I dismantled the Craftsman and found that a wood chip had been sucked up into the fan, bending it badly and breaking off two of the blades. The vibration resulted in a crack across the 1/4" bit shaft, creating the problem with the Triton. The Craftsman has served me well... I've had it for well over 40 years! However, after hearing of many problems with the newer ones, I won't be buying another one. A small Bosch may be in my future. Not the clearest picture, but can you make out the two bottom lines? THOSE WERE THE DAYS! John
  5. I'm having trouble with my router Plunge Locking Lever not fully locking. There is nothing in the manual for repairing this is there a solution somebody can give me? Thanks Pat
  6. To make those shallow rabbets, here is the tool you can make yourself.
  7. Thanks to being in too big a hurry. Grooves off-center, tenons not centered or square. More cracks and gaps than a Plumber's College. Dug around, found a 3/8" straight cutter bit for the router. Re-set the fence as well Re-cut ALL the grooves i had made up. Then went to work on those tenons. Do have a few test fits going on. Will try to post a few pictures tomorrow.... HATE RE-WORK!
  8. I had to get a bunch of shelf-pin holes in the current cabinet I'm building. I used to use a piece of pegboard. a drill bit, and some masking tape. I threw out the particle board when I moved. So I looked into something a little more professional. Kreg only did 5mm and I have a bunch of 1/4" supports in stock. Rockler had a bunch of options, most of which need a special self-centering / depth stops. Well, then I found this one on half-price sale for the price of one of the drill bits. And it works for both 5mm and 1/4" pegs. It also seemed to make cleaner holes with my mortising bit than with the drill bits. Used it today and did 140 holes, 5 at a time. https://www.rockler.com/rockler-shelf-pin-routing-jig
  9. I am not in the market for a router table, I sold mine last fall, don't need one, but I just thought I'd share my amazement with what Shopsmith has available for our machines. I did not know they made a router table, very cool. Anyone own one? @Artie ? http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/catalog/rm_routertable.htm
  10. I have a Bosch 1604 my Dad gave me that I wish to use for a mini router table. My plan is to leave a roundover bit all set up to use when needed. In making my mock up I realized that the limiter appears to be built into the body of the router. So if I removed, as in grind it flat, this would allow me to extend the router shaft above the table far enough to do above table bit changes. My question, anyone taken one of these apart? Is something important below this I should not be screwing with? Here are a couple of pics with the arrow on the yellow tape pointing out the nub in question. Also model # and other info in case that matters.
  11. I took the saw off the Dewalt radial arm and built a plate to hold a router. Next I used a geared down forward-reverse motor and put it in the place of the hand crank back on the top rear that use to raise and lower the saw. I then mounted the forward -reverse switch under the table in front so I could raise and lower the router with my knees as I held the wood I was working on... So instead of on and off, it raises and lowers the router.. I quickly learned I needed some help so I wouldn't forget which knee made it go which direction...the reason for the up and down on each side... The glove is there to keep my head from banging on the end of the arm while concentrating on what the router and bit is doing. This set up did take away trying to free hand a router on certain task...
  12. Decided to make a computer desk and to repurpose what I had left from the drafting table. The legs & the frame have a new life as a bench. Made that awhile ago. That leaves me with a desk top, 1 1/8" thick, & drawers. I cut the top down to 26" and kept the length. I plan on cutting down the metal caps on the ends to keep it from warping. A round over on the front & a little angle on the end to save the hips. I took the cut off from the top to get my material for the legs. The base is leftovers from a door that I took apart and made some floating shelves. I can flip the board & hide the hole. Routed some slots in the leg for that decorative element & a round over to soften them up. Cut the tendons on the table saw & will clean those up with a chisel. I'll put a couple of cross braces in the dead space. Layout & cut the mortise. I'll cut a taper on the ends of the base to keep from stubbing my toes. TBC
  13. Guys, I want to inlay a circle base into this shape how can I route a round rabbet on the inside of this shape?
  14. It worked great for regular size routers then made a larger size hole for the Porter Cable big dog. And it had a slight vibration with that much horse power.. I think I made this in about 2003. I saw this contraption in a popular mechanics many years ago. All it takes to build is some smooth rods, a few pieces of all thread and some nuts and bolts. But this is my most used router and how it is mounted I will not sell this idea to anyone.. You will have to come up with your own invention. Its not near as expensive to build one of these setups..This one I noticed is leaning a little but that don't cause no problems... I do wear my heavy leather gloves when in use... I have it mounted on my 12" table saw....
  15. I had a friend stop by today wanting some arched raised panel doors made. Looks like I’m in the market for a template but can’t decide which one to buy so I’ll ask my good friends here. Any of y’all bought a template that you love? What kind is it?
  16. It's been years. I have put up with a cluttered sloppy mess of bits in pill bottles poly wrappers making this drawer a complete unworkable disaster. Finally I got fed up with the madness and drilled a few holes in a hunk of ply I've seen People pooh pooh those router bit collections ( see the ones in red) I bought one for 30 sumpin bucks at a show and have never regretted it. I use the daylights outta them.
  17. What is the difference from a mortise router bit and a spiral up cut for box joints? Can they both be used to make a box joint?
  18. I'll post images of my beloved machines I am parting with to make way for a new adventure in woodworking. I need to free up space, and head in a new direction for me. I already shedded my bandsaw, router table, and now my trusty ol Grizz 12" 5hp. She served us well. New owner will be here in a few minutes, but for now, take a bow sweetheart, you served us well over the last 20 years! My router table walked out of here on Friday, minus the tools of course. It was another great machine, I made many raised panel doors on it, swung some big cutters on it with my PC 7518 bolted up under, and I shaped a few beautiful sculpted rockers on it. The people I am meeting while performing this task has been a wonderful experience, the gent who came and left with my table, is from Mexico, he builds Aztec flutes and Aztec drums, he showed me his work and it's absolutely beautiful, we sat and talked woodworking, about his hometown of Durango Mexico, and about his family, and mine, and we traded tips for woodworking, his name is Oscar, great guy. I was happy to see my table go to him. He is starting his own business, from his home, building his instruments. My bandsaw, it went to a woodworker from Orange County, the other county over from us, another good guy, a woodworker who is starting his own shop, and he was very happy with my 14" BS with 6" riser. I made another friend in him, as a matter of fact, he signed up here on TPW, @JohnM. This is a big step for me, us, my family, but I am diving in with all three feet, and ready for my new adventure in a downsized shop, making my beloved chairs and shaker crafts. Thanks for following along!
  19. This is the Rob Corson dowel hinge. With a bullnose or ball router bit on a router table the size of the dowel, route a 1/4 round slot in the back of lid and back of box. Set the fence at the center of the bit diameter and run the top and the box through. The fence can be set in or out to suit the particular box and how wide the lid opens. Take a dowel the same size as the router bit and cut lengths to suit the length of the box, they can be the same length or different lengths. Drill a hole in the center of the dowel the size of the pin. The pin can be metal rod, or wooden dowels. Assemble the dowels on the rod, and adjust to the length of the box,marking the positions of the dowel segments on the box and the top. Put a little glue on every other segment on the box. MAKE SURE THE GLUE HAS ROOM TO SQUEEZE OUT AND NOT SQUEEZE INTO THE NEXT DOWEL SPACE. Carefully lay the assembled dowel hinge onto the glue. Carefully set the top on and lightly clamp down When the glue is dry lift off the top and spin the every other dowel. Then apply a small amount of glue onto the free spinning segments of dowels allowing for squeeze out of the glue. carefully set the top on and clamp lightly. Allow the glue to dry. After the glue has set, gently open the box. The Joy you feel when the box opens is beyond description, the sinking feeling if it doesn't is beyond printing. Only had one that didn't open, and I have done a lot of them. You can also wax the pin,if you so desire. Herb
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