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  1. I'm just getting started in this hobby, but one of the things I know I'll need for the projects* I want to build is a router and router table. My funds are modest, but I'd rather save my pennies for another month or two and get something which will be good for the long haul than just get whatever's on sale at the local big box. I do want quality, but I'm not big into bells and whistles. I generally prefer used and US-made to Cheap Chinese Crap, but good older equipment may be hard to find at a reasonable price and it's possible that I'll want or need some features that the older models may not
  2. Anyone using a sled like this? I like the clear plexi but wonder about using these when doing vertical router table cuts say for lock miter joint or drawer joints? https://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/vertex.html This came to mind when I received an Infinity Tools email boasting their vertical sled. Looked online and really don't see plans for building one at all. Infinity's sled is here https://www.infinitytools.com/vertical-router-sled-4576 I also figure that doing vertical cuts like this will require a sacrificial backer board to prevent tearout
  3. There was a guy on Woodnet many many years ago who machined a bowl cutting jig that mounted to the router which mounted onto the project. It rotated to form a change/bowl cutout... Anybody familiar with what I'm talking about?
  4. Bought one of the a few years ago. Any good places to go for user information. Cant remember if I have the manual or not. Thx?..
  5. After reading @Steve Krumanaker blog on his laser, it has interested me greatly, but on the cnc router level. But Steve's blog really got me thinking on this. Been looking at CNC Router home made plans and there is a whole community out there for this type of do-it-yourself and they are very supportive of one another, very open source, free plans, open source software, and just a neat community altogether. Thanks Steve for showing me.
  6. I have a Bosch 1604 my Dad gave me that I wish to use for a mini router table. My plan is to leave a roundover bit all set up to use when needed. In making my mock up I realized that the limiter appears to be built into the body of the router. So if I removed, as in grind it flat, this would allow me to extend the router shaft above the table far enough to do above table bit changes. My question, anyone taken one of these apart? Is something important below this I should not be screwing with? Here are a couple of pics with the arrow on the yellow tape pointing out the nub in
  7. In July, I posted a router-based method I used to remove the waste from hand cut hand-blind sockets (link). This involved orientating the boards vertically and routing into the end grain. This necessitated a rather clumsy piece of work-holding - which, as I explained at the time, was difficult to avoid as the end grain was not square to the sides, as is usual with drawer front. The bow fronted drawers created ends which were angled. With the usual square drawer fronts, both Bill and Roger on the forum preferred to place their boards flat on the bench and rest the route
  8. I've finally decided to make a router table, and incorporate a lift (probably Jessem Rout-R or Mast-R). Most of the prefab router tables I see have the router centered on the table. This would seem too waste a lot of the surface area behind the router bit. What bit clearance do you have on your table, and would moving it back a bit improve the use?
  9. Hmmm...do mine a bit differently.....no fancy jigs to build, nor fancy router bases to make... Did have to buy some goggles. I guess the vise could be called a jig... two lines, one for the dovetails themselves (base line?) the other sets where the base of the router is to stop....clamp the drawer front with the second line right at the top of the jaws.. I can either mark out the layout of the pins, or..just use the MK 1 eyeball, sighting down. Remove this from the vise, clamp to the bench top.. Hammer and chisel to clean up...use these pins t
  10. Version 1.0.0

    3 downloads

    This is a scanned document of the now defunct Workbench Magazine of this era. Permission was granted by the new Workbench Publication for The Patriot Woodworker community to copy and use the old Workbench Magazine at our pleasure, and for free distribution and re-use.
  11. View File Workbench Magazine March-April 1967 Spanish Style Table This is a scanned document of the now defunct Workbench Magazine of this era. Permission was granted by the new Workbench Publication for The Patriot Woodworker community to copy and use the old Workbench Magazine at our pleasure, and for free distribution and re-use. Submitter John Morris Submitted 05/03/2019 Category Furnishings
  12. About a week ago I was building a set of stairs for my son's new place, when the old Craftsman router started to shake badly. I drove home and got the Triton from my router table, which fortunately is equipped with the same Lee Valley base, so it would work in the jig. It ALSO vibrated, so I exchanged the 1/4" shank bit for a 1/2" one. WHAT A DIFFERENCE! Later that night I dismantled the Craftsman and found that a wood chip had been sucked up into the fan, bending it badly and breaking off two of the blades. The vibration resulted in a crack across the 1/4" bit shaft, creating the problem with
  13. I'm having trouble with my router Plunge Locking Lever not fully locking. There is nothing in the manual for repairing this is there a solution somebody can give me? Thanks Pat
  14. To make those shallow rabbets, here is the tool you can make yourself.
  15. Thanks to being in too big a hurry. Grooves off-center, tenons not centered or square. More cracks and gaps than a Plumber's College. Dug around, found a 3/8" straight cutter bit for the router. Re-set the fence as well Re-cut ALL the grooves i had made up. Then went to work on those tenons. Do have a few test fits going on. Will try to post a few pictures tomorrow.... HATE RE-WORK!
  16. I had to get a bunch of shelf-pin holes in the current cabinet I'm building. I used to use a piece of pegboard. a drill bit, and some masking tape. I threw out the particle board when I moved. So I looked into something a little more professional. Kreg only did 5mm and I have a bunch of 1/4" supports in stock. Rockler had a bunch of options, most of which need a special self-centering / depth stops. Well, then I found this one on half-price sale for the price of one of the drill bits. And it works for both 5mm and 1/4" pegs. It also seemed to make cleaner holes with my mortising bit
  17. I am not in the market for a router table, I sold mine last fall, don't need one, but I just thought I'd share my amazement with what Shopsmith has available for our machines. I did not know they made a router table, very cool. Anyone own one? @Artie ? http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/catalog/rm_routertable.htm
  18. I took the saw off the Dewalt radial arm and built a plate to hold a router. Next I used a geared down forward-reverse motor and put it in the place of the hand crank back on the top rear that use to raise and lower the saw. I then mounted the forward -reverse switch under the table in front so I could raise and lower the router with my knees as I held the wood I was working on... So instead of on and off, it raises and lowers the router.. I quickly learned I needed some help so I wouldn't forget which knee made it go which direction...the reason for the up and down on each side... The
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