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Found 70 results

  1. Ok, might as well get started....this all came about because of a royal mess ( aka cluster-....) of tools piled up, and getting dusty and rusty.. yeah... So..have been going through all the tools, deciding which to keep handy, and which to stash....(cleaned up down in the Tool threads.) Picked up a few pine boards the other day... Ten 1 x 10 x 4' planks....not the best looking ones on the pallet...but, will do for a tool cabinet build... A few 1 x 4s as well. Handsome, ain't they....$45.75 counting tax.... So, today..the pick of the litter..4 planks of 1 x 10 were hauled to the shop....goal WAS to build a cabinet 3' wide, by 4' tall...WAS...until I stood one of the up, where the cabinet will go... Sitting on a 3' tall toolbench....another 4' would have been a bit too tall....design change! so that instead of 4' tall, it will be 3' tall...yet still 3' wide..needed to trim the worst ends of the 4 planks...one even split after the saw made the cut.. Not up for that much Cardio, today....besides.this is a Vintage SKIL saw... Should be enough to do this job... Once they were all trimmed down to 36", time for the jointer. . Except this Jointer was New in the box about 1905 Stanley No. 7c, type 9 needed the edges jointed for a BIG glue up....first was the start of the mess..and the cussing.. Have 4 planks to glue up, and I didn't want 2 to fly apart while adding the next one..problem was finding long enough cauls....and clamps.... Came out to 36 x 37"....glue lines will be vertical, once the glue is cured....looks like I am done, for the day. Need to decide how deep to make the box itself....a 1 x 10 may not quite do it....may glue those 1x4s to the four 1 x 10s for the box......then decide how to join the corners, and the back to the box.....making me head hurt, Imagine trying to cut the ends square on this "little" panel... Stay tuned...this might take a day..or three
  2. After 27 years the plastic shop sink developed a leak. Not something I wanted to repair and it looks terrible inside anyway. So I removed the old cabinet / sink. Wondering what was I thinking when I built it. I used a hollow core door for the one side??? Really? Not much was proofed against water, yeah and 27 years showed me the error of that idea. Fixture once cleaned up was still good, so we can keep that. Had another sink I got from somewhere for free, it will do. Unlike the other sink this one has no lip over so I had to build the cabinet close to the size and stand off about 1/16 inch all around to account for the sink not being exact square in shape. Figures. Someone threw away a truck toolbox top at work. Cut it down to size and squared it up. The diamond plate makes a nice back splash and not much will bother it in the way of chemiclas. Since I am in this corner I opened up the wall an got started on working my way down the entire length of the shop replacing the pegboard with OSB. Adding some electrical outlets as I go. For the moment I am only coming out about 4 feet. Just enough to get the sink done and the shop back in working order. So I got started here: old sink and the newish sink Moved on and closed up the wall once I added a stud close to the corner, reducing the distance between studs to 16 inchs. Whole shop is 24 inches, I didn't build it but I will fix it. Got it prepped for paint. At the bottom I added a u channel of flashing to protect the OSB from mositure. Also caulked the bottom of the OSB, just to make sure. Used oil based primer to seal the wall up. Then a couple coats of latex from the closet for the deck. Have plenty so I am using it up. Dry fitted the diamond plate and put insulation on the plumbing. So after a weeks worth of work this is where I am so far.
  3. View File Workbench Magazine July-August 1967 Versatile Apothocary Chest Submitter John Morris Submitted 03/21/2020 Category Furnishings  
  4. Not mu plans but something to do. See any flaws? Haven't looked over them yet....
  5. Among several other projects that I have slotted for this winter this one is a priority. I threw this together in 2011 when the previous metal medicine cabinet I had was too wide and not deep enough to store soap and paper towels. At the time I used some scrap MDF from cabinets I got from a closed Hollywood Video store. Yeah MNDF and water don't play well together. Nor did my doors do well, already had to fix twice so I have had enough screwing around. Here is old cabinet: Now we are using some plywood, nothing fancy just some scrap from the deck closet build. I edge banded the center piece because it will show. The rest is covered by the face frame so no need. The back is ¼ plywood also left over from another project. Once I had the cabinet assembled I dry fitted it to the back and routed around the unit to get a exact cut. Fits perfect, good just like it is supposed to. Laid out screw holes and dry fitted it again. Nice fit, all is good gave it a coat of poly last night before I closed shop for the night. Did use my new Wood River block plane to chamfer the outer edges. And my new to me Craftsmen Plane to do the face frame up nice. This evening I started in the doors. Friend gave me two pieces of nice 1x6x8 premium pine and they match well so I used them. Not sure what type of joint this is called, maybe lap joint? Either way I rarely use this type of joint and after watching @steven newman do all these dovetail joints, by hand. I decided I needed to up my game. Did NOT do them by hand. Broke out my tenon jig and got to work. Progress was slow, took my time and endeavored to get it spot on. It's okay, they fit tight enough I had to push them together with some effort. Plus they were square when I dry fitted. Will glue them up tomorrow and see how it works out. I graded the joint fit as a solid “B”, improvement can be made but for this shop project let's go with good enough.
  6. I'm making cabinet doors for my son. I have 3/16" plywood. Do you think making 1/4" dado joints are to wide. Should I consider the 1/16" for expansion? Or is that too much? I'm doing a mortise & tension joint on the corners. It would make it so much easier doing the 1/4". I try to get 1/4" plywood when I do my doors but all these odd size plywoods anymore.
  7. I showed the glue up for this in an earlier post. Got it all put together yesterday and is now in its place in the kitchen. I have not had time to do the drawers as yet. It will have 2 drawers on slides and 2 small box drawers accessible from either side. The center cubby is for cook books.
  8. Here is the entertainment cabinet that I finished made out of golden oak. We decided that we wanted a electric fireplace in the cabinet. We used to heat with wood but with the mess and everything we no longer use a wood burner. So we decided a electric fireplace is the next best thing.
  9. I am in search of any project or lumber/slab that is Butternut or made primarily from Butternut. I need some project butternut images to install in our wiki page for Butternut, would anyone here like to donate an image(s) of your own work to our wiki? A full reference and credit to you and or your website will be shown. Wiki | Butternut THEPATRIOTWOODWIKI.ORG Wiki If you would like to share your project made from Butternut with us, I would like to use your image in our wiki. Please keep in mind that images used in our wiki become open source and free for use by the public as our wiki is completely open source and in alignment with these copyright rules. Wiki | Copyrights and License THEPATRIOTWOODWIKI.ORG Wiki Thanks in advance for your time, any images of butternut are needed, slabs, finished work, boards, etc.
  10. For my latest project building some pine cabinets for a customer of mine, he has requested that the upper cabinet has a sawtooth shelf support system. He loves the old timey look it offers, and I like it too. Sawtooth Shelf supports come in various sizes, various angles are used for aesthetics, and you are not even regulated to sawtooth configurations, you can angle the notches at virtually any angle you like. It appears the builder of the supports in this image to the left angled their notches at around 15 degrees. We angled ours at 45 degrees. So yesterday I took to laying out and cutting the sawtooth adjustable shelve supports. I did not use any specific dimensions for the layout as you'll see, I just went with what I thought would work, and offer enough strength for the heaviest of loads in my customers cabinet. In our case the upper cabinet is 41" tall with an inside height of 35 inches. So I ripped down 4 pieces of pine at 2" in width and I cross cut them on my miter saw at 36 inches in length just to allow for some custom fitting after they are made. It is very important to make sure that the entire operation is done while the 4 support blanks are grouped as one, this way you are ensured that when the supports are installed, the notches will be directly across from each other and you will not have wobbly shelves due to mis-aligned sawtooth notches. So to keep my orientation good, I bundled them together and secured them with blue tape, I then trimmed them together so we have a reference point that agrees with all the blanks. Next I laid out the notches with a simple marking square, I did not even bother with measuring as the eye will never be able to tell if one notch is a 1/6" different from the next, and since they are all ganged up together, the notches will be directly across from each other once installed in the cabinet, so they will all be off a tad equally. For this one I laid them out using the default 45 degrees available on this square, and I drew the line to what I felt was a comfortable distance about 1 1/2" long at 45 degrees. The numbers on the rule mean absolutely nothing so don't get hung up on the numbers. Flip the square for the 90 degree lines and intersect them. Continue this layout procedure all the way down the board. By the way, I marked lines across the board at 6" from the top, and 6" from the bottom, since it is highly unlikely a shelf would be placed that close to the top or bottom of the cabinet. So I started my layout at 6" from the top, and worked my way down to the bottom to the 6" mark. It only took a few minutes to get my layout lines down and ready for the table saw. I did my 45 degree cuts first, I don't know why, it just moved me to do them first for some reason. You must take care not to let the kerf of the blade float into the other layout line, or you'll have some very ugly notches. Then I set the blade at 90 degrees and commenced to cutting those lines, again, just because you have lines that are (insert dimension here) long, it does not mean you can set your blade at that height, you need to stay away from the layout line at the intersections or the points, or you'll have a very messed up looking point, we are going to clean that area up next to form a nice point. By the way I am using my factory provided table saw miter with a backer board for the above operation. A close up of the finished table saw operation will show you why I stated to stay away from the tip of the notches! If you cut to the tip, you will intersect the blade kerfs and it will cause some irreversible damage to your nice notches. Next I took the gang of 4 to the bandsaw and finished up the notches to intersect the tips of the notches nicely. I happened to have my 3/4" resaw blade on the BS so I just left it on there, and it worked out great. You'll notice the small problem I ran into, I could only finish the notches near the ends of the boards as the other end of the bundle would hit the yolk on the BS. So I could not get to the middle of the shelf supports to clean them up by the bandsaw. So to finish the cut on the notches near the center of the bundle, I took to a gents saw and a chisel and finished them up that way. I clamped the boards down to the bench for two reasons, first to secure them obviously, second, I wanted them all to be flush so when we finish up the notches by hand, they will be cut the exact same depth. Pare down to the intersecting lines after you have cut them with the saw. To finish them up and make my sawtooths look nice and clean, I ripped a 45 into a strip of pine and wrapped sand paper around it and used it like a sanding file of sorts to get right down in there and make them look nice and crisp. The last step I took is to cut the tips of the teeth off. I feel that if we did not do this, they would just get knocked off during normal use anyway (and, that is just the way they are supposed to look judging by other cabinets I researched.) Notice the grain direction in relation to the tips in the photo above, that is just asking for trouble for those points to be knocked off during use. I took the ganged up boards, back over to the table saw and I ripped a 1/4" off the teeth, leaving a net width of 1 3/4" from when we started at 2" at the beginning of our shelf support project. I only cut two boards deep at a time, since I have a 12" blade on my TS I could have done the entire stack in one pass, but I know that most woodworkers run a 10" blade on their TS and I was not sure if a 10" blade could cut 3" stack of boards in one pass so for the sake of our readers, I did it in two passes. Cut one side and flip it over, and cut the other. And now we have some nice looking sawtooth shelf supports!!! The only thing we need to do is cut 4 sticks of pine 45'd at both ends since I have two shelfs going in to the cabinet, we need two supports for each shelf. I will cut those sticks once the vertical supports are in place in the cabinet. Total time for these shelf supports were 1 hour. And we have some very strong, nice looking supports that will add an awe factor to any case project you may have.
  11. As I mentioned before I've bought and sold plenty of tools over the years but the shop has become compressed and I need to find those lost corners and footage that can be there if I look hard enough. Looking for a good ideal on a cordless gun, charger plus a way to house nail and staple guns...any photos would be great. This has to go on the wall and be compressed to get the most out of the smallest cabinet..thx
  12. Some basic gluing videos by one of the PopWood survivors https://www.popularwoodworking.com/experts-guide-to-gluing-clamping-wood/?fbclid=IwAR02zssWUnzXJClxG3seSDmLnE8QffcD-ynNyC2a0KlaHm3xmq3kOVr7o5Y
  13. Years ago I made a cabinet for a local customer, who became my friend. I have the cabinet in our gallery here. I put out the call on Facebook to see if any of my local buddies had a truck leaf spring I could have to build a Froe with. My buddy who I made this cabinet for answered back with a big yes. He is restoring his 1942 Ford Jeep he's had since he was a teen and he purchased new springs. He's 69 years old today. My son and I went over to his home this morning to pick up my leaf spring and while there I found the cabinet I built right where I installed it a few years ago. Just thought I'd take a couple pictures of it this morning and show it off here, I still love this piece. This project was one of those times I really hated seeing one leave my shop. He collects Pewter Molds among many other interests. Curly Maple purchased from Bob Kloes Lumber, dyed with Transfast Colonial Maple, one coat of BLO, one coat of shellac, and one coat of oil based varnish. I don't remember the cut of shellac I used, and I don't remember the varnish brand.
  14. My Grandad always said: "As one door closes, another always opens" He was a lovely man, but a terrible cabinet maker. Not really said by my grandad, but I saw this and thought it was funny.
  15. For those who have made your own kitchen cabinets, did you do any finishing to the inside. Uppers would surely want some type of finish as you stare straight into them when opened. My lower cabinets, except for under the sink will all be drawers - I cannot really see the need for finishing the interiors of these. So, what type of finish is best for the interiors and drawers? FWIW, SWMBO wants the cabinets painted... so they will be painted.
  16. Our local Elks lodge recently did a minor renovation to their kitchen and waitress area. Part of that renovation was the construction of five new cabinets to blend in with their existing units. Today, I’ll deliver the final base unit that will be installed in the waitress area. I’m pretty sick of building cabinets right now.
  17. Just what the title says. My issues are: 1) I don’t know how to handle the expansion of the back, and 2) I want to hang the cabinet, so the back has to handle the weight of a bunch of iron planes. Plywood glued and screwed into a rabbit of course handles this with aplomb. But if I used solid wood, how would I build it?
  18. Finished a couple more projects (except the locks) and finally took pictures. This one is a Murphy Bar.
  19. Well I got the cabinet done. It is not fancy. The wife wanted it made out of pine and wanted it plane. It is 48 inches wide, 7 feet tall and 19 inches deep. Everything is glued and pocket screwed. It was made from 1 by 10 pine. For the trim and doors 1 by 4 pine and 1/4" plywood and 1/4" plywood for the back. I stained it with a light Maple and put two coats of poly over that. She was happy and wants two more smaller ones.
  20. Tony Konovaloff is a hand tool woodworker.
  21. I have not built furniture before. My wife wants some cabinets for the sewing room. I am thinking 36" W x 7' T x 22" D. I am thinking of using 1 x 12 pine. It will be painted white. Should I use dowels or biscuits? Is there an easier or better way to do it that I am not aware of? It will also have doors. Thanks for any help.
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