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Found 63 results

  1. I showed the glue up for this in an earlier post. Got it all put together yesterday and is now in its place in the kitchen. I have not had time to do the drawers as yet. It will have 2 drawers on slides and 2 small box drawers accessible from either side. The center cubby is for cook books.
  2. Here is the entertainment cabinet that I finished made out of golden oak. We decided that we wanted a electric fireplace in the cabinet. We used to heat with wood but with the mess and everything we no longer use a wood burner. So we decided a electric fireplace is the next best thing.
  3. I am in search of any project or lumber/slab that is Butternut or made primarily from Butternut. I need some project butternut images to install in our wiki page for Butternut, would anyone here like to donate an image(s) of your own work to our wiki? A full reference and credit to you and or your website will be shown. Wiki | Butternut THEPATRIOTWOODWIKI.ORG Wiki If you would like to share your project made from Butternut with us, I would like to use your image in our wiki. Please keep in mind that images used in our wiki become open source and free for use by the public as our wiki is completely open source and in alignment with these copyright rules. Wiki | Copyrights and License THEPATRIOTWOODWIKI.ORG Wiki Thanks in advance for your time, any images of butternut are needed, slabs, finished work, boards, etc.
  4. For my latest project building some pine cabinets for a customer of mine, he has requested that the upper cabinet has a sawtooth shelf support system. He loves the old timey look it offers, and I like it too. Sawtooth Shelf supports come in various sizes, various angles are used for aesthetics, and you are not even regulated to sawtooth configurations, you can angle the notches at virtually any angle you like. It appears the builder of the supports in this image to the left angled their notches at around 15 degrees. We angled ours at 45 degrees. So yesterday I took to laying out and cutting the sawtooth adjustable shelve supports. I did not use any specific dimensions for the layout as you'll see, I just went with what I thought would work, and offer enough strength for the heaviest of loads in my customers cabinet. In our case the upper cabinet is 41" tall with an inside height of 35 inches. So I ripped down 4 pieces of pine at 2" in width and I cross cut them on my miter saw at 36 inches in length just to allow for some custom fitting after they are made. It is very important to make sure that the entire operation is done while the 4 support blanks are grouped as one, this way you are ensured that when the supports are installed, the notches will be directly across from each other and you will not have wobbly shelves due to mis-aligned sawtooth notches. So to keep my orientation good, I bundled them together and secured them with blue tape, I then trimmed them together so we have a reference point that agrees with all the blanks. Next I laid out the notches with a simple marking square, I did not even bother with measuring as the eye will never be able to tell if one notch is a 1/6" different from the next, and since they are all ganged up together, the notches will be directly across from each other once installed in the cabinet, so they will all be off a tad equally. For this one I laid them out using the default 45 degrees available on this square, and I drew the line to what I felt was a comfortable distance about 1 1/2" long at 45 degrees. The numbers on the rule mean absolutely nothing so don't get hung up on the numbers. Flip the square for the 90 degree lines and intersect them. Continue this layout procedure all the way down the board. By the way, I marked lines across the board at 6" from the top, and 6" from the bottom, since it is highly unlikely a shelf would be placed that close to the top or bottom of the cabinet. So I started my layout at 6" from the top, and worked my way down to the bottom to the 6" mark. It only took a few minutes to get my layout lines down and ready for the table saw. I did my 45 degree cuts first, I don't know why, it just moved me to do them first for some reason. You must take care not to let the kerf of the blade float into the other layout line, or you'll have some very ugly notches. Then I set the blade at 90 degrees and commenced to cutting those lines, again, just because you have lines that are (insert dimension here) long, it does not mean you can set your blade at that height, you need to stay away from the layout line at the intersections or the points, or you'll have a very messed up looking point, we are going to clean that area up next to form a nice point. By the way I am using my factory provided table saw miter with a backer board for the above operation. A close up of the finished table saw operation will show you why I stated to stay away from the tip of the notches! If you cut to the tip, you will intersect the blade kerfs and it will cause some irreversible damage to your nice notches. Next I took the gang of 4 to the bandsaw and finished up the notches to intersect the tips of the notches nicely. I happened to have my 3/4" resaw blade on the BS so I just left it on there, and it worked out great. You'll notice the small problem I ran into, I could only finish the notches near the ends of the boards as the other end of the bundle would hit the yolk on the BS. So I could not get to the middle of the shelf supports to clean them up by the bandsaw. So to finish the cut on the notches near the center of the bundle, I took to a gents saw and a chisel and finished them up that way. I clamped the boards down to the bench for two reasons, first to secure them obviously, second, I wanted them all to be flush so when we finish up the notches by hand, they will be cut the exact same depth. Pare down to the intersecting lines after you have cut them with the saw. To finish them up and make my sawtooths look nice and clean, I ripped a 45 into a strip of pine and wrapped sand paper around it and used it like a sanding file of sorts to get right down in there and make them look nice and crisp. The last step I took is to cut the tips of the teeth off. I feel that if we did not do this, they would just get knocked off during normal use anyway (and, that is just the way they are supposed to look judging by other cabinets I researched.) Notice the grain direction in relation to the tips in the photo above, that is just asking for trouble for those points to be knocked off during use. I took the ganged up boards, back over to the table saw and I ripped a 1/4" off the teeth, leaving a net width of 1 3/4" from when we started at 2" at the beginning of our shelf support project. I only cut two boards deep at a time, since I have a 12" blade on my TS I could have done the entire stack in one pass, but I know that most woodworkers run a 10" blade on their TS and I was not sure if a 10" blade could cut 3" stack of boards in one pass so for the sake of our readers, I did it in two passes. Cut one side and flip it over, and cut the other. And now we have some nice looking sawtooth shelf supports!!! The only thing we need to do is cut 4 sticks of pine 45'd at both ends since I have two shelfs going in to the cabinet, we need two supports for each shelf. I will cut those sticks once the vertical supports are in place in the cabinet. Total time for these shelf supports were 1 hour. And we have some very strong, nice looking supports that will add an awe factor to any case project you may have.
  5. As I mentioned before I've bought and sold plenty of tools over the years but the shop has become compressed and I need to find those lost corners and footage that can be there if I look hard enough. Looking for a good ideal on a cordless gun, charger plus a way to house nail and staple guns...any photos would be great. This has to go on the wall and be compressed to get the most out of the smallest cabinet..thx
  6. Some basic gluing videos by one of the PopWood survivors https://www.popularwoodworking.com/experts-guide-to-gluing-clamping-wood/?fbclid=IwAR02zssWUnzXJClxG3seSDmLnE8QffcD-ynNyC2a0KlaHm3xmq3kOVr7o5Y
  7. Years ago I made a cabinet for a local customer, who became my friend. I have the cabinet in our gallery here. I put out the call on Facebook to see if any of my local buddies had a truck leaf spring I could have to build a Froe with. My buddy who I made this cabinet for answered back with a big yes. He is restoring his 1942 Ford Jeep he's had since he was a teen and he purchased new springs. He's 69 years old today. My son and I went over to his home this morning to pick up my leaf spring and while there I found the cabinet I built right where I installed it a few years ago. Just thought I'd take a couple pictures of it this morning and show it off here, I still love this piece. This project was one of those times I really hated seeing one leave my shop. He collects Pewter Molds among many other interests. Curly Maple purchased from Bob Kloes Lumber, dyed with Transfast Colonial Maple, one coat of BLO, one coat of shellac, and one coat of oil based varnish. I don't remember the cut of shellac I used, and I don't remember the varnish brand.
  8. My Grandad always said: "As one door closes, another always opens" He was a lovely man, but a terrible cabinet maker. Not really said by my grandad, but I saw this and thought it was funny.
  9. For those who have made your own kitchen cabinets, did you do any finishing to the inside. Uppers would surely want some type of finish as you stare straight into them when opened. My lower cabinets, except for under the sink will all be drawers - I cannot really see the need for finishing the interiors of these. So, what type of finish is best for the interiors and drawers? FWIW, SWMBO wants the cabinets painted... so they will be painted.
  10. Our local Elks lodge recently did a minor renovation to their kitchen and waitress area. Part of that renovation was the construction of five new cabinets to blend in with their existing units. Today, I’ll deliver the final base unit that will be installed in the waitress area. I’m pretty sick of building cabinets right now.
  11. Just what the title says. My issues are: 1) I don’t know how to handle the expansion of the back, and 2) I want to hang the cabinet, so the back has to handle the weight of a bunch of iron planes. Plywood glued and screwed into a rabbit of course handles this with aplomb. But if I used solid wood, how would I build it?
  12. Finished a couple more projects (except the locks) and finally took pictures. This one is a Murphy Bar.
  13. Well I got the cabinet done. It is not fancy. The wife wanted it made out of pine and wanted it plane. It is 48 inches wide, 7 feet tall and 19 inches deep. Everything is glued and pocket screwed. It was made from 1 by 10 pine. For the trim and doors 1 by 4 pine and 1/4" plywood and 1/4" plywood for the back. I stained it with a light Maple and put two coats of poly over that. She was happy and wants two more smaller ones.
  14. Check out the quality of these hinges on their web site www.brusso.com. I am retiring from my jewelry box business therefor I am liquidating my inventory. These are the best box hinges available. JB107 - 8 sets @$54.30, JB103 - 7 sets @ $31.00 , ST12 - 3 sets @ $18.60 To buy them today is price is $688.60 . Best offer and I'll ship them. Thanks for looking, Dennis
  15. Tony Konovaloff is a hand tool woodworker.
  16. I have not built furniture before. My wife wants some cabinets for the sewing room. I am thinking 36" W x 7' T x 22" D. I am thinking of using 1 x 12 pine. It will be painted white. Should I use dowels or biscuits? Is there an easier or better way to do it that I am not aware of? It will also have doors. Thanks for any help.
  17. Planning and organizing my work space, I am going over in my head different ways to build, or not to build, storage for my hand tools. I have gone over in my head a whole bunch of ideas, and one thing I always love to think about is re-purposing old cabinets for my storage solutions. I currently have old kitchen overhead cabinets now, where my finishing supplies and hardware is stored, they were given to me by a buddy at work years ago, and they have served me well. I was looking through local ebay sales in my area for antique cabinets, that I could reconfigure to fit my hand tools, and I came across this old pine cabinet for $285 bucks on Ebay. The lumber would cost that much to build it, and then my time, of which I have very little, it would be nice to just have this cabinet, and retrofit some dividers into it for my hand planes, and shaves and braces etc. I think this would be a really fun project wouldn't it? I could most definitely make this work for my hand tools storage.
  18. Here are a couple of pics of a storage cabinet I built for the wife. She found one of my WWing mags and made the "request" (Ha!) w/o the attendant "please". Who am I to resist SWMBO? I did garner a few points for it, though. hat
  19. steven newman

    case

    From the album: Microwave Stand

    A view of the lower storage area, with the doors opened.
  20. steven newman

    dovetails

    From the album: Microwave Stand

    Fancy, hand-cut Dovetail joint, for the front of the drawer.
  21. steven newman

    front view

    From the album: Microwave Stand

    Drawer and door details.
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