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Showing results for tags 'turning'.
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I ran across this turning on the web. The only thing I can think of is the skills required to make such a thing.
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Spending a week at Marc Adams Academy of Woodworking just south of Indianapolis. A most amazing place!! I am taking a class with Glenn Lucas again this year, what a great technician and what a great teacher. Almost posted this in the general wood working area but since I'm taking a turning class I decided to post it here. Just thought I'd share a few pictures of the facility. It's important to note these pictures don't begin to show just how extensive this complex is. One of the assistants told me there are about 40,000 square feet under roof. There are about 400 people who have completed the masters program here, it's an extensive training and requires serious dedication to get that done. This is a wall that has several inspirational or clever snippets on it. This one is my favorite. 2018 instructors. the lathe room, 16(I think) oneway 1624 lathes. One of the machining rooms, there are several One of the assembly rooms, and again, there are several. This class is working on a Nakashima style side table. A display case of some completed projects Kind of like wood worker Nirvana Steve
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Seeing a thread about palm wood jogged my memory. This piece (not my work) is turned from "Ponga", which comes from "Mamaku", a Tree Fern native to New Zealand. The vase insert, however, is made from that old standby known Down Under as "Plastic"! John
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I started gluing some pieces for an ornament. I selected a piece that looked like it had good grain and few scraps. It didn't glue up as I intended. Off center just a tad. I turned it and found worm holes and bad sections of grain. Removed, reglued. One of the scrap pieces came apart. Reglue, restart. Why didn't I just quit and start new? I like a challenge and this was one. I got it to where I felt I should quit, but NO, do just a little more. WRONG thing to do. I just set it down and left it for a couple of hours. When I returned my feeble mind had found a solution, if it didn't fly apart again. Here it is, slightly off center and after I had to remove the finish and redo.
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From over working the Single Brain Cell Sketch-up. It was on over load trying to figure out a tool box build. Had a blank of spalted....something or other Well, this is the leftovers. It was 22" long, cut it in half. Drug the old Craftsman T rail lathe up off the storage crates, and fastened it down to my bench. Only place I have down there to run a lathe. Kept looking through stuff, trying to find the "pattern' i wanted. Got the blank mounted on the lathe, and turned round. Chippy stuff, no shavings. Got a start at just winging it from memory, and looked over and found the pattern. Handle was a bit too scrawny for my hand, so the new one was to be FATTER. Sanded things down, parted off the one end. Added an oil finish, and tok everything out side to dry in the sun Old mallet is laying down on the job, again. had to wipe down the NEW mallet one more time ah, that is looking a bit better. Not too bad for a rookie? FIRST mallet I have ever turned. I inherited the old one...
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Still a little to do like building drawers for more tools and hang curtain behind to control chips. Was going to make tool rack of PVC pipe then decited to try a4x4 and drill holes for tools. It worked now to see if I like this arrangement.Oh by the way there is another lathe behind this one.
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Not to steal Lew's thunder but got this in amail from Woodcraft this morning.
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Working on Christmas . Slight changes to my bells and angels. Wife said the base of the bells not wide enough so this is the result. so also widened the angel base. May even put jingle bells in them. So what Christmas item are you planning now?
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These are some more laminated boxes I have been working on . Have tried thin and thick laminates. The woods are mainly walnut, pecan, river birch, cherry. Most of the wood on these was some small scraps slightly larger than the boxes. To turn the box since there was not enough wood for a tenon I uses a sacrifical face plate and used thick CA to glue on blank. Once the turning and hollowing is done the box is removed from the tenon with a sharp rap on a chisel at the glue line. Sometime this will lead to chipping but most just pop right off. Of note here is to place something soft or a bucket on the lathe bed to catch the turning. Hardest part of these projects as I said the last time I showed one was finishing the bottom. It can be done by reversing in pen jaws and bringing up the tailstock with a soft touch mounted. I just do not like flat bottoms even on boxes. Walnut,Pecan,River Birch Pecan, Oak, Mahogany veneer River Birch, paduck Pecan, Cherry, Purpleheart Pecan, teak
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My neighbor had some limbs cut and I picked up some of the pieces thinking firewood, but decided to turn some. Started doing hollowforms and then went on to try dye. It does not show well in the pic but there is violet sanded off and then yellow and then red. Used Chestnut spirit Stains and finished with lacquer. I turned this piece all the way to finish in one sitting and got no movement out of round and this is one of the smallest entry holes I have done so far.
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This is a piece I picked up when I cut some limbs for a neighbor. I left this a lot thicker than I usually do but in turning there were two long bark inclusions across the tenon. I turned to finish and when it dried there was in some areas a rippled effect that live oak gets when turned this way, but much more pronounced. I left one side high and one of the club members suggested I should cut the high side down. So I carved it down and burned the edges to match the natural edge. Started to finish with Mahoney's Walnut Oil and did not like the look so added about 10 coats of thinned Tung Oil. Unfortunately I could not buff it , just too many little edges.
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From the album: Bowls and Platters
Live Oak Burl with one side cut down. Finish is Tung Oil -
From the album: Hollow Forms
Live Oak dyed violet, then red, then yellow. -
so i have a friend who has an old 90 mm shell casing, and he asked me to turn a wooden shell for it. sure. how big? so he sent me some pics of the inner diameter and outer diameter of the casing mouth, and asked that the shell go into the casing by 2 inches, and that the exposed portion be about 10 inches long. oddly, trees don't grow in that shape and size, so i have some scrap lumber gluing up to make the right size. one big bullet coming up sometime this week. oh, if you use a vernier caliber, please get a good straight on shot of the vernier, so i can accurately read the dimension. sigh....
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Have to start with a glue up . Did not think I could find 6 x 6 dry pine so here we go with 3 pieces of 2 x 6. Tried to get the knots toward the surface outer edges as these would be turned off. Remember you can never have too many clamps After squaring the blanks on table saw we will need a centered hole to assemble the two parts of the post as this lathe is not long enough to turn as one piece. Having that hole creates a stabilization problem for turning which is solved by using a cone center in the tailstock. The left picture is the fluting jig cutting the upper post . The right picture shows a closer look at the the jig cutting the post. These are the finished post parts with fluting done on one. Right picture shows the connection for the parts of the post. This round turning and finial go on top of the headboard and footboard. This shows the incomplete mortise and tenon to join the posts to foot and head boards. The raised panels are installed and at this point are prestained. The complete project. Not exact but a close similarity to a bed we lost when our house was flooded over 30 years ago.
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One of our club members made a telephone amplifier so I searched and combined several ideas . The prototype done in pecan was not loud enough maybe due to thickness . The second done in Bradford pear is thinner and is the loudest. When I turned I left the tenon on so I could use it to glue into a backboard so it will not roll. Thought of maybe a flat on the bottom instead but that may reduce the resonance . So the last one I cut slots in and the sound is almost as loud but because of the slots there is a smoother sound.
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Here is one I finished a couple weeks ago on the Ringmaster. Has yellowhart, padauk, cherry, and riverbirch. The paduak bleed over when the lacquer was applied. The padauk has open endgrain pores and if you want a mirror finish it would take a lot more work.
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This video really impressed me. In the crudest of conditions, a work of art is created. the only thing about the final product that puzzled me was the method they used to keep it from cracking
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Some work is too small or otherwise will not fit a chuck so a sacrificial faceplate is the answer. I save my cut off scrapes that are left in the chuck after cutoff for these faceplates . To clean the surface for attachment use a spindle gouge to cut the surface to a slight concave . This will give an outside surface for the glue contact. Put a small bead of thick CA (preferred but can use thin) on the faceplate and spray accelerator on the blank. Mount the blank and can then spray more accelerator. Wait and appropriate time for a bond and then the faceplate can be mounted in the chuck for turning. Once turning is complete the blank can be released with a chisel in the glue joint and a sharp rap. You will need a pad or plastic bucket to help catch the turning .
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This is the last of my sea Urchin shells. The difficult part was getting a good fit between the shell and the wood. I solved that with some very dense foam from Micheals, it is 1" dia X 1" long. I CA glued it to a dowel and turned it to thickness. Then used goop to stick it to the shell, lightly clamped it overnight. Same on both ends. I turned the Purple Heart pieces and used goop to attach to the foam.
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This is a wedding ring (captive ring) goblet I just did recently. Basically was trying out a captive ring tool I made based on a Mike Peace video. The tool worked very well and maybe the easiest ring I have done yet.
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Saw an idea to use delrin as a softtouch and got to thinking that HDPE would be even better. Found some round stock on ebay 1.5 inch X 10 for about $13. Finally got around to making it . I had previously made a thread cutter from a 3/4 bolt by filing the threads similar to the way a thread cutting screw looks. I mounted a piece of the blank about 1.5 inches long in a chuck and drilled it with a 5/8 forstner and then used a spindle gouge to enlarge slightly. Then threaded the hole by placing the screw in place and bring up tailstock to hold straight. Best practice is to back the bolt out after a turn or two and clear the cutter. To make the size mating surface or point just thread the softtouch onto the live center and bring tailstock up against a piece of wood in chuck and then turn the point you need . In use I use this threaded onto live center to hold a top on a box while finishing it on a box. This will leave no marks.
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Just finished this pecan platter from a crotch. Not very thick , maybe quarter inch. Tried Mahoney walnut oil for first time . This is an interesting utility finish. Does not look like it buffs out. Good for a delicate project and gives a flat finish, no shine ok maybe a little. Easy to apply.
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