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Showing results for tags 'turning'.
Found 382 results
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Stuck in the house? Practicing "social distancing"? Bored out of your skull? Need a diversion from TV news? Click the image for the link to more information and schedule.
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While making handles for my Fire Stix to go in my booth I decided to play with texture. These were done with the Artisan version of the Wagner texturing tool. Most are done straight on but you can get spiral patterns by turning the tool at a 45. This one has a spiral on the right from a Sorby texturing tool and the other is the Artisan. I use these on some bowls bottoms to get various effects but rarely take pics of them.
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I posted these on one of the what are you doing I think last Monday . The idea came from a video AAW sent oiut in a news letter. I did not really like that totally so searched and found Sam Angelo had a nice video. Now this is a couple of my versions.
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Made this for a friend of mine that worked with me in Iraq. Used some walnut, tigerwood and dogwood. The glassware is the bottom from my goblets project few weeks ago. I have a lot of them.
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I am just now becoming familiar with it. Does anyone care to educate us further on what it is, how it works, and why you do it? Thanks!
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- ring master
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While I was teaching we'd put a backer board on our bowl projects with a sheet of paper between the good wood and the backer to make separation easy. We did hundreds of bowls like that, and there were a few that failed and we had to reglue, but for the most part that worked for us most of the time. In the last couple years I haven't been able to make it work, the paper joint keeps coming apart while we're turning. Yesterday I got the kids going on the lathes and both of them had the bowl separate from the backer board. We reglued and we'll just have to work a little harder at getting them separated in the end. Is the paper weaker these days or what is going on?
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Have you ever been working on, or polishing a piece that is supported only by the chuck and bumped it off center. I have and have been able to use the tail stock attachments to get it back to center. Provided that they will fit. However, my attachments are small, I have a mini lathe. When the piece of work is too large to fit the attachments, such as a hole in a in a piece, my attachments will fit in the hole. I made a couple of wooden Oak pieces similar to the metal ones to solve that problem. The one time I tried it out, it worked. I have NO intention using them for anything else. You can see the metal ones that go in the tail stock with bearings and the larger ones I made. Any thoughts?
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I have been hearing about the problems created by using steel wool in water based finishes. Does anyone have a picture of the rust in the finish? I am wondering if I cold purposely do that and create a unique finish. Are there problems with the finish coming off or flaking?
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I just made a small vase out of spalted wood. Over the years I have turned some rough grained wood that had open spaces and areas that I'd like to fill to a smooth finish that does not cover up the wood grain or look out of place. I have tried several things to achieve that, including epoxy and some super glue. So far my results have only been just ok, not great. Any suggestions. Maybe I used the right approach, but my methods were wrong. Thanks
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I have the 3 piece carbon steel turning set that Rockler had on sale last year. They stayed sharp a long time. If one edge dulls, you turn it to a new sharp surface. They are round, square and triangular. Today I went to turn the round one and got an idea. I removed the cutter and placed it on my hand diamond sharpening tool. One side is course and the other fine. The tops and bottoms of these are perfectly flat. I placed the top (cutting edge) down and worked my way thru the course to the fine. It did a good job and I am pleased at the results. The sharpener is from Home Depot and cost under $20
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10/15 years ago I was able to get some spalted Box Elder pieces. I had never seen a wood with red in it. I was fascinated. The pictures are of the incomplete pieces. I went back to get some more and they didn't have any. However they had some that looked nearly as red. I was going to pick it up and looked closer when I saw a sign. "This wood is a member of the Sumac family and some people can have the same reaction as they would with poison Ivy." WOA!!! I could immediately see me in the hospital after handling and breathing in the dust.
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Had a interesting afternoon. Got some wood on shop floor stating to crack so had to do something. Decided on platters, yes it is big. This first in pecan is 15 inch. Had to split this one with saw and there was a bit of something slowing the cut which I discovered was two nails. One half will be maybe small bowls. This is the front and back of the pecan. Has some nice color. This is the bradford pear . A crotch with two junctions and flame and curl. Hope to finish this one tomorrow
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Last year I bought a couple of turning blocks from Rockler. They were not large and were coated in a good coat of wax. It was an experiment for me. I wanted a source of exotic wood in my area. I didn't get around to using them for a few months and when I did, I was surprised and disappointed. The wood was wet inside that wax. That irritated me, I was sure it should be dry and ready to use. Yesterday I returned to Rockler, because of my wife. She wanted to go to Joann's material store and it is across the street from Rockler. I was the only customer and got great service. I didn't complain about the block I had gotten, but asked how to properly use those waxed blocks. He said " Remove the wax and place in a paper bag. Then after 30 days it should be OK to use." It has to have time to dry out evenly. I sure wish someone had said that before or at least some instructions on the wood. As we were talking he noticed my Viet Nam vet pin on my hat and we had a conversation about things. He too, had some bad memories and we immediately knew the brotherhood. As I checked out, I asked if Rockler had a veterans discount, He said, "Brother, today we do"
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I get this in my email monthly and sometimes it has some really good stuff. Gonna try the executive top with some modifications . Woodturning Monthly
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Ok guys what do I need to know when buying a lathe chuck? what do i look for? how do i know what size to get etc etc... I have tried looking the information up but have only become more confused. thanks for taking the time to respond.
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I was perusing websites for Green Woodworking tonight, and through links and resources I came across this wonderful short film about chair-maker Lawrence Neal. I have been becoming familiar with the woodworker's of the U.K and Europe over the last year or so, through research and contacts and a couple hand tool purchases shipped to me from "over there". The woodworking skill and art in that part of the world is wonderful, the Green Woodworking culture has taken off like a firestorm over there in the last decade among the youth and middle aged, and of course bodgering in the U.K is where it all started. The craft has come back in a big way, and it's really nice to see folks just working the wood, simply, and with just a few tools. Although chair-maker Lawrence Neal has more than just a "few tools, he does have quite the simple shop. So, hope you like this lil film, it's relaxing, and interesting I feel.
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Hey all you wood turners out there, I have a question for you, but first a bit of background on the problem. A few days ago I purchased a round bar hollower because it was a reasonable price without breaking the bank, and the cutter looked to be about the right size for most of the jobs I would have it do. Well I got it Saturday and tested it out a bit on some random scrap last night. Problem: When presenting the tool to the wood, the wood wants to yank and twist the tools cutter away from the wood. The question: Is there a way (WITHOUT destroying the tool) to flatten the bottom side of the bar to keep it (hopefully) from twisting? Of course I would wish to avoid grinding the back of the tool where the screw attaches to the bar, but beyond that I should be ok right? Thanks
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Your replies have taken me to areas of turning I've never heard of. Rubber Chucky was a neat and great idea. The string center looked like a very old concept. A lot of set up. I made up something like Chucky. My tail stock is a kit that contains about 6 different centers, holes, etc. I turned down a piece of Oak and drilled a hole for a round pencil eraser. I am going to try other materials too and larger erasers. Could be a great way to hold a pointed piece.
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Hey turners, is it a practice to glue felt or some other type of padding material to the surface of the tool rest where the tools meet the rest? The reason why I ask, and I know this is dumb, but I have a couple shiny turning tools, and putting them up on the metal surface tool rest, well, they'll just get all scratched up, the tools that is. Do you guys try to protect the finish on the shaft of your turning tools, or is it just what it is, grit the teeth and get those new scratches on your new tools. Thanks for any help.
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Have you ever given miniature turning a whirl? Best way of getting rid of the very small scraps. It is fun too. Here is a couple I have done, let's see yours.
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One of my favorite sites is You Tube where I can see everything, whether I like it or not. I see a lot of woodworking and turning videos, etc. Tonight I saw one tititled Laser wood turning. I didn't watch it. NOW anyone can turn beautiful things by pushing a button. I don't like the idea. If you use a programmable machine or laser, Why bother? Go buy it. Skills not needed, art not appreciated. Of course I am old school and always will be. How do you feel about products like that?
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Research on the strings for tops didn't yield much. All I found is that the length of the string matters. It said 60" was a good length but did not specify the thickness of the string. I have a spool of nylon sash cord for blinds and started out using it. It is made of nylon and I found it may be too slippery. I got the tops working well with it after some practice but thought the kids may not have the ability or patience for that . I went looking for some type of cotton cord but didn't find anything local thick enough. I did find balls of natural cord at Hobby Lobby that looked good but not thick enough either. I bought it anyway with the thought I may be able to spin two strands together using the same technique I used for the Yo-Yos. Gave it a shot and it worked well with a cord .140" thick. The sash cord was .100 inches thick. After the first cord was made I knew I had a winner. The tops worked easier and I attribute that not only to the thicker cord but to the fact that the cord ended up closer to the outside diameter of the top which theoretically would get the top spinning easier right off the bat when thrown. So here is how I made them. I cut a 152" length of the cord shown and tied a knot in each end. The cord is three strands and I took large paper clips and hooked a strand on each end. I hooked one end on a stationary hook and the other end on a hook inserted in my drill. I twisted the cord running the drill in forward/clockwise motion until the length shortened up 24". While spinning it with the drill I kept moderate pressure on it holding back on the drill enough to keep the slack and whip out of the cord. Once it is 24" shorter there is plenty of twist and will knot up with the speed of light if constant tension is not held on it. Now the drill end has to be removed from the drill and put on the stationary hook with the other end. The drill hook has to be holding the half way mark as you do this. My arms are long enough that I could hook the string with the drill and move the end without it knotting. It would have been easier with a second person but I found it doable. Now that the cord is hooked halfway the drill has to be switched into reverse and spun in a counterclockwise direction. For some reason the cord gets longer as it is reverse spun and after spinning it for a while it will start to shorten up again. When this happens the top string is done. Put a knot big enough in one end to catch the string when winding and a finger loop or a button for the back of the fingers which ever you prefer. Oddly enough the string wound the way it is pictured above at the suggested 60" and the tops spin well. How about two at a time?
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When I decided to do string tops I did a search for information on how to turn one and more importantly the dimensions for them. Surprisingly there is very little information out there but our Charles Nichols gave me the best information on how to get started. After turning a few and experimenting with different dimensions and angles here is what I found works best for me. I start off with a blank 2.5" square by 5" inches long mounted between centers. I then turn it round and size an end to fit my chuck. I also hog off the other end to an approximate 45 degrees while the support is there. I get it mounted in the chuck and turn it true again and take it to a final diameter of 2.25 inches. I also set the banjo perpendicular to the ways and adjust the tool rest to 45 degrees which is the angle I find works best for the bottom. I then true up the bottom to the 45 degrees and prepare the end to drill for the tip. I started out by making tips on my metal lathe and found it was a waste of time. I don't know why but a sharp point on the tip makes it spin a while longer but the top will not stand straight up with it. I found that a ball shaped tip works best to get the top to stand straight up. So for the tip a 1" piece of .25" brass rod is all you need. So now is the time to drill a .25" hole .75" deep for the tip. I take the tips and put them in a drill chuck and roughly round them over. Now take the tip and glue it into the hole making sure it is firmly seated to the bottom of the hole and measure off the overall length of the top and mark off a line. Overall length is 2.75" for the wood body. Do not include the brass tip in this measurement. I leave the tool rest set to the 45 degree angle because it is now time to work the tip end again. Turn the end again to get a smooth transition to the tip and then work on the lower string catch turning away at the 45 degrees and stopping at the catch. At this same time go to your length line and make the upper string catch. Take the parting tool and make a .25" slot on the tip side of the line taking it down to a 1.375" diameter remaining. Measure and mark the middle of the remaining total diameter. Round it over from the center line. Sand it and add some burn lines or maybe some other visual decoration. Now is time to finish shaping the tip. If your hole wasn't exactly on center this step will cure that. I take a skew chisel laid horizontal on the tool rest to finish shaping the brass tip. I do it at sanding speed or a little less and shape the tip end round like a ball bearing. Sand it to 320 grit and polish it with fine steel wool. When done the tip will be perfectly centered. Take it nice and easy. If you get a catch it is possible for the whole top to go off center. BTDT. It is now time to part it off and take it for a spin.
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It sure isn't wood and it sure turns differently. It sheds streamers of plastic all over you, tools and the tuning head. I had to stop and clean the place up several times. I didn't want those strips of plastic on my lights for fear of fire. I didn't want them in places around turning shafts, etc. I enjoyed it, especially the final polishing. It surprised me in how it came out like glass so quickly. I learned a lot and plan on doing more. The biggest problem I had was the wood, it splintered and tore out very easily. I wanted to make it thinner and more unique, but stopped because of the unstable wood (Padiuk)
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