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Found 27 results

  1. I was out in the shop sharpening a few of my plane blades with my water stones, and since my shop has changed dramatically (much smaller), I find that the usual location I used to sharpen my blades is gone of course, along with my little bench I used ( I gave it away to make room for other things) and I figured I could just work off my existing workbench. The problem with that is the slurry and sledge tends to splatter and eventually the workbench gets wet and etc etc etc and it's just become a mess to maintain any type of area for a water stone station space. I did a little research and found that oil stones actually provide a cleaner environment (less messy) than their waterstone relatives. Of course there are pros and cons for both methods of sharpening, but I want to give oil stones a try and a strop. I also understand that they are more receptive to free hand sharpening which is what I like to do, and they maintain a very flat surface with free handing. I have a Washita Stone that I picked up a couple years ago, I believe it's soft grade for prelim honing, so I'd need Hard Arkansas? Not all oil stones are created equal either, some will sharpen the harder steels of today, O1 and A2 but others are only good with the older steels that may be found in the venerable Stanley's. I think Steven Newman uses oil, any suggestions from Steve would be appreciated, and any suggestions and or personal experience from anyone is appreciated. My questions: What grades of oil stones do I need? What type of oil do I need? What type of compound do I use for stropping? Any specific type of leather or is an old belt fine? Please relate your experiences with me here in this topic, and please do not link me to outside websites or charts, there is a ton of information out there on this subject, but I want to hear from you guys. not the rest of the world. Thanks a ton in advance!
  2. Below is a picture of my sharpening rig made from an old belt sander. The motor went bad so I rigged it up to a used fan motor. I made a dozen tube pockets so each tool has its own. I put a piece of all thread on the bottom and a lock nut for adjustability. I used some metal conduit I had on hand that fit over the tool handles. I epoxied a wood dowel into the end of the conduit and a piece of 1/4" all thread into the dowel. The all thread is inserted in the holder and the tool can be easily sharpened with very accurate repeatability. The lock nut is adjusted away from the tool as needed to keep the preferred bevel angle. I also have my bowl sharpening jig mounted in front. I have to remove the other holder but have a stop on it so it can be easily returned to the same spot. I used a lettering system and each tool has it's own holder. The tools are just here for visual purposes. They are not stored with the holders. I posted this a few years ago on the old Wood forum but posted it here for those who didn't see it.
  3. I have been sharpening my chisels & plane blades with a homemade guide, assorted papers spray glued to a piece plate glass for some time now and decided to move up to something less bulky. Found the FASTTRACK on Woodcrafts web site that linked me to https://www.m-powertools.com/. Signed up for the news letter & received 20% off my purchase. First thing I noticed was the weight, 2 pounds. As suggested I screwed it down to a board with a cleat on the end and clamped it in my wood vise. One screw and the rubber feet kept it in place. Road tested on a used chisel, and ran thru 100, 220,& 450 diamond stones.Working the sled I had no problem with it sliding out too far. The set up was easy and there was no movement on the stones as I sharpened, the magnet held the stone in place. I ran a pin across the chisel and did not feel any grooves or lines that appear in the picture. I think a little time on #600 would take away the lines. This was my worst looking chisel and required the most time, about 10 minutes. My other chisels cleaned up in less than 5 min. Overall I'm happy the way it performed. I did have an email question and did receive a fast reply. The only thing I did not like was the handle on the sled. Big enough for my hands but, the edge was a bit hard on the hand. I think a file can soften up edge.
  4. Some of us have miter trimmer knives and sharpening the knives accurately can be a chore... I saw this iron sharpening jig elsewhere.. add drawer casters to it and adapt to hold the trimmer blades/irons and I believe you have solved an issue.. to add the caster.. ''wheel well'' for the caster wheels w/o the bracket and drift pin the wheels into place... twin keyhole/T slot the jig's face to make for adjustablity...
  5. The Tormek sharpener came up in a thread a couple days ago. Coincidentally, I got a flyer from Grizzly yesterday. They have a Tormek knockoff. Does anyone have this Griz model? How does it work for you?
  6. Simple question. How do I sharpen my wood turning tools? My tools are getting dull and I don't have a clue on how to sharpen them. I sharpen my pocket knives but I don't know how to sharpen these Any help would be great
  7. Still chilly here but tomorrow I'll spend inside riding herd on 20 tenth, eleventh and twelfth graders in Computer Tech- should be an exciting day! Remember there is still time to send ornaments to @Jim from Easy Wood Tools to help decorate the Easy Wood Tools lobby Christmas tree! We've had a great response to Jim's request but I'm sure they would be grateful for more! Our Patriot Turners- Last week's "Wednesday's.." post got @DAB in the mood for turning. He made a sweet little bowl that will be a prize given to a member of the pistol club to which he belongs Here's a link back to last Wednesday's post for more pictures and some answers to DAB's questions- @Ron Altier is still cranking out beautiful ornaments. He shows us some of his latest creations in this post- Ron also posted an ornament that he felt was off center. If it was, none of us could see it- Check out the comments from his post to see what the other turners had to say- @Jim from Easy Wood Tools showed us some of the beautiful ornaments that @Gerald created for the Easy Wood Tools Christmas tree- Looks like the volunteers are going to have a ball finishing some of these! Thank You Gerald! @Jim from Easy Wood Tools is becoming a master turner. He showed us this awesome bowl- Jim wasn't sure of the type of wood but we all agreed that "beautiful" was an apt description. Read more comments in Jim's post- @HARO50 posted an image of turning made from Ponga. Mother Nature certainly can create fantastic materials- Maybe we need @John Morris to add this to his Wiki- https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cyathea_dealbata and https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mamaku @HandyDan showed us his lathe tools sharpening station. For more images and a description of its' use, check out his post- @PostalTom posted a question about gouges and how to tell the functions apart. He received several helpful suggestions. If you can provide him with some additional information, please go to his post and chime in- What’s Coming Up- The 2019 Florida Woodturning Symposium. February 8th – 10th, 2019 at the Lake Yale Baptist Conference Center. http://floridawoodturningsymposium.com/ For The Newbies- Turners save every scrap of material. You never know when that piece might come in handy. If the wood isn't dry, it could crack or split waiting on you to use it. Sam Angelo posted a video to help preserve and store those treasures- Expand Your Horizons- I don't intentionally do off center turnings.My lathe is mounted on a cabinet and off center work really shakes, rattles and rolls (thanks Big Joe Turner). Rick Turns makes a very nice bowl using the off center process- New Turning Items- A couple of new things this week. First, from Woodturners Wonders, a new LED lamp. It looks to be super bright, has a magnetic base and a flexible neck- More information and specs at their web site- https://woodturnerswonders.com/collections/lamps/products/quasar-our-new-led-magnetic-lamp With Christmas coming, we are all looking for gift ideas. Craft Supplies USA is offering a new line of ring inserts. You can find more about these items at- https://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p/58/7074/Artisan-Titanium-Comfort-Ring-Core?utm_source=csusa&utm_medium=email&utm_content=titanium&utm_campaign=18-oct-titanium-rings Safe turning
  8. Hi guys seen a few posts about slate stones for final polishing. Dies anyone use them, are they any good and is there a decent one in the UK?
  9. It finally got above freezing the past couple of days but the basement shop is lagging behind in the warm up. @Ksvet06 posed a question about sharpening lathe tools. He asked about grinders and sharpening jigs. Please look over his post and the responses. Let's give Zach all the help we can- @Gerald is working on hollow forms for the Beads of Courage (BOC) project- Check out what he has done for this very special cause- @Smallpatch is recreating a couple of chess pieces for a customer- Although Jesse says he's not a turner, you would never know it by how well these turned out! He tells us about the adventure here- When I used to use my diamond parting tool, it almost always gave me a ragged surface. Here's a video from Rick Turns illustrating how to regrind the parting tool for a cleaner cut- I must admit, I've abandoned my diamond parting tool in favor of the Easy Wood Tools parting tool. It creates clean cuts, no vibration and because it's a carbide tip- stays sharp a LONG time. In Last week's "Wednesday's..." we mentioned @Steve Krumanaker had a mishap when he inadvertently turned off his vacuum system. That got me to wondering if a shop made vacuum could be built. I found this PDF for making an inexpensive system. Not sure if I'll try it but thought it might give someone an idea. I believe the author is in England because the costs are in pounds and dimensions are metric. http://www.gaw.org.uk/blog/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/Vacuum-chuck-for-£10-or-less.pdf The Woodturning OnLine newsletter arrived last week. As always there are interesting projects, articles and equipment. While scanning the "New and Hot" section I noticed this little jewel- Looks like this laser could be adapted to most any tool. It is available through Tim Yoders' site- http://www.wtwtim.com/elbotool.htm about half way down the page. The entire newsletter is at- http://www.woodturningonline.com/ Finally, here's an older video from Carl Jacobson turning a lidded vessel. Notice his use of the Easy Wood Tools hollower and the fantastic Easy Wood Chuck! Safe turning
  10. I know there are 2 different type of bench grinders. High speed and low speed. Plus jigs to get the correct angles. Are you able to sharpen on a high speed bench grinder too?
  11. Okay Master of the great wood turner, lathe tool sharpening queries.... I have both a grinder and a table top belt sander. which do you think is better to use for a beginner and which grit for the sander and grind wheel. i was watching videos but they dont tell me. so i am looking to the masters for help.
  12. Gene Howe

    Stanley #71

    Do any of you guys know an easy way to sharpen the cutters on a #71?
  13. Short & sweet. And that's one wicked sharp chisel (said with Bawston accent) http://www.finewoodworking.com/2014/10/01/chisel-tricks-for-hand-cut-joinery
  14. Well, lets see, got out the Saw Vise Squad.. Ol' No. 1 was set up and used.. As this old saw needed some work on the teeth. Saw file was sent along.. As this was it's second saw, we had Back Up available.. But the file was no rookie, and came through without any problems , will get the back up file for another time Decided to at least give these usual suspects a chance to show what they could do.. 6 ppi, filed rip. Got out a 1 x 1 pine scrap, as a test.. But, it turned into a Crime Scene. Saw was hard to start, but once it did, it cut very fast....so fast that the hand that was holding the scrap steady for the start , got caught up in the action... One swipe...was enough to trigger the "Saw_Stop Sensor" Teeth were drifting to the left in the cut, still had burrs on the teeth on that side, stoned the burrs off. Should be ready to go, next time around. Decided to work on something a little safer, got out the leather strop, and the brand new Green Stick, and honed a few chisels....that way, only the strop can get cut.. So, they all should be ready to go, for the next project....I hope. Needs a new bandaid....and a beer...
  15. @Jim from Easy Wood Tools I use carbon steel cutters/tools to turn with and like them a lot. I liked your comments on these and home made cutters. I do have a question. When I take mine out and run them over diamond dust stones.......................am I really sharpening them or am I fooling myself. I can see tiny scratches all over the cutter bit
  16. I have learned just enough to be dangerous. I watched several of Paul Sellers' videos on sharpening various things. I had no idea that it is advisable if not a must to initialize brand new planes and chisels. I have several of my chisels and both of my planes shining like a mirror and have a fair amount of razor burn on my arm from testing the sharpness. They are SHARP. My question is this. I think I understood Mr. Sellers to have said initialize at 25* and then sharpen at 30*. Why? Also, I took apart one of my Lowes block planes (don't make fun of me) and I am not sure if the bevel was up or down. Does it matter? If so, how do I figure out which way it goes?
  17. What are your opinions of radius edge CBN wheels vs straight edge wheels?
  18. Over at the Neanderthal Haven site, there is currently a thread going on about sharpening... Your Ice Scrapers Yep. Posts include the usual about back bevels, flattenning the backs, Bevel up or bevel down. One poster even uses a block plane to refresh the bevel. Others worrying about how sandpaper on a flat board would leave grit inbedded in the scraper's surface, and scratch the glass.. Yep, normal sharpening thread over there...
  19. Well, some fellow named Gump...tion found me, and hauled me off to the shop today.. And I am plumb worn out. Glad this isn't an everyday thing. Anyway, there is a plane in the shop, in need of a "bit of work" (where have I heard that one, before?) to make it at least try to do it's job.. A strange looking beastie? I had already done it's "twin" last spring. This one was put on hold, as some of the parts were loaners. Rear handle is a Walnut one I had made for another plane. The chipbreaker is a Stanley orphan. The rest is called an Ohio Tool Co. No.035. Almost the same as a Stanley #35....almost being the operative word. The plane as is can rock back and forth, only the area around the mouth can touch the wood, sometimes. It won't take a shaving.. I backed the iron all the way out, drew some lines. A few trips on the beltsander.....The high spot was from the mouth to about halfway to the tail end. I was going to leave everything in place for the next step...but, I didn't want to hit anything NOT wood.. Stanley 5-1/2 took things down to FLAT. Wood body wanted to squirm around a bit. But, finally a straight edge showed how things were... ThenI ran the palmsander around, to knocked some sharp corners, and a few nasty spots on the sides and top.. Now, there is ONE bolt in this entire plane, other than the one for the depth adjuster. The rear handle has one like a normal plane, but everything else is large screws. Which I used a wire wheel in the drill press to clean off. Lever cap had rust the needed to leave.. Wire wheel to shine things up. This is how they are supposed to look. Frame needed some new paint.. As did the frog. Wire wheel to remove the bad spots, and the rust. Rattle can black.. Set aside to dry. There was plenty of time to dry, too, as I had this thing to do, next.. Yep, that is a Tapered Iron. Not sure if this one is laminated or not....Drug out the sharpening stuff. After awhile riding the beltsander.... Angle WAS @ 25degrees, had to raise it a bit..maybe to 28 degrees.. I'd run the bevel till too hot for fingertips, dunk in the water, run the back a bit, dunk, and so on, until I thought is was ready for the stone.. Same as the other day..600 grit stone, 1K grit paper, 2K grit paper. Working the bevel and the back....then a lot of swipes on the old belt.. Back of the iron is flat and polished, curve on the chipbreaker as well.. I think that will do for the edge? Like I said earlier, the chipbreaker is a loaner. Bolt is not designed for the tapered irons. The slot for the depth adjuster is in the wrong spot as well. We make do in this shop, though. Somehow got this back together. and started the re-assembly. Paint was a hair tacky.... All but the long handle bolt are sloted screws. Finally got everthing back in place... And a coat of the BLO/Varnish mix on the wood parts..except the sole. it will get a coat of wax. Before the blo/varnish arrived, gave this a test drive,, Oh, it will peel shavings, alright. I need to get an Ohio Tool Co. chipbreaker to help set the depth better....than tapping things with a hammer. Not too bad, for a $1 plane. While I had the brush and Mix out, I cleaned off all the crud from another old plane.. A Stanley No.28 small jointer plane. It has "Bailey" cast around the front knob. I won this and a #29 at an auction last year....for the grand total of $5 for the pair. #29 is awaiting replacement parts. Might be awhile.... Sooo, now you know WHY I am all tuckered out, today...( still don't have a beer in the house, let alone in the fridge..)
  20. Trying to type this and eat supper ( my own cooking) at the same time....so, here goes. been having a bit of trouble with one of the planes.. As the lateral lever kept going to the side as I used the plane, just to get an even shaving... Leaning way to one side. Was having trouble with stuff getting jambed up, as well. Took the plane apart.. Look like a mismatch going on. Took things apart.. Back has a hollow to it. Chipbreaker has burrs.. Edge of the iron was a little out of square, too. Set up the first tool I use for this,, Have the platten set to about 25 degrees or so. I also had a big bowl of water handy Hollow grind a bit until the square was "happy".. I had cleaned up the parts with that wire cup on the drill press. I used the MK1 jig to set the bevel at 25 degrees. The sander? Well, I run it to sand out the hollow grind, and make sure the bevel is what I want. I can also flatten the back of the iron, Fingertips tell me when the steel is getting too hot, then a dunk into the water. Once the bevel looks even, I can put away the sander, time for one of these.. Squiggle of 3in1 oil. Stone is a 600 grit medium India stone. Iron is left in the honing guide. Moosh the iron around a while, until the grinder/sander marks are gone. Then onto these.. I found out that IF there is a layer of oil still on the stone, the sandpaper will "stick" there, and not move around. Went through the 1000 grit, and the 2000 grits. I spent as much time on the bevel as on the back. Getting both polished up.. The corners have a slight radius, to keep them from digging in. The leather sitting there is an old work belt, now serving time as a strop. Just bare leather, maybe a touch of oil. Time to put the plane back together, and do a test run.. Much better? The coils sitting there are called Moxxon TP. The lateral lever? A little more centered. I think this one is about ready to go back to work? Now, as for this old plane... That "boat hull" of a body has a big curve to it. Only the area around the mouth is in contact. I can push down either on the front end, or the stern. Sooo, next time, I will have to flatten this sole.. Yep, it is that ugly, even the camera didn't want to look at it. next time I get to the shop, a tune up will happen to this old Ohio Tool Co. 035 Razee.....yep, it do have a tapered iron...
  21. I had to get a new round tip for my tool. I found out that carbide don't hold up well when it hits a turning chuck. I turned the tip and it worked fine till I hit the chuck again. I am known to jerk when I am surprised. My wife knows to knock before she comes in, however, she forgot Any way, I have found an easy way to keep a good edge on these tips. Harbor Freight has a set of 3 diamond dust sharpening pads. Course Medium and fine. I don't allow them to get very dull before I remove them, place the flat cutter down and go thru the pads. I use moderate pressure and doe a good job.
  22. Nice article discussing the steps for sharpening a handsaw- http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/editors-blog/how-to-sharpen-saw-blades
  23. Well, while getting that loft bed done for the GrandBRAT the other day...tried out a drawknife to help smooth the dados out. It worked, but the edge was on the dull side, and was a bit wavy. When I got it out of the tote when I got back home, it went to the shop!. Had the beltsander set up in the leg vise. Up side down, with the belt running away from me. Locked it on....and dressed the edge straight. Got the back flattened. Sharpened the edge as well as I could. Then, holding the knife fiddle likein the crook of the elbow, I used a file like a bow on a fiddle. Got things looking good, took the knife upstairs to the stones, and ran them around. The results? doesn't look too bad? This is an 8" straight edge "EasyCut". Says so right on the blade. Made in USA, a bit fuzzy. Got to looking at the second knife in the group of two.. A 10" curved knife, not sure who made it. Edge is curved a bit, back is also designed to have a curve. But, not the wavy edge.. Ugly. So, off to the shop it went. Same routine. Evened thing out along the edge. Played "Fiddle" again, too. Cleaned the back up. Then upstairs to the stones and sandpaper.. Used the 2K grit wet-n-dry to polish it up. Need a shave, anyone? these were yard sale finds...about a dollar each. Added a handle to the curved one. Oh, about the "Gimlet" in the title? went on a walkabout tour of Antique Stores today.....in the third store, found a little treasure, for $5 !/4" Gimlet style drill. Ain't he cute? As for the rest of what was in the stores? Not worth the effort to pick them up...
  24. I love visiting our sponsors "Woodcraft Magazine" site, it's such a cool place to peruse and just hang out, and it looks great! Here is a cool jig I found, thanks Woodcraft!
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