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Showing results for tags 'turning'.
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The more wood I turn, the more I find out what woods turn well and some that not so good. What are your favorite woods to turn? What ones would you advise to avoid?
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The boss asked me if I could make her an egg tea light in time for Easter. So, I took a break from the dippers and did this over the last few days. Overall I'm happy with it, the narrow end is a little fat but not to bad and she loves it so that's ok. It was my thought to put "He is risen" or just "Risen" on the back but just couldn't make it look right to me eye. It was also my original thought to stipple the "halos" but I'm so glad I waited as I like them the way they are. The egg itself is maple and the base is spalted beech. Thanks for looking!! Steve
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My neighbor was cutting up a muscle tree which had fallen in the woods some time back and i noticed that it had a fair size chunk at the base and appeared to be spalted. I thought maybe someone would be interested in trying to turn this (I have no lathe)... so here are the pictures...if you're interested i can probably meet you somewhere in NE ohio to deliver it... too heavy to mail.
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Did a little turning to finish. Got this bishop wood at AAW symposium in June. This really turned well. Had some minor cracks that went accross grain lines, have never seen that.
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Saw this in the AAW Forum and going to try it today. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GZ_oxNaSLyk
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When I was turning some of those Easter eggs, I did find out one thing about Hickory wood. It is listed as one of America's hardest woods and therefore I figured a good candidate for the chatter/stutter tool. Not so much, at least for the Hickory I got at HD. Having never used it before, I didn't know what to expect. It was hard but the more open grain in between the hard grain.........tore out easily. I don't know if it is a trait of Hickory or it was just the piece I got. The Maple reacted much better to the chatter tools. Anyone ever turn Hicklory?
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Decided to go ahead and make inside out ornaments for Christmas this year. Much more glue and clamp time than I envisioned not to mention running all the pieces through the saw to size them and make sure they are square. While running them through the saw I keep track of the grain match too. Turning them is the easy part and takes the least amount of time. I start out gluing two pairs together and when they are dry I glue the two halves together to get the square blank. Then they go on the lathe and turn the inside and put some shellac finish on with a rag while still on the lathe. Then I break them apart, turn them inside out and glue two pairs together and when they are dry glue the two halves together keeping track of the numbered pieces to keep the grain oriented. I glued 36 blanks up, here are some of them. I am now working at turning the final shape and will have to put the finish on once they are turned. Whew! I make 60 to give away each year so I still have another batch of 24 to do after these.
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Squared up a blank for a rear rocker leg and backrest, and chucked it up on our Laguna 16/43 lathe. I have a home made long tool rest I made that works wonderful. Then I noticed my son standing around, this was last night, he knows better than to stand around me. He also knows better than to say "I'm bored" the word "bored" is a bad 5 letter word in our world, but sometimes the kids slip up and say it anyway. This time, he did not say "I'm bored" but he was idle, so I put him to work. I showed him the basics, and safety, and I told him "it's all yours buddy" and he took it! He's using an Easy Wood Tools Mid Size Rougher. A great solid tool, easy for sure! After he roughed it out, I took over and brought it to finish. The right end is the top with a tenon for a pillow rail. I have two of these made and they are headed for steam bending next. Go Pats!!!!!!!!
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Here is another inside out turned vase. I used some brass components found at the thrift store and polished on the lathe. It is about eight inches overall and the wood is Poplar. Used a different window design but think a wider window would show the brass insert better. I got a small photo booth in the tools I bought at auction but is was a bit too small for this vase. Took this picture with the set up I have had for a while.
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And then I did this and it worked a trice -
This is the first finished(almost) bowl from the walnut I harvested a couple months ago. Turned natural edge, it's about 11X14" and about 4" deep. Pretty happy with it except for a couple tool marks I just didn't get sanded out. I'll gift this one to my Sis for Christmas as it's from the tree that was in her yard. It's about 3/8" thick throughout and will get a few more coats of antique oil. I just have to say, I really like the picture posting procedure on this forum. Steve
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After reading & following a lot of these turning post it still amazes me what you guys can do with a block of wood. There are ton of videos on the web and I could watch them for hours, & a lot of times I find myself doing just that. Having said that it still leaves a couple hundred questions in my head. I don't own a lathe but would like to move in that direction. As a newbie: What type of lathe to buy, I"m sure there are plenty of choices, pros & cons? How do you set up your tool to eliminate vibration? Basic tools to start with. Keeping tools sharp. Types of wood, green, dry, walnut, maple oak? Woods to stay away from. Treatment of wood before and after turning. I'm sure there will be more questions down the road but let's start here.
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From the album: Chess Set
Board is paduak and birdseye maple. Men are walnut and maple/cherry. Box is Mahogany. -
Turned 'em set 'em aside to dry and the little buggers went all changeling on me Too cute for them to be too ugly or sumpin'
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From the album: Chess Set
Finials on king and queen are painted gold. -
I saw these at Woodcraft and just had to make one.
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Did a demo at MS Ag museum and one of the club had a small tool holder . I added to andcame up with this to keep tools organized.
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I don't quite know what to call this. There is a recurve on the rim where the bowl turns in on itself and is hollowed inside. I'm working on a second one now from the other half of that log. This one has been put away to dry.
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While it may not seem so at first glance, a laser engraver is much like a table saw, a lathe, or even a router. Now that you have it, what can you do with it? Not much as it's a "core" tool. With a table saw, an add on might be a dado set, or molding heads. A special sled or jig. A lathe is very dependent on other tools to prep stock. Different operations on a lathe require different accessories. A hollow vessel requires completely different tools than a spindle. Of course, a router or shaper must have bit's or cutters to be functional at all. Not to mention a fence or sled. A laser engraver? Well, it must have graphics and/or documents to do what it does. That may seem a simple matter, after all, there are thousands of images just waiting to be downloaded. While this is true, many of them are copyrighted and water marked. What if a person can't find the "just right" image to download? What if someone has a special request, like a graphic of a specific scene or pet? How to add text to a picture? How to make the picture fit on what is to be engraved? What if only a part of the image is to be engraved? Let's address image size and making it fit the project first. It's fairly easy to enlarge or shrink an image. Windows paint can do it as can any number of programs. The problem is, enlarging or shrinking an image often results in loss of detail and crispness. This is an image called Odin's triangle, printed, or burned it will be about 3" tall and 3" wide. The lines that form the triangle are fairly crisp and sharp. This is what is called a "raster" image. That means it's made up of tiny dots of different color arranged in a pattern. What if I wanted the image to be bigger? Say, 3 times as big. You can see, the enlarged image isn't nearly as sharp as the original. This will happen with any raster image, that includes image files like bmp, gif, jpg, to name a few different types of raster images. The answer is to convert the picture to a "vector" image. A vector image is drawn according to a mathematical formula. No matter how big or small the image is, the formula remains the same. What that means is, the image always remains sharp and crisp. What if a person had a picture of a leaf they wanted to use? Easy enough to do, but what if only an outline is needed? What about using more than one leaf? What about overlapping them? That way it would look like one leaf laying on top of the other. That would be great for wood burning, painting, carving, etc. etc. So, let's use the leaf picture at the right, copy it and paste it to look like one leaf is on top of the other. It will look something like this. Hmmm, not exactly what we had in mind, is it? Why didn't it work? Well, because a bitmap, ie, jpeg, gif, bmp, can only have one layer and there has to be a back ground. Normally the background is white and on a white page you can't see it, it's still there and will make it's presence known at the worse times. Wouldn't this look much better? This isn't the best job of editing as I still have a little back ground showing but that is easily addressed. The programs that manipulate images like this are the tools or accessories a wood burner or a laser engraver needs to be much more flexible than it would be otherwise. These programs are also very useful to a wood carver or pyrographer. So, what are the programs that work this magic and how much do they cost? Probably the most well known is Adobe illustrator. To the best of my knowledge, illustrator can only be leased at this point. Licenses start at around $10.00 a month. Not a lot of money but for a now and then user not a good value either. Fortunately, there are completely free alternatives. The two programs I use are "Gimp" and "Inkscape" Both are open source and completely free for downloading, although I recommend only downloading from their official websites. https://www.gimp.org/ https://inkscape.org/en/ These are two powerful, full featured programs for manipulating images. Because they are so powerful, there is a steep learning curve associated with either of them. This section of the blog is not meant to be a tutorial on using these programs, but rather just to introduce them to someone who may not be aware they are available. While there is a steep learning curve with either, there are also dozens and dozens of tutorial videos on youtube about them.
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I stopped at Rockler to a few things and spotted some Inch and half by 6 inch Inace Acrylester blanks. I've never turned plastics before and have some questions. I went to youtube and watched a couple of videos and it seems to be easy. 1. If I want to turn a ball, can I predrill it and use an Oak dowel center to center? 2. If so, what kind of glue would I use to glue wood to acrylic ? 3. Are there some important do's and don'ts? 4. Does this stuff tare out? 5. Will it melt if I drill/turn too fast or slow? Thanks
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Just got this pen done today
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A couple of years ago, I made my wife a set of 12 ergonomically designed crochet hooks. Then I made a rack for them. She will never use them all but she wanted all of them. Long story short, she misplaced 2 of her favorites. That is where she says "Can you make me two more?" As luck would have it, I had two spare ( less than perfect) handles. I was able to salvage one today, will try the other tomorrow. They were all made of exotic wood scraps.
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This is nearing the end of turning. Body of the angel is first hollowed , then turned. Angel in jig to drill mounting hole for wings. Hollowing did not go this high so usually not a big problem except had to make a jig to get the angle on the wings. The wings are turned to less than 3/16 in thickness. Notches are cut in wings and sanded. A ring is turned for the halo. This is progress so far. Still have to do carve the fronts and dye. The glue up and finish. By the way the wood is crepe myrtle from my yard.
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Can anyone tell me what manufactures produce wood lathes with indexing heads? Is this a common feature?
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