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Found 9 results

  1. Steve Krumanaker

    Skeleton Clocks

    Someone in one my FB groups posted a picture of a "skeleton" clock. I didn't know what that was until after I did some research. I guess all it means is that a person can see the gears. The one I saw was on a pedestal and it was very nice looking. I need a demo for June and had a little different vision for one. When I do a demo I will make several of an item to make I have it down. So far I've made four of these, no pictures of the first one. It was just to figure out dimensions and diameters. Let me know what you honestly think please. This is the second I did, it is very simple and very basic, I actually kind of like the front view of this one. It is made from a piece of 8/4 walnut as about 1 1/8 thickness is needed to hide the back of the clock. This is a perspective view and it just doesn't work IMO. The brass trim ring looks huge on this one. You probably noticed there is no foot. There isn't a foot on any of these. My vision is for the clock to sit on a high shelf or fireplace mantle and kind of rise out of the surface. This is the next one, it is white oak and walnut. I have always liked the way those two woods look together. IMO, the walnut feature ring is just too small and is hard to see. On all of the clocks it's hard to see the hands from any distance but I think that's the movement itself. Persepective on the walnut and white oak clock, definitely looks better in the front view. This one is a little heavy on the front too. it would be okay on a mantle or high shelf but on a table it would tip over if bumped. This is the last one I've done and the best one I think. It is hickory and walnut. I like the white oak and walnut better but the walnut ring is better on this one I think. For what it's worth, it's the same movement in all three. It just presses into a 2 3/4" diameter hole. You can tell in this one how hard are the hands to see. Perspective on the last one. Let me know what you think, not sure about the look and maybe a foot will be necessary. Steve
  2. Ron Altier

    Unusual Turning question

    Can you turn soft metal on a wood lathe with carbide cutting tools? I'm thinking soft aluminum. I've turned some very hard woods that seemed harder. Is it foolhardy?
  3. Steve Krumanaker

    Another platter

    I've been wanting to add some color to some of my turnings and posted a little about that earlier. At the time I was working on another decorative platter and have just put the sealer coat on it. Probably should've waited and taken better pictures but I wanted to share and got impatient. The platter is soft maple, turned to about 1/8" thick and about 12" diameter. My original thought for the center motif was to use water color paint. After several practice pieces I just wasn't getting the "pop" I was after and decided to use aniline dye. It is definitely a more robust color. The sky, the tree, the animals, and the bottom are pyrography. The underside I was excited about doing this piece there are several things I really like about it. Even so, I'm just not sure it "works". Steve
  4. Steve Krumanaker

    The "ET" bowl

    Although it's only been about five weeks, moisture meter said it was ready to finish so I did. It was in a heated space and I think that made a big difference as far as drying time. Main thing is, it did not crack or split. A LOT of sanding on this one, have to work on getting cleaner cuts on these for sure. Anyway, I'm very happy with how it turned out. It was just over 19" when I took it off the lathe and it's just 18" diameter now. A pretty consistent 1/2" thick top to bottom. It's almost too big for my little photo booth. Here's looking ya' kid! The bottom, no foot on this one. Didn't want to break the grain pattern. Steve
  5. Steve Krumanaker

    My hollowing rig

    Here are some pictures of my deep hollowing set up. I have about 22" reach with it. It's built around an inch and one quarter diameter bar. The bar is 4140 prehard steel. That should be stiff enough to reach out about 20" or so. I have about 22" of reach from the cutting tip to the torque arrestor that is welded to the round bar. There is a threaded stud in the front corner for attaching the laser pointer post. This picture shows the threaded stud a little better. The trap that holds the boring bar is made from two 1" diameter black iron pipes. The top pipe is adjustable so the trap can accept larger or smaller diameter boring bars. Eventually I may add a 1 1/2" bar but I have no immediate plans to do so. If/when I do it will be a simple matter to use the same trap for either bar by loosening one bolt on either end and repositioning. This is the "business end" of the hollower. The boring bar came from Grizzly as a set of five double ended bars. In addition to the angle slot the other end has a straight slot. I have both a 3/4" set and a 1" set of bars. The order from Grizzly also included 1/2" 3/8" and 1/4" boring bars. I could see no use to keep those so I gave them to my brother to use in his shop. This is just a view from the tail stock end of the lathe. I figure I have probably less than $150.00 in this rig. For one this heavy duty, retail would be in the $500.00 range. With that said, I don't believe the retail ones are over priced at all. It's easy to look at material cost only and think they are charging too much for something like this. In addition to my material cost there are several hours of machining that went into making this. My brother is no slouch at metal work. His normal shop rate would've pushed the cost of this well over what I would pay retail. Add to that, the cost of welding and there is no way it could be done for less. I'm blessed to have had someone to help me for hanging out together and a bowl or two. Several times I showed my brother how others had made theirs. Always his response, well we're going to do it better than that. As an example, the trap on others I've seen simply used machine bolts and a bunch of nuts to make the assembly. Adjusting the size would involve tedious loosening and tightening several nuts. Either that or they were welded to fit one size only. It will be a couple weeks before I get to try my hand at a deep vessel. I still have to make my steady rest and laser assembly. When I do get it all together you've got to know, I'll post pics!! Steve
  6. John Morris

    Not Very Organized

    I am far from organized as a new turner, but I do feel the need already, that's a good sign right?
  7. Steve Krumanaker

    Natural edge walnut bowl

    This is the first finished(almost) bowl from the walnut I harvested a couple months ago. Turned natural edge, it's about 11X14" and about 4" deep. Pretty happy with it except for a couple tool marks I just didn't get sanded out. I'll gift this one to my Sis for Christmas as it's from the tree that was in her yard. It's about 3/8" thick throughout and will get a few more coats of antique oil. I just have to say, I really like the picture posting procedure on this forum. Steve
  8. Steve Krumanaker

    Good teaching videos I think

    I was watching some youtube video and stumbled onto a Stuart Batty demo. He mentions a video library that has some good content and I checked it out. I haven't watched nearly all of the videos but the ones I have watched are very well done and hidef. Here's the link if anyone interested. Steve
  9. rmiller

    Rodney's Wood Lathe Campaign

    Hello everyone. I have started a campaign in order to earn enough money to purchase my own wood lathe. My membership where I currently turn is about to expire and I am not sure if I will be able to afford another membership. So please consider purchasing one or two of these shirts and by all means, please tell all of your friends. http://teespring.com/rodney-s-wood-lathe-campaign

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