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Found 30 results

  1. Anyone can join in to this fantastic tradition since 2004. Walk into any Woodcraft Store and turn pens for our troops!
  2. I have been making pens with bullet shells and then went on to nickel plating them. After that I tried the same method with copper plating. It didn't work out as well as I had hoped. I decided to go with the original formula using copper acetate and distilled water. Success! Should not have varied from the theme. The pictures don't do them justice but believe me they look like a shiny new penny. I also found out that the copper goes over the grass well but does not go over the nickel at all. Here are the best I could get for pictures. Here are all three. Polished brass, nickel plated, copper plated.
  3. Friend of mine likes his .308 rifle and gave me some shells to see if a pen could be made using them. Well yes I can. I found the .308 shell was a bit short so I figured a spacer to make it longer was needed. Looked at various ways and materials for making the spacer and ended up with cutting the top off a second shell the necessary amount would be best. I like how they turned out and since I had a few .30-30 shells I made a couple from them too. The .30-30 shell was a tad longer than the .308 and on both I had to press a piece of 5/16" brass rod through the boss for the bullet to enlarge it for the pen guts to fit.
  4. When making the .30-06 pen with the Zebra F-301 pen I start by taking the pen apart and removing the stainless tube. Take the pen apart and remove the tube with the logo on it. There is a detent on the tube so a half twist before pulling works best. I use a small pair of end nippers to grab the tube. I slide them into the hole the open pliers make and they clamp around the tube just enough to get it off. The lower ribbed part has to have 3.5 ribs turned down to fit into the shell where the bullet was. This makes the length right and the nib protrudes the correct distance when the clicker is pushed.  Mount the drill chuck and hold the ribbed section in it while the ribs are turned off. The Easy Wood Tools Ci1 square cutter works wonders for this. Next pull the clicker piece from the top of the pen. Mount a 9/64 drill bit in the drill chuck backwards and push the clicker onto it. It is a loose fit and needs pressure from the tailstock to turn it without it spinning on the bit. I have a Oneway live center and found a pencil fits into it with the center tip removed. I put enough wraps of some plastic tape on it to keep it out a small distance and turn the clicker until the chrome is sanded off to the brass underlay. I start with 220 grit and sand through 400 grit and then polish with 0000 steel wool. Be careful not to get the piece too hot as the plastic will melt. For the pen nib I took a plastic dowel I had and turned the end until it fit inside the threads and used a pointed live center to hold it in place while sanding the same way as described above. A 5/16 wood dowel can be used as well. The end of the dowel should be perfectly flat. For the .30-06 shell I remove the primer and mount it in the chuck and take the letter "O" size drill to drill through the end. To mount it for sanding I took a 5/16 bolt that was long enough to have a shoulder above the threads and cut the head off. I took a nut and ran it up to the shoulder and tightened it with a wrench so the shell wouldn't slide between the nut and bolt threads. Might want to do that before cutting the head off so it is there to hold onto. Now it is time to put the pen together and write all the love letters you been meaning to write to your significant other. I took one of the pens and made a stick pen and holder. I ran a drill bit through the bullet end of a shell to get the crimp section straight and turned the rib section as described above until it was a press fit into the shell. Put it together and found the ink cartridge was too short. I found a nail that was a tight fit into the cartridge after removing the plug and pushed it in until the right length was achieved. I DID NOT remove the primer for this one. And there you have it. No rocket science involved and a nice pen has evolved. I've already made over 80 of them. Everyone loves them. Enjoy
  5. I have never even thought of turning a pine cone. I saw this picture and was amazed. I think It looks like most of it is 2 part epoxy. Anyone ever turn one?
  6. Bought some of these kits from a company named Woodcrafters of Oklahoma. They sat in a drawer for almost 15 years. When I pulled them out, I found that this company seems to be out of business. You suggested I call Berea Hardwood, and they did send some bushings and some Parker refills for the old kits. I have run into a problem: How do I install the refill? It doesn't seem to fit into the part I believe to be the correct one. I pulled another kit I have in stock, and the refill is the same as the one in the kit. It seems that it might have to be pressed into the pen part, but I am afraid that is going to ruin the point. Anybody turned one of these pens; if so, do you have any suggestions? Thanks!
  7. You guys helped me find pen parts from Berea Hardwoods, Now, if instructs says to press parts into wooden pen parts, do you use super glue on them?
  8. I started this project a while ago and had some interruptions but finally have them done. I planned on doing 60 pen and pencil sets but stopped at 53. I kept one set to show what they looked like before I changed them to wood. The chrome tips are the pens and black tips are the pencils. Light ones are Cherry, dark ones are Black Walnut and reddish ones are Honduran Mahogany. I left one set in their original state for reference.
  9. (Click on image for link) I saw these at the Woodcraft store the last time I was there. They looked well made and ideal for marking in those hard to reach places. $19.99 + 10 pack refill
  10. I have turned stick pens for years. They make a great give away and this year I decided to give all 45 of my cousins on my late father's side of the family at our annual reunion in a couple weeks. I decided to make a few extra so I did 60. I got the Bic pens at Wally World. They were a dozen in a package for $1.17 of roughly 10 cents each. I would hope my labor is worth the other two cents. I put a personal touch to mine by making brass inserts where the Bic ink cartridge is inserted using a Unimat Hobby lathe. The pens are made from some left over Brazilian Cherry flooring and the bases were made from Poplar scavenged from pallets where I had worked. I set the bases out in the sun to darken them up a bit. Here is the Cap'n Eddie 12 Cent Pen video in case some have not seen it.
  11. Made a peeler and sketch pencil. The pencil is for the wood shop.
  12. "Of course I have Plan.." Or so Boris always said. I took the time out today to do a bit of drawing on paper, using a pen and a straightedge. Resting the knee, of course. Anyway, I start with a few lines.. What you see here is the front edge of the corner post. The horizontal lines are webframes, with a face frame attached. . I will be using a couple 1x8 x8' planks to make the bottom two drawers. So that is where the 7-1/2" comes from. Face frames are dovetailed into the corner posts. Hashed lines show where the webframes sit behind the face frame. That little square is a Kicker, I add two to the undside of the bottom frame, and one in the middle of each webframe above it. After a while of doddling.. I come up with this...mess More to find out how long to cut the corner posts, and to get the spacings for the drawers. I also have to get a couple 1 x6 x8' planks, and a 1x4 x8' or two. Top will be a 4 /4 frame, with a plywood insert. I get one drawer out of each 1 x plank, and then add a 1/4" plywood bottom. All of this, to find out what size to cut four 4/4 x 3" posts. ( 42-1/2" long) So...about the sides these posts will make? Well, I mitre cut the foot. The Horizontal here is a rail/stile (?) that will connect the front and back posts at each spot where a webframe will be on the inside. I intend to use the sash cutter on the Stanley 45 to make a molded edge on the outside of both the stiles and rails. It will also give me a rebate on the inside. I can then add a plywood panel into the rebates. About five panels on each side. A tenon will connect into a mortise, the tenon on each end of the cross piece, and the mortise into the corner post. Page two also shows a few details of the webframes... Center piece is a kicker, to keep drawers from tipping down. Counter bores for screws, I can attach each webframe to a side with two screws. I can then come back after the case is squared up with a back, and add the face frame pieces. Dovetails on each end, and a line of glue to attach to the webframes. . Long time ago, IF I have all the lumber on hand in the old two car garage workshop on a Saturday morning.....by supper time that night, a chest of drawers would be completed, awaiting a finish on Sunday. Might take just a wee bit longer, now?
  13. I saw these at Woodcraft and just had to make one.
  14. LarryS

    Pen turning

    Just got this pen done today
  15. Hi guys and ladies. For those that do not follow me on Facebook, I wanted to show something that I created for a friend. This is Corian, that is patterned to what looks to me like cream of wheat of some sort. It was sanded and polished, no other treatment (like CA) was used. This is mounted on a Slimline twist pen kit from PSI, which uses a Cross refill. It comes with a black ink refill, but you can probably get blue and maybe even red if you want it, from basically any office supply you frequent. Thank you for looking
  16. Well the historic wood pen turning project is moving along, slowly, but moving. Part of the deal was to make two special presentation boxes for those responsible for securing monies. The main turner involved doesn't have many wood working tools so the box making fell on me. No one had a plan as to what they wanted the boxes to look like. OK, I've made some boxes but I don't feel my skills are really up to what I think they should be for this type of project. Especially with this precious wood. My original design was to have the box larger, but the size of the beams and the number of defects, cracks and nail holes reduced it to around 4" x 7"x 1.5". The pieces are 1/4" thick. The old pine is very brittle but it still contained a surprising amount of sap. The number of knots would not allow me to use the planer and get this thickness, so I used my thickness sander. I had to clean the belt 3 time during the thicknessing process to remove the built up pitch. All of the dovetails are hand cut using a Japanese pull saw. The above picture show one of the "hinges". I used tiny cut nails salvaged from the original structure placed into pre-drilled holes. Right now they are just finger tight. The lid lift is also a little nail. I think this one has to be in a little deeper. I hate it that the round hole shows on the front. Although you can't tell from this picture, the bottom is thicker than the dado it fits into (bottom = 1/4" dado = 1/8"). About an inch of the perimeter is tapered to the edge allowing the fit. I'm not sure what to do with the inside. Maybe a couple of "U" shaped risers to hold the pen off of the bottom. Covering the interior would make for a nice contrast but it almost seems sacrilege to hide the patina. At this point, I am stumped on my next step. My original plan was to inlay a "Carpenter's Mark" in the outside of the top. I made an oval inlay pattern and cut a sample from some Poplar to see how it would look- I made certain I salvaged all of the carpenter's marks, before I made the pen blanks from the beam. Now, the problem. The pine is so brittle- even more so near the surface, that I fear the router inlay kit will splinter the the wood. To help strengthen the "mark", I covered the back of the piece with painters tape and saturated it with thin CA. I'll need to stop at Hobby Lobby tomorrow after school and pick up another bottle- thank goodness they send me 40% off coupons every week! So that's where I'm at, with this part- still needs more sanding! I was thinking about making the second box with a "pencil box" sliding lid.
  17. Hi Folks, Turning a lot of pens the last several weeks, I got to looking for the various ink refills, to offer on my site, and I am running into brick walls trying to find a wholesale source. It seems one can get the knock off, no brand, made in china refills for about 25 cents each (parker style ballpoint) or in excess of $5 each for carded singles. I looked at my normal sources but they dont post bulk discounts on refills. Anyone have any suggestions?
  18. Hi guys, i started on this project several days ago and just got it finished today. It is one of the pens I recently purchased a kit for that I hope will be a good seller for this time of year. The pen is quite heavy due to the wood used which is Bocote, but mainly because it is brass too. It's sure to get a few looks
  19. Here is the first pen I have made from the surf gel blank. It was very hard and brittle but turned out well. Comments and such welcome.
  20. I have made some surf gel pen blanks that are for sale for $12 each. I will normally cut them to 1 x 1 x 6 to allow for most any poen kit or kitless configuration. They are very colorful with layers of colored striations including solid and clear or translucent material. These cut well with sharp tools and polish well with wet sanding. Please check them out and tell me what you think. Blank A is approximately 5.5" Blank B is approximately 6" Blank C is approximately 7" Shipping is approxiamtely $7 Thak, Larry
  21. Charles Nicholls

    Amboyna2

    From the album: Pens

    Showing off the other. side
  22. Charles Nicholls

    Amboyna1

    From the album: Pens

    Sierra/Gatsby twist pen that I finished last night
  23. Charles Nicholls

    Redwoodburl2

    From the album: Pens

    Side 2 from a slightly different angle.
  24. Charles Nicholls

    Redwoodburl1

    From the album: Pens

    Side one of this awesome pen. I finished it to a medium gloss with CA, because I wanted it to have a look and feel of more like wood than glass.
  25. From the album: Perfume Applicators

    The same buckeye burl applicator with the lid removed.
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