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Found 195 results

  1. Shaker Rocker in Cherry Related Topics Shaker Transitional Rocker Part 1 (Curly Maple) Shaker Transitional Rocker Part 2 (Curly Maple) Current Project So folks, I decided to break this topic up in parts as the last one was getting a little long in the tooth. So you can see the links above to the first two parts of my chair build. April of 2017 is when I started this maple chair, and as you know by now I decided to pick it back up and get back out in the shop and try to focus for once on woodworking as I did in Part 2. Thanks for following me! The back support rack is assembled as can be seen in Part 2. And now it's time to bore the mortises for the side rungs of the chair. The side rungs connect the back legs to the front leg assembly rack. I use a story stick for the entire chair layout, 99 percent of this chair is cut, turned, laid out, and assembled with story sticks. In the image below I am marking out the side rungs. Once the side rungs are laid out, I am using a slant support to bore the mortises at the proper angle, so the side rungs will splay out, thus creating a trapezoidal seat. So the front of the seat will be wider than the rear. You can see my first Shaker Rocker at this Link to get an idea of what I am talking about. Also, @Gene Howe, I know what you must be thinking, why use the slant table on a drill press that is fully capable of slanting its own table? I know I know Gene. For this Rocker I don't want to deviate from my norm, but next chair I make Gene, I promise I'll utilize the tilt table of my Shopsmith. Just a side view of my slant jig, also, the Shopsmith has a wonderful table that moves on two axis, first off the tilt, and the slide, in and out for fine adjustments in accuracy, this way I could clamp the jig to the table, and with the hand wheel I can slide it in and out till the bit sits directly over the line I need to bore, I really like my SS. Another view of what I am referring too for the sliding table, it's pretty awesome. First set of mortises are bored, I am using a Freud Diablo 5/8" Forstner with center spur or pin I guess you could say, it's a very clean cut. Some of the rungs are too tight to fit in the 5/8" mortises so I like to secure them in my vise and take some rolled 80 grit and work the tenon down till it fits snuggly in the mortise. After I made sure all the rungs will fit nicely, I did a dry run to see how they all line up, and they lined up beautifully. Now it's time to bore the mortises in the front assembly, you'll see these mortises are angled inward, to catch the side rungs that are angled outward from the rear legs. I used a story stick to lay these mortises out as well. Again, the Diablo by Freud really does a nice clean cut in this seemingly brittle Maple. In my desire to turn more and more towards hand tools, this may be an operation best suited for the drill press, as the angles in these frames are very important. I will practice with a brace and bit, there are tricks that Windsor makers use to bore accurate angles by hand, but for this chair I'll continue on the beaten path I know, just to get this one wrapped up successfully, this chair will be sold, so I can't afford big errors at this point. Now that the front and rear legs are bored out, I performed another dry run before glue up. You may notice at the left, it appears the side rungs were bored at an incorrect angle, they were not, well they were, but the error was on purpose. The books I am studying for building these chairs are written by Kerry Pierce. Mr. Pierce built-in a deliberate error in this these chairs, once those rungs are inserted into the mortises, the stress of those tenons are actually locking the chair together, if there is ever glue failure, the chair will hold together mechanically. There is a wonderful story in Mr. Pierce's books, he talks about repairing an original Shaker chair, the joints were loose, the glue was void, but one thing he noticed was the chair was virtually impossible to beat apart, and he surmised it must of been because the Shaker's introduced this deliberate error in the rung angles, in order to serve as a backup in case of glue failure. Now you can really see the trapezoidal shape of the seat. I only took the below picture to show the folks what my shop looks like now. Where the Shopsmith is sitting is where my wife's car parks. When I am done for the day I'll roll the Smith to the left side of the shop against my saw bench. So what you see here is what I am down too now, I have my Smith, my lathe as you can see on the back wall, my work bench at the rear left, and a miter saw cutoff bench at the left of which you cannot see the saw, but you can see the bench area. I have downsized considerably, for folks who may not no or have ever seen my shop before, there was a huge Grizz 12" table saw with an aircraft carrier bench right where the Shopsmith is sitting now. I had a 15" Delta Drill Press at the back wall where my cabinet makers bench is now, along with a 15" Grizz band saw, a Performax sander, and and a router cabinet, and at the right side of the shop out of picture, I had a 6" Grizz jointer, a planer, and a dust collection system. I sold them all, and to be honest, I do not miss them. But that's me, it was just time, I actually feel liberated being a relative minimalist. What started my downsizing was my desire to turn my shop into a more quiet experience and to start focusing on building with hand tools and in order to force myself to use more hand tools I knew I had to rid myself of luxuries. What quickened the downsize was my wife and I purchased her brand new car last Spring, it's the very first brand new car we have ever had, and it's a nice one, a 2018 Honda Pilot Touring, that is her daily driver, and I decided I wanted to give her, and her car a proper space to park, instead of in our driveway. Also the security of her being able to just pull in and close the garage door behind her, is really comforting for me. By the way, the garage door in this image actually leads out to our backyard, it's a pull through door. The two car door is behind the photographer. It's funny how life works out, we adapt, and often times, it works out really well. I'll end this tonight with my preparation for glue up. Once again, everything I need is on my bench, and within hands reach, all the rungs have been fitted, and the next post in this topic we'll see a chair assembled. Thank you all once again for following along! I'll install the rest of the images for this day in the shop tomorrow night.
  2. Related Topics Shaker Transitional Rocker Part 1 (Curly Maple) Shaker Transitional Rocker Part 2 (Curly Maple) Shaker Transitional Rocker Part 3 (Curly Maple) The Finish Well folks, as were the others this subject was getting a little long in the tooth so I split this topic off from the 3rd entry. We'll show the finish and the seat weave in this topic. Today I was able to get out in the shop and get some finish on our rocker. I don't have really any images of the finish prep, there wasn't much to it, unless you like viewing a man holding sand paper. But mainly what occurred today was much hand sanding. I was able to leave the back slats and rockers alone, since I scraped them before installation, the figure really popped after the scraping and I was satisfied with that. And, the spindles came off the lathe sanded to 600 and then burnished with wood shavings, so the level of prep on those items were satisfactory enough to just go over once again with some 600 grit. Really I could have left all the spindle work as was, accept there was some grain raising around the joints as I cleaned up the glue with water during assembly. Also, over the course of time that I started this project, two years ago, the spindles all had a darker patina from just sitting around, than the flat work pieces of this chair. So in order to even out the patina I knocked it down by hand with 600 grit. A thing about hand sanding, this is just my opinion, when you are doing solid work like this, furnishings with parts that are many shapes, sizes, and point in various directions, I feel you must hand sand. You could hit the work with a detail sander, sure, but you are missing one very important item, the details. When you work a piece like this with power sanding, you are visually (or at least for me) kind of viewing the overall project as a whole surface, whereas if you hand sand, as you are sanding in any specific area, your eyes are drawn to that narrowed view, and you are focused, and you are going to catch many more unsightly surface features than if you powered through it all with an electric sander. Also by hand sanding, for me anyway, it's very peaceful. I had my chair out in my back patio area, it's late Spring, the trees are rustling in the wind, and the birds were chirping, and all you could hear from me was the shhhshhhhshhhhshhhh of my sand paper with the natural sounds in the background, it was really nice. I have learned to slow down my work considerably, and just to enjoy each process of the work, and not to rush anything through. This type of work lends well to that philosophy, because I really can't rush this anyway, because of the various components of a chair, my body mechanics must slow down, along with my mind, and consequently, my thoughts, and a peace builds up and the project is just fun, and relaxing. Sure you could do everything I have done on this chair with power, but why? Just so you can say you got it done faster? And with a bunch of noise? And therefore missing much of the happiness that surrounds these projects. So, I set my chair on the bench and shaped some tin foil into a bowl and poured about half a cup of Boiled Linseed Oil in the tin. I like using my home made tins, I can just use up the oil, and throw it away, there is no need to clean the bowl or container. With a white cotton rag nearby to apply the oil with we are ready. My dog Woody is nearby as usual now, as you may know by now by my other topics, he is deaf now, and he loves the shop! I love this part of the chair-making process, especially when using curly figured wood, all the efforts that were made to ensure the joints are tight and clean, the hand planing and scraping, the carefully placed wedged tenons, and chair leg pins, the pillow rail, the curly figured arm rests, it all comes alive in a crescendo of color and natural figure when the first swoop of the towel soaked in oil hits the chair, it's like Christmas all over again. I love this part. With my Appalachia music on in the background, and my dogs nearby, and my warm bench I am working off of, the chair comes alive. Something we have not discussed in prior chair topics, is the use of Ash for the top rungs that the seat is weaved around. You'll notice the Ash rungs, Ash is used because of its incredible strength, the Ash will hold a lot of weight without breaking or cracking. After I wipe on the first and only coat of oil, I'll revisit the chair several times today to wipe down the leaching areas as the oil resurfaces and beads. Typically I find about three to four times I have to revisit the chair, and wipe off the access leaching. This was a perfect day to start finishing my chair. I learned a trick a few years ago that I use often still, I can't remember where I saw it, or where I heard it from. With my chair projects, and virtually any project that you may want a darker patina built into the project before the finish goes on, you can set the project (chair) out in the sun, and let the sun do it's job for half a day or all day if you can work it out that way. I set my chair out in the sunlight for a tan, that's right, I let nature have her way with the chair in the sunlight, the sun will darken the chair a couple shades, and even bring out the curly figure a little more. Back in the day, I used to do this trick with with the project in its bare wood phase, pre-finish. But then one day I got the idea to use this technique after the first coat of oil is applied, I figured if it works on humans at the beach who want to oil up and get that sun tan, that it will probably work on my chairs, and other projects. So since then, I oil up my project, set it out in the sun for a few hours, and wipe it down as the oil will leach even more significantly when heated. A darker patina is created, and it's beautiful. Image below is the chair set in the sun immediately after the oil has been applied. A couple hours later, I don't know if you can see but the curl is actually darkening a shade. This is 5 hours later, in real life I can visually see the difference, the picture does it no justice, but perhaps you can see a change in color? So folks, the chair now has it's first and only coat of oil, and the wood has darkened a bit and the curly figure is popping, and I have wiped the chair down a few more times, and now it is back in my shop, awaiting for me to have a little more time for the final finish. I will apply one coat of General Finishes Gel Topcoat, then I'll wax the chair. Then, the seat will be placed. Thank you again for following along!
  3. Shaker Cherry Rocker Related Topics Shaker Transitional Rocker Part 1 (Curly Maple) Shaker Transitional Rocker Part 3 (Curly Maple) Current Project I hope to revive this project this weekend. All the components have been cut, steamed, bent, shaped, and now I need to chop the mortises in the rear legs for the back slats. The last time I touched this, was the last time I've done any real meaningful work in my shop, about two years ago. So far the stars are lining up for Dad and the shop the next couple days. Wish me luck! And plenty of this.
  4. Shaker Transitional Rocker Part 2 (Curly Maple) Shaker Transitional Rocker Part 3 (Curly Maple) Well here we are. Getting ready to cut into a nice 8/4 board of heavy Curly Maple to begin another rocker journey. Tonight I'm laying out parts and cutting. With any luck I'll have some slats in the steamer tonight. This photo does no justice to the figure in this board. I'll keep this topic going with this chair build. Thanks for following along! Legs are cut and squared.
  5. lew

    Garden Dibble

    From the album: Garden Dibbles

    8" Maple garden Dibble

    © Lewis Kauffman

  6. Moving along with the demo prep. Have two sticks completed and my demo routine pretty will figured out. I have to make one more stick to leave in component form and then probably a few components in different stages of completion in case of a severe catch or other catastrophe. I'd forgotten what a nice project this stick is. These two will eventually be gifted to a soon to be retired neighbor and his wife. Bruce is a good friend, and more importantly, a licensed electrician . He and I have helped each other back and forth for 30 years or more. It's always a good thing for him to owe me a favor! once a few more coats of oil are applied, the sticks get a 3/4" rubber cane tip on the bottom.
  7. Have a current order for honey dippers, this is the first batch of 20 finished. Some of the these have some really nice grain in the lids. Steve
  8. New bowl. It is maple. It measures close to 11 inches in diameter and 2 inches thick.
  9. This is a present for my sisters birthday #81. Thought the blank was curly but not so changed the color scheme. More later.
  10. To start off with, this is for a customer that wanted a darning egg to fix socks & things. Well she also wants to be able to hide her needles in the egg itself. So this is going to take a bit of ingenuity on my part and any ideas are welcome. I had thought about drilling a 1/2" hole about 2 to 3" deep in the wood to accommodate the needles and then use the handle as the plug for the hole in the egg itself. Assuming (and I hate doing it, "assuming") that I can get it to work, it should be a really great project. My issue is this, the customer says she has a bundle of needles about 3/4" in diameter. but my handle stock is only 1 3/16". If i can get a tenon turned to 3/4" or whatever makes it tight enough to hold in place, then i'm good to go. Otherwise I will have to make say a 5/8" hole to start then widen it to 3/4" with a chisel after it gets about a half to 1" in. that shouldn't be too hard either, so we'll see how it goes and what comes of it The head looks like spalted maple or box elder. The client wanted totally maple but the handle will have to be something else I think what I have here is cherry (old) but not sure.
  11. I started making Christmas gifts for family and friends. My wife wanted me to see the "Prayer cross" that some stores are selling. I liked the idea, but not the wood. I made mine out of spalted Maple. They are about 5" high and easily held in praying hands. I know several of my family members will love this. I selected the best areas of spalt, drilled holes w/forstner drill, cut each with jig saw and used the band saw to compete each. Then rough sanded with my spindle sander (smallest shaft) to give it the rough hewn look. I went thru the extra efforts cutting them out to save other areas for future use.
  12. One of the members of our woodturning club passed away some time ago, and a family member offered up his stash of unturned blanks for free. I got a few, and they have been drying out in my basement all summer. I finally started on a new bowl last week. My first issue is, what kind of wood is this? At first, I thought it was spalted maple, but after working with it, now I think it is spalted hackberry. I based my choice on some Google images I saw of wood identified as spalted hackberry. Any opinions? I also learned a couple of things while working on this bowl. Easy Wood Tools are really sharp. After carelessly handling the finishing tool, I felt something sticky on the handle. Looking down, I realized I had a small cut on my finger that I didn't feel when it happened. OK, no big deal, I'll just lick a paper towel and wipe my finger to prevent the blood from getting on my bowl. So, straight from the "Well Duh" chronicles, I proceeded to lick the inside of my face shield which I had forgotten I still had on. I guess that is good, in that my face shield is so comfortable that I can forget I am wearing it, but I still felt like an idiot. I know none of you ever do anything that you are glad goes un-witnessed. Right?
  13. Oiled up a couple bowls this morning. First is a natural edge walnut bowl not quite 14" diameter. This is a pretty big bowl, almost 6" deep. It has a really heavy bark layer on it. Next is a maple bowl about 13". This bowl is kind of like that toxic relationship everyone has had at some time or another. You know you should just walk away from it and cut your losses but just keep investing time and effort into making it work. This bowl cracked and then cracked some more. Carved out the cracks and filled them with alumilite casting resin and copper powder. If not for the really nice grain in it, it would've been toast(literally). First time working with the casting resin and I can see more of that in my future. Steve
  14. Just in time for Christmas. These were a labor of love and I'm really happy how they finished up. Even so, I am so-o-o-o glad they are done. 8 cryptex boxes for the grand kids. I have no delusions about how the boxes will compare to the fancy electronic gadgets kids want these days, but maybe one day they'll be appreciated. I think I posted in progress pictures of these a while back but not sure. I actually started them in the summer but shelved them until closer to Christmas. Last week, I decided I needed another, really had to scratch to remember how I'd done everything, even had to go back and watch Carl Jacobson's excellent video on making them again. The code on each one is their birth day with "Z"=zero and "A"=1 etc. Steve
  15. Been wanting to have one of these for my lathe and finally got around to making it. Had almost everything lying around the shop. Scrap plywood ~ 17" x 48" and a piece ~ 10" x 10". Hardware is all 1/4 x 20 machine bolts/nuts and fender washers. I may replace the wing nuts with knobs to make it a little easier on old hands. The cam action hold down has been in my "extras box" for a couple of years waiting on a worthwhile project. Got it from Woodcraft. The wheels are from an $8 pair of In-Line Skates bought from Goodwill. The "circle" is made of 3 layers of 3/4 plywood. The wheel holders are made of Maple. There is a Maple "guide" on the bottom of the base that helps trap the assembly between the lathe bed rails. I works pretty well, the wheel holders need a little sanding and bees wax to allow them to slide a bit more freely. The base may be a bit too wide although my large tool rest can allow access to the edge of the turning. Thanks for looking! Comments are always welcome!
  16. lew

    Mostly Sanded

    From the album: Honey Dipper

    sanded on lathe. Needs to have each end sanded where parting took place.

    © Lewis Kauffman

  17. I made this firetruck for my grandson 12 years ago. I went to the internet to get ideas. I used exotic woods where I could. The ladder (curly maple) extends and swivels. The hose comes off the reel and cranks back up. I painted in all the gauges. I didn't have a lathe at that time and made the wheels and rims with the drill press. The lug bolts are tacks I found. He still loves it and is displayed in his room
  18. Been dealing with some family issues and haven't been in the shop very much. I did finish a couple pieces yesterday and today. Both are maple and both are right at 12" diameter. I think these two pieces really illustrate just how versatile is maple. First is a shallow bowl or deep platter, would probably work either way. Next is a platter, my attempt at a "traditional Irish platter" from the Glenn Lucas DVD and this is also one of the things a person will turn during his class. This is wormy, spalted, maple. Actually, in the interest of full disclosure and truth in advertising, this one is wormy, spalted, maple and superglue, a ton of it. Thanks for looking. Steve
  19. The only problem with me is I can see a few more days grinding on the next thing I start after I said its finished... I changed the way I attached the things to the board! More easier than the epoxy thingy. All my carving stuff is for head on looking. I'll get around to the sides and back if there are enough years left. Baltic Birch for the backer board. I used 100% tung oil to bring out the color and maybe a little extra enhancement also. This wood is exotic as I ever go and it is actually local. The bottom picture is with a flash. The finish is lacquer. Another thing I generally do after the lacquer has dried a couple days is use 0000 steel wool and Johnson't paste wax on all the high spots to give it that old look that has been well kept and in good condition.
  20. Maple and walnut. 24" tall 15" wide and 7" deep. All joints are M&T. Sanded to 180, 3 coats of matte poly, each roughed with a white mesh pad and final finish rubbed out with Liberon #0000 SW and paste wax. Drawers are lined with the same purple felt as the wings. Wrapped cereal box card board and dropped it in and glued them. Top drawer is fitted with ring holders. A piece of 3/8 thick dense foam with knife silts. The felt was laid over the top and slid into the slits with a steel ruler. The dot is a 3/8 rare earth magnet that catches the metal piece robbed from a push-to-open magnetic catch. The wings for studs and pins are felt covered M&T frames. Four per side. They swivel on 1/8" by 1/2" brass pins. Wife and I had to align all 8 to holes in the top at the same time and, then fit the top on the tenons cut in the sides and the dado for the back. Took us well over an hour. The top is screwed on and the screws counter bores are covered with walnut pegs from Rockler. Not shown are six 1" long brass pegs across the inside top, behind the wings, for necklaces. This was one major PITA for me. But, I learned a number of new techniques, learned some new combinations of cuss words, built a few jigs and best of all, bought a couple new planes needed to complete it. I'm sure the next three will be easier.(Fingers crossed!!!!)
  21. oleglenn

    Hail Mary

    Here is what I have been working on for so long. Started out with rough cut hard maple that had been stored for a few years. It wasn't the best wood but I was able to resaw it and get enough to make this plaque. It measures 24 inches wide and 32 inches high. Wood was planed down to three sixteenths. Didn't keep track of the hours. It was a challenge but, worth it. Made it for my grandson. He is putting it in his classroom
  22. next will be my kind of carving also my favorite kind of woodworking. This is parts of three different patterns to come up with this size thingy.... Just finished scroll sawing the outside of this pattern. Its 1 1/2" maple and it sure does strain the saw. I think I will be inserting a few names somewhere in or on it.
  23. Doing a little art/craft show this weekend. That will make three for me this year, definitely have to cut back next year!! Anyway, trying to get a few pieces done to display. This maple bowl is one of them. This bowl was turned to finish green and has a nice little warp to it. Don't know why but people seem to like that. It is 17.5" diameter at it's widest point. Both of these bowls still need buffed. The bottom A little natural edge white oak bowl, I think it's interesting how spalted is the sap wood but the heart wood is solid as a rock. The bark was toast on this one before it was turned at all. This bowl is actually one from the class with Glenn Lucas last week. The lesson was on turning natural edge but also centering and balancing the bowl with the grain and getting clean cuts. About 15 minutes sanding on this one, which is cray, cray, for me. The bottom. Have shied away from turning oak, just never thought I would like it, this particular piece of wood was great to work with, cut like butter with little tear out. Steve
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