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Found 214 results

  1. Here's a Join or Die and BFranklin snake on a flatty,.......snake only on a matching primer. Horns by Bill Smith and myself. Base plugs are tiger maple as usual
  2. I made 5 of these shaker oval boxes. They’re #3s and are made from Curley maple. I’ve made about 30 of different sizes before and we’re all cherry, but I wanted to try some maple to see how well it bends...and it was great. Sanded to 220 and still need to add a finish. I think I’ll use some watch danish oil...wait three days and apply some poly. I’m actually going to try and sell these, but not sure how much to ask. I was thinking 20 buck a piece.
  3. Pauley

    Rolling pin

    Well, this is my first rolling pin of any kind. When I do something for the first time, I jump in and try the most difficult thing. This was “supposed to be a Celtic knot rolling pin. It looks more like a drunken knot...ha ha....I thought turning the taper would be difficult, but it wasn’t to bad. I know there must be a way of doing it....anyhow here is a photo of it. It’s Curley maple with walnut inlays...
  4. First batch of ornaments for the year. Mostly maple, cherry, and walnut, there are a couple sycamore globes. There is one sea urchin ornament, that one has ebony finials. We spent a few days on Jacksonville beach with my wife's brother and his wife. Two of our best friends in the world. Picked some sea urchins and this ornament will go to them as a remembrance. Most of these are dyed "inside out". A couple local gift shops sell a few of these and those are the most popular. To me, it's hard beat just plain wood grain. Thanks for looking! Steve
  5. From the album: John Morris's Hand Tools

    I got in the shop a little and decided to make my own layout tools, starting with the ever so useful 6" square. Since it's the most used size in my work, it's a good jumping off point. Then I'll create a smaller 3" followed up by a few larger squares. I love how this one feels, and you know what? No more accidental scratching or marring of wood surfaces like you may get with steel squares.
  6. Have a current order for honey dippers, this is the first batch of 20 finished. Some of the these have some really nice grain in the lids. Steve
  7. John Morris

    Curly Maple Chest

    From the album: 18th Century Connecticut Blanket Chest

    Installing the mortised lock was interesting, having to do it after the entire chest was finished was a tad stressful to say the least. But it does lock, and looks wonderful.
  8. From the album: John Morris's Hand Tools

    I built this square from left over Walnut from some project eons ago, and the Curly Maple is scrap from a Shaker Rocker I am currently building. The two pins are of Walnut as well. They are through-pins.
  9. Again. Not quite sure what will come out of there...yet. Have a lot of candy bar sized pieces of Walnut.... Couple pieces of Curly Maple.... A few pieces of White oak and some Pine.. Most are about ..1/2" thick or so. Been using a plane to square them up a bit......have to watch when I pull the plane back......the front end of the plane would slip off the end of the board, and then a finger gets cut from the sharp corners of the board. OW! needed to slow it down a notch. No pictures just yet, still not sure WHAT sort of thing the Single Brain Cell Sketch Up will come up with.....stay tuned.
  10. Related Topics Shaker Transitional Rocker Part 1 (Curly Maple) Shaker Transitional Rocker Part 2 (Curly Maple) Shaker Transitional Rocker Part 3 (Curly Maple) Shaker Transitional Rocker Part 4 (Curly Maple) Today I was able to get back in the shop and focus on this chair that has been lingering for some time now. What spurred this, is we need money. My oldest daughter who is in her senior year of college is going to be heading out next summer on missionary work overseas. So hopefully I'll be a little busy in the old shop over the next 10 months or so earning some extra funds to help pay for this big trip. She is giving violin lessons as well to pay her way, but I want to help her. We are very excited for her, yet at the same time apprehensive, the nations they are talking about going to aren't the most pleasant nations, but most locations that missionaries go too aren't, otherwise their wouldn't be a need. So, once I finish the chair, it'll go either to two locations, if the students get a fundraising auction together I'll donate the chair to the auction, if not, I'll sell it, and move on to another. Today I worked on the seat. You'll see just a few of the things needed for seat weaving in the image below. A chair that needs a seat of course. Scissors for cutting the tape and filling, No.3 upholstery nails, and a shuttle to feed the tape through while weaving the woof (explanation to follow) So in seat weaving there are two facets to weaving, and they are obvious, you need to weave from back to front first, and then cross weave from side to side last. For square shaped seats it may not matter, but it is tradition to weave front to back first, then side to side in any checkerboard, herringbone and diamond pattern weave. Please see a couple definitions below. Warp - The WARP is one length of tape wrapped around the seat rails from front to back. Woof - The WOOF is one length of tape wrapped around the seat rails from side to side and woven under and over the warp in a checkerboard, herringbone or diamond pattern. To start the Warp one end is placed at the back inside corner of the side rail, and nailed in place. I first set the No.3 nail with a slight tap of a small hammer as I had in image above. Then with a pair of channel locks I squeeze the nail in place, instead of hammering it in place. Some folks will hammer the nail in place but I like the method of squeezing it in place, I'd rather not beat on the chair if I don't have too. After the first nail is in place, I simply feed the roll of tape over and under the back and front seat rungs, this is the easiest and quickest portion of this job, since we don't have to be concerned about actually weaving, just wrapping, it goes quick. In image below the Warp is in loosely. You may notice my seat rungs are not finished, that was on purpose, unfinished seat rungs tend to grip the fabric tape more, and hold it in place. You'll see in image below I measured the distance from the front leg to the tape, and I'll make sure the distance is the same on the other side as well. So we have about 2 5/8" on both sides, close enough for this work. After grabbing each and every Warp and giving it a firm pull to tighten them up, I clamped the last front Warp to the front seat rung, to hold it in place while I nail off the last Warp to the other side seat rung. All tightened up and nailed off. Next I fit and cut to size the batten for the seat cushion. In the old days they used feather filled pillows. Some folks still use a pillow filled with their choice of softness, I am using polyester fill batten from JoAnne's Fabric. I have seen other weavers use small already made pillows available at JoAnne's Fabric as well, my next chair I will use the pillow, I like the idea of the pillow. The book I read to learn how to build these chairs by Kerry Peirce, he uses the method I am using, so being the student, I just followed his example. After I sized the batten, I stuffed it carefully between the Warp. There it is, all in place. Once the Woof is woven, you won't see hide nor hair of the batten, it will be locked in place and hidden. So tomorrow I plan on getting the side areas filled in for the Warp weave, they have to be separate strips cut to length, and then nailed in place to fill in the side triangle areas, then I can start weaving the Woof. Here is an interesting tidbit of word play. EDIT 11-11-19: See the continuation of this seat process at the REPLY.
  11. From the album: Shaker Furniture

    This is the first time I have played with actually photographing my work in a more professional way, with the help of my kids, I think we did pretty good. This chair was another fun build, I just love these chairs.
  12. From the album: Shaker Furniture

    If anyone has an critiques regarding the photography of this chair, please share, I want to learn how to photograph work like this. Thanks!
  13. From the album: Shaker Furniture

    The seat is checkerboard weaved, with 5/8" fabric tape available at Shaker Chair Tape WWW.SHAKERWORKSHOPS.COM Copyright © 2019, Shaker Workshops
  14. lew

    Turned Kitchen Scoops

    So I'm down to making gifts for the nurses at my doctor's office. I rarely visit the office for a "Sick Call" but I do take care of their computers. It's always an inconvenience for the nurses when I have to interrupt their routines, so I try and make up for it by making each of them a little something every year. My sister gave me this idea a couple of years ago when she gifted me a turned scoop and I've been meaning to make some ever since. I had some walnut and maple boards left from previous projects so they got glued into turning blanks. Some were all walnut and some were walnut and maple combinations. Mounted between lathe centers, I turned a chuck tenon on each blank. Over the years, I got tired of measuring the calipers every time I turned a chuck tenon so I made this quick little helper jig to make the measurements. One side is for the tenon, the other side of the jig is for measuring for the outside of the chuck mounting. Sizing the tenon As I was making a bunch of these, I do each operation to all of the blanks before moving on to the next step. Next, removed the drive center and replaced it with the chuck and prepared to drill out the bulk of the material for the scoops. The first hole was just under 2" in diameter (my largest Forstner bit) this hole set the depth of the scoop. Because I wanted the "back" of the scoop to be more rounded, I needed to also set the depth limit of that portion as well. I used my shop made drilling gauge to finish out the settings. Finished drilling The blanks were then remounted in the chuck in preparation for completing the insides. To assure the blanks get centered properly, I made a cone adapter that fits over the tail stock live center Once securely chucked, The cone is pulled out and work can begin enlarging and shaping the inside. Each of the square blanks were slightly different dimensions, so every scoop was unique. I did sand the inside of each blank as it was shaped using my shop made ball sander. The ball sander is from Mr. David Reed Smith. You can read the free instructions here- http://www.davidreedsmith.com/articles/foamballsander/foamballsander.htm. Once the inside was sanded, the outside of the blank was rounded, using the cone for support. I have several of these cones- of different sizes- and they really come in handy. To be able to shape the outside of the scoops, I needed to reference to depth of the rounded "back". A simple depth indicator does the trick. (Notice the black indicator mark near the chuck end of the blank. I have gotten into the habit of marking my blanks with a reference mark that aligns with a reference mark on the chuck. This assures the blanks are always remounted in the same orientation in the chuck.) The depth of the recess is transferred to the outside of the rounded blank. The blanks are all marked and read for shaping. Set the overall length, and shape the scoops When I finished the shaping and sanding, I had 9 "bells" of which I forgot to take a picture. Anyway, To convert the "bells" into scoops, I needed to cut each one on the bandsaw. Problem here was trying to safely hold each one and to be sure the cut was vertical across the scoop opening. To accomplish this I made a jig to hold the scoop. The following pictures describe the process- This hole was drilled almost through the blank and then enlarged to match the average diameter of the scoops. A piece of 1/4" plywood in tacked to one of the jaws of the wooden screw clamp and one half of the drilled block is also attached to that jaw. The opposite jaw with attached half block is free to move. The jig and its' base made it easy to cut the curved profile on the scoop opening. All cut and ready for finish sanding With the hot bee's wax/mineral oil finish I think the presents are done for this year. A few extra scoops in case we need a quick present- or I forgot some one! Thanks for following along!
  15. Pauley

    Lidded box

    I just finished turning this lidded box on my new Laguna Revo 12/16 lathe. What an awesome lathe it is! this is a Curley maple lidded box with a bloodwood top and maple finial. I’m thinking I should have made the finial a little thinner, but not sure. I sanded from 80 grit to 4000 grit. Then went over it with Triple E and then used Aussie Oil for the final finish. This is the first time I worked with bloodwood and it is very hard, which surprised me as I thought Purple Heart was extremely hard...but the bloodwood is probably just as hard. But it finishes beautifully. Feel free to criticize...especially on the finial. I’m not to good at doing them...
  16. Local habitat store had some dowel rods for a buck a piece. Got these Maple and Cherry ones in my stash now.
  17. Years ago I made a cabinet for a local customer, who became my friend. I have the cabinet in our gallery here. I put out the call on Facebook to see if any of my local buddies had a truck leaf spring I could have to build a Froe with. My buddy who I made this cabinet for answered back with a big yes. He is restoring his 1942 Ford Jeep he's had since he was a teen and he purchased new springs. He's 69 years old today. My son and I went over to his home this morning to pick up my leaf spring and while there I found the cabinet I built right where I installed it a few years ago. Just thought I'd take a couple pictures of it this morning and show it off here, I still love this piece. This project was one of those times I really hated seeing one leave my shop. He collects Pewter Molds among many other interests. Curly Maple purchased from Bob Kloes Lumber, dyed with Transfast Colonial Maple, one coat of BLO, one coat of shellac, and one coat of oil based varnish. I don't remember the cut of shellac I used, and I don't remember the varnish brand.
  18. Dale Felice

    Maple rustic chair 3

    From the album: Construction projects

    Front view.
  19. I had the best birthday I ever had. For the first time I corralled my lovely little granddaughters into the shop to make a couple of hot plate fish shape trivets for their mother. She'd been feeling poorly and I told the little girls that there's nuthin in the world that makes a mommy feel better about things than gifts from their babies that were made by their babys hands with love care and diligence. So we selected from shapes of fish I snarfed off the WWW and got some apple and maple logs (yes that's right we started with logs - short ones, but logs just the same) and resawed and jointed and planed and ripped strips and crosscut pieces of the contrasting color wood. Then we glued up the pieces and left them over night and the next day - - - Yah it was a two day job. The next day we changed the band saw blade together and I showed em how to transfer laser printouts to wood using acetone then with the fish images properly transferred I held them close with my hands on theirs and guided them while they took their work pieces and sawed the fish shapes out on the band saw. Then it was off to the bench for an hour or so of sanding and stroking with files and wood shaped and strips to get the edge contours just right. And they signed them with a wood burn in a discrete place. That night we all had a birthday / new years eve party. It was the best birthday ever. And of course mommy was most pleased.
  20. My latest woven basket illusion, a ceremonial basket design that I call Navajo Rain Cross. The cross symbol can also be found on Navajo rugs and pottery and is often used to represent Spider Woman, the first Navajo deity. The basket is twelve inches in diameter and the wood is maple. Beading, pyrography and ink were used to create the basket illusion. It was donated to the SWAT 2019 Symposium and selected as an auction item.
  21. Found these at a local repurpose store. They are drawer rejects from Kraftmaid & the person had one job, cut the slot for the bottom of the drawer. Measures 7.25" x 22" unfinished maple. For $1.50 each they were hard to pass up I cut off the dove tails & the mistake and that left me with a 6" x 20.5" board. Set up a jig in my drill press and drilled a 1/4" hole 3.5" deep. Realized after the first hole that it doesn't matter how long the bit is, the travel on the drill press is still only 3". Finish that with a hand drill. Cut a tapered slot on the table saw to accept a cheese slicer. Soften the edges with a round over bit & routed an area were you can put some crackers or olives. A butcher block finish was applied Rubber feet and hardware installed. These had some knots I needed to remove.
  22. I guess it is overdue that I posted some pictures of my builds. Critique is always welcomed, as I like to learn from experience. The most recent piece is this, The Harlequin Table, which is a side table I built for my wife ... The case is Hard Maple from the USA. The drawer fronts are Black Walnut, figured Hard Maple, and pink Jarrah (hence the name, Harlequin). The drawer sides are quartersawn Tasmanian Oak, and the drawer bottoms/slips were made from Tasmanian Blue Gum. Finish was, initially, two coats of dewaxed UBeaut Hard White Shellac (the very faint amber adds a little warmth), followed by three coats of General Finishes water-based poly (this remains clear - does not yellow the maple - and appears to have some UV protection. It is hard wearing, which is necessary for a side table). The build features mitred, rounded dovetails and bow front and back. Eight drawers featuring compound dovetailing to match the bow front. Drawers are traditional half-blind dovetails at the front and through dovetails at the rear, with drawer bottoms into slips. About 2 months to build, mainly on weekends. Here is the rear of the table (which will be seen through the windows, which run floor-to-ceiling along the family room ... The pulls were shaped from what-I-believe-to-be-some-type-of Ebony ... The obligatory dovetails ... Do you think that anyone will notice that the drawer bottoms run sequentially? A last look ... Details of the build are on my website. Scan down this page to Harlequin Table: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/index.html Regards from Perth Derek
  23. Another new bowl. If you haven't guessed by now I love to turn bowls. This one is around 12 inches in diameter and 4 inches thick. It is maple, purple heart and blood wood. The finish is beeswax. Thanks for looking.
  24. From the album: John's Shop

    I recently inherited this beautiful workbench. The top is 4" thick, 6.5' long by 24" wide with a tool well at the rear. The top is composed of Maple and Oak billets, there are dog holes and the original owner made his own dogs out of aluminum rounds, they work very well. The end vise is large and very powerful. The cabinet is made of oak, with oak drawers and walnut pulls. I will be using the bench as my primary work surface for all I do, I cannot wait to start work on it. I purchased the hold fasts from a fellow on ebay, he hand forges them and sells them at a very reasonable price. I have already tried them and they truly do hold fast! More than likely I will remove the surface mounted vise as it will be in my way, but it is a nice vise, I'll mount it elsewhere in my shop space.
  25. Related Topics Shaker Transitional Rocker Part 1 (Curly Maple) Shaker Transitional Rocker Part 2 (Curly Maple) Shaker Transitional Rocker Part 3 (Curly Maple) The Finish Well folks, as were the others this subject was getting a little long in the tooth so I split this topic off from the 3rd entry. We'll show the finish and the seat weave in this topic. Today I was able to get out in the shop and get some finish on our rocker. I don't have really any images of the finish prep, there wasn't much to it, unless you like viewing a man holding sand paper. But mainly what occurred today was much hand sanding. I was able to leave the back slats and rockers alone, since I scraped them before installation, the figure really popped after the scraping and I was satisfied with that. And, the spindles came off the lathe sanded to 600 and then burnished with wood shavings, so the level of prep on those items were satisfactory enough to just go over once again with some 600 grit. Really I could have left all the spindle work as was, accept there was some grain raising around the joints as I cleaned up the glue with water during assembly. Also, over the course of time that I started this project, two years ago, the spindles all had a darker patina from just sitting around, than the flat work pieces of this chair. So in order to even out the patina I knocked it down by hand with 600 grit. A thing about hand sanding, this is just my opinion, when you are doing solid work like this, furnishings with parts that are many shapes, sizes, and point in various directions, I feel you must hand sand. You could hit the work with a detail sander, sure, but you are missing one very important item, the details. When you work a piece like this with power sanding, you are visually (or at least for me) kind of viewing the overall project as a whole surface, whereas if you hand sand, as you are sanding in any specific area, your eyes are drawn to that narrowed view, and you are focused, and you are going to catch many more unsightly surface features than if you powered through it all with an electric sander. Also by hand sanding, for me anyway, it's very peaceful. I had my chair out in my back patio area, it's late Spring, the trees are rustling in the wind, and the birds were chirping, and all you could hear from me was the shhhshhhhshhhhshhhh of my sand paper with the natural sounds in the background, it was really nice. I have learned to slow down my work considerably, and just to enjoy each process of the work, and not to rush anything through. This type of work lends well to that philosophy, because I really can't rush this anyway, because of the various components of a chair, my body mechanics must slow down, along with my mind, and consequently, my thoughts, and a peace builds up and the project is just fun, and relaxing. Sure you could do everything I have done on this chair with power, but why? Just so you can say you got it done faster? And with a bunch of noise? And therefore missing much of the happiness that surrounds these projects. So, I set my chair on the bench and shaped some tin foil into a bowl and poured about half a cup of Boiled Linseed Oil in the tin. I like using my home made tins, I can just use up the oil, and throw it away, there is no need to clean the bowl or container. With a white cotton rag nearby to apply the oil with we are ready. My dog Woody is nearby as usual now, as you may know by now by my other topics, he is deaf now, and he loves the shop! I love this part of the chair-making process, especially when using curly figured wood, all the efforts that were made to ensure the joints are tight and clean, the hand planing and scraping, the carefully placed wedged tenons, and chair leg pins, the pillow rail, the curly figured arm rests, it all comes alive in a crescendo of color and natural figure when the first swoop of the towel soaked in oil hits the chair, it's like Christmas all over again. I love this part. With my Appalachia music on in the background, and my dogs nearby, and my warm bench I am working off of, the chair comes alive. Something we have not discussed in prior chair topics, is the use of Ash for the top rungs that the seat is weaved around. You'll notice the Ash rungs, Ash is used because of its incredible strength, the Ash will hold a lot of weight without breaking or cracking. After I wipe on the first and only coat of oil, I'll revisit the chair several times today to wipe down the leaching areas as the oil resurfaces and beads. Typically I find about three to four times I have to revisit the chair, and wipe off the access leaching. This was a perfect day to start finishing my chair. I learned a trick a few years ago that I use often still, I can't remember where I saw it, or where I heard it from. With my chair projects, and virtually any project that you may want a darker patina built into the project before the finish goes on, you can set the project (chair) out in the sun, and let the sun do it's job for half a day or all day if you can work it out that way. I set my chair out in the sunlight for a tan, that's right, I let nature have her way with the chair in the sunlight, the sun will darken the chair a couple shades, and even bring out the curly figure a little more. Back in the day, I used to do this trick with with the project in its bare wood phase, pre-finish. But then one day I got the idea to use this technique after the first coat of oil is applied, I figured if it works on humans at the beach who want to oil up and get that sun tan, that it will probably work on my chairs, and other projects. So since then, I oil up my project, set it out in the sun for a few hours, and wipe it down as the oil will leach even more significantly when heated. A darker patina is created, and it's beautiful. Image below is the chair set in the sun immediately after the oil has been applied. A couple hours later, I don't know if you can see but the curl is actually darkening a shade. This is 5 hours later, in real life I can visually see the difference, the picture does it no justice, but perhaps you can see a change in color? So folks, the chair now has it's first and only coat of oil, and the wood has darkened a bit and the curly figure is popping, and I have wiped the chair down a few more times, and now it is back in my shop, awaiting for me to have a little more time for the final finish. I will apply one coat of General Finishes Gel Topcoat, then I'll wax the chair. Then, the seat will be placed. Thank you again for following along!
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