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Showing results for tags 'saw'.
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Was in an Estate sale the other weekend.. 22" long..10 ppi... That says Diamond Edge...cleaned it up ( spent $1 for it) Was trying to clean up the etch...and see who sold it.... Shapleigh Hardware Co. Diamond Edge No. D E 0 1 4 0 Teeth were still quite sharp DAMHIKT... Brass shined up...tried it out on some pine scrap..cut like butter... So...now it is hanging up with the rest of the ready-to-use saws..amongst other stuff....( that wrench is a Barcola..brand )
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Added a few to my collection almost new.
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I found this young mans video entertaining, while building his Tea Cabinet. At first when I saw his shop full of Japanese hand tools, and he starts out by processing his lumber by power, I questioned why did he have all the hand tooling if he's only going to process by power, but he quickly transitions to hand tools and displays his skill with the craft. I do love the simplicity and minimalist design of the cabinet. On a side note, I recognize that Hitachi F1000A combo jointer surface planer he has, I had one just like it, and I do love his little table saw.
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I often need to cut or recut several small pieces way too small to hand hold and pass through the table saw. To accomplish this safely and cut several at once I take a length of straight flat board lay down a strip or two of double sided tape as needed and stick as many of the small pieces as possible to the straight board. I leave a couple of inches on the lead end and a couple of inches on the trailing end to make the entry and exit safer. I use this double sided tape it holds like super glue, this stuff www.amazon.com/dp/B07BBL4JXJ To get a release you can simply try to twist twist the pieces to shear the tape grip but if the pieces are small or delicate use some denatured alcohol on the tape it will release nice with just a little twist or prying up with a thin edge. Best to replace the tape for each run. The picture shows the setup calabrese55
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The latest chapter. (BTW, I had spinal surgery yesterday and "avoid strenuous activity for 6-8 weeks. All my Xmas projects are done, so you might see more of my posts here). Why do people think dowels, dominos, or biscuits are necessary for edge-to-edge glue ups. I can understand some assistance in alignment when needed but there are other ways. Dowels, in particular are fussy with alignment and don't add strength. Dowel joints are not very strong. I read a FWW article years ago about why. Boiled down to two reasons: minimal glue surface, most of which is end grain and differential expansion of wood. I have reglued dozens of chairs where once I removed the corner blocks, the pieces just pull apart. Why is a miter saw on the top list of things for a newbie? Unless you are doing construction or on site work, you can do most anything with a table saw. And it has limited types of cuts it will make. Unless you do a lot with sheet goods or live edge planks, ditto for a track saw. Why do people put so much glue on that there are puddles of it running out once clamped.
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I see more and more of these coming on the market. I have a couple of "Clamp & Guides" and some shop-built guides, but wonder how they're all working. Do any of you have one you like (or dislike). I'm thinking we might use one of these at the furniture bank for cutting out melamine sheet goods. There's one size that's too big for the table saw we have. Repeatability of cuts would be a BIG help as we do about 68 table tops at a session but only 3 different sizes. Would be nice not to have to measure each one (measure once, cut 24 times). Fe$tool is probably out of the question due to cost. But we'd need to get a circular saw to go with one of the guide-only aftermarket versions http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/track-saw-review/ http://www.boratool.com/ https://www.kregtool.com/store/c48/saw-attachments/p424/rip-cuttrade/ https://www.kregtool.com/store/c48/saw-attachments/p425/accu-cut/
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As the shop grows I have some questions. I am purchasing a $200 saw from amazon. I need to cut a slot in plywood to make a hand grip. I can do this with other tools but I need an excuse to get my new tool. This is a 7/8" dia connected to another 7/8" diameter with 4" on the outside of the curves. Can a scroll saw cut straight lines better than a jig saw?
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Normally, I would just refer to my own thread about parts suppliers over on Woodworking Talk. However, I need parts for a 65 year old saw that hasn't been manufactured for 60 years. I picked up a Yuba Sawsmith RAS (circa 1959-60) last year. I didn't realize it at the time, but it's missing a number of parts that I have to have to make it functional/operational. A lot of things from years ago are no longer available. I have read through the entire thread on the Shopsmith Forum about this machine. If anyone has one of these machines that they are willing to part out OR if you see one of these machines for sale somewhere, please let me know. Any help in finding replacements is greatly appreciated. Please help!!! Here's a list of what I am looking for (Ref. No, Part No., Description): Mandatory - Motor-Carriage Assembly 53 - 4864 - Nut-Spindle, L.H. 87 - 27032 - 1-1/4" Arbor-Saw 13 - 2355 - Washer Needed but not required - Motor-Carriage Assembly 54 - 4868 - Wrench-Arbor 98 - 700040 - Anti-Kickback Assembly Rubber boot that covers the unused side of the arbor shaft Mandatory - Base, Column, Arm and Table 23 - 4694 - Wire-Coiled 24 - 4698 - Wire-Main, with Plug 76 - 700048 - Lock Assembly-With Key (My key is stuck in the on position and won't turn. The key is also partially broken.) Needed but not required - Base, Column, Arm and Table 80 - 700057 - Switch Assembly (I'm missing the plastic "Start" button, but the switch itself works.) I'm also curious if anyone knows whether or not a more recent (or past) SHOPsmith arbor w/ the set screw will work with the old RAS? Thanks for your thoughts and input!
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The US Government is About to Change Table Saws
frenchwwr posted a topic in Machinery, Tools, Research, Reviews and Safety
Just a heads up if you are thinking of buying a Table Saw in the near future. -
Anyone remember when these were the rage? One for sale here for $20
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Hello. I have an older Delta 34-740 I was building a chicken brooder box and the motor quit. The blade spins free but I don't know what to you or how to get a replacement motor. I'm in East TN. Thanks! Shona
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Perusing videos about the use of Radial Arm Saw's, I found this wonderful video on cutting miters on the RAS, crown molding. The thought process involved in cutting the miters for crown is highly simplified using the Flying Wing Jig. Hope you enjoy the video as much as I did. Also, this gent in this video, is the son of Mr Sawdust! Pretty cool. Mr. Sawdust MRSAWDUST.COM Home of Master The Radial Arm Saw — by Mr. Sawdust, Wallace Kunkel — Master Furniture-Maker, Teacher & Founder of the Mr. Sawdust...
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I inherited my father's woodworking equipment when he passed in 2014. One of the most cherished pieces was his Craftsman RAS. This was his only saw. He never had a table saw. He did rip cuts, bevels, miters and all with it. I can remember standing beside it and watching him as he would cut his projects out. I'm 6.1 and my dad was about 5.9ish. When I brought the saw to my shop the first thing I did was the one thing I'd wanted to do for years, that was to raise the saw table to my height. I could not stand to have to bend over to see the blade. He would always say when I'd suggest things that "when it's your saw you can do with it whatever you want.". I removed it from the original stand and built a new taller stand. Since I was in a small workshop I put casters on it to make it mobile. I also added a drawer to hold blades and tools for changing them and recalibration. The table top was still the original 3x2x2 particle board from the mid 80's so the second thing was to replace it. At first I was just going to use a regular piece of plywood but, then my brother was moving and had to get rid of his old dinning room set. I had one of those epiphany moments while toting one of the leafs out the door. It was good solid wood, factory made and finished, smooth sliding surface and the perfect length and width. It was as if all the planets were aligned and everything was right in the world. Now all I had to do was figure out how to attach it so it could be removed easily if need be. My first thought was to have recessed bolts through the top. That was quickly shot down cause I wanted a smooth solid top. After some serious pondering and several failed ideas I finally had the solution. I took the piece of plywood from the original idea and mounted it to the saw. Then I cut some brackets that fit flush so I could slide it off when it needed to be replaced or removed. I attached it to the plywood from the bottom with 1 1/2 inch screws to keep it from sliding front to back. It worked like a charm. He also wanted the shortest fence possible. If it would just catch the wood and hold it he was happy. I like a tall fence so that was another thing that got changed. It had finally emerge into "my saw now". Over the years there has been many a board foot cut on this saw. Every time I use it it makes me think of my dad and that makes me smile.
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I found this site a while ago researching a saw set that I ended up selling him and is still identified http://members.acmenet.net/~con12a/
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Most likely you're going to need an Fb account https://www.facebook.com/reel/2605323562960720 Found a YouTube link
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There's nothing quite as pleasing as cutting through-dovetails for a box. Straight forward in execution and satisfying when done.
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I made a glue up of purple Hart & YellowHart about inch & half square. I cut the end into a pyramid on my table saw then turned it on my lathe. I cut it very slowly with a fine blade. Then moved it to lathe for final turning
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One of my Facebook acquaintances is a trucker on the road most of the time, even as a trucker, his love of woodworking does not escape him, when he has some downtime on the road, he works the wood in his sleeper cab. Talk about the love for it! In this image he is making a wooden hand plane, from the sleeper cab of his truck, hat off to ya sir!
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A $2 rusty saw.... Seems to have a bit of Family History to it... 26", 8ppi, 4 steel bolts, Warranted Superior medallion....skew back. Hmmm.... Ok, the back story...it seems my late FIL ran a Hardware Store in DeGraff, OH. late 40s, to the early 70s....Kinnan's Hardware. A few doors to the south on that same block, was Hoke's Variety Store. One fine day, Mr. Hoke decided he needed to buy a handsaw. He walked in to the hardware store...paid $1.50 for a Disston saw, Not wanting to splurge on the top of the line saws, he bought a Keystone Brand, K-2 Speedster saw. Fast forward a couple decades....I stop at a garage sale, being run by Mr. Hoke's Daughter....and buy that very saw for $2......inflation, right? Gave the saw a good cleaning.. Even clocked the steel bolts... Was just barely making out an etch...Found the "Keystone" and what looked like a race car....hard to tell, with the block lettering across it....More research.. I knew it wasn't the K-3 Pacemaker.. Different handle, Etch of 2 fellows jogging in a race ( Pacesetter), different wood.. Both have a skew back blade, both are 8ppi cross cut. Looked it up at the Disstonian Institute...Saw came out about 1935...was made up to 1951 or so...etch showed a racecar...with those block letters "SPEEDSTER" . Sold for $1.50 retail. Decided to give the worn teeth a refresh...got out Mr. Wentworth's No. 1 Saw Vise.. And a saw file or 2... Red handled one seemed to fit the teeth better..took a while, had to move the saw twice... Just following the pattern of the cross cut teeth...Points were merely worn down a touch. Saw plate, on the other hand....needed to be straightened out...seems Mr. Hoke hit a sidewalk a couple times...and added a couple bends out near the toe of the saw... Top of the bench's leg, and a 24 oz Ball Pean hammer.....about 10 minutes of banging out the kinks...plate is now straight. Ready for the test drive.. All that splintered stuff on the end? was from the K-3...cuts a bit too rough, and fast....as for this "new" saw's cut.. Cuts as straight as the operator will allow...but, no drifting in the cut...had to slow down a bit. ...to avoid that vise handle...but.. Ever see a hand saw leave burn marks? Back side of the cut looks a lot better than the one by the K-3. Saw should be ready for the next 70+ years....
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This is how I saw the perfect width for the inserts in to the corners of my frames
Smallpatch posted a topic in Woodworking Tips
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A small cardboard box had this sitting inside.... I stuck the edge guide in place, so as not to loose the dang thing...Logo? Never heard of it....might be before my time? 3 prong plug, though...Price? Yep...$2.00...even came with a blade.. There is a set screw that goes through that hole, another the notch goes up against... So...talk to me about this pointy thing.... Do I turn the guide over, and this becomes a circle cutting jig? Bar that slides in and out of the base, has a scale in inches. Foot plate can be tilted to do 45s? One of 2 old power tools I picked...the other is a WEN No. 930 ( $4.45) Power planer... and... And.. I guess these will fit right in with my SKIL Home Shop 6" circular saw ( all metal,too) Not too bad of a rust hunt?
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Well, I finally got the Laguna bandsaw from the fundraiser in December. It got delivered on Friday, Apr 2. It took me awhile to get it all together and set up properly. At least I hope it is set up properly. I made a cut to check blade drift, and I can't see any drift at all. And that is with the fence locked up square to the table with no adjustments. I am posting a picture of that cut, showing a marked line, and the cut line slightly off from the marked line to see it it wandered at all, and it looks perfect to me. The lighting in the picture of the bandsaw is weird, but that is because I normally have a "corn" light in that room that I purchased from Rockler. That is a very bright light, and it flooded out the picture, so I had to remove it and put in a weaker flood light to get a better picture. So here are the pictures.
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From the album: John Morris's Hand Tools
My beautiful frame saw I acquired a few months ago, I love this tool. It cuts wonderfully. Did I say it's beautiful! The top horizontal bar is turned to tension the blade. -
What is an "Electronic" Radial Saw?
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I know that Radial Arm saws are not in favor these days , but what can I say I cut my teeth on these saws and have my old Craftsman set up for cross cutting. I use it for just that purpose, no angles or ripping. The saw is known for making lots of saw dust and it piles up in the most inconvenient place, behind the saw. I rigged up a dust collection box behind the blade that the blade is buried in when not in use. The dust collector 6" duct is attached to the top of the box, the front of the box is the fence. Then I made a ZC insert for the blade that slides in and out of the table to the front with a dado under where the saw blade cuts that extends back to the DC box. This system works 98% to remove the saw dust, and the ZC is replaceable. Herb
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