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Showing results for tags 'rip fence'.
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I've just received a molder set and dado set; I'm planning to use them on my Shopsmith Mark V/500. I'm wanting to build a rip fence (vertical) extension which can also be used as a sacrificial for work right up against the fence. Right now I'm planning to use a 1 x 8 x 2' piece of lumber and dado out a 3/4" wide x 3/8" deep slot lengthwise where I can mount a pair of featherboards to help control the work as it moves past the heads. I have one featherboard from Shopsmith already; I was planning to mount that horizontally before the blade. Last I checked Rockler had some featherboards on sale; I was going to get two from them and then cut my slot so that they come down within 1/2" of the saw table at maximum extension. First question: Does this sound like a good plan? Second question: What kind of wood would the more experienced hands here recommend? I should be able to get poplar for $7.88, oak for $11.28, and then of course there's always whitewood or softwood. I'm new at this and I'll always be able to go back and re-do it in the future if necessary, but what would the old hands suggest to a beginner?
Hello all, I have an inherited Craftsman 113 from my Grandpa, to my dad and now mine. I have restored and it works pretty great for my weekend adventures. This past week I have finally gotten fed up with stock rip fence and I am wondering what your opinions are for the Delta T3 rip fence as a replacement. Thank you.
Another collection of peculiar workshop related items. The stories and pictures you are about to see are real. Call it an obsession, sickness, hoarding, or missing fence rescue, IDK why I do it...I just do... Before you judge me and my madness illness, you should first speak to those voices in my head. Rest assured once you do, you'll be snatching orphan fences from the hands of the weak and infirmed too. With maybe a couple of exceptions, all have been $1 or less. those on the right probably 10-30 cents/ea. The Craftsman on the far left was a buck (maybe less), NIB at a yard sale. Some of the others again were 50 cents or less and maybe in a bucket or box with other "treasures" for a buck or two. Same pic as above, only with the box closed. If I recall, these two were $3...purchased from a Habitat for Humanity Restore in Illinois. Must have come out of a retailer who had a fire since there was soot all the packages and the packages were stained like water damage. The B&D will be assigned to a new old stock B&D 7-1/4" circular saw I bought at a flea market for $20. It was missing the fence. circular saw obsession will be a future post unless good weather comes first. As twisted as it may seem, there at least another 6 or 8 not pictured here. They've actually been assigned to orphan tools. Two of which were identical and perfect for my 5-1/2" cordless 19.2V Craftsman and my 18V Ryobi. Another was assigned to an old Craftsman Jig saw I rescued and re-furbed. I think I gave my ex-SIL a couple too. Well thanks for looking...they tell me it's time for my meds.
In the middle of digging the router table out of it's hide-out....something came out as well... Just three pieces of scrap, glued and screwed together.....into a rip/crosscut jig.....or fence. Long ago, I made this little jig, to replace the cheapo fence on a DeWalt Job Site saw...You can barely see a cleat under the near end...it was sized to ride on the fence's rail. Couple of c clamps to attach to the rail. Have since used this as a saw guide for crosscuts with the circular saw. Also can guide a router for doing dados. Might just set it up as a rip fence for the bandsaw.. Something like this? Figures, now that all the rip cuts are done, this jig shows up.... May do a story about how this was made.....as the story in the old WOOD forum is long gone...
My Hammer rip fence died. AT LAST~!!!!! I hated that thing. It was as if some one brought their 12 year old to work and let her design and engineer the rip fence. So I order some stinkin bleedin OVERKILL metal 0.200" thick 2" x 3" steel tube 1/4" thick 3" x 3" angle Some more smaller angle and some 2"x 3/8" bar. I had a hunk of 3/8 x 6" laying around Here's my progress so far: End view of the Fence in progress There are 13, 1/4-20 bolts holding them together pinned on the ends with dowel pins Yes I hand tapped them. I hung it on the saw tonight. There is also an end support. This is about 60 pounds of steel. There are only two bolt locations on the Euro style saw. That left a huge honking long mess of steel cantilevered off the end looking solely for support to some sheet metal tables they sell with the saw. It's really a small piece of cast iron they have for the saw. IT works but it's not big. My saw is stationary. So I cheated. I installed an end support for the fence onto the concrete floor. I anchored a hunk of 6" x 3/8" steel to the floor with TapCons. But first I welded a hunk of angle to that so it's stand vertically and installed a cap with a 3/8-16 tapped hole for a leveling screw. So now, I can adjust the angle of the dangle quite nicely. No pics of it on the saw tonight. To much of a mess. Now I'm cutting iron and brass for the L fence. It's going to have a hunk of Aluminum extrusion as the main fence component but it'll lock to the guide rails mush like ( only way far better than ) a Biesemeyer. I plan on fabricating an eccentric cam clamp using ball bearings to eliminate scrub wear. Can't use a Bies' or a Vega because it's a Euro saw and the T style won't do. It's got to be an L style