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Found 13 results

  1. Can I safely route a dome on the end of a 3/4" dia dowel using a 3/8" round over bit, router table, and miter gauge? If not, what method would you use to add a dome to the end of a dowel? Danl
  2. When I was turning all those lighthouse ornaments I was using pieces of dowel rods. When I chucked them up sometimes they didn't run true. I remembered a trick and used it to get the blank the straightest and therefore using less material. Here is a clip from a video I ran across that shows how it is done.
  3. I made a couple of these for my family and got another request for a couple more. I made them out of Cedar fencing boards and painted with some fence stain/preservative. I made each finger and then joined with glue. After the glue set, I made a cut thru the knuckle and put in a spline. I also drilled all the way thru the fingers and glued in a small dowel to hold the fingers together. The childrens sunglasses came from the Dollar store
  4. Well it that time again coming up on the Dec. Woodworkers club meeting I always have made some little thing for the members, we usually have 15-20 members show up. This year I made a doweling jig. Here are the picture of the build. Herb
  5. I ordered a hole drilling jig for my dowel hinges from Rob Cosman a couple of weeks ago and Rob actually called me up and notified me he had shipped it and thanked me for ordering it. It is well machined and in it's own little wood tray. It has 1/2",3/8",5/16",and 1/4" cups, with 2 mandrels. One is for a 1/16" drill bit,and the other for 1/8"drill bit,plus the allen wrench to set the drill bits to depth. You cut the dowel segments to length, and turn on the drill and push it into the cup, turn it around and do the other end. If you leave it like that then cut the pins, 1" long and stick one in each end of the dowel, it will stick out into the next dowel segment. Or you can then after both ends are drilled run a drill through full length of the dowel segment, it will follow perfectly from one hole to the other. https://robcosman.com/products/wood-hinge-drill-kit?variant=51775444307 Herb
  6. this is not the same box but is the way I start building one. I have to print out 10 exact patterns. The tenth one is just solid with no holes for drawers. All the pieces I cut out for the drawers are later glued together except for the front of the drawer and the back of the drawer. I use dowels to line up everything . If I don't use the dowels when clamping two pieces together it could slip just a hair one way or the other and cause lots of extra sanding or cause for the trash can. Each set of holes has to be in a different place than the next side of the pieces. And you can't drill the next side until the first side is marked and drilled and glued. Drawers are somewhere around 5 1/2 to 6" deep. The body being one solidly glued up mass with no cuts joining each drawer keeps it all from warping from season changes.. I use brasing or stainless steel rods for drawer pulls before I start spraying the clear lacquer so they will stay looking good and not tarnish. I also put a wider drawer front on to cover up the possible gaps from sanding and creating a back looking mess. And here also the dowels help to line up the drawer fronts. So far, all the sawing was with the scroll saw so the reason I call my boxes scroll saw jewelry boxes. Now before I glue the front of the drawer on and the back of the drawer on I first mark where the cavity of the drawer will be and cut that area out with a band saw. Then using the dowel holes I first pt in the pieces I can now glue the on and they will have bee lined up before the cavities of the drawers were sawn in... Its not a good idea to be drinking beer when all this is taking place for all these holes I drill has to have a stop set on the drill press or else... There is way more preparation in one of these boxes and a few more weeks involved.. I cut the last 4 boxes I made out outside my motor home while sitting in an rv park in Colo.. I had all the wood glued together for each piece I needed and would only glue on one pattern one at a time as I started to scroll saw each piece out... Gluing a pattern on two or three days before the sawing takes place the pattern will shrink and stretch and some might ruin to not be usable. I always took two or three extra patterns and pieces of prepared wood just in case... I have also found two different printers will make different size patterns even though I use the same pattern in two different printers..Not good when I am having to make multiple patterns and needing some more away from the printer I first used. When cutting out this many of the same thing and needing them as close to each other as I can get them, I find I have to start my scroll saw cutting from the same place and go in the same direction on all the pieces... Going two different directions on two different pieces a person has a tendency to lean or push the wood just enough to make differences and I get get bad line up problems and then add that many more pieces it gets too wild....Yes it ruined my very first wide box because of this... Using the dowel system where at least 3 dowels and most of the time 4 dowels on each side of all the pieces I can get things more manageable when its time to sand it all smooth on the inside and the outside and all the drawers.. All these have to stay in line as to how they were sawn so lots of marking goes on and off. Don't even know if this is understandable or not?? And I can sure see the difference in my sawing from starting in the morning or just before I quit at night. Those lines can sure get wavy. Jess
  7. Here are the latest recipe boxes. I found that when the top is cut off that it becomes shorter and the box becomes lager due to the sloping front. this created a slight problem when installing the metal hinges to line up the front of the box with the top. I compensated by going to the Rob Corson wooden dowel hinge on the cedar boxes I like that setup better and will do it on any future boxes. Also will do a separate tutorial on how it is done. Herb
  8. This is the Rob Corson dowel hinge. With a bullnose or ball router bit on a router table the size of the dowel, route a 1/4 round slot in the back of lid and back of box. Set the fence at the center of the bit diameter and run the top and the box through. The fence can be set in or out to suit the particular box and how wide the lid opens. Take a dowel the same size as the router bit and cut lengths to suit the length of the box, they can be the same length or different lengths. Drill a hole in the center of the dowel the size of the pin. The pin can be metal rod, or wooden dowels. Assemble the dowels on the rod, and adjust to the length of the box,marking the positions of the dowel segments on the box and the top. Put a little glue on every other segment on the box. MAKE SURE THE GLUE HAS ROOM TO SQUEEZE OUT AND NOT SQUEEZE INTO THE NEXT DOWEL SPACE. Carefully lay the assembled dowel hinge onto the glue. Carefully set the top on and lightly clamp down When the glue is dry lift off the top and spin the every other dowel. Then apply a small amount of glue onto the free spinning segments of dowels allowing for squeeze out of the glue. carefully set the top on and clamp lightly. Allow the glue to dry. After the glue has set, gently open the box. The Joy you feel when the box opens is beyond description, the sinking feeling if it doesn't is beyond printing. Only had one that didn't open, and I have done a lot of them. You can also wax the pin,if you so desire. Herb
  9. I recently made a thread cabinet for a sewing friend of mine. The spools were to be placed over dowels to keep the thread spools in order. I needed 168 four inch dowels. Decided I need 20 four foot dowels to come up with the number needed. Couldn't see myself making 168 cuts so I came up with a plan to wrap them all together with some plastic stretch wrap and give that a whirl. Marked off the a dowel every four inches and wrapped the dowels together in between the marks stretching the plastic nice and tight and put them through the table saw. Worked nicely. Got them all cut quickly and smoothly.
  10. The current WOOD Magazine has a good article on "Drill joinery" - screws, dowel joints, pocket screws, Miller Dowels, BeadLock, mortise and tenon joints, etc. Well covered. A couple of other articles on a compact workbench from 2-bys and glue comparisons. Best issue I've seen in a while.
  11. Not sure IF this goes in the Hand Tool section, but Ran into a problem while trying to plane these thinner boards... Dogs are too fat, plane was hitting them. Yes, that is a new dog hole there as well. Used a cordless drill to make the new dog hole.. Now have three hole right down the center line of the vise. Remember that red handled thingy, as I have a job for it, as well. Cut a 7/8" dowel to about 4-5" long, and then cut one end at an angle ~5 degrees Needed the red handled item to drill a pilot hole into the end of the dowel.. See the piece of metal laying there? Piece of an old saw plate. Pilot hole is for a screw to attach the plate to the dowel. had to skinny the dowel down a bit to fit in the dog holes snuggly, but not too snug. Teeth sit up a bit... And they dig into the end of the board a bit. Brass screw to hold the plate to the dog. So, how does it work? Weight of the plane will push the board down, but, plane will not hit the metal stop. I took one of the old WorkMate dogs, and ground about an 1/8" off the top of it. It will reside in the vise. The other one I'll leave alone, for use on the thicker boards and maybe a few glue ups. As for Hand tools used today Front to back...Craftsman( M-F #8) #3C, Millers falls No. 11 and standing up back there is a Stanley #5c. Four pieces got surfaced S4S with these three planes...Note the dog off to the right? This is after it was shaved down. front face is at a bit of an angle, too. I do have more of that dowel.....might make a few "normal" dogs, sometime?
  12. And I got a day more to go. The things I do.Well point is I bloody well didn't want to buy 2" diameter dowels but I needed 'em, For most of the day it was not going as well as I'd hoped. I was getting a horrible surface finish - - all choppy. I was getting inconsistency of about 0.020" from end to end but I dialed that in to about 0.010" error I'm using a router on a lathe. On my lathe I built a very stout rig from 1.125" maple that supports a wide board about the same thickness above the drive and and tail stock center much like the guy has in this video only doing it in the lathe better because it's on bearings and I can adjust the height and location of the board. But my router cutter is not giving me a nice finish it's all choppy. I built two different slow speed rigs one gave me about 60 RPM and the other 20 and neither improved the result. They let me product a finer finish but there were other problems. The slow speed produced a very coarse threaded-like surface unless I moved the router at the speed of a clock's hour hand. I had been in the middle to lower range of lathe speeds before so I decided to crank it to ELEVEN and see what transpired.. Success~!! A pretty good surface that a little 80 grit paper was able to fettle up nice as a baby's bum. I got to make three of these dowels They are going to be split down the middle and put in the planer on a jig just for them then glued back together to produce a shape ( seen from the end) like this: That is the inside part of a tripod leg. My lathe is a little Walker Turner Driver line. The motor that came with was the original. I couldn't stand it because it was weak, so I replaced that with a 1HP 1750 Baldor. Now nothing stops it. It's a sweet little lathe, but I yen for bigger & badder.
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