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  1. I have spent some time this year reworking my shop arrangement. Started with a 60 amp service & this allowed me to move the compressor into an attached shed then hard piped it into the shop. Install a small dust system in the shed and connected my miter saw, belt/spindle sander & a port for my ROS. I passed on things to other people that could use them & got rid of things I haven't or won't need. Consolidated everything to the 3 walls in the shop. I realized during the process that walking around my work bench to get to the other side of the shop just wasn't working anymore, time to downsize & go mobile. The plan is to build a set up to house my table saw and router table in one mobile unit. I have had a good conversation with @Gunny about the do's & don'ts with regards to this set up, "Often suffer from paralysis by analysis in getting a project started" Thanks Gunny. I have the base started with some 4x4 that my Dad had stored, straight and dry. Cut some lap joints, dry fit & ready to screw and glue. Notches in the middle are for the uprights & the cuts were made, after the pics, on the end lap joints for the same.
  2. The club was given a craftsman table saw by the estate of Jim Schaefer. We also received boxes of hand tools and hardware. I like to sell the table saw. (It's taking too much space in the garage) It has a 1.5 HP Baldor motor and a carbide blade. The motor new is now selling for about $400. I am trying to get about $150 for the saw. This money and money that we will receive for the other donated items will be part of the Jim Schaefer Toy Fund. Jim was a long-time member of the woodworking club and this is an older saw. Message me for more information or questions. Located on the west side of Cincinnati.
  3. Worked on this while stuck at home. Two 4 X 8' - 3/4" sheets of plywood glued together. Self adhesive edging around the outside edge, several coats of floor quality polyurethane and on 300 lb. capacity wheels. Exact height for using it as an extension table for my table saw.
  4. Good morning fellow woodworkers, I have a delta tablesaw problem I need to fix and have received no feedback from Delta on the e-mail I sent them regarding my problem so I thought maybe you could help. I purchased a Delta model unisaw with a 10" dia. blade, 3 1/4 HP motor, 52" table, and a Biesemeyer fence system in 2005, model 36-812 with serial number 05A 95089 type 2. An unusual noise is produced sometimes as the blade is spinning down from use. This noise was produced since I purchased the saw, but I could never find the source of the noise, until recently. When cleaning the saw, I noticed score marks and flats that had formed on the shaft used to adjust the blade height of the saw. Upon further investigation, there is direct contact between the end of the belt pulleys used to drive the motor and the blade shaft. Apparently time was required for the flat spots to form on the shaft. Until this occurred, the root cause of the noise could not be identified. This contact only occurs when the blade height is set to 2 inches or above, which explains why the noise was inconsistent and was not made all the time. When the blade is set at a height lower than 2 inches, no noise is produced. I have attached a PDF file which has pictures to showing the exact condition I am referring to. Obviously this is not a safe condition and shouldn't be occurring. Has anyone else had this problem with their delta tablesaw? Anyone know what is causing this contact to occur and if it can be corrected? If so, how? Any advice would be appreciated. saw_hoffman_03-09-2020.pdf
  5. These have been out for awhile and came on sale a while back ,so I had to try them out. First picture is the way I usually run trim through the router table, and then the new way. I like the new ones, they do what they are advertised to do. Herb
  6. I have been using a Woodworker II for quite a few years and it has served me well. Well almost. I returned it to the factory for sharpening and they blew it. I sent it back and they did it again. Each time they left silver solder bubbles on the teeth they replaced. The saw blade has never been the same. Any way my subject is; If you was going to buy a good 10" combination table saw blade, what would it be? Would it be thin or thick cerf? I'd like to get it for a reasonable price too. I paid $120 for the old one and I would like to get a nice one for a lot less. Since sharpening is costly and may not come back sharpened properly I'd rather just buy a new on Your thoughts are appreciated
  7. I finally went and done it. My R4512 finally stopped making good cuts so I got a Grizzly. I am SOOOOOOO impressed with this saw. Came with out a scratch on it. Easy to set up (with help). The hardest part was getting it to my shop. It weighs 300 lbs in the box. Got an appliance dolly and a great big friend to help me move it. Made several cuts with it today. If you are thinking about an up grade, this is a really good deal.
  8. Do you always use your table saw guard? If not, what percentage of the times would you estimate you do you use it? My thoughts on this subject have changed over the years and I am wondering how others operate their saws.
  9. Learn something new every day, a Shopsmith table saw! I have also seen a Shopsmith traditional work bench too that looked pretty robust. Found this saw on the Shopsmith sales group on Facebook. The owner says this one has the under-table Radial Arm Saw capacity. Huh!!!! Who woulda thunk!
  10. Twin Table saw Build Having been asked several times for more info about this older build I got a nod from @John Morris and began a write up for this. It is a crazy idea, I know. But I have method to the madness. This build was originally designed for a single saw and the storage below. The design was done while in Iraq so I had a lot of pages of drawings to sort through to get a working model. My Dad gave me the extra saw and I just adapted the design for the second saw. Why? Well the second saw on the far right has a ¼ dado stack in it. So when I need ¼ which is common I am all set and need only set the height of the blades. This also gives me almost 6 feet of cast iron surface. It did take some work to get the saws bolted together and some more work to square the saws to one another so one fence can be used and be square to both. The main unit is painted with aluminum color, then I used a plastic bag to dab black paint and some silver milk paint to get the textured dimensional look. 3 coats of lacquer (rolled on) finish it off. Entire unit including bottom is painted, not needed just did it. The drawers are colored by use, color aids memory and this thing has a lot of drawers. Having moved everything from where it was this helped get acquainted with the new locations. DC is gravity drop into 4 drawers, two on the front under the saw and two on the back under the motors. The reality was I could not get the storage I wanted AND have the shop DC or a onboard DC set up. So I had to decide what was more important, the storage side won. The entire unit is pre-wired for 220 if needed in the future, current set up is 110. Outlets under the table provide power when needed for sanders and such. Another outlet on the opposite side gives me a second place to plug things in if needed. Unit comes to 44 inches deep and 70 inches wide. Rather large and heavy but the steel frame is up to the task as well as 400 lb casters. 2 years of operation and nothing has collapsed. Doesn't mean I move the monster much, takes 2 people to move and control. The only thing I did not upgrade at the time of build is the extension table for the router. Another project later gave me some insights into the things I want out of the upgrade and as of today that is still in design mode. Sometime this lifetime I will get on it. I have more pictures of more details but leave those for questions or comments. This build could easily be a single saw build so for those wanting to make one, ask away how I did this or that. Total time on project 5 1/2 months. A lot of time and effort but having used this for 2 years it was worth it for the convenience and upgraded performance. Completed Unit May 2018 Drawers and inserts for organizing them Construction details Underside before adding plywood cover. The cover keeps things from getting jammed underneath and blocking it from moving.
  11. I've never seen a saw stop demo in person, but have seen a few videos and I was very impressed. However one question. If you have a saw stop, would you be more inclined NOT to use your guard? I know most guys don't anyway, but using it makes all cutting safer, especially on some of the more risky cuts and kick back risks too. Anyone have an opinion that owns one?
  12. I have an inherited table saw which came down from my grandpop, to my late father, and now to me. My dad always talked about how he wanted to fix up the old saw. For the last few months I have tried to do my pops proud. I have replaced all the bearing, rebuilt the motor, add a new belt, put the PALs alignment system on it, built a crosscut sled, stiffened and lengthened the rip fence, tonight I finished the out-feed table, and put it on a roll around base. The hanging motor threw me for a loop for a little bit. I wanted an out-feed table that was quickly and easily removed and I figured it out, it's even adjustable. See attached. As fun as I had building it with my dad there in spirit I can no longer put off the wife's honey do list. Please let me know what you think.
  13. By setting up a jig to trap the work and run it at some rakish angle to the blade to obtain a large cove? I've seen it and experimented with it. Never produced the actual useable molding. To my mind the sanding would be a bot of a problem taking out the saw blade marks. Have you done it? What was you experience like? How about when mitering the corners together - - did the sanding make it difficult because of differential stock removal from sanding?
  14. I been using remote controlled wheels on magnets to hold wood against the table saw fence. A little softer than the skate wheels. Oh and the magnets are from Grizzly. But now they are about half the price of other wood supply places so probably not worth a flip. In some peoples minds? The stand alone magnet on the left is about the best thing for repeatable lengths of cross cut pieces from the table saw in my little mind.
  15. Here I go AGAIN!! First--about 3 months ago waxed TS ---2 coats--got rust anyway Then last week used paint thinner to remove the 2 coats. Cleaned it off. Applied 2 coats @ 90 degrees to each other to "insure" coverage. Buffed by hand--to lazy to get the buffer out. Got rust anyway again. This time it looks like a forearm print--- I must have leaned on the table. It's a pretty close simile of my right forearm. So what to do??? Strip it down again & re wax? Strip it down and shoot it with gloss lacquer? Just shoot it with something small made of lead?? 380 or 38 don't have a 357 but could borrow one! Environment: garage in South Carolina low country, non a/c'd, hot (90 degree plus), humid 80-90 percent. Wax: 1st time Butchers Bowling Alley paste wax, 2nd time Mothers California gold car wax (no silicone--per the can) Kicker: It's ONLY the TS that is rusting. NONE on my Jet jointer, Hitachi BS, or HF lathe. TS is a Delta. They all live within 5 feet of each other. Is it even possible that some cast iron will rust more than others? Has anyone used anything like lacquer or shellac to coat a TS top? Success rate? I'm open to any & all suggestions Friend in same development hasn't waxed in over 3 years and hasn't had rust Thks smitty
  16. Has any of the websites actually taken table saws from each year and done comparisons on prices and performance based on the manufactures specs. Table saws,blades ,etc.....
  17. The sliding table saw is not a new invention. Notice the wooden top on the saw.
  18. Perusing Craigslist and found this wonderful example of a Shopsmith 10ER here in So Cal. And it's sister sitting beside it, both for $350.00. The ER in front was restored, if only I was ready to go down that road, I'd a snapped it up in a heart beat! Love the way they look.
  19. My shop is a small,15x15 area. No windows. I did clean up, a lot, before the photos. Don’t know what else to say...it’s small.
  20. https://www.cpsc.gov/Recalls/2019/Porter-Cable-Table-Saws-Sold-Exclusively-at-Lowes-Stores-Recalled-Due-to-Fire-Hazard-Made-by-Chang-Type
  21. Going to evaluate a table saw for the theater group tomorrow. What things would you check out before plunking down the money? I plan to power it on, make a few cuts, check runout on the blade (bent arbor), make sure there's no burning smell from the motor, and give it a visual check inside. Probably won't do a formal nickel test, but will check for vibration. We are behind on the next set build and it will be a couple more weeks before we get the lease on the site, materials and the boss back in town.
  22. With all the stuff going on, I finally got my Brand New Saw Stop contractor saw all put together. I had it all in my garage for some time in boxes. I had to put it aside as I needed to get all of my tools and stuff out of the tubs and onto some new shelves and get my wife's stuff in order so she can put the car in the garage. So here are a few pics of the new table saw with the mobile base which works really good.
  23. Hello all, I have an inherited Craftsman 113 from my Grandpa, to my dad and now mine. I have restored and it works pretty great for my weekend adventures. This past week I have finally gotten fed up with stock rip fence and I am wondering what your opinions are for the Delta T3 rip fence as a replacement. Thank you.
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