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Found 12 results

  1. Hi gang I wanted to let you all see the new addition to the addiction, called tools and woodworking. This miter saw is from Harbor Freight. I paid less than $100 for the saw itself, $78 I think it was, which is the lowest price I had ever seen for one. I got the saw, a blade and a extended warranty (one year extension), all for a total of $136. That is about the same as I paid for the grinder which sits to the left. I am waiting on the blade to come in, for some reason they didn't come together (go figure). This is what I have been wanting/needing since I can't fit a table saw in here, so that I can make perfect straight or angled cuts, and make my turnings more complex and fun. I will have to drill a few holes and anchor it before I use it. Next on my list, a router. Gosh I need a bigger place LOL. Thanks for looking and have a great day.
  2. Some basic gluing videos by one of the PopWood survivors https://www.popularwoodworking.com/experts-guide-to-gluing-clamping-wood/?fbclid=IwAR02zssWUnzXJClxG3seSDmLnE8QffcD-ynNyC2a0KlaHm3xmq3kOVr7o5Y
  3. took a couple of pictures of this saw and miter box - still in the previous owner-built box. didn't see any marks on saw blade and the whole thing appears to be in fairly decent condition. have not priced and put on floor yet at the restore. someone will get a deal i suspect.
  4. Picked a Craftsman Miter box, for $5 at a barn sale. A bit on the rusty side, seemed to be a home for wayward spiders Lovely, ain't it? Sitting on my Saw Bench, too. Well, I took the saw itself out of the box/base. Took the tote off. Shined up the three bolts. Medallion just says CRAFTSMAN. Sanded the tote a bit to clean it off. Wire brush in the drill press to get rid of the top layers of rust on the plate. Brought the plate back out to the saw bench, hooked up a palm sander and some 220 grit. sanded down to bare.clean metal. Wasn't worried about any etch. Too rusty, and Craftsman used a silk screened logo. Set the pieces to dry a bit, since I used a pad of Never dull under the sander as a last step. Buffed that out. put the saw back together Yep, it is a biggie. 22" saw. Maybe 11 or more tpi. Looks a little better? Ok, next the base. Old broom to evict about ten resident spiders, and demolish their homes. Had a sprayer cleaner from odd lots, gave the base a good soaking down. Then a wipe down. Couple places had some rust going on, sanded that off. About time to put this saw back together Does look just a little better, don't it now. As for the base Yep, you can read every degree on that scale. Rollers work nice and smooth. Still learning about all the locks this thing has. The levers seem to lock the rollers in the "up" spot. That thumbscrew thingy seems to be some sort of depth stop? No, I haven't found a motor under there, nor a place to plug in a battery. Not too bad, for a $5 saw?
  5. My table saw is a 1947 Delta Uni and is extremely accurate. I had been using a digital Craftsman miter and it did the job well but I wanted to upgrade my miter. I looked at several Incra models as well as the new Kreg KMS7102 and after reading the Kreg reviews, I opted to buy it. The pricing wasn’t hateful at $140 and I was hoping that it would be as accurate and repeatable as promised. The assembly took about 20 minutes and wasn’t rocket science. There are 5 adjustable nylon set screws that you tension the slide in the miter slot to get a nice tight but movable fit. In my mind, the best option on this miter is a flip down stop that really makes short work of accurate and repeatable pieces. I cut 4 3” pieces of oak off the stop and checked the lengths of all four with a digital caliper. There was only .006 difference in the length of all four. I can live with that. The angle of the miter cuts is set with a pin that drops into a pilot hole. That is, you turn the miter to say 45 degrees, slip the pin in the pilot to secure the position and the lock down the miter. I cut a 22.5 and a 45 and checked them with a digital protractor. Both angles were spot on. The only potential negative that I can see is that you must be careful not to lose the brass locking pin. Or buy a spare. My final word on the miter is that it proves to be as good as the reviews and it is made in the USA. Another plus.
  6. Hi, new to this forum. Have been working on restoring hand tools and developing skills for a couple of years. Thought you might be interested in a project from last year. These Eleven Grooved Boxes are made, with the exception of preparing the original stock, entirely with hand tools. A big Stanley miter box, planes 4, 5 1/4, 18, two 45s, and a round side 606. Love them all.
  7. I picked this up a couple weeks ago locally for a song, and after a little cleaning, not much, and some adjustments to the blade guides, this is what I ended up with. So far I'm very happy with the features and how it's put together, plus it doesn't appear to have much wear on it. On the left side of the table is a material length stop, it can be switched over to the right side if needed. I think that it's going to work very well, there is very little to no side play in the blade. The Owners Manual I was able to find on the net and print.
  8. I found out about this MiterSet jig on another forum and had to get one. https://miterset.myshopify.com/pages/demo?AFF=41 Yesterday I tried it out and wish I would have had one years ago. It took me seconds to set the miter gauge and 5 minute max to cut and glue up a 7 sided polygon. There are formulas on the web if you know the radius they will calculate the length of the sides of any regular polygon. I worked in metric, it is easier to set up for say a 3.462" side by setting the stops on the table saw at 8.793 cm. https://www.calculatorsoup.com/calculators/geometry-plane/polygon.php Don't worry about a "T" slot miter gauge as the MiterSet goes in the middle, it worked for my craftsman, Bosch "T" slot, and Incre 2000 too. the slot is .733 for a shopSmith but will fit just about any miter gauge. If the bar is a little worn it can be shimmed to one side with a thin shim, no biggy. Herb
  9. Got some Christmas money to spend-- Help Me
  10. I received my new Incra Miter today. My old miter had no slot adjustment and too much slop. It was also cheaply made. I decided to do the full adjustment cycle on the blade angle, blow and clean the adjustment screws, etc. The Incra was easy to set up and I did some testing and it was very accurate with simple adjustments. The slot adjustments seem OK, but cheaply made. After ripping some angles and checking them, I do like it. I was using a thin kerf Frued blade. When you cut angles or you really want very good close fit, is it better to use a thicker blade? I would see a very smooth area and then an area that showed some slight roughness Probably time for a new blade
  11. Anyone who has been wanting an Incra 1000HD miter gauge but balked at the $200 price tag here's your chance. Rockler has them on sale from 10/1 to 10/28 for $129.99. I bought mine about 5 years ago when they went on sale for under $100 and totally love it. With the adjustable miter bar it fits my 1986 Craftsman saw perfectly.
  12. Well, Uncle Charlie (Horse) has invaded the fingers, so time to blog a bit. Worked on the other stile today. Usual suspects for tools showed up. Decided to do the end mortises a little differently. After a blow out on one the other day, I moved the ends in an inch. Smaller tenon. But NO blow out on the end. Someone asked about those Visegrip finger clamps I use They work just fine holding parts in jigs. Anyway, got to marling things up, I guess it is called Layout? This is one of the end mortises. Some of the lines will carry on around, to help lay out where the mortise comes out at. Yep, through mortises. Chopped the locked rail ones (2) halfway through This is half way through one of the two. I had to do both of these, then flip over. However, it doesn't take all that long to do the halfway point first Not sure IF you can see the time stamp. After the chopping, then some chisel work to complete the joint, after a little bit of handsaw work This happens to be on the end. Same with the lock rail, only there were two to do. Then I could chisel away the waste. Got all of the mortises done. Needed to plough a groove though As the raised panels will need a groove to sit in. Time to mark out where the tenons will go. Clamp a rail in place and mark what needs to be cut away. Now, IF only the idiot behind the saw can follow a line. This job needs a LOT of room to do, though Once a few lines are drawn out, time to try to operate a saw until it looks like this one. The lock rail was a bit tougher to do. Double tenons. Turns out they had a taper to them, and I had to remove the taper. Still have the top rail to do. I do have the center stile all cut and ready for some grooves. Maybe tomorrow? I am bushed, and cramping up. Might be a bit of hard work??? Stay tuned...
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