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Found 20 results

  1. From the album: Tru Welborn

  2. I'm reading a Fine Woodworking book on "Boxes, Carcases, and Drawers." It's just a collection of articles from the early days of FWW. One of them is by Tage Frid, one of the major authors of the day. He writes, "Furniture construction is broken into two main categories: frame and carcase. In frame construction, relatively narrow boards are joined -- usually with a mortise and tenon joint -- as in a chair or table base, or a frame and panel door. In carcase construction boards are joined end to end using dovetails, tongue and groove joints and the like, as in a drawer or hutch." Seems simple enough, huh?
  3. When my daughter Grace was younger my Aunt gave her this puzzle with her name on it. I decided I should put in a frame to preserve it for her. I made a box for the cardboard box the puzzle came as well. I’ll probably hold on to it until she has her first child. Hopefully that’ll be awhile. Don’t think she’ll be much on it now since she’s just turning 16.
  4. Hi All, I'm new here and need some help with an antique armoire I'm repairing. The back is a frame and panel design and I need to create some replacement slats. The tongue ends aren't like any I've ever seen and I can't find the proper router bit for it. Any suggestions on what I can use to cut this? Thanks in advance! Munsey
  5. View File Workbench Magazine September-October 1967 Picture Frames (Part 1) This is a scanned document of the now defunct Workbench Magazine of this era. Permission was granted by the new Workbench Publication for The Patriot Woodworker community to copy and use the old Workbench Magazine at our pleasure, and for free distribution and re-use. Submitter John Morris Submitted 07/06/2021 Category Arts and Crafts  
  6. Version 1.0.0

    32 downloads

    This is a scanned document of the now defunct Workbench Magazine of this era. Permission was granted by the new Workbench Publication for The Patriot Woodworker community to copy and use the old Workbench Magazine at our pleasure, and for free distribution and re-use.
  7. Delivered the finished frame ordered by a friend of Mimi's. Their design and choice of wood. I used threaded inserts and bolts to attach the frame to the base in case the glass ever needed repaired Those are the only metal fasteners used in the build. All four edges of the glass set in dados. I modified the original design from 3/4" thick base material to 3/8" thick material. The holder is designed to set on a window sill. To reinforce the top 45° miters, I used a cherry spline. It sort of matches the staff color in the design. I'm told this symbol is called a Caduceus. The Sketchup drawing for the customer- The finished piece-
  8. Just a small amount of woodworking. Maire has had a print laying around for years waiting for me to frame it. So, I finally did. Using some walnut that was in my scrap bin I made a small frame, ordered the mat on-line, and got some glass cut at Lowes (a story told in another post). Anyway, she was happy though I though maybe I should have used a lighter color wood. The pics show the profile I cut. One of the things I like about frames is using the router table, probably my favorite tool to use in the shop. The second shows the frame in the web clamp, something that hasn't been sued in quite a while...it's also been a while since I've made any frames. Then the completed print. BTW, I used a place called Matboard and more for the mat, and they really do a nice job. I usually rail at the cost of shipping ($10 in this case) and here they really earn their keep. The packaging job they did was truly great and done to protect the fragile matboard from being damaged. If you need one, I highly recommend them.
  9. Now that the drum runs true and the table lift works, it was time to start building the frame. My intention was to use mortise and tenon joinery but my choice of material was 2 x 6 for the top and bottom of the sides. This was larger than my mortiser could handle. I know, I could have chopped them out by hand. I opted for half lap joints. The overall width of the frame is 23” and the table height is about 31”. The length, at the bottom, is about 36”. The table is 16” x 24”. The frame is made of pine 2 x 4 and 2 x 6. All the joints are glued and screwed. The table is a piece of ¾” Melamine with ¾” plywood support and a 1” oak piece for the pivot hinge. These photos are from the dry fit. I’m gonna need to get some more clamps! (View 1,2,3,4) To increase the structural integrity, I added two 2 x 4 cross members at the bottom of the front and back of the frame. You will be able to see them in a later section.
  10. As mentioned before, the tips and tricks we mention here are personal choices and not gospel. We all have our particular ways of doing things that work for us. There are NO absolutes in scrolling. Sorry to have taken so long in getting the next Tips and Tricks our, folks. Life got in the way. Anyway, there has been some interest in how to make self-framing projects. This type of project is the art of using one piece of wood for both the picture AND the frame. For the demo, I have chosen a Sheila Landry design for the project. Without going into all the basics of choosing the wood, sanding, prep work, affixing the pattern, assume we have already done it. (Because this is a purchased pattern, I will not include all of the pattern here.) What I want you to notice is the "X" marked on the pattern and marked "Drill Entry Hole Here" Why there, you ask???? That is the point that we will start making our frame. The figure in the middle is going to be recessed by 1/4 to 3/8" around this line. Outside of this line will be the frame. When we make self-framing projects, we don't want any light to shine through our framing cut AND we want to make sure that we have a good glue area. To accomplish this task, we will need to use a "bevel" technique. That simply means that we change the angle of the blade to the wood. With most of the saws, you will tilt the table to change the angle of the cut. With the Excalibur saw, you will change the angle of the cutting head. Depending on the size of the blade you use, you will change the angle from 2 to 5 degrees. I know that we are talking about very small changes - - - - soooooooooooooooooooooo - - - - - the image below is that of a protractor. Feel free to copy this image or download your own by searching "protractor image" in your favorite search engine. When printing this image you change its size to suit. After printing, I glued mine onto scrap, and cut the outside. Be certain that the bottom of the image is flush with the bottom of your scrap. The next step that I personally recommend is to use a piece of scrap and cut some test areas as shown below. I label each area with the amount of angle on the blade. Also notice that I labeled the size of the blade. (OK, I mislabeled the #3 blade as #4). This seems to help me choose the amount of angle and size of blade by actually showing me how far the cut piece will move. The next step will be to drill the entry hole. Choose the smallest drill bit that you can for this entry hole as it will probably be seen (more on this later). Now - there are some differences of opinion in this step. some say that you can drill the hole at 90 degrees - in other words straight down - other say that you must drill the hold on your chosen angle. Try it both ways and see which way works best for you. Ready for the next step? Notice that nothing has been said yet about any cutting on the pattern itself. We will do that in a little while. OK - tilt your saw to the chosen angle of cut. At this point, it doesn't really make any difference which direction (if you saw will tilt both ways). Thread the blade through the hole and tighten the tension. I have a habit of a little over-tightening at this point because I don't want the blade to wander. NOW to decide which direction to cut. You are going to want the outside (frame) to fall out the bottom of the piece. This will eventually make the center piece depressed into the frame and the frame proud. When you are satisfied you are cutting in the right direction, do so. Slow and steady will make a great even cut. When you are finished, test fit the center by inserting it into the frame from the top. It should be something like the picture below. If all looks good, go ahead and glue the pieces together. Allow at least 8 hours to dry. After you are sure the pieces are cured, it's time for the next step. Using a carrier board, it is time to plane the back side. This step is not mandatory but I like to use it - makes for a more finished piece on the back side. (Shown in the picture below) Another thing that I will do at this time, because I have some nice firm wood to work with, is to route a 1/4" round-over around the inside of the frame. You can almost see that in the picture below OK - now it's time to cut out everything starting with the inside and working out to the frame. Below is what I ended up with. Notice that I also put a 1/4" round-over around the entire frame. Whatcha think, folks - ready to try "Self-Framing" projects..? ? ? ? ? ? Let's have some discussion here. Give it a try and post your results. And thanks for your participation.
  11. In 2018 our church choir made a pilgrimage to Italy and actually had to opportunity to sing at a Papal Mass (means attended by the Pope). We also sang at several other basilicas and even held a concert for the people of Rome. It was a most rewarding experience. While there, we had several professional pictures taken, but they were kind of a weird size and my wife and I could not find an appropriate frame to display these pictures - so I decided to make one myself out of a slab of Buckeye I had, incorporating my chip-carving. Here is the start - pretty much cut to size, just playing with what I will carve into the face of the frame:
  12. Something a bit different....as a way to use up a pile of scraps? One such pile. Have already sliced a couple of these scraps. I don't think the old 1/2" bandsaw blade will be of much use... Been a bit too beat up, lately.....I do have a 1/4" blade in the saw, right now.. Not really a new one, but it is at least...sharp. Maple tends to turn a bit brown. Cuts were a tad wavy. Motor at first didn't want to work this hard....and tried to shut down....until I pointed out to it, that the motor it replaced, was STILL in the shop...and YOU CAN BE REPLACED......motor started right up....imagine that Thought I could just jack plane these smooth....plane was a bit too big, for this job... The Stanley No. 3c that I had just rehabbed, happened to be sitting out, where I could grab it...seemed to do a decent enough job.. I even used it to joint a few edges... Got one looking decent enough as for width...needed trimmed on the ends for square, though.. Works for me. Got a few all the same width, mainly by bandsawing to width. was able to gang a bunch up.. Used the #3c again. to make them all the same width. Had two pieces, came from the same board.. Figured I could book-match these two into a panel for a lid....they needed a bit of work, one end being wider than the other end...bandsaw to correct that, plane to do the edges straight...try to make the grain as close as i could.. May need to add a bit, to get to the width I need. Set the thin stuff aside, for now.. These will be sawn down into 1" to1-1/2" wide strips....to make the frames to house those thin panels..had to set up a jig on the saw... Set for 1" width, for now....may go with the 1-1/2" instead....more to work with. Made a big mess today... May be about time to bring the trashcan back down to the shop? May need to do some glue-ups, and make some frames. Stay tuned...will see IF I can get this done, before next Tuesday morning...
  13. I ran across these pictures of a room divider screen frame I made for a friend of the family awhile back. She wanted to cover with fabric and have the top and bottom rails removable to slide into the loop in the fabric top and bottom. So I used a dovetail joint on the ends of the rails. I thought this might be of interest to someone. Herb
  14. From the album: DerBengel's Scrapbook

    This is my first real attempt at painting (back in 1986). It's a 20" x 24" in acrylic. This is also my first attempt at mitering. It's a 1" x 2" MDF that I painted black.

    © © Cindy Trine

  15. GONNA BUILD A DOVETAIL ''FRAME'' FOR 24 INCH. YEAW IT'L BE LOT OF CAREFULNESS, BUT HEY WHAT ELSE HAVE WE GOT. INTO 3 WK OF REHAB. STILL GOT AWAYS TO GO, BUT AN OLDMAN CAN DREAM?
  16. From the album: Oleglenn

  17. Has finally came back "on-line".....scary thought... Working out some details to build a case to hold the boxes I have been a-building....and maybe a drawer or two. maybe like a chest-of-drawers? Need to make the sides and top. Might be whatever wood comes into the shop during the build. Might see quite a bit of work done with the Stanley 45, too. Might need to resaw a few things down, too. Start time is after the 5th jan. Doc visit. Will post updates of the build, and the knee. Stay tuned.
  18. Click on the image below to be taken to Aschi's free craft plans. You can also visit their Facebook page at Aschi's Workshop. And if your a Facebooky, don't forget to like their page!
  19. Well, there is all the parts Frame & Panel parts. Just finished milling the last leg parts.Had some nasty stuff to cut away, though Just to make two back leg blanks for the end panels. Cleaned up some rails Set up a three screw jig to remove the "cope" from the tenon. Used a #3 handplane to "Chute" away the lip, and mill the shoulder back to square. Third screw is behind this rail. Most of the old parts had a two layer "veneer" , some even had a thick paper as the outer layer. Pried most of it off, to get down to the "real wood" underneath the glue. Milled a few last grooves, and will start to mill tenons tomorrow, I hope. Even tried a test fit Ok, so I still have some work to do on this.... Raised panels have been sitting around, awaiting to be installed in the frames. Trying to build this chest with just the parts scrounged from the old bed frame. Might even have enough left over, to glue up a fancy lid... Stay tuned...
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