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Spalted maple.
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So I'm working on a project that has many firsts for me. First time creating mortise and tenon joints, first time using my mortise attachment for my drill press, first time using my table saw tenon jig. Creating the mortises went fairly well once I got the attachment set up properly. The tenon jig, not so much. I think I need to do finite adjustments with my gauge to make sure it's perfectly square to the miter slot. I used the table saw to cut part of the tenons and the band saw for the rest. My tenons ended up as trapezoid shapes instead of rectangles! See pictures below. This particular project doesn't require perfection, hence why I'm starting with it, but I'd like to learn how to do better for the next time around. Can anyone offer suggestions on what I did wrong and how to correct it for next time? Thanks!
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From the album: Thar she blows
I had just made a thin rip table saw jig and I thought making a windmill would be a good way to test the jig. And the jig worked great. I cut most of the wood out of scrap 2x4s. The blades I made out of the bottom of a $1 store 10" pie pan. I didn't like the way the vane turned out so one day soon I will redo it. Many mornings I sit in the chair in the garage just to the right of the windmill in the picture and drink my morning coffee. It is kind of relaxing to sit in that chair and watch the windmill start and stop with each little breeze.- 5 comments
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From the album: Knob Making Jig
By sliding the bar under the knob I can cut a knob square blank from 1.5' to 3". The hole saw that cuts the corners off the blank is 3/4". I use a 1/4" insert nut in the center of the knob. -
From the album: Thin Rip Ideas
One type of thin rip jig -
A couple of weeks ago I was asked how I cut the angles on my flag cases. Well, today I cut 3 out for my online store so I grabbed a few pictures. Keep in mind that I”m a big advocate of using a digital protractor so that my 45 degree angles at the top are truly 45 degrees and my 22 1/2 degree cuts on the lower corners are truly 22 1/2 degrees. I cut these angles with a tenoning jig. The last picture shows how I join the angled corners. Filament tape is strong enough to let me pull the joint together.
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Perusing videos about the use of Radial Arm Saw's, I found this wonderful video on cutting miters on the RAS, crown molding. The thought process involved in cutting the miters for crown is highly simplified using the Flying Wing Jig. Hope you enjoy the video as much as I did. Also, this gent in this video, is the son of Mr Sawdust! Pretty cool. Mr. Sawdust MRSAWDUST.COM Home of Master The Radial Arm Saw — by Mr. Sawdust, Wallace Kunkel — Master Furniture-Maker, Teacher & Founder of the Mr. Sawdust...
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I found it easier to glue if I oriented the blank with the diagonal cut facing up. I use an old restaurant cutting board as a gluing work surface and pieces of the cutting board as culls and pads. In this picture, you can see the three strips to be glued into place. They measure 2” x 10 3/4” x 1/8”. Test fit the pieces first to make sure they will seat into the slot. (I now have a thick piece of Corian countertop for the gluing surface) On my first attempt, I didn’t use enough clamps- using more clamps and culls assured that all of the joints were tight. I probably overdid it with the amount of glue. A liberal coat over all mating surfaces. Clamped up After the glue has dried and the clamps removed, the blank is ready for trimming. I used to use a special table saw jig for this but found it was easier and quicker to trim off the excess insert length on the bandsaw just free handing it. Trim both ends and the side. At this point it is a good idea to “sweeten up” the layout lines, if the trimming operation removed them. Now it is just a matter of re-mounting the blank on the diagonal cutting jig and repeating the operations for making the second diagonal slot. The diagonal slots, glue ups and trimming operations are the same for each of the remaining three sides. On the lathe, ready to be turned. The final dimensions on this rolling pin were: 20” long; diameter at the center: 1 9/16”; diameter at the ends : 1 1/4”. I have tried two types of tapers. One started at the center and continued to the ends. The other starts at the ends of the ellipses and continues to the ends. Personal preferences will determine the tapers. After the blank is turned round, the layout lines for the taper can be drawn on the blank. To aid in getting it symmetrical, I started with an arc template. My turning skills leave a lot to be desired and there was too much variation from one pin to the next in diameter and symmetry. I considered purchasing a lathe duplicator but finances dictated this calls for another jig! Most of the hardware is standard off the shelf stuff- ¼” x 20 threaded stock, wing nuts, T-nuts, deck screws. The only thing “special” was the ¼” tool steel- which I purchased from a local machinist for 25 cents and then ground a rounded tip. This shape worked better than a point because it left the wood with a smoother surface. The base of the jig mounts onto the lathe bed. The back edge of the jig has the “reverse” arc of the rolling pin. The cutting portion of the jig sits on the MDF bottom and the bolt follows the arc to create the shape. The long bolt can be adjusted to position the cutter depth.
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I posted a couple weeks ago about a shop contacting me to make drop spindles which are used in spinning wool. There are two basic components, the "whorl" which is pretty easy and quick to do. The shaft, which is a little problematic. The shaft needs to be about 12" long and around 5/16" diameter. Kind of difficult and tedious to turn and with a small margin I need to turn them as quickly as possible. Looking for options I bought a dowel jig that uses a drill motor to create a dowel. It works but I got more tearout than I liked, especially on woods like oak or ash. I then did some searching and watched some videos about using a table saw to make dowels. You read that right, you can make a dowel or spindle using your table saw. It works, and it works pretty darn good. Pretty nice finish which will require just a little sanding and it's pretty consistent as far as diameter Produce_5.mp4
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Just 2 weeks left is our fundraising drive. Please consider donating and taking a chance on wining one of our sponsors' awesome prizes! Our Patriot Turners- @Steve Krumanaker continues to supply his unique turnings for a local "Bee" business- Steve's post has more images of some of the custom things he makes! @RustyFN scored some Bradford pear and showed us his blank preparation. Looks like some awesome bowls in his future Check out Rust's post- @Gerald has been busy replenishing his craft show stock- Check out his post to see what these are! @PostalTom updated us on the chess set he made. Tom included a closeup of the turned chess pieces, in his post Tom also posted some kitchen utensil items in our "What's On Your Workbench" forum- Our "What's On Your Lathe" continues to showcase our turners' projects! @nevinc, @forty_caliber and @Gerald all shared images of what's happening What’s Coming Up- Click on the images for links- For The Newbies- A variety of topics from around the web- From Tim Yoder, a couple of short video tips- From Mike Waldt, help for using my old nemesis- the Skew! This is a live demo so it is really long- Have you ever tried to cut a round blank on the bandsaw? Not a bowl blank, but rather an end off of a cylinder shape. If not secured properly, the blade can grab the piece and even break the blade. Mike Peace cautions about this and shares a video on making it safer. Expand Your Horizons- Craft Supplies USA created a video demonstrating the use of the Easy Core One Way Coring System. This is a rather long video but does demonstrate using the system. In the description, the presentation is broken down so the viewer can select sections to view. We've noticed several discussions about finishing, on other Patriot forums, and the subject of shellac pops up frequently. This link, from Kent Weakley, is to an article on making and using shellac as a bowl finish. https://turnawoodbowl.com/make-shellac-wood-bowl-finish/ I think everyone here knows my love of carbide turning tools. @smitty10101 posted about using Easy Wood Tools ( @Jordan Martindale ) to turn a bowl. The video is from Craft Supplies USA New Turning Items- Ron Brown has been creating and posting videos, on his YouTube channel, discussing his hollowing stabilizer. You can check them out at- https://www.youtube.com/@Ronbrownsbest/videos With SWAT happening this weekend, there will probably be some new products shown. Be sure to check out the Vendor showcase listed above for live feeds of some of the products. Everything Else- From Ron Brown's Newsletter, something I think we all have struggled with from time to time- What Is It Worth? I’ve had lots of questions about pricing one or two special pieces. For the vast majority of woodturners, it is a hobby, they never intend to sell anything they make. Some folks are interested in turning as a side gig but have no idea how to price their work. As someone who has experience in just about every conceivable selling venue, I would like to pass along what I have learned. Any object is only worth what someone is willing to pay for it. When I’m considering how to price anything I’ve made or plan on making, there is a formula I use: Cost of material + Time @ desired labor rate = Hard Cost Hard Cost X 4 = Suggested Retail Selling Price Hard Cost X 2 = Wholesale Selling Price Average Market Price For Similar Items; Am I Close? This is only a starting point. Determine the “Market Price” for similar items depending on the selling venue, are you in the ballpark? The Market Price in an Arts & Crafts Gallery is very different from the Market Price at a street craft fair and those prices are different on Etsy, eBay, your own website, or Amazon. Don’t forget about the associated cost for each venue. The last measure is a selling price that I feel good about. In other words, it is a Win-Win; the customer is happy at that price and I was happy to make it for them. An absolute fact of life is that everybody loves a bargain. (See the scripture below). Your “Retail Price” should be some amount above the price you hope to sell it for. Every retail store on the planet understands this and so should you. If you are selling one-on-one, you can comfortably offer a deal if they take it now and still earn what you needed in the first place. If you are selling online, this is the perfect scenario for a sale with either free shipping or a percentage discount. You must also consider why you want to sell at least some of your work. Perhaps you want to fund additional tool purchases. In that case, forget the time you put in and consider the amount of profit dollars such a sale will contribute to your “new widget” fund. If the income is important as a supplement to other household income, it needs to be worth your time. If you are thinking of this as a main income stream, you need to maximize the return on your capital and your time and this will require counsel and careful consideration. Try to pick items that are fast, easy, and cheap to make that you can sell tons of i.e. pens, bottle stoppers, pepper mills, spinning tops, utility bowls, cutting boards, kitchen utensils, etc. The bottom line is complicated depending on your specific situation. Only you can make that determination. I recommend setting your initial asking price higher than you think you should. Often someone else thinks your widget is worth more than you do. You can always lower the asking price, but it is difficult to raise it. As I said before, something is only worth what someone else is willing to pay for it. Here is a true quick story. I used to sell fancy laser-cut Christmas ornament kits and made finished samples for display at The Woodworking Shows. I got many inquiries from folks wanting to buy the finished ornaments that I really didn’t want to sell. I finally put a price of $150 on each one figuring that would stop all of the questions because nobody would pay that much for a Christmas Ornament. The first year we sold 12! Don’t sell yourself short Safe turning
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I know we all know how to make these, I ran across this in my collection of Workbench Magazines and just thought it useful. And as usual, the disclosure:
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Pennsylvania Farm Show week. It's the largest indoor agricultural event in the United States: sixteen acres of displays and exhibits all under one roof. The Pennsylvania Farm Show is a week-long celebration of the state's leading industry - agriculture. Big doings around these parts. Our Patriot Turners- @Masonsailor posted another of his beautiful kitchen turnings. This ice cream scoop is absolutely lovely- Paul tells us more about the turning and has added a few more images in his post- @jthornton added some more content to his post on the segmented cutting jig- After making sure it was accurate, he started working on the segments for his "popcorn bowls" @HandyDanhad some read oak and turned it in to a beautiful little bowl- Dan thinks this species may not be the best for holding liquids- Dan had earlier turned some tiny little bowls after watching one of the videos we posted last week- Check out this link to what Dan posted- What’s Coming Up- Bunch of stuff coming up. Click on the images for links to more information and registration- For The Newbies- Richard Raffan proves you don't need a log to turn nice bowls. Expand Your Horizons- How'd he do that?? Check out this video!! New Turning Items- This has jig has been around for a while but the video from Niles Stoppers is relatively recent Everything Else- Looks like Rick Turns took the week off. I greatly appreciate you all posting your work, it make putting this together a lot easier- especially as I have double duty here while Mimi recuperates. Safe turning
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Our Ward 57 project was a complete success. Congrats to all of the raffle winners. Sure hope we get to see some pictures of the kids opening their presents! Writing this on Tuesday as Mimi is scheduled to have here right knee replace tomorrow. She had the left one done about a year ago. I'll be on nurse, cook, laundry, dog sitting and general all around house husband for then next couple of weeks. Our Patriot Turners- @jthornton posted a couple of things this past week. First is his segment jig- As often happens, the best laid plans of mice and men... anyway, he discovered the accuracy wasn't spot on. He tells us more in his post- JT went on to show us what he does with the segments he makes. This is an awesome bowl! Check out his post for more images and a little about the build- What’s Coming Up- Registration is at https://streamyard.com/watch/KGRprAZsAGQU More information here- https://woodturner.org/Woodturner/Virtual-Events/Emma_Cook_Resin_Inlay_Platter.aspx For The Newbies- Reverse sanding can be useful but it comes with some possible problems. Mike peace explains in this video- Do you use a scraper when turning? Richard Raffan shows us how to hone it for the best cuts- Expand Your Horizons- I get a lot of turning notification form various social media accounts. One from Sam Angelo popped up covering his home made finish. I was curious about food contact. Sent him a message but haven't heard back. Here's his video- It worried me about the turpentine. Did a little more digging and found something I didn't expect in a post by Kent Weakley. About have way through the article there is information comparing Linseed Oil to Boiled Linseed Oil. I'll let you decide about what/when you use the ingredients- https://turnawoodbowl.com/my-favorite-food-safe-wood-finish-waterproof-almost/ Another social media article popped up about the difficulty between turning large bowls vs. small bowls. Most of the respondents felt small bowls were more difficult. No one told Richard Raffan that! A beautiful maple burl bowl from Tim Yoder- New Turning Items- Couldn't find anything new but I did notice that Niles Bottle Stoppers have added some Yorkshire Grit products. Our generous sponsor Easy Wood Tools ( @Jordan Martindale ) is now the US source for this great sanding finish! Everything Else- Rick Turns list of YouTube woodturning videos from last week- Got to play at the lathe the other day. Everyone was making those Gnomes/Gonks. I got this idea that they should be more than just a shelf setter. Turned this one from maple and walnut. The "fur" is from Hobby Lobby. I found some of the original Niles Bottle stoppers hidden in a box. Wine bottle stopper Safe turning
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I built what I thought was the ultimate segment jig only to figure out it was not accurate enough to make perfect joints. So after some deep thought sitting with the hens and sipping on a nice German beer it hit me square in the head what the issue is. The angle can be slightly off if you cut the segments correctly then the complementary angles cancel each other out. I modified my segment jig by removing the first angle guide and making the second on big enough for some Destaco clamps. First I trim one to the angle Then I use a scale to set the length to my stop jig The stop jig overlaps the base so I put a bit of scrap under to lift the scale up After setting the fence to hold the stop jig in the same place each time I flip the part and set the cut and mark the right edge with an X Ready to cut a segment When you assemble the segments the X goes to a blank and the angles are perfect, only a rubber band is holding the segments in place. For glue up I use a hose clamp. I'll add my segment calculator tomorrow in three flavors, excel, open office and a debian install deb. JT
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May favorite magazine/book of which I am a subscriber, has produced yet another wonderful class, this class "Skills Over Jigs" leads the student to cut the umbilical cord with hand tool jigs, sharpening jigs, dovetail jigs, etc. I have purchased a few of the M&T video classes on DVD, and loved them, this class is on video and the price is right. Link to the class page is: Skills Over Jigs If you do purchase the class please report back to us how it went! From my previous experience with their other courses, I don't think you'll be disappointed Here is the trailer that just dropped.
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Honey-do Project...involved repainting all the doors and drawers in the Kitchen....Uppers were easy..take them down, paint them up....the handles needed a second hole drilled for the handle bolts...Easy to do on the table, once the paint was dry.... 9 doors for the uppers....Drawers? removed the 8 handles, paint the very FULL drawers in place, re-install the handles... It was when we got to the lower doors...this old bod is NOT getting down on the floor to remove the screws from the bottom hinges, would have had to call 911 to get me up off the floor... Again, I still need to add the second, lower bolt for the handles...after I had removed the handles, and painted the doors in place...make a cheap little jig to drill that second hole... just a scrap of Maple...lay out two holes that matched the locations of the handle's bolts...mark one hole as T..for top...insert a bolt through that hole... Bolt sticks out enough to be inserted into the existing hole on a door....Then clamp the jig in place.. MK II, MOD 4 (Bifocals) to sight down the side of the door, and the jig, when bot look parallel to each other.. Drill the hole for the bottom bolt...remove the jig, install the handle..move on to the next door....easy, right..lower back said NO, after the fifth door out of 10..will do the last 5 handles tomorrow...
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Wood Magazine came today and I was browsing the article on how to build a rocking chair. All the joints are held with loose tenons and seeing the picture, I'm thinking Domino. But no, they have a clever little shop-made jig to cut these. I have used similar things for other purposes, and until now, it never occurred to me. Note that the stock is 1.25" thick, they are using a 3/4" opening on the jig, 1/4" bit and 1/2" bushing, that results in a 1/2" tenon. Probably too much for 3/4" stock, but I think I can adjust it down. Also in the next issue, they promise 5 jigs to do loose tenons. I may retire my Bead-Lock.
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Seems I was a bit too confidant in using the above jig that I got for 2 reasons: 1) I really wanted a wide capacity dovetail jig and Leigh had this 24" one with great reviews 2) I had promised to make my oldest granddaughter this cherry blanket chest I had plans for that i really like. Well I have the jig and the wood is all milled up but my test dovetails on the same thickness boards aren't quite there yet. Due to a number of circumstances I shelved this project till I had more time to practice and get the joints right but that hasn't happened in the past year. I've watched the videos and re-read the manual but the results aren't getting that much better. I'm more than sure this jig is capable of repeatable well fitting dovetails but I haven't discovered the touch yet. Any suggestions and/or videos that aren't Leigh's (I've watched all of those several times) that might give me the ah-ha moment or suggested tips? I really need to get this on track again.....
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I was wanting a shop built tenoning jig and because I have a Delta Unifence rip fence on my table saw, I had to build a fence and a shoe. The fence is 18” long and the shoe is 12” long. When building the shoe, I used a paper shim (0.004”) to allow the shoe to slide freely along the jig fence. The jig fence references off the top of the Unifence and the shoe references off the jig's top surface. The mating sliding surfaces are cherry hardwood. I painted the shoe red to help remind me to be safe. I am getting reliable results. I used a 3/8” dia. router bit to make my mortises and a flat ground TS blade to cut the tenons. Through trial-n-error, a 0.508 shim results in a perfect mortise/tenon fit. The advantages of using this TS-tenoning jig over using the stack dado blade method are this jig will allow me to have one reference surface throughout the build, I do not have to have all the mating materials milled at the same time to allow having at least one flush mating surface, and results in producing smooth consistent tenon surfaces. I believe I will be able to use the jig fence with other shop-made accessories if the need arises. Thanks for looking. Danl
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From the album: Gun Case
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A slow week here in our turner's forum. Our Patriot Turners- What’s Coming Up- Click on the following images for links to more information- From the AAW- For The Newbies- Sanding our turnings is time consuming. Changing disks on the Velcro sanding pads just adds to the delay. I know @Gerald has a sanding disk for each grit and that can save some time. It also saves some wear and tear on the Velcro. Here's a video showing shop made sanding disk holders- Wooden scoops are always a nice addition to the kitchen. Here Richard Raffan shows us how he does them- Check out his YouTube channel for more turning videos- https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC2tEGrCP1GiVwfaT4K9bcNw Tracey Malady demonstrates the versatility of the Easy Wood Tools, @Jim from Easy Wood Tools, carbide cutters as she turns finials- Expand Your Horizons- A neat tip from Lyle Jamieson on how to keep lighter colored sapwood from darkening- Alan Stratton demonstrates some shop made jigs for creating turnings with eccentric patterns- Our local PBS station is always a little behind the rest of the country, especially when it comes to woodworking shows. This past Saturday, Jimmy Clewes was featured turning his signature platter. The episode is available for purchase at- https://www.woodsmithshop.com/episodes/season15/1511/ New Turning Items- With the Virtual AAW Symposium taking place, I am hoping there will be some new turning tools/equipment introduced. Guess we will have to wait and see. Everything Else- Rick Turns list of YouTube woodturning videos from last week- In preparation for each week's "Wednesday's...", I spend some time searching for informative videos. Some come from YouTube. I noticed recently that the YouTube users rating system seemed different. The "Thumbs Up" choice is listing the number of positive responses. The "Thumbs Down" choice doesn't show any negative votes. Thinking this was a little odd, I went searching for the reason. If you are interested in understanding the change- https://youtu.be/f1Izh3-c88Y Could this be a carryover from the "everybody gets a trophy" generation?? Safe turning and stay well
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This is the one I got from Wood Magazine and it includes the half-blind and accessory thru dovetail templates. Executive Summary: I think there are better units out there. Woodcraft has several other options. It is nice because there is an accessory template to do through dovetails. It is also sturdy and heavy built. I have two router jigs -- an old Porter-Cable one that works fine but only does half-blind dovetails and is not flexible on width of pieces. Another one that is not made any more and is way more adaptable, does through and half-blind dovetails but is extremely complex. I read the manual, went to an all day class with handouts, then spent two days studying, making notes and diagrams, and trying things. When I pull it out, it takes me an hour or two to get started with it. And to do most anything you have mid-stream adjustments and or template changes to make (permitting the opportunity to mess up). I was hoping this one would be simpler to use. I understand that with any jig, you need to fine tune the depth of the dovetailing bit to fit the pins you cut. The manual is kind of sketchy. The parts listed for the bits and templates are not exactly what was sent. It appears they changed/upgraded without changing the manual whose revision date is the same month as manufacture (I have discovered this is not uncommon from Chinese manufacturers). And the one size bushing that had a label for 7/16 on it was the wrong size 1/2". But the slots appear to be 1/2", so not sure until I do a test run. Woodcraft sent a replacement to me same day and arrived a day later. But it appears the supplied bits will work. But not listed anywhere the thru dovetails are limited to 1/2" thick wood, maybe at least on the tail pieces? I have a bigger bit but it won't work because it's a 1/2" shank and does not fit a 1/2" bushing. The settings for the template are not fixed and I was told that I'd need to fiddle with things a bit to accommodate different thicknesses of wood. The half-blind should be good once set up. But the through dovetail template needs flipped between tails and pin cutting, so you'll need to run a trial and adjustment every time. I think if I was going to buy one, I'd just go for the Leigh Through Dovetail Jig https://www.woodcraft.com/products/td330-through-dovetail-jig-leigh
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