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Pennsylvania Farm Show week. It's the largest indoor agricultural event in the United States: sixteen acres of displays and exhibits all under one roof. The Pennsylvania Farm Show is a week-long celebration of the state's leading industry - agriculture. Big doings around these parts. Our Patriot Turners- @Masonsailor posted another of his beautiful kitchen turnings. This ice cream scoop is absolutely lovely- Paul tells us more about the turning and has added a few more images in his post- @jthornton added some more content to his post on the segmented cutting jig- After making sure it was accurate, he started working on the segments for his "popcorn bowls" @HandyDanhad some read oak and turned it in to a beautiful little bowl- Dan thinks this species may not be the best for holding liquids- Dan had earlier turned some tiny little bowls after watching one of the videos we posted last week- Check out this link to what Dan posted- What’s Coming Up- Bunch of stuff coming up. Click on the images for links to more information and registration- For The Newbies- Richard Raffan proves you don't need a log to turn nice bowls. Expand Your Horizons- How'd he do that?? Check out this video!! New Turning Items- This has jig has been around for a while but the video from Niles Stoppers is relatively recent Everything Else- Looks like Rick Turns took the week off. I greatly appreciate you all posting your work, it make putting this together a lot easier- especially as I have double duty here while Mimi recuperates. Safe turning
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Our Ward 57 project was a complete success. Congrats to all of the raffle winners. Sure hope we get to see some pictures of the kids opening their presents! Writing this on Tuesday as Mimi is scheduled to have here right knee replace tomorrow. She had the left one done about a year ago. I'll be on nurse, cook, laundry, dog sitting and general all around house husband for then next couple of weeks. Our Patriot Turners- @jthornton posted a couple of things this past week. First is his segment jig- As often happens, the best laid plans of mice and men... anyway, he discovered the accuracy wasn't spot on. He tells us more in his post- JT went on to show us what he does with the segments he makes. This is an awesome bowl! Check out his post for more images and a little about the build- What’s Coming Up- Registration is at https://streamyard.com/watch/KGRprAZsAGQU More information here- https://woodturner.org/Woodturner/Virtual-Events/Emma_Cook_Resin_Inlay_Platter.aspx For The Newbies- Reverse sanding can be useful but it comes with some possible problems. Mike peace explains in this video- Do you use a scraper when turning? Richard Raffan shows us how to hone it for the best cuts- Expand Your Horizons- I get a lot of turning notification form various social media accounts. One from Sam Angelo popped up covering his home made finish. I was curious about food contact. Sent him a message but haven't heard back. Here's his video- It worried me about the turpentine. Did a little more digging and found something I didn't expect in a post by Kent Weakley. About have way through the article there is information comparing Linseed Oil to Boiled Linseed Oil. I'll let you decide about what/when you use the ingredients- https://turnawoodbowl.com/my-favorite-food-safe-wood-finish-waterproof-almost/ Another social media article popped up about the difficulty between turning large bowls vs. small bowls. Most of the respondents felt small bowls were more difficult. No one told Richard Raffan that! A beautiful maple burl bowl from Tim Yoder- New Turning Items- Couldn't find anything new but I did notice that Niles Bottle Stoppers have added some Yorkshire Grit products. Our generous sponsor Easy Wood Tools ( @Jordan Martindale ) is now the US source for this great sanding finish! Everything Else- Rick Turns list of YouTube woodturning videos from last week- Got to play at the lathe the other day. Everyone was making those Gnomes/Gonks. I got this idea that they should be more than just a shelf setter. Turned this one from maple and walnut. The "fur" is from Hobby Lobby. I found some of the original Niles Bottle stoppers hidden in a box. Wine bottle stopper Safe turning
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I built what I thought was the ultimate segment jig only to figure out it was not accurate enough to make perfect joints. So after some deep thought sitting with the hens and sipping on a nice German beer it hit me square in the head what the issue is. The angle can be slightly off if you cut the segments correctly then the complementary angles cancel each other out. I modified my segment jig by removing the first angle guide and making the second on big enough for some Destaco clamps. First I trim one to the angle Then I use a scale to set the length to my stop jig The stop jig overlaps the base so I put a bit of scrap under to lift the scale up After setting the fence to hold the stop jig in the same place each time I flip the part and set the cut and mark the right edge with an X Ready to cut a segment When you assemble the segments the X goes to a blank and the angles are perfect, only a rubber band is holding the segments in place. For glue up I use a hose clamp. I'll add my segment calculator tomorrow in three flavors, excel, open office and a debian install deb. JT
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May favorite magazine/book of which I am a subscriber, has produced yet another wonderful class, this class "Skills Over Jigs" leads the student to cut the umbilical cord with hand tool jigs, sharpening jigs, dovetail jigs, etc. I have purchased a few of the M&T video classes on DVD, and loved them, this class is on video and the price is right. Link to the class page is: Skills Over Jigs If you do purchase the class please report back to us how it went! From my previous experience with their other courses, I don't think you'll be disappointed Here is the trailer that just dropped.
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Honey-do Project...involved repainting all the doors and drawers in the Kitchen....Uppers were easy..take them down, paint them up....the handles needed a second hole drilled for the handle bolts...Easy to do on the table, once the paint was dry.... 9 doors for the uppers....Drawers? removed the 8 handles, paint the very FULL drawers in place, re-install the handles... It was when we got to the lower doors...this old bod is NOT getting down on the floor to remove the screws from the bottom hinges, would have had to call 911 to get me up off the floor... Again, I still need to add the second, lower bolt for the handles...after I had removed the handles, and painted the doors in place...make a cheap little jig to drill that second hole... just a scrap of Maple...lay out two holes that matched the locations of the handle's bolts...mark one hole as T..for top...insert a bolt through that hole... Bolt sticks out enough to be inserted into the existing hole on a door....Then clamp the jig in place.. MK II, MOD 4 (Bifocals) to sight down the side of the door, and the jig, when bot look parallel to each other.. Drill the hole for the bottom bolt...remove the jig, install the handle..move on to the next door....easy, right..lower back said NO, after the fifth door out of 10..will do the last 5 handles tomorrow...
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Wood Magazine came today and I was browsing the article on how to build a rocking chair. All the joints are held with loose tenons and seeing the picture, I'm thinking Domino. But no, they have a clever little shop-made jig to cut these. I have used similar things for other purposes, and until now, it never occurred to me. Note that the stock is 1.25" thick, they are using a 3/4" opening on the jig, 1/4" bit and 1/2" bushing, that results in a 1/2" tenon. Probably too much for 3/4" stock, but I think I can adjust it down. Also in the next issue, they promise 5 jigs to do loose tenons. I may retire my Bead-Lock.
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Seems I was a bit too confidant in using the above jig that I got for 2 reasons: 1) I really wanted a wide capacity dovetail jig and Leigh had this 24" one with great reviews 2) I had promised to make my oldest granddaughter this cherry blanket chest I had plans for that i really like. Well I have the jig and the wood is all milled up but my test dovetails on the same thickness boards aren't quite there yet. Due to a number of circumstances I shelved this project till I had more time to practice and get the joints right but that hasn't happened in the past year. I've watched the videos and re-read the manual but the results aren't getting that much better. I'm more than sure this jig is capable of repeatable well fitting dovetails but I haven't discovered the touch yet. Any suggestions and/or videos that aren't Leigh's (I've watched all of those several times) that might give me the ah-ha moment or suggested tips? I really need to get this on track again.....
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I was wanting a shop built tenoning jig and because I have a Delta Unifence rip fence on my table saw, I had to build a fence and a shoe. The fence is 18” long and the shoe is 12” long. When building the shoe, I used a paper shim (0.004”) to allow the shoe to slide freely along the jig fence. The jig fence references off the top of the Unifence and the shoe references off the jig's top surface. The mating sliding surfaces are cherry hardwood. I painted the shoe red to help remind me to be safe. I am getting reliable results. I used a 3/8” dia. router bit to make my mortises and a flat ground TS blade to cut the tenons. Through trial-n-error, a 0.508 shim results in a perfect mortise/tenon fit. The advantages of using this TS-tenoning jig over using the stack dado blade method are this jig will allow me to have one reference surface throughout the build, I do not have to have all the mating materials milled at the same time to allow having at least one flush mating surface, and results in producing smooth consistent tenon surfaces. I believe I will be able to use the jig fence with other shop-made accessories if the need arises. Thanks for looking. Danl
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From the album: Gun Case
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A slow week here in our turner's forum. Our Patriot Turners- What’s Coming Up- Click on the following images for links to more information- From the AAW- For The Newbies- Sanding our turnings is time consuming. Changing disks on the Velcro sanding pads just adds to the delay. I know @Gerald has a sanding disk for each grit and that can save some time. It also saves some wear and tear on the Velcro. Here's a video showing shop made sanding disk holders- Wooden scoops are always a nice addition to the kitchen. Here Richard Raffan shows us how he does them- Check out his YouTube channel for more turning videos- https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC2tEGrCP1GiVwfaT4K9bcNw Tracey Malady demonstrates the versatility of the Easy Wood Tools, @Jim from Easy Wood Tools, carbide cutters as she turns finials- Expand Your Horizons- A neat tip from Lyle Jamieson on how to keep lighter colored sapwood from darkening- Alan Stratton demonstrates some shop made jigs for creating turnings with eccentric patterns- Our local PBS station is always a little behind the rest of the country, especially when it comes to woodworking shows. This past Saturday, Jimmy Clewes was featured turning his signature platter. The episode is available for purchase at- https://www.woodsmithshop.com/episodes/season15/1511/ New Turning Items- With the Virtual AAW Symposium taking place, I am hoping there will be some new turning tools/equipment introduced. Guess we will have to wait and see. Everything Else- Rick Turns list of YouTube woodturning videos from last week- In preparation for each week's "Wednesday's...", I spend some time searching for informative videos. Some come from YouTube. I noticed recently that the YouTube users rating system seemed different. The "Thumbs Up" choice is listing the number of positive responses. The "Thumbs Down" choice doesn't show any negative votes. Thinking this was a little odd, I went searching for the reason. If you are interested in understanding the change- https://youtu.be/f1Izh3-c88Y Could this be a carryover from the "everybody gets a trophy" generation?? Safe turning and stay well
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This is the one I got from Wood Magazine and it includes the half-blind and accessory thru dovetail templates. Executive Summary: I think there are better units out there. Woodcraft has several other options. It is nice because there is an accessory template to do through dovetails. It is also sturdy and heavy built. I have two router jigs -- an old Porter-Cable one that works fine but only does half-blind dovetails and is not flexible on width of pieces. Another one that is not made any more and is way more adaptable, does through and half-blind dovetails but is extremely complex. I read the manual, went to an all day class with handouts, then spent two days studying, making notes and diagrams, and trying things. When I pull it out, it takes me an hour or two to get started with it. And to do most anything you have mid-stream adjustments and or template changes to make (permitting the opportunity to mess up). I was hoping this one would be simpler to use. I understand that with any jig, you need to fine tune the depth of the dovetailing bit to fit the pins you cut. The manual is kind of sketchy. The parts listed for the bits and templates are not exactly what was sent. It appears they changed/upgraded without changing the manual whose revision date is the same month as manufacture (I have discovered this is not uncommon from Chinese manufacturers). And the one size bushing that had a label for 7/16 on it was the wrong size 1/2". But the slots appear to be 1/2", so not sure until I do a test run. Woodcraft sent a replacement to me same day and arrived a day later. But it appears the supplied bits will work. But not listed anywhere the thru dovetails are limited to 1/2" thick wood, maybe at least on the tail pieces? I have a bigger bit but it won't work because it's a 1/2" shank and does not fit a 1/2" bushing. The settings for the template are not fixed and I was told that I'd need to fiddle with things a bit to accommodate different thicknesses of wood. The half-blind should be good once set up. But the through dovetail template needs flipped between tails and pin cutting, so you'll need to run a trial and adjustment every time. I think if I was going to buy one, I'd just go for the Leigh Through Dovetail Jig https://www.woodcraft.com/products/td330-through-dovetail-jig-leigh -
While waiting for some finish to dry today, I decided to upgrade my 30 year old miter key jig that's starting to get worn. In addition, I read an article recently about making a jig to cut spline mortises in box corners. And I've admired using dovetail keys on corners. So off we go. Raided the pile of plywood cutoffs. Glue is still drying so the thru cuts will be done when I need to use them for the first time. (in my terminology, a key is across the joint line and is visible, so I use contrasting wood. A spline is inside the glue line and is not usually visible from the outside) One for keys that are straight. I can use a rip blade for 1/8" keys, or a dado set for something larger. One for the router table for straight or dovetail keys. I will remove the fence and the guides will slide in the miter gauge slot And one for stopped splines. Put down stops and drop the piece into the bit and side to the other stop.
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From the album: Thin Rip Ideas
Similar jig with ball bearing -
https://learn.kregtool.com/projects-plans of course, you don't need to make pocket hole joints on all of them if you don't want to.
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In an odd moment or two, I though there would be a better way to make a jig for box joints rather than the jump over a spacer version that you can use on a router table or table saw with dado blade. I figured if I made a jig with a bunch of guides of the same width and just ran a zero-clearance router bearing router bit down each side, I'd get well-matching finger joints. With that in mind, I cobbled the jig below. Ripped a piece of maple and glued it together, offsetting each side. Stop block at the end and just a piece in the middle to hold it down. You can do two adjacent sides in one clamping. It worked OK, nothing fabulous, nothing failure. I'd rate it a B+ Like most box joint jigs, it's got a fixed spacing, but that's OK, I can make more if/when needed.
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I’m getting ready to build 3 rollout drawers for an island and I’m mounting Blum 563 bottom mount slides on them. The slides are installed quicker with the Blum T65 jig but I’m too cheap to spend $50 for 3 slides. Anyone have this jig and drills that I can borrow for a few weeks? I’ll pay shipping both ways.
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Tenoning Jig Retrofit
Ron Dudelston posted a topic in Machinery, Tools, Research, Reviews and Safety
I have a Delta 34-182 tenoning jig that has just undergone a repair. Delta built the slide lock using plastic for the gear like device under the lever. If you have one you know how weak it is. I removed the locking lever and replaced it with a 38mm wide knurled knob. So much better.
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The most useful tool in the shop. The Lathe.
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I found it easier to glue if I oriented the blank with the diagonal cut facing up. I use an old restaurant cutting board as a gluing work surface and pieces of the cutting board as culls and pads. In this picture, you can see the three strips to be glued into place. They measure 2” x 10 3/4” x 1/8”. Test fit the pieces first to make sure they will seat into the slot. (I now have a thick piece of Corian countertop for the gluing surface) On my first attempt, I didn’t use enough clamps- using more clamps and culls assured that all of the joints were tight. I probably overdid it with the amount of glue. A liberal coat over all mating surfaces. Clamped up After the glue has dried and the clamps removed, the blank is ready for trimming. I used to use a special table saw jig for this but found it was easier and quicker to trim off the excess insert length on the bandsaw just free handing it. Trim both ends and the side. At this point it is a good idea to “sweeten up” the layout lines, if the trimming operation removed them. Now it is just a matter of re-mounting the blank on the diagonal cutting jig and repeating the operations for making the second diagonal slot. The diagonal slots, glue ups and trimming operations are the same for each of the remaining three sides. On the lathe, ready to be turned. The final dimensions on this rolling pin were: 20” long; diameter at the center: 1 9/16”; diameter at the ends : 1 1/4”. I have tried two types of tapers. One started at the center and continued to the ends. The other starts at the ends of the ellipses and continues to the ends. Personal preferences will determine the tapers. After the blank is turned round, the layout lines for the taper can be drawn on the blank. To aid in getting it symmetrical, I started with an arc template. My turning skills leave a lot to be desired and there was too much variation from one pin to the next in diameter and symmetry. I considered purchasing a lathe duplicator but finances dictated this calls for another jig! Most of the hardware is standard off the shelf stuff- ¼” x 20 threaded stock, wing nuts, T-nuts, deck screws. The only thing “special” was the ¼” tool steel- which I purchased from a local machinist for 25 cents and then ground a rounded tip. This shape worked better than a point because it left the wood with a smoother surface. The base of the jig mounts onto the lathe bed. The back edge of the jig has the “reverse” arc of the rolling pin. The cutting portion of the jig sits on the MDF bottom and the bolt follows the arc to create the shape. The long bolt can be adjusted to position the cutter depth.
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I been using remote controlled wheels on magnets to hold wood against the table saw fence. A little softer than the skate wheels. Oh and the magnets are from Grizzly. But now they are about half the price of other wood supply places so probably not worth a flip. In some peoples minds? The stand alone magnet on the left is about the best thing for repeatable lengths of cross cut pieces from the table saw in my little mind.
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friend of mine is into that Black Powder stuff. He had a jig, to hold a revolver steady so he could reload it. he had this thing.. The butt of the grips sit into the gouge area...just doesn't sit in tightly, was cut at the wrong angle...Felt area... Is where the cylinder sits, with the hammer at half-cock....only..the hammer won't go that far...makes it hard to rotate the cylinder. hinge wasn't done the best, either. Bought some 3/4" x 4" x 24" White Oak..some new hinges, and a set of Dremel bits... Bandsaw to cut 2 pieces. Blade has way too much set...need to plane the rough edges.."shooting Board & plane? Not exactly. Stanley No. 3c. test fit the two parts.. Will do, for a start..set up the Dremel with a cutting disc..and, once I located where the cut needed to go.. I cut a line straight down. Old one was at an angle. Move the pattern out of the way, grab a gouge and a hammer.. Chop out the waste. Then lay out for the hinge's location.. To match the old one's location. Chop a recess... Make sure it fits... mark the locations of the screws.. Start a hole for the drill to follow ( they tend to wander a bit).. Drill a couple pilot holes...and.. wax the screws up, and grab a screwdriver. Laid out the other cut, and rough cut it to shape.. Not attached, yet. need to adjust to fit the revolver better, when Mr. Bishop stops by tomorrow afternoon...he can add his own felt, once the jig is stained and finished,, I even tried to match the grain to the old jig....hope it works like he wants it to... stay tuned
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