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Found 32 results

  1. Short blog from Chris Schwarz on hand cut dovetails https://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/chris-schwarz-blog/dovetailing-trick-beginners?k=O5aSyEQDrOJ71MtJucCkmub0UnqR%2BIUKrY3UU4gftQ8%3D&utm_medium=email&utm_source=newsletter&utm_campaign=pww-kbo-nl-180502-dovetails
  2. steven newman

    dovetails.jpg

    From the album: A Stepback Cupboard

    I might need a bit more practice, doing these handcut, half blind dovetails....I donot apply any finish to the sides, or the insides, of drawers....tkes to long for the smell to go away...Ash for the front, pine for the sides, poplar for the back. 1/4" plywood for the bottom.
  3. eazygeezer

    handcut dovetails

    So I am practicing handcut dove tails. I am up to cut 12, still a few minor things im not happy with but my OCD wont be happy till there are no mistakes!! Below is attempt 12 So my issues here were the knife wall for the middle pin was compressed, you could see from the inside. The finish on the proud parts of the joint was rough. I find that when chiselling out the waste my chisel doesn't seem to cut very well on chop cuts. I literally sharpened them before I started the joint as well!! Maybe I am being a bit too aggressive, or could it just be that pine compresses more easily? Hopefully 13 will be my lucky One!!
  4. As some of you know, my sister has made it her life's work to make sure I get to heaven- fat chance! This time, she has me making a tithe box and shelf for her minister's church. I worked with him thru emails and Sketchup drawings to get the approval on the design/materials/hardware. The box is 1/2" thick birch and walnut stock with hand cut dovetails. Top and bottom are mounted in dados. The top is flush with the sides and the bottom is slightly recessed. The shelf is 3/4" birch plywood with shop made walnut edging. The hardware is a half mortised lock and a 110° stopped piano hinge. The minister has someone in the congregation do the finishing. The box is about 14" L x 7" W x 6" H. I did hit the walnut with mineral spirits to see what the grain would look like with finish- Thanks for looking!
  5. Ol Buck

    Dovetail Project

    GONNA BUILD A DOVETAIL ''FRAME'' FOR 24 INCH. YEAW IT'L BE LOT OF CAREFULNESS, BUT HEY WHAT ELSE HAVE WE GOT. INTO 3 WK OF REHAB. STILL GOT AWAYS TO GO, BUT AN OLDMAN CAN DREAM?
  6. Seems like a new/old process. All sorts & $'s of jigs. Some hand cut theres. DIFFERENT BITS. Differences bout ALL OF IT. JUST A SUGGESTION, OK.
  7. Kelso Chris

    Humidor finished

    So I had posted a few weeks back about the humidor I was building. At that time I had assembled the outer case and started the finish. Since then I have lined it with Spanish cedar, built storage trays and conditioned the cedar by wetting it with distilled water a few times.
  8. Neat idea for aligning pieces for hand cut dovetails http://www.finewoodworking.com/2005/10/25/a-simple-trick-for-aligning-pins-and-tails?source=w1722enl&tp=i-H43-BC-12U-4oD44-1o-4vrt-1c-4niDc-bErcg&utm_campaign=fine-woodworking-eletter&utm_source=eletter&utm_medium=eletter&utm_content=fw_eletter&cid=3998&mid=71071968
  9. John Morris

    English China Plate Cabinet

    From the album: Old English Plate Shelf

    Finished and ready for delivery. My go to finishing schedule for most of my flat work is water based dyes for color, followed by a coat of boiled linseed oil, then oil based varnish. I still love the warmth and glow of oil based varnishes, it has a warmth that I love.

    © Courtland Woodworks

  10. I got a little shop time yesterday! So I thought I'd make a little something for our daughter's violin teacher, she has taken it upon herself to give our daughter lessons pro bono, but we could not have that so I told every now and then I'd get something out of the shop for her. We are starting small at first so I can get an idea of her tastes, once I know what she likes in her home (mountain cabin with cedar walls) then we'll get more extravagant. I decided on a simple little shaker style wall shelf with sliding dovetails. Of course every project starts out with a plank of wood! Then with a couple simple layout tools we can commence to just having some fun and layout some lines. It takes me a few tries before I get something that looks pleasing. It is purely a personal thing, and even after I do the layout and it all looks good on wood, I really don't know what I will think about it until I get it cut out and set it up to see how the proportions look. The idea here is to just have fun with it. After about a dozen tries I finally came out with some lines I enjoy. This photo is the bottom of the wall shelf. You can click on this one to view it larger to see the line. This next photo is the top of the shelf, I loved how this one turned out, I tried some tighter radius's and a thinner top portion, but then I went bold and just used my string bow for the radius. Click on photo for larger image. I cut the first half out on the band saw, I only like cutting up to the line about a 1/6th proud, I am horrible at following a line on the line, if I try to cut to the line I typically cut over it and blow the layout, I am one of those unfortunates that do not have a good eye and steady feed to be able to cut right to the line so I leave the line in place, and spindle sand or plane to the line. Below you'll see the first half is finished, and it is laid up over the second half to mark out. I am pleased with the appearance of the layout after it has been cut out. I have a Porter Cable 4210 Dovetail Jig that is really handy for these smaller jobs. I like to use the sliding dovetail feature instead of dadoing the shelves in. I like the way the sliding dovetail lends that extra level of assurance that the shelves will not separate from the sides of case work like this. Think about it, an interlocking shelf that with all your might you could not pull apart even before it is glued up, then you add glue, and it would take a herculean effort to pull the sides away from the shelf, I like to make projects to last lifetimes, to hand down to generations. I know this is just a simple shelf, but 150 years from now, it will still be in one piece bar any disaster such as fire or landfill. You could drop this from 10 feet up and it will not separate. I like to think that anything I do will age and gain a rich patina, and the marks of wear from a century of knick knacks along with salt and pepper shakers that will have inhabited the shelf. I like to do my runs in sets, to assure that the two Dovetail slots will line up perfectly. So I clamp my halves together and then I insert the halves in the jig. These halves will stay clamped together for the duration of the slotting operations. You want to be sure you position the clamp in a manner that you do not have to pull it off to make room for the next operation. If you do have to pull it off, you'll need to use a second clamp to secure the boards before you pull off the first clamp. Click on image to enlarge. Just another shot of the two boards in position, the dovetail slot is the longer narrow area in the middle of the template. Now the Porter Cable 4210 Dovetail Jighas a handy little feature just like the bigger jigs do, a router bit depth stop. The depth stop is marked out accordingly, 1/4" for routing dovetail slots in 1/2" lumber, 3/8" for routing slots in 3/4" lumber, and 1/2" for routing slots in 1" lumber. I forgot to say, the PC 4210 comes with bushings and a dovetail bit that are suited for this jig. In this case I set my router bit depth to 3/8", I planed my lumber for the sides to 5/8" to give the shelf some depth and difference in the parts, and I wanted the slot to be routed as deep as possible without compromising the integrity of the sides. Click image to enlarge. With the halves in place and the boards set to the line in the jig ,and the bit depth set, the operation was completed, I am sorry I did not get any pictures of the actual operation, but it would have been difficult to hold the camera in one hand and the router in the other! TIP:When you route the slot, come in from both sides as to prevent tear out. Start from one side, cut the slot length about 90 percent, back your router back down the slot to exit, then come in from the opposite side, this will prevent unsightly blow out of the edges. One slot cut one to go. As you can see the two halves are still clamped up! You want to keep them clamped up until your finished with the slot cutting operations. Now the two halves are rotated 180 degrees (on this piece because of the location of the slots, yours will differ) with some operations you can keep feeding the work in one direction until you run out of room or support, but with this small shelf, it had to be rotated. The opposite end is now in the jig, and just for assurance, even though I drew my lines out accurately, I check the board for squareness in relation to the jig. And the second slot is cut just as the first one was. TIP: Do any sanding of the surface of the slotted boards before you slot them! If you sand them after you slot them, you'll ruin the reference to the dovetailed boards, and you'll create an unsightly gap between the ends of the shelves and the surface of the slotted board. Now with my slots cut and clamp removed I set the two halves out of the way and I get set for the routing operation of the shelf ends for the dovetail style profile. I start off with a piece of scrap the exact same thickness as the shelves. TIP: If your going to thickness plane the shelves, make sure you plane a piece of scrap at the same time to use for a test run in this procedure. In my case, I did not plane the shelves, so I was able to use a cutoff from the band saw operation. This portion of the entire operation is the only time you'll need to make some minor adjustments. The routing of the slots is straight forward, it is what it is, set the depth of the bit, line em up and cut. Routing the ends of the shelves is where all adjustments are made. Set the scrap piece in the jig up to the template, keeping your router bit at the same depth throughout the entire procedure, make your first test cut. Remove your test piece and see how it fits! As you can see my first test run turned out a sloppy fitting joint. Click image to enlarge. To adjust this slop out, you'll need to adjust the black knob, then the brass knob, it only takes a slight twist clockwise of both knobs on each side of the jig to take up the slop, what this does is cut less of the material away by putting more of the lumber under the aluminum jig. You'll have to flip your test piece over or cut off the one end to make a new cut. Since I have slop, there is no re-using the same cut end. If it were too tight, I could turn the knobs counter clockwise, bring the board out from under the template thus cutting more away. Sorry for the poor picture quality on this one, but you can see the adjusting knobs. Ahhhh, perfect fit now!!! You don't want the fit to be snug, you want to be able to slide the piece with some resistance, but not a whole lot, you'll need some room for the glue, and if your doing a multiple shelf glue up you'll be thankful you gave yourself some room, if you don't leave the room, your glue can freeze up the joint before you get it all in place. Now we are ready for the actual shelf to be cut, the shelf is in place. And the first cut is performed. Click on image to enlarge. Once you get it all set up, the rest goes quickly, I routed the ends of my two shelves in 3 minutes. So, with the shelves now routed, the sides are slotted, we are getting ready for glue up. The rest is academic, we all know how to spread glue and insert board "A" into board "B". The only thing I would recommend here is to do a dry fit first, sometimes the boards might fit a little too snug, in which case all I do is wrap some 220 sandpaper around a paint stirrer sized stick and sand the insides of the slots to allow a little more room for the board to slide in. Use plenty of glue, to allow for lubrication while sliding the joints in place. The natural instinct is to use too little,we think that just because it is an interlocking joint that a lil dab will so ya. That may be so, but that lil dab will do ya philosophy will get you in trouble as you slide the joints in place and it freezes up on you half way through. Once the boards are in place, clamp it all up! This project up to this point took me about 2 hrs to complete, it is a simple project, fun to wind down with and you are able to freestyle it. No plans, just your eye. If I would change anything about this one, I would rip the board down to 4" instead of 6" for proportional sake only. Nevertheless I think she'll be happy with the small shelf for the wall of her mountain cabin. The dimensions are 28" tall by 18" wide and 6" deep. Though the routing setup and operation seemed like it took awhile in the tutorial, it actually only took about a half hr for setup, test cut, and final cutting. Once you get to know the jig just like with any jig, it all goes fast. Today I will sand it out to 180, apply some TransFast Early American Maple Dye and we'll talk about the rest of the finishing process in the next post! Thanks all for reading!
  11. Gerald

    Side Table

    This is a side table I did based on a shaving stand Norm did on NYW. I used sliding dovetails for the side and bottom and to put the top on . The drawers have my first try at handcut dovetails. The only screws in the piece are in the base to attach it to the drawer box and in the drawer runners. The top had a nice figure in it which I did not see till I applied the shellac. Also my first time to french polish with shellac. The garnet shellac (the only finish) will even out the color of cherry so even the sapwood will not look so bright.
  12. Well the historic wood pen turning project is moving along, slowly, but moving. Part of the deal was to make two special presentation boxes for those responsible for securing monies. The main turner involved doesn't have many wood working tools so the box making fell on me. No one had a plan as to what they wanted the boxes to look like. OK, I've made some boxes but I don't feel my skills are really up to what I think they should be for this type of project. Especially with this precious wood. My original design was to have the box larger, but the size of the beams and the number of defects, cracks and nail holes reduced it to around 4" x 7"x 1.5". The pieces are 1/4" thick. The old pine is very brittle but it still contained a surprising amount of sap. The number of knots would not allow me to use the planer and get this thickness, so I used my thickness sander. I had to clean the belt 3 time during the thicknessing process to remove the built up pitch. All of the dovetails are hand cut using a Japanese pull saw. The above picture show one of the "hinges". I used tiny cut nails salvaged from the original structure placed into pre-drilled holes. Right now they are just finger tight. The lid lift is also a little nail. I think this one has to be in a little deeper. I hate it that the round hole shows on the front. Although you can't tell from this picture, the bottom is thicker than the dado it fits into (bottom = 1/4" dado = 1/8"). About an inch of the perimeter is tapered to the edge allowing the fit. I'm not sure what to do with the inside. Maybe a couple of "U" shaped risers to hold the pen off of the bottom. Covering the interior would make for a nice contrast but it almost seems sacrilege to hide the patina. At this point, I am stumped on my next step. My original plan was to inlay a "Carpenter's Mark" in the outside of the top. I made an oval inlay pattern and cut a sample from some Poplar to see how it would look- I made certain I salvaged all of the carpenter's marks, before I made the pen blanks from the beam. Now, the problem. The pine is so brittle- even more so near the surface, that I fear the router inlay kit will splinter the the wood. To help strengthen the "mark", I covered the back of the piece with painters tape and saturated it with thin CA. I'll need to stop at Hobby Lobby tomorrow after school and pick up another bottle- thank goodness they send me 40% off coupons every week! So that's where I'm at, with this part- still needs more sanding! I was thinking about making the second box with a "pencil box" sliding lid.
  13. The April/May issue of Woodcraft Magazine has a great article called "Joinery Class". This particular entry is about Half Blind Dovetails. Within the article is a link to a video demonstrating an easy way to layout any dovetails. The best part is that you only have to make TWO measurements! Check out this video-
  14. steven newman

    Shaker Table, front legs

    Well, some dummy decided he just had to work in the Dungeon Shop this afternoon. Moved the base on to the floor, to be easier to mark other parts for sizes. The plan for today was to add the top and bottom drawer rails to the front of the base...Sooo The wider of the two goes in the top of the legs. Needed to cut a single dovetail to attach the top rail to the leg. made some marks, and made some cuts.. then chopped out the waste with a chisel or two then used this to mark on the leg's top where to cut for the socket. Then repeat the above for the other end of the top rail. Supposed to look something like this... Then start to lay out for the bottom rail. It gets a half dovetail joint. I got this side done fairly well. Then, when I went to do the other side... Would you believe I got to the point of chiseling out the waste, before I found out it was on the wrong face of the leg.... #$##@@$! About the way things have been going. Dry fit the whole base together ehhhh, needed to fine tune one spot, to allow the top rail to slip past the side apron the plan is to add a kicker between the top rail and the back apron, to keep the drawer from tipping. Drug out the top, and dropped it on the base, and added the still loose ends Will have to go back and add a filler to cover the ooops, May get a wild hair and actually try to glue this thing up..... Stay tuned, this might get scary....
  15. steven newman

    Easy project gets a bottom

    Well, went and dug out a few other toys this morning. A "better" dovetail saw, for one the one on the right is a Sheffield "Crown" Gents saw. Seemed to cut a might bit better. Should, I don't think it has been used til now. Dug out a narrow mortise chisel, too. Plan was just to saw down to a line, then chop out the waste. Each set of tails seemed to look better than the last set, so there was some progress, at least. Tried the fit out by putting the box together Not too bad? Next, scrounged a plywood bottom for the box. Had some good 3/8 cabinet stuff, but wasn't the right size. Had to use some old 1/2" stuff. Decided to add a rebate around the edges, so a Wards #78 plane was dragged out and set up. Plywood isn't exactly a wood of choice for this, but I think it will do. Didn't even add any glue to this thing, just knocked it together and nailed the bottom on. Figured I would just keep the box down in the shop, as a catch-all for tools on the move Like a set of chisels. I can even set other trays on top, if needed Like my router bit tray. I even found a place to stow all them brace & bit sets Four of them on this side, and the other two are on the far side. Was going to hang them from the overhead joists, but thought it safer for my head to keep them down low. Just taking things easy, an hour here and there at a time. Trying to place things back in their places in the tool chests. Or, somewhere easy to find them....
  16. John Moody and I were talking today about dovetail jigs. We both have the Peachtree version and the discussion got around to replacement bits and it looks like the Amana bit for the Keller system is identical to the Peachtree bit. I heard that Keller's patent ran out and Peachtree copied it. Any input on this? Anyone have a Keller system?
  17. My first go at hand cutting DTs. The drawer material is 3/4 pine from the BORG (2 drawers 24" sq outside on Blummotion heavy duty slides) The project is a pedestal for a front loading washer dryer It's made from  mortised 2-by material. Shelled in with half inch birch. Will be filled and  painted to match the appliances. nothing fancy Rise height 24" or thereabouts  (emphasis on the thereabouts) The wheels in the rear  are swivel type the ones  in the front are Great Lakes Casters that pick the wheel up off the floor when I rotate a little star-wheel in the caster in order to lock them  Three in front three in the back.   I used my hand made DT saws.  Note one is brass backed the other  still has the back that came it from the BORG when it was a sheet rock mud scraper.  I got lazy.  Both are 24 TPI.   Getting the "hang" for the handle was a bit of a trick as I didn't even know about "hang" when I started.  I made the saws mounted handles and  when I started a cut they just stuck solid like they were nailed to the wood.  The handle's angle and location is important.   The project       Some tools     My two DT saws           The first Drawer all glued up with the bottom ( half inch Birch)     Just stop and think about this a moment. All kinds of guys looking at some crappy pine drawer cobbled together with hand tools  the fit is  - well  - - hey it's an effort - and it's some guy's first effort at cutting the joints and some people find this interesting? Really???   REALLY????? Well you may just BE a woodworker  = coz ain't no one else going to find it interestin' ~!!!     I haven't built a moxxon vice so I just used the project to hold the drawer sides.   Marking out the pins or are they tails - - it gets so Konfoozin       Ohh look~!!  they might just fit.           Fitment detail to follow         And the thing is square too              
  18. From the album: Old Jail Presentation Boxes

    presentation boxes for old jail pens

    © Lewis Kauffman

  19. From the album: Old Jail Presentation Boxes

    presentation boxes for old jail pens

    © Lewis Kauffman

  20. John Morris

    Photo Submitted by our Customer

    From the album: Old English Plate Shelf

    This image was supplied by our customer, he wanted us to capture the feel of this 18th Century English China Shelf. He saw the shelf at auction, the auction was taking place in Europe, but he thoughtfully realized that the cost of the shelf, including shipping to the states, was getting a tad high, so he sought us out as we had done work for him in the past, and thought of us as his builder. And we are glad he did, we had a blast making it. I used the image to scale the shelf, considering his desire to make it 48" wide by 40" tall, I was able to scale it out on grid paper and duplicate much of the details and the proportions.

    © Courtland Woodworks

  21. John Morris

    English China Plate Cabinet

    From the album: Old English Plate Shelf

    The cabinet in place at its final resting place, with pewter molds in place. You'll see the tails are cut into the side of the cabinet and exposed, I set the tails on the side of the cabinet to lend it downward strength, the mechanics of the joinery will not allow any weight to push down and separate the corners.

    © Courtland Woodworks

  22. John Morris

    English China Plate Cabinet

    From the album: Old English Plate Shelf

    In place at a home where the resident loves colonial works, and this piece fit right in.

    © Courtland Woodworks

  23. John Morris

    Built Up Crown Molding

    From the album: Old English Plate Shelf

    The crown is built up, by using traditional methods of building crown, just as it was done the old days, they did not have power nor molding knives, so just as they did, we did, by shaping each facet of the crown as an independent piece, then applying them on top of each other.

    © Courtland Woodworks

  24. John Morris

    English China Plate Cabinet (Rear)

    From the album: Old English Plate Shelf

    In all my work, I always make the unseen areas just as finished as the seen areas, I think it makes it more custom and refined when you can look all over the work, and see a finished side instead of unfinished.

    © Courtland Woodworks

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