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Showing results for tags 'motor'.
Found 19 results
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I have an old Warner 1/2 hp motor, 1440 rpm, probably built in the 50's. It powers a lathe which was also built about the same time, and has seen a fair amount of use, now in its third home. I know that it was turning CCW up until I plugged it in, and it brewed up CW. Name plate says 220/110 (and it's 1-phase). The motor leads have a woven cover insulation, and there is no wiring diagram anywhere. Also, I don't know if I'd trust the color of the wires; one wire has the label "3" on it. I have a bit of experience with motors, but not enough to understand wye and delta and bezacktly why it chose now to reverse itself, but I assume there is some phase thingy change between central Phoenix (where it was running CCW) and its current home (about 10 miles south-er). Would swapping the leads do the trick, or might that smoke it?
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Pulled motor on Powermatic 65 table saw, made repairs to elevation gears, reinstalled motor, and it will not run. It just buzzes and tries to turn. I checked switch for loose wires, plugged into wall socket that is running fine on belt sander. My volt/amp meter conked out, so I bought another one that has a clamp-on the cord type tester, but haven't checked it out. According to youtube, I can check capacitor with this tester. Will check it and also to see if a connection on the motor might have pulled out. Any other suggestions? Thanks!
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Has anyone had any experience with one of these? And if so, how'd ya like it? Pros or cons? King Arthur's Tools Total Sanding Kit I wonder if I could use my slow speed grinder, attach a chuck to it, and purchase just the flex shaft?
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Time to mount the drum and motor to the frame. The choice of 2 x 6 sides was made to hopefully eliminate any flexing when work pieces were in contact with the sanding surface. However, that lead to difficulty in figuring out how to be able to mount the drum bearings to the sides. Long carriage bolts can be expensive! The sides are counter bored about 3” and then drilled to match the bolt diameter. An area around the mounting surface was mortised for an aluminum plate. The pillow block bearings will set on the plate, not the wooden surface. Again, my hope is to improve stability. (counter bore and carriage bolts) I was afraid that the soft pine might crush enough to allow the bolts to spin during tightening. Once everything was dry fitted, the bolt heads were Gorilla Glued to help prevent them from spinning. (gorilla Glue) Finally, the aluminum plates are placed in position- ready for the drum to be bolted down. (alumin plates) The motor is mounted to a piece of 3/4 “ plywood. The plywood is fastened to the frame using small “barn style” hinges at one end of the plywood. The weight of the motor creates the tension on the belt/pulley system. I routed slots for the motor mounting bolts in order to be able to adjust the motor side to side to align the belt/pulley. (motor mount 1,2,3)
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A nice sale going on for those in the market for a new motor. This Week's Deal! WWW.SHOPSMITH.COM Special Limited-Time Savings From Shopsmith
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Hello, My grandfather gave me all of his wood turning tools that he brought with him from overseas before moving to the greatest country, America. I’m wanting to fix up the wood lathe. Do you guys have any 1hp+ motor(s) suggestions? I have even noticed folks using motors from other types of equipment to run lathe. I’m hoping to stick around $200 range. thank you! -
Hi, I have an Unisaw and I bought it second hand about 10 years ago. Up until a few days ago it was opperation fine. But after ripping a few boards, when turing the saw on, the blade rotated slowly and then the 20 Amp breaker tripped. I attempted this a few more times and the same thing happened. I have a planer on the same circut and it worked fine. I took out the capacitor and the other fuse and had them tested at a motor shop and they told me that they were fine. I will attempt to switch the breaker on that line with another, but with this information, what else should I look a that would cause it to draw more amps than normaol on start up? The brushes? Also when I took the capacitor out, it was chuck full of saw dust and I had to take a tool to get the sawdust cleard out to see the connectors on the capacitor. Do you think this may have been an issue, sawdust on the points? Best regards, Ron -
thought this may be of some help... Caution: *1. Disconnect power to the motor before performing service or maintenance. *2. Discharge all capacitors before servicing motor. *3. Always keep hands and clothing away from moving parts. *4. Be sure required safety guards are in place before starting equipment. Motor fails to start upon initial installation. Like Causes: Motor is miswired. Verify motor is wired correctly per information supplied with the motor. Motor damaged and rotor is striking stator. May be able to reassemble; otherwise, motor should be replaced. Fan guard bent and contacting fan. Replace fan guard or, if possible, straighten it out. Motor has been running, then fails to start. Like Causes: Fuse or circuit breaker tripped. Replace fuse or reset the breaker. Stator is shorted or went to ground. Motor will make a humming noise and the circuit breaker or fuse will trip. Disassemble motor and inspect windings and internal connections. A blown stator will show a burn mark. Motor must be replaced or the stator rewound. Motor overloaded or load jammed. Inspect to see that the load is free. Verify amp draw of motor versus nameplate rating. Capacitor (on single phase motor) may have failed. First discharge capacitor. To check capacitor, set volt-ohm meter to RX100 scale and touch its probes to capacitor terminals. If capacitor is OK, needle will jump to zero ohms, and drift back to high. Steady zero ohms indicates a short circuit; steady high ohms indicates an open circuit. Starting switch has failed. Disassemble motor and inspect both the centrifugal and stationary switches. The weights of the centrifugal switch should move in and out freely. Make sure that the switch is not loose on the shaft. Inspect contacts and connections on the stationary switch. Replace switch if the contacts are burned or pitted. Motor runs but dies down. Like Causes: Voltage drop. If voltage is less than 10% of the motor’s rating contact power company or check if some other equipment is taking power away from the motor.* If motor is run using an extension cord, verify that this extension cord is properly sized for motor's current draw. Load increased. Verify the load has not changed. Verify equipment hasn’t got tighter. If fan application verify the air flow hasn’t changed. Motor takes too long to accelerate. Like Causes: Defective capacitor Test capacitor per previous instructions. Faulty stationary switch. Inspect switch contacts and connections. Verify that switch reeds have some spring in them. Bad bearings. Noisy or rough feeling bearings should be replaced. Voltage too low. Make sure that the voltage is within 10% of the motor’s nameplate rating. If not, contact power company or check if some other equipment is taking power away from the motor. Motor runs in the wrong direction. Like Causes: Incorrect wiring. Rewire motor according to wiring schematic provided. Motor overload protector continually trips. Like Causes: Load too high. Verify that the load is not jammed. If motor is a replacement, verify that the rating is the same as the old motor. If previous motor was a special design, a stock motor may not be able to duplicate the performance. Remove the load from the motor and inspect the amp draw of the motor unloaded. It should be less than the full load rating stamped on the nameplate. Ambient temperature too high. Verify that the motor is getting enough air for proper cooling. Most motors are designed to run in an ambient temperature of less than 40°C. (Note: A properly operating motor may be hot to the touch.) Protector may be defective. Replace the motor’s protector with a new one of the same rating. Winding shorted or grounded. Inspect stator for defects, or loose or cut wires that may cause it to go to ground. Motor vibrates. Like Causes: Motor misaligned to load. Realign load. Load out of balance. (Direct drive application.) Remove motor from load and inspect motor by itself. Verify that motor shaft is not bent. Rule of thumb is .001" runout per every inch of shaft length. Motor bearings defective. Test motor by itself. If bearings are bad, you will hear noise or feel roughness. Replace bearings. Add oil if a sleeve of bearing. Add grease if bearings have grease fittings. Rotor out of balance. Inspect motor by itself with no load attached. If it feels rough and vibrates but the bearings are good, it may be that the rotor was improperly balanced at the factory. Rotor must be replaced or rebalanced. Motor may have too much endplay. With the motor disconnected from power turned shaft. It should move but with some resistance. If the shaft moves in and out too freely, this may indicate a preload problem and the bearings may need additional shimming. Winding may be defective. Test winding for shorted or open circuits. The amps may also be high. Replace motor or have stator rewound. Bearings continuously fail. Like Causes: Load to motor may be excessive or unbalanced. Besides checking load, also inspect drive belt tension to ensure it’s not too tight may be too high. An unbalanced load will also cause the bearings to fail. High ambient temperature. If the motor is used in a high ambient, a different type of bearing grease may be required.You may need to consult the factory or a bearing distributor. The motor, at start up, makes a loud rubbing or grinding noise. Like Causes: Rotor may be striking stator. Ensure that motor was not damaged in shipment. Frame damage may not be repairable. If you cannot see physical damage, inspect the motor’s rotor and stator for strike marks. If signs of rubbing are present, the motor should be replaced. Sometimes simply disassembling and reassembling motor eliminates rubbing. Endbells are also sometimes knocked out of alignment during transportation. Start capacitors continuously fail. Like Causes: The motor is not coming up to speed quickly enough. Motor may not be sized properly. Verify how long the motor takes to come up to speed. Most single phase capacitor start motors should come up to speed within three seconds. Otherwise the capacitors may fail. The motor is being cycled too frequently. Verify duty cycle. Capacitor manufacturers recommend no more than 20, three second starts per hour. Install capacitor with higher voltage rating, or add bleed resistor to the capacitor. Voltage to motor is too low. Verify that voltage to the motor is within 10% of the nameplate value. If the motor is rated 208-230V, the deviation must be calculated from 230V. Starting switch may be defective, preventing the motor from coming out of start winding. Replace switch. Run capacitor fail. Ambient temperature too high. Verify that ambient does not exceed motor’s nameplate value. Possible power surge to motor, caused by lightning strike or other high transient voltage. If it is a common problem, install a surge protector. 1. Look at the label on the electric motor to determine the voltage it needs to operate. Make a note of the voltage. 2. Find the two small metal terminals on the electric motor. They are near the back and have two colored wires; usually red and black, attached to them. 3. Turn on the power unit that supplies electricity to the electric motor. You need to check if electricity is getting to the motor. 4. Turn on the multimeter. Ensure it is set to measure volts as multimeters. It can also measure amperes and ohms. 5. Place the copper sensors running from the multimeter onto the metal terminals on the small electric motor. The sensor on the end of the red wire from the multimeter touches the terminal that has a red wire attached. The sensor on the end of the black wire from the meter touches the terminal that has a black wire attached. Ensure you don’t touch the outer casing of the electric motor, as you may get a false reading. 6. Check the multimeter measurement. It measures the same, or similar, to the voltage you noted from the label on the electric motor if power is reaching the motor. If you have a reading and your motor isn’t operating, it’s certain the motor is the problem and needs replacing. If you don’t get a measurement, then it means power isn’t reaching the motor, so it may not be the motor that’s faulty. 7. Check the power source. Locate the two terminals and place the sensors from the end of the multimeter wires onto the two terminals as before: red on the terminal that has the red wire attached and black on the terminal that has the black wire attached. 8. Read the multimeter display. It reads the same or similar voltage as you noted earlier if the power source is producing electricity. If you get a reading, then you know that the wiring is faulty because you’ve already found that electricity isn’t reaching the motor. You need to replace the wiring before your motor will work. If you don’t get a reading, or the reading is very low, you have a problem with the power source rather than the motor. -
Delta Catalog 800 Motor Badge (1937)
Larry Buskirk posted a topic in Old Machinery Badges and Decals
View File Delta Catalog 800 Motor Badge (1937) Delta Catalog No. 800 Motor Badge (1937) Submitter Larry Buskirk Submitted 12/04/2015 Category Delta Mfg. Co. -
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Delta Catalog No. 800 Motor Badge (1937) -
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Delta Catalog No. 800 motor badge (1935-36) -
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Delta Catalog No. 900 motor badge (1935-36) -
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6 downloads
Delta Catalog Number 924 Motor Badge Image (1935-36) -
View File Catalog 924 Motor Badge Image Delta Catalog Number 924 Motor Badge Image (1935-36) Submitter Larry Buskirk Submitted 11/26/2015 Category Delta Mfg. Co.
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Delta Catalog 820 Motor Badge (1935-36) Image -
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3 downloads
Delta Catalog 1120 Motor Badge (1935-36) Image -
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17 downloads
Delta Catalog 1094 Motor Badge (1935-36) Image -
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9 downloads
Delta Catalog 9502 Motor Badge Image -
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20 downloads
Delta Catalog 84-510 Motor Badge Image
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