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Found 11 results

  1. Well I did it. I finally pulled the trigger and landed me one of my dreams, one of my bucket list purchases. Yes, this is a tool gloat, and I am anxiously awaiting my new LN No. 51 Shoot Board Plane to arrive in the mail this Tuesday. I was going to wait till I got her in my hands, then gloat, but my gloating is pushing through my brain right now and I need to let is loose or I'll explode. A few years ago I saw and used a beautiful example of a Stanely No. 51 Shooting Board Plane and I have wanted one ever since. The main drawback of course is the price of the old Stanely Shooting Planes range from 800 bucks on up depending on the condition. I have some planes right now that would work as a shooter, but I really want a dedicated set up, in other words, I am spoiling myself. Here is an old Stanely No. 51 going for around $875.00 and that's a great price for it in the great condition it's in! Here is a fine example of a No. 52 with a hard to find Stanley Shooting Board for around $2000.00 The LN No. 51 for $500.00 and I feel it's a better tool as well, finely machined, a nice 9lbs in weight to plow through the grain, and less expensive than the originals. I looked at Veritas, they have a beautiful example of a Shooting Plane as well but I really like the traditional concept of the Stanley that LN produces. Tuesday, will be my big day, when I get home from my day job and see that box sitting in my shop, mama will receive it and she just throws anything I get in the mail on my work bench, I hope she places this one on the bench and not her usual toss. So that's it folks, my big gloat of the year, it's not often we get something new in the old shop, this is special, and I can't wait to make my own shooting board, already have some pretty good plans for them, and a long grain shooting board as well for accurately planing the long edge of boards. So cool! Links Lie Nielsen Shooting Board Plane My original topic on this plane at Thank you for putting up with my gloat.
  2. until
    Central Minnesota Woodworker's Association is a group of men and women from around the St. Cloud Minnesota area who share a common interest in the art and business of woodworking. They meet monthly in St. Cloud to share information, techniques and topics of interest in the area of woodworking. Learn more about membership or support on their website, www.thecwma.com.
  3. until
    Russ Filbeck - Chairmaker Russ Filbeck is a master chairmaker located in San Diego, CA. He makes his own spoke shaves and shaving horse to shave chair parts, and enjoys talking with other craftsmen about his process for building Windsor and Ladder Back chairs. During events, Russ will demonstrate steam bending Shaker boxes, chair legs and slats. Come sit in his chairs and watch him work. David Fleming - Cabinetmaker David makes fine wood furniture and teaches small classes in fine woodworking techniques in the tradition of his teacher and mentor, the late James Krenov. As part of his work and interest in traditional woodworking, he enjoys restoring and using older woodworking machinery and hand tools.
  4. until
    Founded in 1960 as the Philadelphia Maritime Museum Independence Seaport Museum is the region's primary repository of art, artifacts and archival materials documenting the diverse maritime history of the Greater Delaware Valley, and the history of the Port of Philadelphia and the other major urban ports of the Delaware River.
  5. until
    Gary Rogowski is a furniture designer, maker, and author. A Contributing Editor for Fine Woodworking Magazine for 15 years, he has hundreds of articles, videos, and two woodworking books published. He writes now for magazines and teaches internationally. He is the Director of The Northwest Woodworking Studio in Portland, OR. His focus is on no nonsense solutions to common woodworking problems through week long classes, one month intensives and his two year Distance Mastery Study and one year Resident Mastery Study Programs. The Northwest Woodworking Studio
  6. My next hand plane, I gotta have her. Been collecting Lie Nielsen's over the last 12 years, and it's time now to make a big jump for their No. 51 Shooting Plane. She is absolutely gorgeous. Still eating off the proceeds of my big stationary machinery sell off, and having a blast spending it! Hey, dad don't get this much money very often and I don't know when I'll have it again, it's my turn! No. 51 Shoot Board Plane The Lie-Nielsen Shoot Board Plane is based on the Stanley 51, which was made between 1909 and 1943 and sold with a companion metal shooting board. Our Shoot Board Plane will fit the original Stanley board, but can be used with any type of shooting board. Plans for simple shop-made shooting boards are included with the tool. The skew-set blade can be adjusted for lateral adjustment to allow for angled cuts, such as draft for pattern work. Read more...
  7. John Morris

    Just a Fun Image

    From the album: Big Ash Mallet

    Here is a fun picture showing the hand tools I used to help make this mallet, it took a combination of my table saw to make the slots, the shoulder plane to clean up the slots, the miter saw to cut the blanks at 5 degrees, and my hand tools to shape and make it interesting.
  8. From the album: Big Ash Mallet

    I cleaned up the slots with shoulder plane, the slots were heavily kerfed so I used the shoulder plane to knock the kerfs down, not all the way, but just enough to clean it up.
  9. I love these, just thought I'd share it here.
  10. For our East Coast woodworkers, Lie Nielsen is holding their annual open house for 2015 on July 10-11. Lie Nielsen is located in Maine, so if you are anywhere near Maine, as small a state as Maine is, it could be very close to you! If you go please report back to us and let us know how it went. Click on the image to be taken to the Lie Nielsen website for the location of their company and more details.
  11. When I laid my rocker on my workbench last weekend I had a chance to become familiar with it. I remember now part of the reason I set aside to begin with was because the moisture content was just too high, the sawyer I purchased the slab from assured me it was in the 6 to 8 percent range but it turned out to be around 12 percent, and I could feel it as I cut into it and machined the parts the inside was very cool to the touch. So since I was in it as far as I was, I completed the cut list, then set it aside, during the last year since I set it aside, the parts moved a bit and the joints do not fit as well. Fortunately the movement was not in the direction that the fit would be destroyed, but some finessing had to be done anyways to get that tight fit that is the "money shot" on these chairs joinery. The first image shows the sloppy joint, rear leg to rear seat joint. You can see the slop, there should be about a 32nd of slop to allow for the expansion of the tongue, so that is fine, but the gap at the top of the tongue where it meets the bottom of the groove, is way too much. You can see the bad fit here as well. and here Very "gappy" indeed. So to fix this, first I re-flattened the bottom of the groove with a medium shoulder plane, shoulder planes come with the blade just a tad narrower then the width of the plane, so you have to flush the side of the blade to the side of the plane you are going to be using against the wall of the groove, then to plane the other side of the groove, you'll need to flatten the blade to the other side of the plane body, I do this by laying the plane on my table saw, loosen the spinwheel below the cap, which in turn loosens the blade, then I let the blade naturally rest flush with the plane body on the flat surface of the saw. This assures the blade is flush with the plane body, then I re-tighten the spinwheel to secure the blade. As shown below. Since I am lacking a proper hand tool work bench (mine is more suitable for assembly) I have to use two bar clamps to hold the irregular shape of the rear legs to my bench in order for me to plane the grooves flat with my shoulder plane. I can work the bottoms leg grooves in this manner. Then I can clamp the leg flat on the bench to work the bottoms of the grooves for the adjacent leg sides. After a couple test fits, it's time to work the face of the joints to re-flatten them and to make them 90 degrees to the chair seat. Remember my material moved over the last year, so things are completely wanky. I had to really look at this before I came to the conclusion on how to fix these joints. I used my low angle jack for this process, I had to take the faces down to close the gap at the joints and to close the gap at the grooves where the groove bottoms meet the seat tongues. In the next image you'll see the sides are now parallel with the seat joint, there is an even gap around the seat joint to rear leg. Since I flattened the joint sides, it changed the radius of the leg, so the joint cannot be closed. I knew this was going to happen, but the most important goal was to get the leg square with the seat joint once again, and I knew I could re-shape the 3/4" radius after. I mounted the 3/4" radius router bit in my table, and made sure the bearing was flush to the fence. I ran a test piece of lumber through the setup and test fit it against the radius of the chair seat, and it was a perfect fit. Then the actual leg was run through. And the fit is perfect. After clamping the legs to the seat, the fit was even better than perfect, it is skin tight. I must admit when I first set my rocker parts on my bench and tested the joints, I was very depressed, it looked like a lost cause at first, but really anything can be fixed, well most things can in the world of woodworking, after I fixed these joints, my day was a good day.

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