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Found 11 results

  1. John Morris


    From the album: A Wedding Cross

    Some very fine nice and straight lines.
  2. Well I was assigned the duty of Wedding Cross Maker, our oldest girl is tying the knot with her fiance on October 1st. And being the woodworker of the two clans, of course folks would be expecting me to step up! It's a fun project, basic, simple, I'll sand to 800 then 1200 abralon, and a wipe on finish, the cross will have a base, and they are going to wrap a garland of flowers over half the cross, it'll be beautiful. Thanks for looking!
  3. From the album: A Wedding Cross

    My beautiful Lie Nielsen Carcass saw, staying in the marked out lines, this saw is a pleasure to use. A little trick I learned is to keep the reflection of the board on the saw, straight, this indicates you are cutting down straight.
  4. John Morris

    Just a Fun Image

    From the album: Big Ash Mallet

    Here is a fun picture showing the hand tools I used to help make this mallet, it took a combination of my table saw to make the slots, the shoulder plane to clean up the slots, the miter saw to cut the blanks at 5 degrees, and my hand tools to shape and make it interesting.
  5. My son approached me last month and asked if we could build a desk for his bedroom for this upcoming school year, he is planning on a ton of homework and being in 10th grade and all, the work is going to get harder and harder. He asked me to help him build the desk just before I went into the hospital back in early June, I was in bad shape for the first few weeks coming out of the hospital and meanwhile he was asking me when we can start the desk, bless his little soul and heart, as crappy as I was feeling, he felt that ol Dad could get up and go and power through it all with a desk build. I had to put it off, with the way I was feeling, it wasn't even safe for me to be out there in the shop, and the fact that he asked me during that time period, and asked a few more times, indicates I was putting on a pretty positive attitude show for the family, despite how I was feeling. So, now that I am feeling pretty ok, much better than before, me and the boy went to the lumber yard and picked up a few cherry boards. The desk will be cherry, with walnut legs, he wanted two tone. Actually he wanted a Walnut desk, but once we got to the yard, the walnut was just too expensive, so he came around to cherry. We have a budget and we needed to stay within. And it so happens that I had some left over walnut so we'll incorporate the walnut into the mainly cherry desk somehow, thinking possibly the legs will be walnut. I had my boy rip down the boards on the Shopsmith, he did pretty good, burned the cherry on one edge and I then I took the second board and showed him how to use moderate steady feed rate and also keeping it against the fence. Once we had the boards sized, we chose one edge to join, the boards will be cut in half, and folded against each-other and glued edge to edge. I showed my son Jeroid how to handle the big No. 8C, he knows how mostly as he worked with me often years ago, but many years have gone by since he's been by my side in the shop, so picking up the plane again took some practice, fortunately we left the board wide by an 1/8" because I knew Jeroid was going to need practice room to get the edge right. Jeroid took a few passes on the edge and did pretty good, he had a few issues keeping the plane in constant contact with the edge, but he figured it out, I just stood back and let him error, and figure it out. He did. He really got the hang of it, and started to enjoy the process. By the last couple passes he had some shavings singing from the plane, I could tell he felt really good about what he was doing. The edge did get a little off, so I showed him how to get back to 90 with a little lateral adjustment of the plane iron, and he brought it back to square in about 4 or 5 passes. After he joined the boards, we cut them down and glued them up, that is where we are at right now, we have two desk ends, next we'll get the inner dividers joined and glued up. Thanks for reading along, seeya all next time!
  6. Well I did it. I finally pulled the trigger and landed me one of my dreams, one of my bucket list purchases. Yes, this is a tool gloat, and I am anxiously awaiting my new LN No. 51 Shoot Board Plane to arrive in the mail this Tuesday. I was going to wait till I got her in my hands, then gloat, but my gloating is pushing through my brain right now and I need to let is loose or I'll explode. A few years ago I saw and used a beautiful example of a Stanely No. 51 Shooting Board Plane and I have wanted one ever since. The main drawback of course is the price of the old Stanely Shooting Planes range from 800 bucks on up depending on the condition. I have some planes right now that would work as a shooter, but I really want a dedicated set up, in other words, I am spoiling myself. Here is an old Stanely No. 51 going for around $875.00 and that's a great price for it in the great condition it's in! Here is a fine example of a No. 52 with a hard to find Stanley Shooting Board for around $2000.00 The LN No. 51 for $500.00 and I feel it's a better tool as well, finely machined, a nice 9lbs in weight to plow through the grain, and less expensive than the originals. I looked at Veritas, they have a beautiful example of a Shooting Plane as well but I really like the traditional concept of the Stanley that LN produces. Tuesday, will be my big day, when I get home from my day job and see that box sitting in my shop, mama will receive it and she just throws anything I get in the mail on my work bench, I hope she places this one on the bench and not her usual toss. So that's it folks, my big gloat of the year, it's not often we get something new in the old shop, this is special, and I can't wait to make my own shooting board, already have some pretty good plans for them, and a long grain shooting board as well for accurately planing the long edge of boards. So cool! Links Lie Nielsen Shooting Board Plane My original topic on this plane at Thank you for putting up with my gloat.
  7. It's been awhile since I received my LN Shooting Plane, and I finally decided to build a shooting board for this plane. It's basically built from the plans that LN sent me to go with the shooting board, the only thing I really modified was the overall length to fit my arm length and the width of my bench. Parts of the shooting board cut and ready to assemble. I used Baltic Birch for both layers of the board. And also some scrap cherry for the stop block and a piece of walnut for the outer fence. I slotted the outer fence by drilling a series of small holes and then filing to straighten each slot up. Screwed the pieces together to form the main table. Planed one side of the stop block perfectly flat, this will be the edge that any board that I am shooting will rest up against, I am looking for perfection in this surface. Then pre-drilled holes and screwed the stop block at 90° to the table/base. The big holes are the counter sink. I also mounted a stop block at the bottom end of the shooting board, it's the same principle as a bench hook. It'll hook over the edge of my bench and resist the forward force as I plow the plane through the board on up. Right after I installed the slotted outer fence mama came out with a plate of cheese and crackers, just thought I'd include it in the image. Some big Triscets and Gouda, man she must of read my mind, it was perfect. Been married for almost 30 yrs, I guess you could say we know each other pretty good by now. You'll also see to the right of the first board, there is a groove cut about an 1/8" deep, that groove catches dust, dust does build up when cutting end grain. And the theory is it will rest in the groove and not clog up the table. So the first trial board went OK. As you can see the stop block is angled away at the top now, I had my iron set incorrectly, the board end was perfectly square, but there was a bevel on the end. I adjusted the iron and not long I had a perfectly square end board, and not beveled. I really love this shooting plane, and board. In both images top and bottom, the long shavings are from the long grain, I turned the board 90° and shot the long grain, that was handy too. The shorter shavings are the end grain. Thank you for following me along folks in my adventures these days. I had a great time building this, took about and hour an a half, and now I have a pretty nice shooting board. I'll need to cut out some 45° blocks so I can shoot some 45 angles for picture frame joinery, and a "Birdhouse" fixture for shooting flat miters for box making. Cheers!
  8. My next hand plane, I gotta have her. Been collecting Lie Nielsen's over the last 12 years, and it's time now to make a big jump for their No. 51 Shooting Plane. She is absolutely gorgeous. Still eating off the proceeds of my big stationary machinery sell off, and having a blast spending it! Hey, dad don't get this much money very often and I don't know when I'll have it again, it's my turn! No. 51 Shoot Board Plane The Lie-Nielsen Shoot Board Plane is based on the Stanley 51, which was made between 1909 and 1943 and sold with a companion metal shooting board. Our Shoot Board Plane will fit the original Stanley board, but can be used with any type of shooting board. Plans for simple shop-made shooting boards are included with the tool. The skew-set blade can be adjusted for lateral adjustment to allow for angled cuts, such as draft for pattern work. Read more...
  9. From the album: Big Ash Mallet

    I cleaned up the slots with shoulder plane, the slots were heavily kerfed so I used the shoulder plane to knock the kerfs down, not all the way, but just enough to clean it up.
  10. I love these, just thought I'd share it here.
  11. When I laid my rocker on my workbench last weekend I had a chance to become familiar with it. I remember now part of the reason I set aside to begin with was because the moisture content was just too high, the sawyer I purchased the slab from assured me it was in the 6 to 8 percent range but it turned out to be around 12 percent, and I could feel it as I cut into it and machined the parts the inside was very cool to the touch. So since I was in it as far as I was, I completed the cut list, then set it aside, during the last year since I set it aside, the parts moved a bit and the joints do not fit as well. Fortunately the movement was not in the direction that the fit would be destroyed, but some finessing had to be done anyways to get that tight fit that is the "money shot" on these chairs joinery. The first image shows the sloppy joint, rear leg to rear seat joint. You can see the slop, there should be about a 32nd of slop to allow for the expansion of the tongue, so that is fine, but the gap at the top of the tongue where it meets the bottom of the groove, is way too much. You can see the bad fit here as well. and here Very "gappy" indeed. So to fix this, first I re-flattened the bottom of the groove with a medium shoulder plane, shoulder planes come with the blade just a tad narrower then the width of the plane, so you have to flush the side of the blade to the side of the plane you are going to be using against the wall of the groove, then to plane the other side of the groove, you'll need to flatten the blade to the other side of the plane body, I do this by laying the plane on my table saw, loosen the spinwheel below the cap, which in turn loosens the blade, then I let the blade naturally rest flush with the plane body on the flat surface of the saw. This assures the blade is flush with the plane body, then I re-tighten the spinwheel to secure the blade. As shown below. Since I am lacking a proper hand tool work bench (mine is more suitable for assembly) I have to use two bar clamps to hold the irregular shape of the rear legs to my bench in order for me to plane the grooves flat with my shoulder plane. I can work the bottoms leg grooves in this manner. Then I can clamp the leg flat on the bench to work the bottoms of the grooves for the adjacent leg sides. After a couple test fits, it's time to work the face of the joints to re-flatten them and to make them 90 degrees to the chair seat. Remember my material moved over the last year, so things are completely wanky. I had to really look at this before I came to the conclusion on how to fix these joints. I used my low angle jack for this process, I had to take the faces down to close the gap at the joints and to close the gap at the grooves where the groove bottoms meet the seat tongues. In the next image you'll see the sides are now parallel with the seat joint, there is an even gap around the seat joint to rear leg. Since I flattened the joint sides, it changed the radius of the leg, so the joint cannot be closed. I knew this was going to happen, but the most important goal was to get the leg square with the seat joint once again, and I knew I could re-shape the 3/4" radius after. I mounted the 3/4" radius router bit in my table, and made sure the bearing was flush to the fence. I ran a test piece of lumber through the setup and test fit it against the radius of the chair seat, and it was a perfect fit. Then the actual leg was run through. And the fit is perfect. After clamping the legs to the seat, the fit was even better than perfect, it is skin tight. I must admit when I first set my rocker parts on my bench and tested the joints, I was very depressed, it looked like a lost cause at first, but really anything can be fixed, well most things can in the world of woodworking, after I fixed these joints, my day was a good day.
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