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Found 124 results

  1. My sister's Pastor asked if I could make a communion table for their church. In the past, I've made a lectern/pulpit and a kitchen work table. This seemed like it should be an uncomplicated build. The pastor supplied me with his original thoughts and an image- He picked this particular image for it's size/proportions, however, the "arts and craft" style was not his first choice. That style didn't really fit with their church's other furnishings. He said he didn't really want a drawer. He wanted the materials to be maple, walnut and birch to coordinate with other pieces of furniture. My furniture building/designing experience is limited. Some research on the Internet lead me to believe that most all communion table designs lean towards the more massive proportions. When I mentioned this to the Pastor, he agreed but said their church is small and they felt a "lighter" piece would fit into their space. We worked back and forth thru Sketchup making design changes. His original image morphed into more simple, final design- The base will be made from maple, the top from birch ply and the top trim created from walnut. The top trim/banding will overlay the plywood slightly. The pastor supplied a profile of what he wanted- I think I'll start with the trim piece first.
  2. With the base finished, all that was left to do was trim out the top with the walnut edge trim. Glue, clamps and some pin nails. I forgot to take photos of the top to apron mounting system but this Sketchup drawing should explain what I did. These are simple wooden clips with their tabs captured in slots that run around the perimeter of the inside of the aprons. The slot is 1/4" wide by 3/8" deep. The clips are cut from 3/4" thick maple and the tabs sized of a snug fit in the slots. Screws are used to secure the clip to the top. The hole is slightly over-sized and the screws are the type used for pocket holes- nice large heads. The finished table is awaiting pickup- The church members are going to apply the finish. If they send a picture, I'll add it here. Thanks for following along and the very kind comments that have been posted along the way.
  3. The Pastor’s Table or I Think My Sister Is Trying To Buy My Way Into Heaven - (borrowing a title concept from Rocky and Bullwinkle) Part 1: I think my sister believes my past transgression’s slate can be, at least in part, wiped clean by building furniture for the church she attends. The latest installment is a kitchen island/work table for the church’s kitchen. The pastor emailed me a picture of a table he thought would work but wanted something larger and with slightly different construction techniques. Using Sketchup and the free Sketchup viewer, we worked through the major details of the build and ended up with this concept- He chose to use poplar for the frame (which would be painted), soft maple for the two shelves (polyed) and hard maple for the top (oil/bee’s wax). The overall dimensions were 72” long x 30” wide x 36” tall. The top was to be made as a butcher block style using edge grain (rather than end grain) and 1.5” thick. He also wanted the top pieces to be random lengths scattered through the field. We originally thought about 1” “wide” field pieces but then went with approximately 1.5” wide pieces. That reduced the overall number of strips across the top. The legs were a full 4” square glue ups. All of the frame joints are mortice and tenons. The only hardware used was to secure the top to the frame (lag bolts/washers) and the shelves to the stretchers (wood screws/washers). As the build progressed, it became obvious this could be another china cupboard fiasco. The final assembly would have to take place outside of the basement shop. So… if you are up to it, follow along…
  4. Part 2: This build was not going to be particularly difficult. My biggest concern was the maple top. I’ve built smaller edge grain tops before so the process was not unfamiliar; however, the staggered shorter length field pieces had me scratching my head about clamping and gluing. Also, I needed to consider the size of the top versus the capabilities of my shop equipment. My Dewalt 735 planer maxes out at around 13” wide and my little shop made drum sander can only handle very small work. John Moody suggested making the top in several sections and then assembling those sections into the final width. He also suggested using biscuits to aid in aligning the pieces during glue up. Sounded good to me so that’s what I did. I started with 8/4 rough, hard maple. Milled it down into the strips I’d need to build the top. I was really worried about the amount of waste there might. Sometimes thick pieces have a lot of internal stress and can end up looking like a piper cub propeller after they are cut. I got really lucky and almost all of the pieces were nice and straight. I spent several hours sorting, moving and labeling the pieces so there would be less of a chance of a mistake during glue up (not that completely eliminated snafus). I also marked all of the biscuit locations. As John suggested, the biscuits really helped align and keep the strips in place while clamping each section. I also used biscuits on the end joints where the shorter field pieces were joined. Maybe overkill on the clamps but I didn’t want to take any chances. For the field pieces that were made up from shorter lengths, I clamped the pieces end to end. Instead of trying to completely assemble each section at once, I opted to glue on and clamp one strip at a time until the section was finished. It took longer but I had more time to make sure everything was lining up. Working by yourself forces you to think the entire assembly process through thoroughly and sometimes even do a “practice run”. Eventually, I ended up here- All the labels and notes are clearly visible and I transferred some of the markings to the edges/back for reference during the final glue up. It seems like every time I clamp up an assembly like, I end up with a little irregularity on the edges. A quick pass through the jointer trued the edges and then it was on to the planer. 2 Next, the sections were glued together and sized for length. I used a straight edge and skill saw to trim the top to length. I guess I could have used the belt sander to smooth out the sections but I’ve really become a fan of the card scraper. One of our newer member- Todd Clippinger- has a really nice and quick procedure for sharpening card scrapers so you spend more time finishing then trying to produce that elusive “hook”. Originally, the edges of the top were to be square. The minister thought a chamfered edge would look nicer. A simple design change. Router and chamfer bit took care of it. A little more sanding (through 320 grit) and the top is done (except for the oil/wax). It weighed in at around 90 pounds.
  5. Part 3: The work space in my shop is so small that I needed to build this project in stages. With the top finished, it was time to move on to the legs of the base. The entire base frame is made from poplar and the minister is going to paint it white. His specs were for full 4” x 4” legs. I suppose I could have gotten 16/4 poplar boards but those pieces would have been so large and heavy that I don’t think I could have manhandled them through the milling processes. I started with 5/4 boards and milled enough stock for a 4 x 4 glue up. I finished out the planing/ripping the boards a little over sized in thickness and width to allow for shifts in the glue up process. Gluing up the blanks was straight forward Space and number of clamps dictated gluing one leg assembly at a time. Once all of the legs dried, the jointer and planer brought the blanks square and to the correct dimensions. Cutting the legs to length was up next. I opted to use the table saw for this operation. I have a chop saw but it is one of the very early models with a 7.5” blade- it wasn’t going to make the cut in one pass. The table saw wouldn’t make the cut in one pass either but I felt I’d have a little more control using it. I set up my cross cut sled and squared one end of each leg. Next, I added an extend stop block set for the leg length. One pass, roll the blank over, second pass- done. At this point, it was time to layout and cut the mortices in the legs. To make certain the mortices were properly oriented, I labeled everything. Some practice slots with the hollow chisel morticer. Twenty-four mortices later. The minister added the chamfer detail around the top so I thought it would look OK to continue that detail throughout the build. I would have added the chamfer around the leg feet anyway to prevent tear out if the table was slid across the floor. Some sanding left but the legs are finished.
  6. Part 4: With the legs finished, it was time to create the aprons, shelf supports, and stretchers. These were all made from 1” thick poplar. The apron was 5” wide and the remaining pieces were 3” wide. The tenons were all done on the table saw. First establishing the shoulders- I have an old Delta tenoning jig that makes quick work of making the tenon cheek cuts. However, the length of the long aprons and shelf supports exceeded the distance between my table saw and the ceiling. Looks like a job for the dado blade. I used the same setup here, as I did for the shoulder cuts, the rip fence with a “depth stop” and the miter gauge. My table saw is a right tilt model (old Bridgewood) but due to space limitations I had to move the rip fence to the “other side” of the blade to be able to make these cuts. After a couple of adjustments, the tenon thickness was what I was looking for. Now just run all of the pieces for the tenon thickness A blade height adjustment to establish the tenon width. That’ll do Finally, run the pieces, again, to finish the tenons.
  7. Part 5: As “Norm” used to say- “We’re gaining on it now.” Time for the first dry fit to make sure all the mortice and tenons fit together. Had to futz with a few of the tenons but overall everything went together nicely. You can see why I’m limited to the size of my projects. This is the only assembly space available- add clamps around a piece and things really get tight. There were still a few more things left to do with the apron and shelf supports. I wanted to carry the chamfer detail along the bottom of each piece. Router table took care of that. The shelves need to be secured to the frame. I decided to use wooden “clips” and a dado in the stretchers The “clips” are cut from an “L” shaped piece of poplar I made a long blank for the clips and then just cut off about 1 ½” piece. I drilled an oversized screw hole through the thicker section (oversized to allow for expansion/contraction). The thinner part slips into the dado on the back of the stretchers and screws thread into the underside of the shelf. The astute observer will notice the mistake in the pictured blank. The wood grain is running parallel to the blank length. The little tabs (fitted into the dados) will snap off as soon as any pressure is applied. Not sure where my mind was when I cut this, anyway, I made new ones with the grain running perpendicular to the blank length (just forgot to take a picture). The final bit of frame construction was to create a way to mount the butcher block top. The frame (with 2 shelves) will weigh in at close to 100 pounds. If the completed table is moved, lifting it by the top, quite a bit of stress will be applied to the connection between the top and frame. It took me a while to come up with an idea that solved the problem. I added three cross supports that were dovetailed into the side aprons. The dovetailed supports were let into the apron using blind dovetail techniques. I used a trim router to hog out the majority of the materials. Then I chiseled out the remaining material. The dovetail shape, in addition to glue and screws at each dovetail location, will provide enough support to keep the top from breaking free of the frame. Finally, l drilled oversized holes thru the cross supports to receive 1/4" lag bolts to connect the frame to the top. Now to tear it all apart to work on the shelves!
  8. I have been meaning to build a table around my band saw for some time. Tonight was the night. It was hot, but I decided to go into the shop and knock it out. I need to cut up some logs to get the blanks so I can finish the apples that have to be turned. I also got an order last night from the First Friday show for a Chess Board so I need to do some re-sawing. Cut out the table slot and routed the miter slot. Added plywood legs and just clamped it under the table. I made it so I can take it down and store in the corner and not lose a lot of shop floor space. Here with my re-saw jig. Now I have support in the front to start the cut and support in the back so I don't drop it as it goes off the table. Just glad to have this one off my ToDo list. John
  9. Has any of the websites actually taken table saws from each year and done comparisons on prices and performance based on the manufactures specs. Table saws,blades ,etc.....
  10. I've finally decided to make a router table, and incorporate a lift (probably Jessem Rout-R or Mast-R). Most of the prefab router tables I see have the router centered on the table. This would seem too waste a lot of the surface area behind the router bit. What bit clearance do you have on your table, and would moving it back a bit improve the use?
  11. I designed and fabricated a trestle table for our kitchen. The table design was inspired from WOOD magazine Dec/Jan 2014/2015 article. The top is 1-1/8 ” x 36” x 54” made from hard maple wood and having two cherry wood accent pieces. The top has elliptical corners and a thumb nail edge. The base is made from cheery wood and the joinery is primary 1” x 1 ½” x 1 ½” mortise and tenon. The finish applied was one coat of boiled linseed oil and four coats of Sherwin-Williams Sher-Wood Hi-Bold pre-cat lacquer medium rub. A prototype table was build earlier, using poplar wood, to confirm the table size and fabrication/assembly technics. Thanks for looking. Danl
  12. View File Workbench Magazine May-June 1967 Table Tennis A great project for your outdoor patio or indoor game room, don't buy one, build it! Submitter John Morris Submitted 09/08/2019 Category Yard and Outdoors  
  13. Version 1.0.0

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    A great project for your outdoor patio or indoor game room, don't buy one, build it!
  14. View File Workbench Magazine May-June 1967 Tray Table First a generous-size serving tray, then a bed table with short legs that fold down from the underside this versatile unit finally becomes a TV snack table by a quick change of legs. The short legs are fitted in a frame that is held inside the tray by the ingenious use of Tee Nuts and thumbscrews. The projecting screws slip into short lengths of tubing “force-fitted” in holes in the ends of the leg frame. When the long legs are to be used, the thumb-screws are backed out, the frame removed and the legs installed. The screws fit in holes in the upper ends of the legs, and are held by nuts turned against flat washers. Source: Workbench Magazine May-June 1967 Submitter John Morris Submitted 08/26/2019 Category Furnishings  
  15. Version 1.0.0

    0 downloads

    First a generous-size serving tray, then a bed table with short legs that fold down from the underside this versatile unit finally becomes a TV snack table by a quick change of legs. The short legs are fitted in a frame that is held inside the tray by the ingenious use of Tee Nuts and thumbscrews. The projecting screws slip into short lengths of tubing “force-fitted” in holes in the ends of the leg frame. When the long legs are to be used, the thumb-screws are backed out, the frame removed and the legs installed. The screws fit in holes in the upper ends of the legs, and are held by nuts turned against flat washers. Source: Workbench Magazine May-June 1967
  16. I guess it is overdue that I posted some pictures of my builds. Critique is always welcomed, as I like to learn from experience. The most recent piece is this, The Harlequin Table, which is a side table I built for my wife ... The case is Hard Maple from the USA. The drawer fronts are Black Walnut, figured Hard Maple, and pink Jarrah (hence the name, Harlequin). The drawer sides are quartersawn Tasmanian Oak, and the drawer bottoms/slips were made from Tasmanian Blue Gum. Finish was, initially, two coats of dewaxed UBeaut Hard White Shellac (the very faint amber adds a little warmth), followed by three coats of General Finishes water-based poly (this remains clear - does not yellow the maple - and appears to have some UV protection. It is hard wearing, which is necessary for a side table). The build features mitred, rounded dovetails and bow front and back. Eight drawers featuring compound dovetailing to match the bow front. Drawers are traditional half-blind dovetails at the front and through dovetails at the rear, with drawer bottoms into slips. About 2 months to build, mainly on weekends. Here is the rear of the table (which will be seen through the windows, which run floor-to-ceiling along the family room ... The pulls were shaped from what-I-believe-to-be-some-type-of Ebony ... The obligatory dovetails ... Do you think that anyone will notice that the drawer bottoms run sequentially? A last look ... Details of the build are on my website. Scan down this page to Harlequin Table: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/index.html Regards from Perth Derek
  17. Here is the pictures of a library table that my Dad's parents had. It used to be a mission style designed library table. Most of the wood was either split, broken or rotting away. I was able to only save the top and the 4 feet to the table which is the darker wood of the table. The rest I had to rebuild and I even turned the legs to just make the table our own style. We just got the table stained and varnished. We think the table turned out really nice and a usable table again. Sorry I don't have any before pictures. I've lost some pictures somewhere??
  18. Version 1.0.0

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    This is a scanned document of the now defunct Workbench Magazine of this era. Permission was granted by the new Workbench Publication for The Patriot Woodworker community to copy and use the old Workbench Magazine at our pleasure, and for free distribution and re-use.
  19. View File Workbench Magazine March-April 1967 Spanish Style Table This is a scanned document of the now defunct Workbench Magazine of this era. Permission was granted by the new Workbench Publication for The Patriot Woodworker community to copy and use the old Workbench Magazine at our pleasure, and for free distribution and re-use. Submitter John Morris Submitted 05/03/2019 Category Furnishings  
  20. Finished a couple more projects (except the locks) and finally took pictures. This one is a Murphy Bar.
  21. With all the stuff going on, I finally got my Brand New Saw Stop contractor saw all put together. I had it all in my garage for some time in boxes. I had to put it aside as I needed to get all of my tools and stuff out of the tubs and onto some new shelves and get my wife's stuff in order so she can put the car in the garage. So here are a few pics of the new table saw with the mobile base which works really good.
  22. This is my first woodworking project for 2019 and one that I had planned last year, or maybe even 2017. If all goes well this will be a small table fitted for a corner in the upstairs bathroom that we remodeled two years ago. I made the vanity for that remodel, and this table will (hopefully) match and compliment the vanity. I made a cardboard template so that I could get the size I wanted and determine how it might look using some of the scraps left from the remodel. It is approx. 34" across the front and approx. 24" on the sides. Made from red oak, and it will have an oak plywood lower shelf. The progress so far is to glue up the leg blanks, cut and shape them. The pieces for table top have been cut out and glued up. And the top aprons have been glued up. Will likely spend a good bit of today sanding. I may get the top aprons attached. A couple pics showing pieces and parts.
  23. I am not in the market for a router table, I sold mine last fall, don't need one, but I just thought I'd share my amazement with what Shopsmith has available for our machines. I did not know they made a router table, very cool. Anyone own one? @Artie ? http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/catalog/rm_routertable.htm
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