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Found 133 results

  1. A few years ago, my wife wanted a rustic farmhouse table for our dining room. Well after she told me how much they cost, I said, "I'll build you one dear." I didn't really have the time for much woodworking, as I was going to school full time and was managing a dozen construction projects at the hospital. Needless to say I wasn't home much, and when I was, I was too tired to do anything. So, I opted for a very simple construction using dimensional lumber. I didn't even bother to mill any of it, as I'm sure you can see. When it was all said and done however, the wife loved it! Happy wife happy life. Several months later she then asked me to build her a buffet table as well. Again, I went super simple and used dimensional lumber. Glad she likes the "rustic" look. lol
  2. Have had a problem with bandsaw table slipping out of level every time I use it to saw lathe blanks. Have now thought for a while could put a stiffener in to stop this. Finally got to it. Two piece brace as prop and bracket to stop sideways movement. The brace has a slot cut at end to fit the web under table.
  3. My wife has volunteered my services once more. A widow friend is moving into a one bedroom and has a coffee table her late husband made. She wants full length legs so can use as dining table. So I failed to get the pre photo but reconstructed some shots. Started by thinking I would cut the legs short and screw and glue new ones. We I got them cut and decided that would not do. Had to remove the fence board he tacked on with brads and no glue anywhere. Had 8 deck screws 3 inch long in each leg. . Lumber was rough so I planed it down and will round over for comfort. Place the short scrap as a brace and detail piece. Took the tapered scrap and rounded over the end then used a router roundover on edges . You may be able to see the taper I marked on the leg from about 2 inch at bottom and will round over the corners. Now for a question is the wide part of the leg better on the wide rail I have it placed or on the short rail?
  4. I'm building some walnut bedside tables with 24" circular tops. For visual interest...and because it'll be fun... I'd like to use 12 alternating maple and walnut angled segments in a sun burst pattern. Ive gotten far enough to understand that the angles need to be 30°...I think. Do I cut each angle side at 15° ? Please help a mathematically challenged old man. And, muchas gracias!!!
  5. but it's what I have to do without access to stores. I should point out: my wife and I have watched every episode of "The Walking Dead" (well, she watched....I may have slept a little) plus I've seen all the "mad Max" movies. The point is we know how to survive in an apocalypse! So with that in mind I managed to build my cabinets for my assembly table to sit on. I was able to cut up some stuff I had made that was no longer used, and scrounged some pieces out of my stash that completed. This isn't the way I would do it normally...but, hey; these ain't normal times. So the carcass is mostly made up from the 3/4" ply stand my old table sat on, along with some 1/2" ply from a shelf unit that I had to cut up. The drawers are made of 3/4" ply sides (out of my stash) and hardboard bottoms. The hardboard would have been the sacrificial top for the assembly table before you'all changed my mind about needing it. The knobs have been in the shop for a while and came off our old kitchen cabinets from the remodel we did a couple of years ago. If this crisis ever ends I'll buy some wood to make drawer fronts. I should point out: I used Glide Right slides for the drawers. Gunny had mentioned them here a month or so ago, and I had seen another endorsement elsewhere so decided to try them out. Normally I would have ordered KV 8400 series, my go-to slide. Not any more, these glide right slides (from Amazon) are really nice and about 1/2 the cost of the KVs. These are the largest drawers I've ever made, 35' wide and 24" deep. They are amazing stiff, so I'm not worried about loading them down. All this, and people laughed when I watched the "Walking Dead".....well: who's laughing now! (Don't answer that!)
  6. Still have a few of Ash, to use up. Thought I could do something with....I had two other 3/4" x 6" x 54" flat sawn Ash boards, and brought them to the shop. Very wavy edges, set up the rip fence a few times...to remove the worst of the waves, cut out a few of the worst knots....while doing all this saw work...had a cut off fly back at me... I think the T-shirt took most of the hit.....yep, that will leave a mark.. Got 3 blanks ready for a glue up....just under 22" long, to make a panel 14" wide.. Glue clamps and cauls... Wonder which face will be the "show" face? There is still 3 boards upstairs, can be glued up into leg blanks....thinking this one will be a drawer front... And maybe some aprons? Right now, letting the glue cure, and me heal up.... Stay tuned
  7. I took my wife to work this morning because of the freezing rain. On the way back I noticed a double oak pedistal and top on the side with the trash cans as its trash day. The trash truck usually s there just before dawn but with the sleet and rain they may not be out at all today. Anyway I went home thought about it as it was around the corner from my house and stated the truck. Went inside and paced. Took an ice scraper too the truck. Can't get it with a dolly as the sidewalks are cover in ice and slick. Got my truck up there and it's still there. There are a lot of people who drive around at night just looking for old furniture,etc for there yard sales,etc It's there... about busted my butt trying to get it loaded and sliding the truck around on the slick street wasn't fun either.
  8. The final major part of the assembly is the table. The piece of ¾” Melamine is from the scrap box at the local Vocational School and the piano hinges are pieces left from a project made for my brother in law. The top is reinforced with a frame of ¾” plywood on three sides and a 1” piece of oak on the hinge side. (top and bottom w hinge) The hinge is then screwed to a mounting/adjusting bracket that fits between the two sides of the frame. A slotted hole in each side of the bracket allows for vertical adjustments to assure the table is parallel to the drum. Although not shown, the backs of the slotted piece are covered with PSA sand paper to help prevent slipping during adjustment. The bolts are tightened securely once the table/drum alignment is achieved. (table mount, bracket top, mounting bolt) The opposite end of the table (front of the sander) in screwed to the top of the lift mechanism with countersunk screws Had to buy 2 carriage bolts and nuts.
  9. My sister's Pastor asked if I could make a communion table for their church. In the past, I've made a lectern/pulpit and a kitchen work table. This seemed like it should be an uncomplicated build. The pastor supplied me with his original thoughts and an image- He picked this particular image for it's size/proportions, however, the "arts and craft" style was not his first choice. That style didn't really fit with their church's other furnishings. He said he didn't really want a drawer. He wanted the materials to be maple, walnut and birch to coordinate with other pieces of furniture. My furniture building/designing experience is limited. Some research on the Internet lead me to believe that most all communion table designs lean towards the more massive proportions. When I mentioned this to the Pastor, he agreed but said their church is small and they felt a "lighter" piece would fit into their space. We worked back and forth thru Sketchup making design changes. His original image morphed into more simple, final design- The base will be made from maple, the top from birch ply and the top trim created from walnut. The top trim/banding will overlay the plywood slightly. The pastor supplied a profile of what he wanted- I think I'll start with the trim piece first.
  10. With the base finished, all that was left to do was trim out the top with the walnut edge trim. Glue, clamps and some pin nails. I forgot to take photos of the top to apron mounting system but this Sketchup drawing should explain what I did. These are simple wooden clips with their tabs captured in slots that run around the perimeter of the inside of the aprons. The slot is 1/4" wide by 3/8" deep. The clips are cut from 3/4" thick maple and the tabs sized of a snug fit in the slots. Screws are used to secure the clip to the top. The hole is slightly over-sized and the screws are the type used for pocket holes- nice large heads. The finished table is awaiting pickup- The church members are going to apply the finish. If they send a picture, I'll add it here. Thanks for following along and the very kind comments that have been posted along the way.
  11. The Pastor’s Table or I Think My Sister Is Trying To Buy My Way Into Heaven - (borrowing a title concept from Rocky and Bullwinkle) Part 1: I think my sister believes my past transgression’s slate can be, at least in part, wiped clean by building furniture for the church she attends. The latest installment is a kitchen island/work table for the church’s kitchen. The pastor emailed me a picture of a table he thought would work but wanted something larger and with slightly different construction techniques. Using Sketchup and the free Sketchup viewer, we worked through the major details of the build and ended up with this concept- He chose to use poplar for the frame (which would be painted), soft maple for the two shelves (polyed) and hard maple for the top (oil/bee’s wax). The overall dimensions were 72” long x 30” wide x 36” tall. The top was to be made as a butcher block style using edge grain (rather than end grain) and 1.5” thick. He also wanted the top pieces to be random lengths scattered through the field. We originally thought about 1” “wide” field pieces but then went with approximately 1.5” wide pieces. That reduced the overall number of strips across the top. The legs were a full 4” square glue ups. All of the frame joints are mortice and tenons. The only hardware used was to secure the top to the frame (lag bolts/washers) and the shelves to the stretchers (wood screws/washers). As the build progressed, it became obvious this could be another china cupboard fiasco. The final assembly would have to take place outside of the basement shop. So… if you are up to it, follow along…
  12. Part 2: This build was not going to be particularly difficult. My biggest concern was the maple top. I’ve built smaller edge grain tops before so the process was not unfamiliar; however, the staggered shorter length field pieces had me scratching my head about clamping and gluing. Also, I needed to consider the size of the top versus the capabilities of my shop equipment. My Dewalt 735 planer maxes out at around 13” wide and my little shop made drum sander can only handle very small work. John Moody suggested making the top in several sections and then assembling those sections into the final width. He also suggested using biscuits to aid in aligning the pieces during glue up. Sounded good to me so that’s what I did. I started with 8/4 rough, hard maple. Milled it down into the strips I’d need to build the top. I was really worried about the amount of waste there might. Sometimes thick pieces have a lot of internal stress and can end up looking like a piper cub propeller after they are cut. I got really lucky and almost all of the pieces were nice and straight. I spent several hours sorting, moving and labeling the pieces so there would be less of a chance of a mistake during glue up (not that completely eliminated snafus). I also marked all of the biscuit locations. As John suggested, the biscuits really helped align and keep the strips in place while clamping each section. I also used biscuits on the end joints where the shorter field pieces were joined. Maybe overkill on the clamps but I didn’t want to take any chances. For the field pieces that were made up from shorter lengths, I clamped the pieces end to end. Instead of trying to completely assemble each section at once, I opted to glue on and clamp one strip at a time until the section was finished. It took longer but I had more time to make sure everything was lining up. Working by yourself forces you to think the entire assembly process through thoroughly and sometimes even do a “practice run”. Eventually, I ended up here- All the labels and notes are clearly visible and I transferred some of the markings to the edges/back for reference during the final glue up. It seems like every time I clamp up an assembly like, I end up with a little irregularity on the edges. A quick pass through the jointer trued the edges and then it was on to the planer. 2 Next, the sections were glued together and sized for length. I used a straight edge and skill saw to trim the top to length. I guess I could have used the belt sander to smooth out the sections but I’ve really become a fan of the card scraper. One of our newer member- Todd Clippinger- has a really nice and quick procedure for sharpening card scrapers so you spend more time finishing then trying to produce that elusive “hook”. Originally, the edges of the top were to be square. The minister thought a chamfered edge would look nicer. A simple design change. Router and chamfer bit took care of it. A little more sanding (through 320 grit) and the top is done (except for the oil/wax). It weighed in at around 90 pounds.
  13. Part 3: The work space in my shop is so small that I needed to build this project in stages. With the top finished, it was time to move on to the legs of the base. The entire base frame is made from poplar and the minister is going to paint it white. His specs were for full 4” x 4” legs. I suppose I could have gotten 16/4 poplar boards but those pieces would have been so large and heavy that I don’t think I could have manhandled them through the milling processes. I started with 5/4 boards and milled enough stock for a 4 x 4 glue up. I finished out the planing/ripping the boards a little over sized in thickness and width to allow for shifts in the glue up process. Gluing up the blanks was straight forward Space and number of clamps dictated gluing one leg assembly at a time. Once all of the legs dried, the jointer and planer brought the blanks square and to the correct dimensions. Cutting the legs to length was up next. I opted to use the table saw for this operation. I have a chop saw but it is one of the very early models with a 7.5” blade- it wasn’t going to make the cut in one pass. The table saw wouldn’t make the cut in one pass either but I felt I’d have a little more control using it. I set up my cross cut sled and squared one end of each leg. Next, I added an extend stop block set for the leg length. One pass, roll the blank over, second pass- done. At this point, it was time to layout and cut the mortices in the legs. To make certain the mortices were properly oriented, I labeled everything. Some practice slots with the hollow chisel morticer. Twenty-four mortices later. The minister added the chamfer detail around the top so I thought it would look OK to continue that detail throughout the build. I would have added the chamfer around the leg feet anyway to prevent tear out if the table was slid across the floor. Some sanding left but the legs are finished.
  14. Part 4: With the legs finished, it was time to create the aprons, shelf supports, and stretchers. These were all made from 1” thick poplar. The apron was 5” wide and the remaining pieces were 3” wide. The tenons were all done on the table saw. First establishing the shoulders- I have an old Delta tenoning jig that makes quick work of making the tenon cheek cuts. However, the length of the long aprons and shelf supports exceeded the distance between my table saw and the ceiling. Looks like a job for the dado blade. I used the same setup here, as I did for the shoulder cuts, the rip fence with a “depth stop” and the miter gauge. My table saw is a right tilt model (old Bridgewood) but due to space limitations I had to move the rip fence to the “other side” of the blade to be able to make these cuts. After a couple of adjustments, the tenon thickness was what I was looking for. Now just run all of the pieces for the tenon thickness A blade height adjustment to establish the tenon width. That’ll do Finally, run the pieces, again, to finish the tenons.
  15. Part 5: As “Norm” used to say- “We’re gaining on it now.” Time for the first dry fit to make sure all the mortice and tenons fit together. Had to futz with a few of the tenons but overall everything went together nicely. You can see why I’m limited to the size of my projects. This is the only assembly space available- add clamps around a piece and things really get tight. There were still a few more things left to do with the apron and shelf supports. I wanted to carry the chamfer detail along the bottom of each piece. Router table took care of that. The shelves need to be secured to the frame. I decided to use wooden “clips” and a dado in the stretchers The “clips” are cut from an “L” shaped piece of poplar I made a long blank for the clips and then just cut off about 1 ½” piece. I drilled an oversized screw hole through the thicker section (oversized to allow for expansion/contraction). The thinner part slips into the dado on the back of the stretchers and screws thread into the underside of the shelf. The astute observer will notice the mistake in the pictured blank. The wood grain is running parallel to the blank length. The little tabs (fitted into the dados) will snap off as soon as any pressure is applied. Not sure where my mind was when I cut this, anyway, I made new ones with the grain running perpendicular to the blank length (just forgot to take a picture). The final bit of frame construction was to create a way to mount the butcher block top. The frame (with 2 shelves) will weigh in at close to 100 pounds. If the completed table is moved, lifting it by the top, quite a bit of stress will be applied to the connection between the top and frame. It took me a while to come up with an idea that solved the problem. I added three cross supports that were dovetailed into the side aprons. The dovetailed supports were let into the apron using blind dovetail techniques. I used a trim router to hog out the majority of the materials. Then I chiseled out the remaining material. The dovetail shape, in addition to glue and screws at each dovetail location, will provide enough support to keep the top from breaking free of the frame. Finally, l drilled oversized holes thru the cross supports to receive 1/4" lag bolts to connect the frame to the top. Now to tear it all apart to work on the shelves!
  16. I have been meaning to build a table around my band saw for some time. Tonight was the night. It was hot, but I decided to go into the shop and knock it out. I need to cut up some logs to get the blanks so I can finish the apples that have to be turned. I also got an order last night from the First Friday show for a Chess Board so I need to do some re-sawing. Cut out the table slot and routed the miter slot. Added plywood legs and just clamped it under the table. I made it so I can take it down and store in the corner and not lose a lot of shop floor space. Here with my re-saw jig. Now I have support in the front to start the cut and support in the back so I don't drop it as it goes off the table. Just glad to have this one off my ToDo list. John
  17. Has any of the websites actually taken table saws from each year and done comparisons on prices and performance based on the manufactures specs. Table saws,blades ,etc.....
  18. I've finally decided to make a router table, and incorporate a lift (probably Jessem Rout-R or Mast-R). Most of the prefab router tables I see have the router centered on the table. This would seem too waste a lot of the surface area behind the router bit. What bit clearance do you have on your table, and would moving it back a bit improve the use?
  19. I designed and fabricated a trestle table for our kitchen. The table design was inspired from WOOD magazine Dec/Jan 2014/2015 article. The top is 1-1/8 ” x 36” x 54” made from hard maple wood and having two cherry wood accent pieces. The top has elliptical corners and a thumb nail edge. The base is made from cheery wood and the joinery is primary 1” x 1 ½” x 1 ½” mortise and tenon. The finish applied was one coat of boiled linseed oil and four coats of Sherwin-Williams Sher-Wood Hi-Bold pre-cat lacquer medium rub. A prototype table was build earlier, using poplar wood, to confirm the table size and fabrication/assembly technics. Thanks for looking. Danl
  20. View File Workbench Magazine May-June 1967 Table Tennis A great project for your outdoor patio or indoor game room, don't buy one, build it! Submitter John Morris Submitted 09/08/2019 Category Yard and Outdoors  
  21. Version 1.0.0

    1 download

    A great project for your outdoor patio or indoor game room, don't buy one, build it!
  22. View File Workbench Magazine May-June 1967 Tray Table First a generous-size serving tray, then a bed table with short legs that fold down from the underside this versatile unit finally becomes a TV snack table by a quick change of legs. The short legs are fitted in a frame that is held inside the tray by the ingenious use of Tee Nuts and thumbscrews. The projecting screws slip into short lengths of tubing “force-fitted” in holes in the ends of the leg frame. When the long legs are to be used, the thumb-screws are backed out, the frame removed and the legs installed. The screws fit in holes in the upper ends of the legs, and are held by nuts turned against flat washers. Source: Workbench Magazine May-June 1967 Submitter John Morris Submitted 08/26/2019 Category Furnishings  
  23. Version 1.0.0

    3 downloads

    First a generous-size serving tray, then a bed table with short legs that fold down from the underside this versatile unit finally becomes a TV snack table by a quick change of legs. The short legs are fitted in a frame that is held inside the tray by the ingenious use of Tee Nuts and thumbscrews. The projecting screws slip into short lengths of tubing “force-fitted” in holes in the ends of the leg frame. When the long legs are to be used, the thumb-screws are backed out, the frame removed and the legs installed. The screws fit in holes in the upper ends of the legs, and are held by nuts turned against flat washers. Source: Workbench Magazine May-June 1967
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