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Found 12 results

  1. My sister, bless her, likes to dig into antique stores, finding various cast-offs for her crafting projects. For Christmas she found me an old handplane, something I'd been thinking of for some time. Encouraged by my reaction to that, she kept digging and somewhere in Outer Arizona came up with 3.6 more handplanes. I wanted one, the original one, the one I spent inordinate amounts of time restoring. But one's my limit. So, what I have in surplus right now is: Stanly 78 (rabbet) missing fence and stop (getting the missing parts might cost most of a new 78) Stanley 220 (block) Stanley 220 missing front knob and blade adjuster Penncraft 9529 (block) So here's the deal: 1. FCFS (first come....) 2. All or none (don't get picky!) 3. Preference to someone willing to just show up at the front door and take them away. 4. Goodwill (who will wonder what the heck they are!!) 5. FREE (not a word often heard in this context!) The clock is ticking. Sun Lakes, AZ
  2. Behind getting the preliminary pictures posted. During the Covered Bridge Festival I managed to rescue these treasures from the scrap heap. Last thing I needed was another block plane or pieces parts BUT... Top is a Stanley Defiance pattern/model-maker block plane; almost a clone of the Stanley 102. I suspect this is one of the last ones made which was mid 1952. Lower left, remnants of a Stanley 220; middle, remnants of another Stanley similar to the 220 but a tad shorter. Far right, Craftsman 619.3704, adjustable throat. Soles need some work...In-process on the Defiance & Craftsman to at least remove the rust and preserve until spring and warmer weather. Defiance was marked $12; paid $6...other than the color, it's nearly identical to the Stanley 102 I have. One big difference is the iron; the edges along the sides have a radius versus square edge; The (3) on the right were in a bag marked $10; paid $5...I really only wanted the Craftsman and it was complete; other two...well...the adjustment knobs just spoke to me... You can see the two Stanley's have been dropped; The top one is missing the iron, the knob and the cap lever; The middle one is complete except the big chunk missing; It has a pretty decent iron; I'll stash all back as parts donors for now; The Craftsman is complete; The iron will need some TLC to bring back but does not appear to have ever been sharpened. It has a riveted lateral adjustment lever and the cap was originally nickel plated as was the throat lock knob and blade adjustment knob. It'll take some work, but I think it will clean up pretty decent. Thanks for looking...
  3. John Morris

    Back Slats

    From the album: Shaker Furniture

    Once shaped each back slat separately I then ganged them up and did a few more passes with my shave and block plane, to get them all to even height and shape.
  4. I had a little fun in the shop this morning. Soon I'll be firing up some chairs to build, and right now I am kind of jigging up and tooling up for this big project. Besides the jigs my son and I have been working on, today I got in the shop and made one complete mallet, and I have a couple more in the wings that need to be made as well. Before I took these images I had already made my layout lines and cut the mallet handle slots on my table saw. I simply set my table saw t-slot miter to 4 degrees and cut the slots in from one side then I set it at 4 degrees the other way and cut the other slot in the other side, then I hogged it out with several passes over the table saw blade. My 12" blades have 1/4" wide teeth so it didn't take long to hog the slots out. I laid out 3 mallets and gang sawed them. I cleaned up the slots with shoulder plane, the slots were heavily kerfed so I used the shoulder plane to knock the kerfs down, not all the way, but just enough to clean it up. I cut my lay out lines to produce the mallet blank halves. The key angle here is 5 degrees on the face. This allows your mallet to be used flush on a bench without your knuckles hitting the bench top but at the same time to have a sweet spot at the arc of your swing or tapping. Blanks ready to be glued up The handles are just dry fit into the slots. To get a great fit I had to sneak up on the handle widths, as not all handle slots in each mallet were the same as the next, because I cut these on the table saw without any jigs, just eyeballing lines is all. So each mallet was a tad different. I had to plane each handle to fit each slot right. I'll have a better assembly process next time, I plan on making many of these and pass them out as gifts and possibly sell them as well. A dry fit looking at the top of the mallet, the slot is tapered, so the bottom is tight and snug, the top is flared out leaving room for the wedges to secure the mallet. When I do these again I'll cut the slots so there is not much of a flare out at the top, it's really not needed. I think a 2 degree slot flare would suffice next time instead of the 4 degree. Lots of glue in around the handle, and on the wedges, I wanted the entire slot filled with either wood or glue, securing it for life. I tapped the outer wedges in just a tad, and I drove home the two center wedges pretty hard. Keep in mind, if you make a mallet, the wedges must be tapped in perpendicular to the grain to avoid splitting the wood. Cleaned up the glue a tad I used my bow arc to make the arc on the top of the mallet. Was an arc needed? No, but the mallet looks better with some shape to it. The arc All the edges of the mallet were chamfered with my block plane and the handle of the mallet of was shaped using my draw knife and a card scraper. The finished mallet at the right, and my two roughs waiting in the wings on the left. I put a very heavy coat of Watco Danish Oil on and wiped off. Here is a fun picture showing the hand tools I used to help make this mallet, it took a combination of my table saw to make the slots, the shoulder plane to clean up the slots, the miter saw to cut the blanks at 5 degrees, and my hand tools to shape and make it interesting. It's hard to see, but the chamfers I put into the handle and the edges of the head, are less than perfect, but that's alright, it's a mallet! The most difficult part was shaping the handle with my draw knife, ash is so brittle and grainy, it shapes horribly with hand tools, so I had to follow up my draw knifed handle with a card scraper. I'll be finishing the other two tomorrow. The main reason I built this mallet was for my chairs, I can't use a regular steel hammer without leaving marks, and a rubber mallet bounces too much. I already gave this mallet a test drive and I also used it on some chisels, I love it. I did not use any plans, I just read up on the required angle of the face of the mallet, and made my mallet thicker than the average. Most mallets I looked at were in the 2 3/4" thickness range, I made mine at 3 1/4", and I am glad I did, it has a nice big face. Thanks for following along!
  5. Marked out where I did NOT want rounded over ( in theory, best laid battle plan?) I wasn't to go past that line on the long sides. Short sides I could plane all day long.. Main tool for this sort of thing was just a block plane. Wasn't trying for a perfect half circle, just enough to "break" the edges. I also planed a bit on the bottom of each part.. As there was a few rough spots. Got the two ends done. Tried to plane the longer ones And forgot what that pencil line was for...ooops. Jointed the edge, re-marked the line with a chisel. Needed a better tool to do the stop cuts.. A spokeshave would do the trick. The chisel and mallet made a better mark to work to. A little better? Flipped the part over, jointed the other side. Got both long sides all planed....might as well find a bunch of clamps, and some Elmer's Think I have enough clamps? Somewhere in there, the lid is glued up. let it sit overnight. Found a small packet in the tool well... Brass hinges. Still had the ACE price tag on them. Might give them a try later. About all I can do for a day...always tomorrow, no rush.
  6. John Morris

    Chamfering the Edges

    From the album: Big Ash Mallet

    All the edges of the mallet were chamfered with my block plane and the handle of the mallet of was shaped using my draw knife and a card scraper.
  7. Or.......just drive over to the place, and pick it up? 20 minute drive, on a sunny morning? Went over to a little town called Mount Victory, OH ( lots of antique stores, if you can catch them opened)to pick up two items I won on FeeBay.. Maybe a 20 mile long drive. Farm house and barns were back a LONG (3/4 of a mile!) lane that had more potholes than the city of Bellefontaine. The two items I picked up? Stanley 9-1/2 and a spokeshave from Seymour Smith & Son Rather a bit newer one. got them both cleaned up.. The "model number" was stamped into the iron, on both faces... S. Smith & Son was stamped into the blade. Both cleaned up nicely. Gives me 10 block planes ( for now) and these three things Stanley #64, and a mystery spokeshave, and the $12 newbie. Block was $4, total was $16 + Ohio Sales Tax....Just to save almost $15 in shipping.....
  8. Bag it came in had a few holes in it. And what was inside was covered in bubble wrap.....with not a scratch on it.. Sears 107-37031 block plane. just a tad rusty....sides were unfinished and very rough. Sole wasn't too hateful... It did have a Cocobolo knob out in front.. Note the time stamp. Time to get this thing cleaned up, before Supper? Might be a bit better? The nickle plating was just flaking off, Cleaned the rest off. Those rough, painted sides were sanded down a bit. Wiped the grime off the knob. Sole is now cleaned up, and as flat as needed, for a block plane. iron has been rehabbed a bit. it even makes a shaving or two.. So, under all that rust and paint? Meet the Millers Falls No.75 Their version of a Stanley No.220 $9 with free shipping got this thing into the shop. that front knob is full of black and red stripes, Cocobolo wood for a knob. Fancy....
  9. and very little got done. Brought two 1 x 10 pine boards to the shop, since they were stored against the wall of the house. Cut them to a length needed. Ripped one right down the middle. Ripped just over 5" out of the second board. Used a jointah plane to ease an edge or two And the chest now has a bottom. Screwed to the cleats along the outside edges. Center plank is just held by a pair of screws, one on each end. Had the box clamped to the bench for a little clean up Well I used this to clean up after a belt sander leveled things a bit. Then a block plane for some detail work.....Then set up a drill press with a special bit Cuts a tapered plug. Chunk of scrap wood is Black Walnut. I used a screwdriver tip to pop the plugs out.A littlte glue into the counter bore, and bang a plug home. Later, after the glue has set for awhile, a block plane to trim these down Lets see, seven to a corner, and there are four such corners,, might take a bit. BTW: Beltsander don't work very well trimming the plugs down. Gouges the wood, and burns the plug. Just about any sharp plane will do. Stay tuned....
  10. That came out of Southern Cal. Seems about five block planes were hiding in there... with a very OLD Stanley 9-1/2 leading the way. Took a few days to refurbish all five of these, two days actually. Things as simple as removing all the rust and grime. Have a H-F drill press set up for this sort of thing along with a few other brass wire brushes. Paint brush with a wee bit of 3in1 Oil on it, to scrub away the grime. Sharpened all but ONE iron. It was just too short to do. Set up a test track of White Oak. The old 9-1/2 decided not to do a test drive. Pin to advance the short iron was too worn down, anyway, next, the "other" 9-1/2 Quite a bit newer, and it did make a shaving or two. Next, a Stanley 9-1/4 Stanley made this to look like the 9-1/2s but these did not have the adjustable mouth. I use a 1" x 30" beltsander to get an edge close to sharp, then an oil stone, then some 2500 grit to polish. Next was a Stanley #220 These used a screw to advance/retract the sharp edge. These are also about an inch longer than the 9s were. Finally in this line up. This is a Buck Brothers #110 wannabe. The sides were painted a gray colour. Went to remove the paint on the belt sander......found pot metal! Ok, ground the sole flat as well, and gave the sides and sole a good, mirror like polish. Sharpen the iron up, and test drive it a bit I guess SHARP is everything. Sides aren't too hateful, either And now the "after shot" of the Parade Not too bad? Well, stay tuned, as there are a few more planes in that LARGE box of goodies...
  11. Had a large are on the new plane till without a plane on it. Decided to add a few more to the till. Used some more of the cap molding to make some dividers. Made sure to keep things a bit tight, no wiggle room allowed. Added a #3 and a #4 smooth plane, and a few block planes. There is a fourth block plane, but it hides in it's own box. A better view of the crowded till Yes, there is still a couple open spots. Trying to figure out where to place this Stanley SW #70 Whether to hang it on a hook on the side, or drill a hole to stick that "Billie Club" of a handle through? The wood bodied ones can reside in the tool chests. Need to find a better way to store these old drills, too Maybe build a rack of some sort?
  12. Rust Hunting today, so not too much was done on the Pine Table. All the legs have eight "flats" four at the top, and four near the feet, mostly rough sawn, too. Clamped each leg up, and smoothed each flat, using the Little Guys The low angle one mostly. The square areas on each leg, like where an apron will go, were smoothed out. Do one side, release the vise, rotate, and repeat. The Knuckle cap was used a few times, as well. Nice change of pace from them big old Jack planes. A Wards #78 had snuck out of the Tool Chest, too. The one in back of the crowd. That orange thing is the Handyman after a clean up. But why the 78? Well I clamp an apron blank to the bench top. Set the fence and depth stop on the 78 and run it back and forth a few times. Then use the VIXEN rasp to clean up a finished tenon. Takes longer to clamp it up, than the make one. Might get the long aprons done tomorrow? We'll see...
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