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Found 92 results

  1. I've been wanting to try my hand at greenwood carving, particularly spoon carving. I decided that, to give myself every chance to succeed, I would need a bench dedicated to carving. I checked youtube, carving forums, etc and decided that a log mule/carving bench would fit the bill. It just so happened that my mother, last week, had asked me to remove some downed trees from her yard. Enter this weekend's project. First, stripping the bark from an oak log....... Then, it's time to cut the legs to size......... And then, the shaping begins. Doing this with hand tools only is quite a challenge (a Poulan is a hand tool, right?) And thus, ends the first day of work on the mule/bench.
  2. My next plane will probably be a smoothing plane, not right away, but hopefully not too far in the future. I was looking at the Lie-Nielsen web site, and I noticed that their No. 4 Smoothing Plane is offered in both a bronze and an iron body version. The bronze was $50 more. So is there any advantage to bronze? And if so, is that advantage of any significance to a hobbyist like me?
  3. "It followed me home, can I keep it?" When last seen, this was screw to an Oak plank, and hung as a coat hook....tag said "Dowel Cutter" $32.50 Plus sales tax. Got rid of the plank,....meh.. Had some issues going on....Got rid of the "coat hooks" , easy-out the broken bolt. Ordered the depth adjuster wheel ( $20, ebay) and cleaned things up a bit.. Easy-out wasn't....iron needs a lot of work.. Sole is flat, and cleaned up.. Tool drawer, I needed a wrench, and a tap.. 1/4" x 20. Have since bought a new thumbscrew at Lowes....1/4" x 20 x 3/4" long. will need to grind a point on it's end. About them handles? had some "spare" knobs, with bolts, had to find 2 that looked like they matched each other... Close enough? Plane is a Stanley No. 71-1/2, patent date is 10-29-01.....1901, that is. Think I can keep it?
  4. Well I did it. I finally pulled the trigger and landed me one of my dreams, one of my bucket list purchases. Yes, this is a tool gloat, and I am anxiously awaiting my new LN No. 51 Shoot Board Plane to arrive in the mail this Tuesday. I was going to wait till I got her in my hands, then gloat, but my gloating is pushing through my brain right now and I need to let is loose or I'll explode. A few years ago I saw and used a beautiful example of a Stanely No. 51 Shooting Board Plane and I have wanted one ever since. The main drawback of course is the price of the old Stanely Shooting Planes range from 800 bucks on up depending on the condition. I have some planes right now that would work as a shooter, but I really want a dedicated set up, in other words, I am spoiling myself. Here is an old Stanely No. 51 going for around $875.00 and that's a great price for it in the great condition it's in! Here is a fine example of a No. 52 with a hard to find Stanley Shooting Board for around $2000.00 The LN No. 51 for $500.00 and I feel it's a better tool as well, finely machined, a nice 9lbs in weight to plow through the grain, and less expensive than the originals. I looked at Veritas, they have a beautiful example of a Shooting Plane as well but I really like the traditional concept of the Stanley that LN produces. Tuesday, will be my big day, when I get home from my day job and see that box sitting in my shop, mama will receive it and she just throws anything I get in the mail on my work bench, I hope she places this one on the bench and not her usual toss. So that's it folks, my big gloat of the year, it's not often we get something new in the old shop, this is special, and I can't wait to make my own shooting board, already have some pretty good plans for them, and a long grain shooting board as well for accurately planing the long edge of boards. So cool! Links Lie Nielsen Shooting Board Plane My original topic on this plane at Thank you for putting up with my gloat.
  5. My new years yard ornament is started... I want a model airplane. I had a big gas engine collection (over 3000) Sold most of them. I still have a few hundred. Got to do something with them. I got the prop made. Next is the body. The engine is a twin Maytag.
  6. I am trying to identify a plane I inherited from my Dad when he passed. The part on which the frog sits (is this called a boss?) is H shaped and has C 74 1/2 stamped on it. There is a 2 stamped in the base by the heel. A U is stamped on the frog on top and in the front, down close to the base. Made in USA in on the top of the base by the knob, and also on the iron. No markings on the cap iron. The sole is 14" long, with a 2" mouth. The only brass component appears to be the machine screw holding the tote to the base. The sole misses being square to the sides by maybe 1/32", but is flat along its' length, so if I am not using it on a shooting board, is this really an issue? I thought at first it might be an older Stanley, but my research indicated that the 74 was a floor plane, the only one they made for planing floors, with no mention of a 74 1/2, and actually nothing with a preceding C. Now I am thinking it is a cheaper brand that used a knock-off of the Stanley numbering system. Posting pictures now.
  7. Got this in the mail today, luck of the draw in the lottery from our Annual Fundraiser. Not being a hand plane guy for a long time I confess I only have ever had a cheap HF special. Never had an interest till I returned from Iraq but the pins in my wrist really did not like the activity of planning. Late last year I met a customer that also had same problem and he gave me a hands on tutorial of the ins and outs of holding the plane so it doesn't aggravate my injury. Okay, so I tried it at home and have been playing with the thing getting it tuned in and all. It makes nice ribbons, which I am told is unusual for a HF special, but hey miracles happen I guess. So I opened the box and took this Wood River Block Plane apart and got acquainted with all the parts, tuned up the blade a hair and back together it went. Makes some nice shavings. Did research last week on this particular plane and found out it's common uses, and what not to try. Impressive little guy. Thanks to the folks at Wood River for the prize, it will get used and if I get decent at using these things I might have to upgrade the HF special. Budget permitting.
  8. Guys, I need to improve the quality of blade for my Stanley #7, I've tried everything to fix the cap iron re-beveled it sharpened to not allow any light thru but the chips still get in between. Thinking of getting a set of Hock pieces was looking for input or/and a good place to buy. Best price quick shipping and so on. Thanks Pat
  9. Ok....downtime IN the shop....taking a short vacation from woodworking projects, for now. Bench was cleared off, planed flat Even a coat of shellac on the bare wood. The plane lying on the bench came from the Wapak Gathering....came home in a pink plastic tub. i thought maybe I could clean it up a bit...and see IF I can make it a little bit better than a junker plane. "Whale Tail" Stanley Defiance. Made between 1955 and 1962....when Stanley crimped the lateral lever down tighter.. Named because it looks like the south end of a north bound whale. Rear handle....may see about rounding it over a little bit better. Hmmm, yeah...need to clean under the hood, looks like? Get the frog to seat better. Flatten the face of the frog, so the iron fits better...the "hood"? Clean the lever cap from this plane, and a spare cap I had on hand. Stanley on the right, Millers Falls Mohawk-Shelburne on the left. Stanley had a big chip-out missing along the leading edge..dead-center....it will still work, but..I also ground things back to remove the chip-out....reason the Millers falls one MIGHT get used? Because it has that piece of spring steel. Keeps the lever from digging into the chipbreaker. The Stanley one never had it, made for a cheaper part..but also a looser fit.. Somehow, I don't think this is the OEM bolt.....I don't had the correct one in the spares box....will work on this thing.. And work on this side, as well...grinder was fired up, again.. The reason these bolts have a flat head? There is a "well" in the frog, where the bolt usually sits...not a whole lot of room in there, either. Too tall of a bolt, and the iron can rock side to side. As for the other side.. Ground flush. These bolts protrude up under the lever cap....again, too tall and things can rock and wiggle.... Stamped as a Defiance, Made in USA. Will work on a sharpening, later... Have this piece of oak as a test track....mainly along the edge grain. I put the plane back together, using the freshly worked on parts...no sharpening was done, new lever cap was used. Set the test track into the vise, and gave the plane a test drive... Took a few tries...adjusted for depth, until it started to cut. It's a start....will be working on this Defiance tool, and another one.. Defiance 1-1/2" wide socket chisel....dead ringer for the Stanley version. About the bench top....had a wooden dog stuck in one of the dog holes...was unable to extract it, or even just drive it on through....so..I drill a new hole..a bit closer to the vise.. PEXTO No. 8012, 12" sweep, Samson chuck. Plane beside it? It is an older version of the Defiance planes, a #3 size. May try to get it working, as well. Drill got put back in the til.. There is a larger brace right next to it....a 14" sweep. Squares...a plough plane, and 3 spokeshaves...there is even a saw set in there.... Stay tuned...we'll see how that "Junker Plane" turns out.....
  10. From the depths of the "Dungeon Warehouse Basement" in Milwaukee Wisconsin, we have this "Poor Soul" of a Stanley Bailey No. 22 Smoothing Plane. This "Poor Soul" spent the last few years in the bottom drawer of a filing cabinet that was in the basement of a warehouse in Milwaukee that flooded 4 or 5 years ago. There were several planes in this drawer, and this one survived in the best condition. I did a little research, and found that Stanley made these planes from 1870-1943. I believe this one dates from the end years of production due to the Stanley Tools decal on the side of the wood sole. I couldn't quite make the decal out, but I believe this photo from ebay is what it's supposed to look like. As you can imagine having been submerged is going to make this one a bit of fun to bring back. I'm in the process now of trying to dry the Boxwood sole out without it totally splitting, etc. I found during my research, that this is not one of the popular "Collector" planes, but I'm going to give restoring it a go anyway. The price was right $0.00, so I won't lose anything trying. This will be my first attempt at restoring a hand plane, so I may as well start out with a good challenge. So any advice from the "Plane Experts" in going about saving this "Poor Soul" will be appreciated. Larry Old Woodworking Machinery Forum Host
  11. Got the narrow end thingy squared up, got the front footer squared away. Dragged out the slab of a top, ( two board glue up) and decided to try to level things a bit.. You'd think that a plane 3" shorter than that big #6c would be easier to push around....not. Got both faces flattened out Plane is a Stanley No.5-1/2 Type 17 Jumbo Jack same width as a #6, but is only 15" long. Got these flat, maybe a test fit of thingys? Just a few clamps to hold it in place, until I can do a few things with the tape measure... Will need a filler there to keep the top spread out above the door. Yep, the door will go here on the end. Need to make cleats to hold the floor/shelf. Debating on rounding off the corners of the top. Top had two knot HOLES, not just knots, these are through holes. Will make a plug to fill them. Router might get a workout later, as the Boss wanst a fancy edge....MIGHT have a bit for that. Going to be a Biggem...
  12. Other WIP was getting a bit long-winded, so might as well do one about the other side of the dresser build. First, a bit of glue up had to go on.. each panel was "popped out", a bead of glue run around on the rebates. Panel back in, and nailed down. I also trimmed the top of the corner posts flush with the top rail.. was going to handsaw this....decided the cordless saw was quicker....Set this mess aside, and clear the deck... The shiny end? I ran a plane around, to level the top a bit, was getting a might beat up, lately. Time to process six parts.... Ok, they DO need a bit of work. Found the shortest one, and marked the rest to match. Hauled each around to the mitre box, and trimmed the ends, making sure I was cutting the worst end, of course. Got these all nice and trimmed up.. Lots of saw marks on the sides....some rails were thicker, or wider than the others..we have ways... I also set a combo square to the distance needed. Wider ones were planed down to match the others, same with the thicker ones, finally got this stack done.. I think I can live with that. Crosscut a 2x4 into a pair of corner posts..... But they needed resawn down a bit. Set up the jig on the bandsaw to cut for a width of 3" strong. Leaves a little for the planes. Ran into a problem or two... Mitre Box was in the way. Moved bandsaw a bit forward. Blade stopped dead in it's tracks.....Had to tear things down, clean everything out. Left the cover off, and started the saw...cool block was hanging up, moved it aside. Lots of pine gunk on the saw blade. Started the saw up, and use the end of a file to scrape the gunk off the blade. Did not get near the teeth, though. Put things back together, re-set the jig Finally got both resawn down to 1" thick, by 3" wide. And, of course, ONE had to start bowing....clamped the two together, hoping the bow will settle down. Stash these aside for now.. As I needed the bench for other chores.... I can get these all molded up....next time I go to the shop...to be continued...
  13. Time to put the tool away... In the case of the old Stanley #45, means tear down, clean the parts.. Get the case down off the shelf, open it up on the bench... Kind of empty? Short rods, slitter, cove cutter, match cutter (3/16") spares parts, 2 screwdrivers..bunch of cutters.... Cam rest, 2 long rods, fence, sliding stock,,there are 2 spare spurs in there, and a bolt for one. Leaves just enough room, to lay the main stock in there. Plane is from Roxton Pond, Que. , CAN. and has the SW logo...mid 1920s model, type 20. Close the lid.. And back onto the shelf it goes...for now.
  14. One of these #3 planes got torn down, cleaned up, and put back together, today. warning: Tain't purtty at the start.... Warned ya, didn't I ? PBBlaster soaked for a while, then started a tear down. Took a bit of prying to get two items loose Hammer to adjust the lateral lever out of the way, to get the tote off ( didn't wait long enough on the soak, snapped the bolt off for the tote...easy-out..) More "fun"...getting all of these apart....BIG screwdriver, hammer, and a pair of visegrips.... IF you are afraid to get your hand very, very DIRTY...turn back now....I left well enough alone, with the front bolt....will let it soak a while.. Usual wire wheels, belt sanders, and even a ROS....and a couple of shop rags....Visegrips to hold small parts while I clean things up.... getting there.. Almost done... Sole looks better than it did...Iron may or may not get reused...kind of thin..Turtle wax Polishing Compound to shine things up.. Handles got all the crud cleaned off...time to put things back together, for now...( until I bring the Easy Out kit to the shop..) What I started with... And what it looks like....after 2 hours of soak and work... May work on either the Craftsman No. 3, or the Stanley No. 6, Type 7/8 next....or wait until tomorrow...
  15. I understand it is not a good idea to use a plane on the edges of plywood because of the glue. My question: will doing so damage the plane in any way other than dulling the iron? If this is the only problem, a few minutes with the WorkSharp 3K will clear that up. Sometimes,when fitting small pieces, it is necessary to remove minute amounts, impractical or even dangerous with a table saw. Seems like a hand plane would be the ideal tool for such a job.
  16. Saw this plane on Facebook. Lady asking anything about it. I see Stanley bought Bailey's patents and machinery in 1869 and then used them and that is why Stanley planes are Bailey . So thinking this is before 1869 ?? Edit : Opps did not do enough research . It is a G-3 Gage Patent plane. Patent date 1885. When Stanley bought the company in 1919 and produced this plane from 1920 till 1920. Mystery solved but it does not make sense . I have never seen one of these , has anyone ?
  17. Caleb James is a premier tool maker, one of the best in the world, and he also has a neat free plan area for the exact same tools he makes. Enjoy. Free Plans — Caleb James Maker CALEBJAMESMAKER.COM I offer these technical drawings for you to freely use. I ask that you please reserve these for your personal use. Enjoy!
  18. Finally got the plane I ordered from veritas at the woodworking show. Alot of plane for 129.00
  19. One of the very first woodworking blogs I ever became interested in is this blog by Kari Hultman, a wonderful craftswoman and artist really, in my opinion she brings hand tooled woodworking to another level of refinement. Kari and I have been social media buddies since the old days of this blog, even though Kari has picked up a new line of work and interest (leather), I still visit her blog frequently. It reminds of a time on the internet when things were just simpler, and straight forward, and her old blog is still live, whenever I visit the blog, a nice cozy warm feeling comes over me, enjoy!
  20. found these recently. no great shakes, but like the bits being there.
  21. I wrote this review some years ago now. Since my website is likely to be new for many here, this set of articles (4 in all) may be of interest. It is more than about the Veritas Custom Planes, and how to design your own, but about hand plane use. Link: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolReviews/VeritasCustomPlanes1.html Regards from Perth Derek
  22. Here is the 3rd version of the shoulder Plane. Input from an experienced wooden plane authority, I made some changes to improve the shoulder plane. 1. Enlarged handle so all 4 fingers would fit in side. 2.Remove the finger bumps inside the handle. 3. Tilt the handle 12°forward. 4. Make the bump on the back of the handle more rounded. 5. When I increased the size of the handle, I made the plane longer and higher to balance out the increase in handle size, Here are the end results. It is much more comfortable,and seems easier to use. The last pictures are the comparison of the first one with the latest one. Herb
  23. I have a stanely 12-904 and questions. What angle should the blade be sharpened to 30 or 25 degrees? What is the main use for this plane? I am having trouble getting this plane to work any help appreciated! Is this a smoothing or jack plane?
  24. Here is my latest creation in my wooden plane creations. Black Walnut, Holly racing stripe. Shellac Finish Herb
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