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Found 13 results

  1. Caleb James is a premier tool maker, one of the best in the world, and he also has a neat free plan area for the exact same tools he makes. Enjoy. Free Plans — Caleb James Maker CALEBJAMESMAKER.COM I offer these technical drawings for you to freely use. I ask that you please reserve these for your personal use. Enjoy!
  2. Might be the Dr. Feelgood? Got a wild-arsed idea last night. To take the dresser build system I was using in the late 1980s, and tweek it just a bit. Back then, I could start at 0800 on a Saturday morning, and by 2000 that night, have a 5 drawer Chest of Drawers standing in the shop, awaiting a finish. Haven't quite the room that I had back then. Thought about doing a little step-by-step of how those were made, back then. They usually sold @$20 per drawer, BTW. Back then, lumber supply was about five 2x4x8's, a 1 x 6 x8' or 1 x 8x8's one for each drawer. At least one sheet of 1/4" Luann plywood ( because it was cheap), and not a whole lot more. One 2 x 4 x 8 was reserved for the top's frame. Two more were ripped into 3/4" thick strips. And the last two ( and the best of the bunch) were cut for the 4 corner posts. Each 1x provide the four sides of a drawer. Drawers were 3/4 overlay, dovetails at the front, dado for the backs. I got to be very good at changing tablesaw blades. Sides were frames, with some of the 1/4" plywood as panels....insides of the case were smooth and flat, to guide the drawers. Webframes were made from the ripped down 2 x 4 x 8....and some of the wider face frame parts were also ripped. Usually began by figuring out the spacing of the webframes, to find out how long the corner posts needed to be. had to allow for the top frame to be a tad wider, and the bottom face frame piece at 3-1/2" wide.. I could either mill, assemble and stack 6 webframes, with kickers, or work on the corner posts. usually the frames were done first...as I didn't slow down much doing the posts. Corner posts.....Used to be, not much else was done, decided to thin things done a bit, one day....both edges were ripped off. Leaves a nice straight, square 3" wide post....most 2 x 4s have a good face, and a not-so good face....I would rip the not-so good off, to make the posts 1" thick......much better than a lumpy 1-3/8" x 3-1/2" with rounded corners. Post got a bit more work, back then it was on the tablesaw I set the 4 posts, to see which would be the best for the front. Marked them as to where the inside was. Couple of cuts to make a rebate down the back edge of the two back posts ( holds the plywood back) Then all got a rebate along the inside edge. 1/4" x 3/4" wide. A foot detail was sawn...usually started about 5" about the foot, and tapered to 1" square at the foot.....thinner posts could get a fancier curved cut out, The second rebate was to house a series of rails, and plywood panels....and the rails needed a few cuts. a rebate to house the plywood panel...each edge as needed ( top and bottom rail only got one), and a dado on each end, to sit flush in the post's rebate. Usually, a cove bit was used on the "show" edges...cove on the posts were even with the outside of the rails. Well, that be a start, was lunchtime, anyway... IF anyone wants, I could keep this write-up going....IF and when I get back to the shop, I might try this build....slowly.
  3. Trying to draw up my own blue prints for a concealment cabinet. And yes.... draw. I don't have the money for a CAD program or the patience to learn to use one. Besides, I kinda like the process of drawing it out. Others who also draw out your own... are there any tips/tricks/things I should know? It's a pretty simple cabinet. Once I get ahold of my phone, I'll share what I've drawn up thus far. Please feel free to let me know what I'm missing (as if I would ever doubt that you all will do just that LOL). I'll load pictures on a reply.
  4. I went over and left these plans. He wasn't home so I left him this. I think he should consider this for he would be the talk of the town.
  5. Ok, so much for a vacation from the shop.....The Boss has seen a Project she wants built.... Hmmm, more Flat-Pack....she wants this to replace this ugly thing.. When this was built, it was based on a 4 drawer Chester Drawers I was selling....then it became a pantry...and now a catch-all...open them doors at your own risk... Too tall, too wide, too deep, too full of... Already had some oak on hand.. 1 x12 x 3'6", three 3/4 x 6" and two at 3/8" thick x 6". Not nearly enough....sat down to make a drawing...while a second load of Oak sits around, getting used to the house... World Class Drafting Table? Tape measure to check a few sizes I need to match... Natasha: "You have Plan, Darlink?" Boris: "I always have Plan, they don't always work out, but I always have Plan" A front view. And, because i am frugal, and don't want to waste a second sheet of paper...flip this over.. Basic sizes called out. Locations of shelves. Cubby holes changed to Drawers...Oak? Counting what I had on hand..there is around 20bf of Oak sitting here...the new arrivals? Seem to have a bit of grain to them...and for me to work either around, or use... Drawer fronts? And.. Not all the grain I can use, though.. I will need some 1 x 3 stock....Hmmm. And the "bundle"...has a couple 3/8" thick boards...might be to build the paneled doors? Bookcase was built back in the mid 1980s...BTW. So...get the work jeans back on, tomorrow....and cut a few planks, and glue up a few side panels? Will do the base unit first...then the topper. Will see how long this project takes...stay tuned..
  6. Guys, been asked to make some of these and was wondering if anyone has built some they really like. Found a couple designs online, but would like to hear from someone who has actually sat in them.
  7. Plank that is 4/4 x 13" x 49" ? Maybe a Five Drawer Chest of Drawers? Two of the "five" would be half width drawers at the top. Frame and panel sides....raised panels. I have a decent supply of 4/4 Maple I cut rip to make the four posts....have a supply of 3/4" for the panels and drawer fronts...plenty ( I hope ) of thinner Poplar for drawer sides. May buy a sheet of 1/4" plywood for the bottoms of the drawers....and the back of the case.. May add some of the Black Walnut as edging for the top? maybe use it as the "dividers" between the drawers? 7 bf should be enough? Primary wood will be that Curly Maple I have just sitting around.... Moral of this post? Painkiller induced naps produce some wild dreams... As soon as I can draw again with this bad thumb. I may do a few drawings to work from...IF anyone wants to see them..
  8. Free from Jeff Branch https://jeffbranchww.com/2017/02/15/free-woodworking-plan-the-jackson-dresser/
  9. Our generous sponsor, Woodcraft, is making available a free plan for a dining room table. This is for a limited time. Get your plan at- https://www.woodcraft.com/blog_entries/dynamite-dining-table-done-easy
  10. Here is a handy plan for building a traditional English Shaving Horse. http://www.veritastools.com/Content/Assets/ProductInfo/EN/05L1901AI.pdf
  11. "Of course I have Plan.." Or so Boris always said. I took the time out today to do a bit of drawing on paper, using a pen and a straightedge. Resting the knee, of course. Anyway, I start with a few lines.. What you see here is the front edge of the corner post. The horizontal lines are webframes, with a face frame attached. . I will be using a couple 1x8 x8' planks to make the bottom two drawers. So that is where the 7-1/2" comes from. Face frames are dovetailed into the corner posts. Hashed lines show where the webframes sit behind the face frame. That little square is a Kicker, I add two to the undside of the bottom frame, and one in the middle of each webframe above it. After a while of doddling.. I come up with this...mess More to find out how long to cut the corner posts, and to get the spacings for the drawers. I also have to get a couple 1 x6 x8' planks, and a 1x4 x8' or two. Top will be a 4 /4 frame, with a plywood insert. I get one drawer out of each 1 x plank, and then add a 1/4" plywood bottom. All of this, to find out what size to cut four 4/4 x 3" posts. ( 42-1/2" long) So...about the sides these posts will make? Well, I mitre cut the foot. The Horizontal here is a rail/stile (?) that will connect the front and back posts at each spot where a webframe will be on the inside. I intend to use the sash cutter on the Stanley 45 to make a molded edge on the outside of both the stiles and rails. It will also give me a rebate on the inside. I can then add a plywood panel into the rebates. About five panels on each side. A tenon will connect into a mortise, the tenon on each end of the cross piece, and the mortise into the corner post. Page two also shows a few details of the webframes... Center piece is a kicker, to keep drawers from tipping down. Counter bores for screws, I can attach each webframe to a side with two screws. I can then come back after the case is squared up with a back, and add the face frame pieces. Dovetails on each end, and a line of glue to attach to the webframes. . Long time ago, IF I have all the lumber on hand in the old two car garage workshop on a Saturday morning.....by supper time that night, a chest of drawers would be completed, awaiting a finish on Sunday. Might take just a wee bit longer, now?
  12. Start with a length of 1x6 pine. You will need two of these front legs.. I use a 3/8" roundover bit for the outside edges. You will need two for the back legs, as well. I use a 3/8" drill to make cutting that one curved spot a bit smoother. Again, chose one face for the "outside" and round it over. The reason for using a 1x6? Is because of the "body" . Curve at the front of the neck is a 3/8" drill bit, behind the neck I use a 1/4" drill bit. These necks have a bad habit of snapping. The notch to hold the Antler piece is sized to the thickness of the antler piece. Speaking of which.. Max the Wonder Pup decided to chew one tine. It is supposed to match the other long tine. Notch matches the thickness of the body. This and the body get a round-over on both faces. A few more looks at the body? That "tail is about a 1" diameter circle. Right on the tip of the nose...it should be a flat spot to glue the red fuzzy ball for the red nose. Squares on this grid are at 1" intervals. Wasn't sure IF anyone can do a file of some sort, to print these out. Legs get a spot of glue and two 1" finish nails. Had a lot of trouble separating them from the body. Used to use a "golden oak " stain for the body, and a dark walnut for the antlers. When done and a big red bow glued in place.. Should look like these two in front. The fun part is when you attach the legs, as they are what the reindeer sits on, they need to be in-line with the bottom edge of the body, no rocking allowed.. I do they with a narrow "scrolling" (1/8) blade on the bandsaw. A scrollsaw could be used. Any questions? be sure to ask...
  13. Woodcraft has a delightful free tutorial to build a Little Library, not only is the plan wonderful, but the concept is awesome. I love small grass roots community driven ideas. This one is really cool. Click on Little Free Library
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