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Found 16 results

  1. I’m looking to add more wood working equipment to my workshop. Let me me know what you have to offer! Thank you!
  2. Ron Altier

    Cartoon Owl

    My daughter requested me to make a cartoon like owl for a very close friend who loves owls so much she even has an owl tattoo. I can't carve due to a condition in my hands, so I had to use my woodworking machines. I started with a pine block, cut the basic shape on the band saw and turned it down on the lathe. Then shaped with my spindle sander. I used a picture of a real owl for inspiration. She wanted it cartoon like, so I put spectacles and a hat on him. Hope she likes it.
  3. Here is an interesting video of what a woodworker can do when necessity calls. Herb
  4. I see that Eagle America is selling a oscillating belt/spindle sander that looks a lot like the one ridgid sells at home depot. Same price as the ridgid one too. Wondering if it is the same?
  5. Fred W. Hargis Jr

    Porter Cable restorer

    So I just made one of my many trips to Loews to get a roll of 14-2 wire, and saw this thing sitting in the middle of the isle. I didn't stop to look closely and as I walked pass I just though it was a small drum sander that worked like a belt sander (while wondering who the heck would want such a thing). Indeed, there were lots of drum sander sleeves on display with it. Nut those pics seem to show it has a cutter drum (they use it on concrete?). Anyone grabbed on yet?
  6. Yesterday I managed to extract myself from the busy life of Honey Do's and kids daily events and get a little time in the shop with our Claro Rocker. A week ago when I started laying out the arms ontop of the arm pads that are basically the top of the front legs, I realized I made a major mistake in my calculations for the arm rests to meet up at the proper height to the joint at the rear leg/backrest area. I was a full 1/4" too low, the joinery was not going to meet up where it was supposed to by my previously laid out joints. After much thinking and tinkering with ideas and layouts, I finally came to the conclusion that I'll simply increase the height of the arm rest by adding a 1/4" block to raise up the arm rest. Since this is walnut, the newly added pad will be un-noticeable. In some regards these rockers are un-forgiving in errors, but in many regards these rockers are also very forgiving in the sense that this is in essence a sculpted work, so errors and mis-steps often times can be carved, shaped, and filed away or to blend, and in this case, it is a forgiving error/ Images below are not exciting, they simply show my modified pad glued up to the top of the front leg pad to increase the height of the arm rest. First image shows my pad glued up and secured with my quick grips just to get them in place. One thing I like to do is save sawn cut-outs from a piece I shape so we can use them as clamping cauls, you'll notice the blocks at the bottom of the shaped arm pad, they were initially cut out for the the preliminary shaping of the arm rest block, I held on to them to use as I clamp up the arm rest to the block, but I was also able to use them in this fix for clamping cauls. Next images show the clamps all in place on both arm rests pads. Unrelated to the arm rest FUBAR, are more images showing the preliminary shaping of the front leg seat joints. I rough and blend the joints in with a 4.5" right angle grinder. But first I need to secure the chair to my bench. Next I take to grinding the general shape of the joint. As it takes shape I'll then finish it up with a combination of my ROS and some files. Image below shows the joint blended and formed, no gaps in the glue joint either, this is a successful chair joint. To reach the other side of the joint, I need to position the chair on the floor, and brace it with my legs and feet, and work on the joint from a comfortable height as I sit. The joint is not finished, but it's coming along. I use the same technique as I did with the other side of the joint in images above. Thanks for following along, now contrary to popular propositions and laws being formed and voted on, I feel these are some "joints" we can all get behind!
  7. I have been recruiter by a friend to sell a belt sander that belonged to his dad. It is a Doerr bench top sander that looks to be made maybe in the 50's or 60's. Anyone know anything about it and perhaps its value? I know it is cast iron and darned heavy.
  8. GerryinBelleRiver

    Delta 6 x 48 Belt sander

    Picked this up from another member over on the Canadian forum. It was in what can only be described as tough shape with no motor. It was completely encased in want looked to be a hard shell of bondo dust. At least thats what I assumed it to be given the seller said it came out of a body shop. But what the hay, I love a challenge. Fist step was to remove all the crud. Turns out it was fairly easy to scrape off. After complete disassembly I soaked all the painted parts in a strong hot bath of TSP which moved any remaining crud. Follwed this up with a two day soak in citric acid solution to remove all the rust as well as some of the paint.Removed the paint with paint remover. Discovered that a couple of the legs had been bent and twisted so I had to straighten them out. The belt cover was dinged and pushed in a bit. Some work on the dings and some bondo worked fixed that problem As usual the top cover had a groove worn it it from a poorly tracking belt. Some JB and bondo disguised this. Wire wheeled and buffed all the shiny parts. Painted it up. Made new decals and put it back together. Put on a 1 HP motor I had in my rathole, install a new motor starter and drive belt. The machine did try my paitence when I was tracking the new sanding belt. By the way this is best done with the side cover and top cover removed. Fortunately I had been warned about this in advance. Turned out good enough to earn a place next to the rest of my Delta stuff. I also discovered during the coarse of the rebuild that I was missing two parts, a front dust deflector that goes at the bottom of the belt and a small dust deflector that goes inside the dust chute. I made the deflector for the inside (sorry forgot to take picture) I was making the one for the bottom of the belt but gave it second thoughts. I ended up using the one in the picture below by the previous owner. It no doubt catches more dust as it strats just below the table. I know it cuts down on the belt lenght in the horizontal position but I don't that as a problem as I am likely to use it in the vertical position most often.
  9. Limited supplies limited time - - - Thing is the paper they are going to make their money on the paper http://www.ultimatetools.ca/products/pro-5-ltd-5-random-orbit-sander-limited-edition
  10. There’s only a limited quantity, so get one while they last! Pre Order Today! Sander Ships Free only from (http://www.woodcraft.com/product/201234/festool-pro-5-ltd-random-orbital-sander-limited-edition.aspx) on November 1st! Now’s your chance to own the latest Festool Random Orbital Sander, the PRO 5 LTD at a very inexpensive price of only $99.00 at Woodcraft. Details: http://blog.woodcraft.com/2016/10/festool-introduces-the-limited-edition-pro-5-ltd-random-orbital-sander/
  11. What little I could get done, at least. Found out we were taking the GrandBRATS home a couple hours later than I thought....snuck off to the shop. Had a slab to resaw down to a batten...wound up breaking the bandsaw blade, digging out another (DULL) one, and finishing the cut. Then the planes took over. And the beltsander. and the spokeshave. Rounded both ends to match the curve of the top, Beltsander to taper each end a bit. No.3 plane and spokeshave to bevel the sides. Whew. Dust and shavings everywhere. Meh, it will have to do. The forstner bit was for that hole. Will come back later, add a counter bore for the post to sit in a bit better.. Doesn't have to go down very far...maybe 1/8". Did I say I made a mess..where is Igor when I need him..
  12. steven newman

    Lid work, on that box

    Used the vise to hold this box still, long enough to mark a line clear around.. Trying to land anywhere but right in a pin. Brought down the "new" saw, to cut the lines.. Yeah, it is the cordless one from the yard sale. It is also about as heavy as my all-metal saws. Cut my way around all four sides, with the second narrow end last, still had a bit of a bind.. Wound up with this. Set the bottom aside, for now. Added the insert for the top.. Just nailed in place, no glue. Then came those hinges... Had to remember which way it sat on the bottom part of the box. Vise to hold things in place. Try using these screws, before the BP Meds.. A pilot hole of sorts was made with a small nail.....Hinges are on, maybe load this thing up? Might work. Unloaded it, and sanded, sanded, and filled and sanded Sanding filler was just glue and bandsaw sawdust. Not sure what all was in the dust, but, when sanded smooth.. Most of the stuff is filled in. Loaded this thing up again Closed the lid, and added the first coat of the "Brew" Will let it dry, then work on it a bit more. Maybe go looking for a latch? Maybe by this weekend, it might be done?
  13. For sale, Performax 16-32 Sander. Local pick up only in Southern CA. If you live in a 100 mile radius I can deliver. Conveyor belt has a small area that is ripped, other than that this machine works perfect. Purchased in 2006. Make an offer! Contact me via PM for details.
  14. I dug out an old Porter Cable 330 Type 1 1/4 sheet sander that I had set aside years ago because it just stopped working. At the time the pad stopped vibrating, nothing moved, I smelled burned rubber or plastic, the motor would whine but nothing moved. At the time I was installing residential doors for a part time job, and I did not have the time to fix it, or even entertain the idea of fixing it. When your are in business and on the road like I was, time is money, and I was in the middle of installing a front entry door and I needed another sander, and quick! So I ran down to the Home Depot, picked up another 330 and returned back to the job. When I arrived home that night I pulled the dead soldier sander out of my truck, threw it my cabinet where it sat for about 10 years till now. I took it apart a few days ago and found that the only problem was a rubber coupling that joins the pad holder to the motor spindle, was sheared in half. So I ordered one from eReplacementParts.com and had it in my hands a week later. Below is the old dead man, Since I already had it apart to find the problem, I went ahead and mocked it back together for this topic and took it apart again for the images. Below image we are removing the pad from the base. Below is the pad, the base and the motor, it was very easy to remove, just 4 Phillips head screws. A closer look shows the rubber coupling in the counterweight at the base, and the other half of the rubber coupling at the motor end of things. That is not supposed to be like that! I went ahead and removed the two halves, I was able to get a pair of pliers around the rubber portion at the base plate and loosen it from there, then the top or motor side of the coupler I was able to simply spin off with my fingers. You'll see the old sheared coupler laying above the new coupler. The new coupler in place below. I used the appropriate Allen wrench size to spin the counter weight screw while I held the fan in place with a screw driver, just anything to prevent the motor from spinning while I am tightening the counter weight screw down, while turning the counter weight screw you are also turning the coupler back into the motor side of the sander, the threads are both in the same direction, so both the pad base and the motor are coming together as you tighten the screw. What I did not show was at the beginning of the repair, in order to get the Allen wrench onto the counterweight screw I had to pull off some clear plastic that originally covered the counter weight screw compartment , I believe this is a dust cover of sorts, so I simply replaced it with some clear packing tape. Next the sanding pad is reinstalled. And below again is a last shot of the culprit, as long as that was sheared in half, my sander was not going to do anything, the motor was spinning, but nobody was home! So, if you have a sander that stops vibrating, but the motor seems to be running fine, chances are it's a sheared coupler that transfers the energy of the motor to the pad base. Hope this may help someone in the future. By the way, eReplacementParts.com was as nice experience, their website is full of parts, easy to find, and for my case it was not expensive, the item arrived standard ground shipping, one week later as promised, and I'd buy again from eReplacementParts any day all day. My coupler is Part No. 117 below.
  15. Cliff

    My Disc Sander

    I got a honkin huge 1.250" thick by 18.68" diameter jig plate disc from SandSmachine: Cost $78.00 A cheap Penn State Industries steel faceplate for my PM lathe. Everything else for the build I have on hand.   The jig plate is 36 pounds  nothing I can do is going to flex it.   It's just under my lathe max spin diameter of 22"   I tapped and drilled the jig plate for 1/4-20 helicoils with the detents in 10 places  Two of them were just to use for dogs to clamp the faceplate in place while I centered it and transferred the holes from the face plate to the jigplate.   Sadly and with much whimpering and whining I had to face the fact that my Drill Press didn't have the reach to get the job done so I used hand drills.   The Penn state faceplate was annoying because they made it so that the arbor of my lathe just poked through it by ohhh maybe 0.060" So I had to fabricate a 1.250" diameter  spot face in the center of the jig plate to clear that. I used a  milwaukee metal cutting coring bit and a little spotfacing tool to chew the material out of the plate.   IT worked but was a PITA that I'd not have need to endure had Penn State just done it right  Well, I did say it was  a cheap faceplate, so there you go.   Anyway after I mounted it there was a misalignment of about 0.040" TIR and I had to turn the jig plate on the lathe.  I used a Doug Thompson Bottoming gouge and the metal cut like Buttah. I  used a little C clamp  on the  gouge to set the depth of cut so I wasn't just following the  circumference of the jib plate disc.  So it was an interrupted cut. I lubed it with paste wax. Worked great. It is perfectly balanced.  Face of the jug plate is flat within 0.005" TIR.  I could shim but I'll leave it.   Here's Pix         Now I gotta  get some Elmer's repositionable spray adhesive and a cheap widebelt from Supergrit to cut my discs from And of course build a little plywood box to be the table. I'll prolly apply some Formica I have around to the ply for durability
  16. steven newman

    Update On The Screen Door

    Went out and bought some sandpaper. 60 and 100 grit stuff. Sanded the entire door down with both grits....Dusted the junk off ( turbed it up on it's side, tap it up and down a few times) and opened a can of.... Kilz Exterior Primer.. Coated one face nice and thick, flipped over onto a couple plastic dustpans, and coat the other face. Going to allow to dry overnight, then see about a recoat in the morning. Might try an install after the paint dries. For some reason, I managed to get white paint on 9 out of 10 fingers. Just the fingers, not one other thing in the shop, other than the door, got so much as a drop of white on it. So....WHY ME? Next time I do one of these doors... I am going to have R. Lee Ermy come by to say a few "words" to the project. Army cuss words just don't seem to cover all the bases.....

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