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Found 10 results

  1. I just purchased a "set" of 5 wood turning bowl chisels, made from files. I'm curious about how these will work for turning bowls. Any advice on the maintenance of these?
  2. Yesterday I managed to extract myself from the busy life of Honey Do's and kids daily events and get a little time in the shop with our Claro Rocker. A week ago when I started laying out the arms ontop of the arm pads that are basically the top of the front legs, I realized I made a major mistake in my calculations for the arm rests to meet up at the proper height to the joint at the rear leg/backrest area. I was a full 1/4" too low, the joinery was not going to meet up where it was supposed to by my previously laid out joints. After much thinking and tinkering with ideas and layouts, I finally came to the conclusion that I'll simply increase the height of the arm rest by adding a 1/4" block to raise up the arm rest. Since this is walnut, the newly added pad will be un-noticeable. In some regards these rockers are un-forgiving in errors, but in many regards these rockers are also very forgiving in the sense that this is in essence a sculpted work, so errors and mis-steps often times can be carved, shaped, and filed away or to blend, and in this case, it is a forgiving error/ Images below are not exciting, they simply show my modified pad glued up to the top of the front leg pad to increase the height of the arm rest. First image shows my pad glued up and secured with my quick grips just to get them in place. One thing I like to do is save sawn cut-outs from a piece I shape so we can use them as clamping cauls, you'll notice the blocks at the bottom of the shaped arm pad, they were initially cut out for the the preliminary shaping of the arm rest block, I held on to them to use as I clamp up the arm rest to the block, but I was also able to use them in this fix for clamping cauls. Next images show the clamps all in place on both arm rests pads. Unrelated to the arm rest FUBAR, are more images showing the preliminary shaping of the front leg seat joints. I rough and blend the joints in with a 4.5" right angle grinder. But first I need to secure the chair to my bench. Next I take to grinding the general shape of the joint. As it takes shape I'll then finish it up with a combination of my ROS and some files. Image below shows the joint blended and formed, no gaps in the glue joint either, this is a successful chair joint. To reach the other side of the joint, I need to position the chair on the floor, and brace it with my legs and feet, and work on the joint from a comfortable height as I sit. The joint is not finished, but it's coming along. I use the same technique as I did with the other side of the joint in images above. Thanks for following along, now contrary to popular propositions and laws being formed and voted on, I feel these are some "joints" we can all get behind!
  3. I wanted to cut and design or modify some grips for my 1911 pistols with my CNC. I was able to download a couple of 3D models to use but they are in igs file format and I can’t import that into my Vcarve Desktop. I don’t have autocad so I’m looking for something to convert the files to dwg files. There are some free converters out there but I’m afraid to use any I don’t know about. Looking for some advice or if someone can convert them for me. I appreciate any help that can be offered. Ive cut one set but they were not sized exactly right.
  4. On a few occasions since mid January and while beginning held weather hostage, I've managed to hit a few fleas markets. Below are most of the bounties that chose to return home with me. I'll have a few other threads on some separate, tool specific picks. I apologize for lack of real time posts...getting warm enough weather to take the pictures then getting motivated to retrieve from my phone storage is the excuse. Enjoy the show and thanks for watching. Yep, yet another B&D drill; Two files from Habitat for Humanity Restore A new, unused pulley (hey you never know); 50 cents; Prized find was an eight station gold finch feeder for 75 cents. It's actually in very good condition; this style is hard to find locally now. H-F 25' tape measure...it was free but had nothing to do with the picture; just wanted to show it off. 3/8", single speed. Kinda' rough, but does work. $2; cord is a little scary; I may not refurb it but use as parts mule. front bearing plate seems good. Nicholson file; other than surface rust, perfect condition with handle. 50 cents 3-sided file...either Cascade or Cabcade? Other side shows USA. good teeth, surface rust, 50 cents Yep, yet another B&D drill. I seriously may have a problem. 1/4", 2 speed; works great, just needs cleaned and likely the bearing gear plate grease replaced I have another of these and use it often. I really like the 2 speed function. I gave my max limit for these model drills, $5 but it came with a "special bit" "Special bit" from above drill; it may be a special metric shank, IDK. Pay shipping and it's yours free; "Vintage" Great Neck No 97A spiral ratcheting drill/driver. In like new condition except missing of the drill bits. These were "knock-offs" of the Stanley Handyman 33H's. Probably thinking Made in Japan since it was Great Neck...Made in England. Fullers were made in Japan. They had a plastic lock ring on the chuck. Popular Woodworking book primarily writte nby Chris Schwartz $1; Shop made maple? push block; Excellent $1.50 Very little wear/use on it. (3) of the 13"w, (1) of the 10"w; red oak, all $1.95/ea; gotta' be good for something...maybe even drawer fronts. Well, thanks for looking.
  5. John Morris

    Shaping the Arm Tenon

    From the album: Shaker Furniture

    After I cut the tenons out, I took them from square to round in just few minutes, testing the fit as I went.
  6. Was at a rehab/demo/clean up store......Boss made me buy a lawn mower...walked to the Trading Post next door, and then spent $5.. They had a box of rusty files...5 for a dollar. There were a few coping saws hanging around, all needing new blades...$2 per saw. I picked out five files for working on saws, and two coping saws. A Disston/HK Porter No.10B, and a Millers Falls No. 43. Got them home cleaned thing up, and installed a blade in each saw... Today was another COLD yard sale morning....I did spent..$2 though and..inside the cases? Little bit rusty, but usable. Not too bad a day..
  7. That little tool box saw I rebuilt last week? Well, needed to hammer a few kinks out of the plate. Got rid of the "wave effect". Decided to clamp the saw up into a "fancy-schmancy" saw vise, and work on the teeth a bit Wood was a hair on the wavy side. Oh well, the wood merely needs to hold things still. Got out a small file... a jointer file. To make all the teeth the same height. Then fitted a file to a fancy handle.. Has a thumbscrew to hold onto a file. got a few teeth done, needed to add a c clamp, to pinch in the top of the jaws a bit. About three strokes, straight across, per tooth. File the saw as a rip cut. No rack was added. Didn't take all that long to get to the end.. Well all done, how about a few cuts to try this saw out? 1 st cut.. Saw cut #2. made a couple more.. I think it is about ready to go. Took it back upstairs, and placed it in the brand new Pine Tool Box. Might just work?
  8. For our East Coast woodworkers, Lie Nielsen is holding their annual open house for 2015 on July 10-11. Lie Nielsen is located in Maine, so if you are anywhere near Maine, as small a state as Maine is, it could be very close to you! If you go please report back to us and let us know how it went. Click on the image to be taken to the Lie Nielsen website for the location of their company and more details.
  9. John, As more woodworkers use Sketchup, it might be nice to be able to share "SKP" files here on the site. Could there be a provision for uploading these type of files instead of using a third party site? Lew
  10. I want to make some handles for my files. I've thought of sandwiching the tangs between two halves of wood. Hollowing out both pieces to accept the tang or milling pieces the same width as the tangs' thickness to fit along the sides. I'd use epoxy to hold the tang in the handle. I have no lathe tools but I can get round stock via other means, but I'd rather just start with square stock and shape them before or after it's installed on the file. What do you all think? Any ideas? Am I on the right track or should I just buy handles? Thanks,
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