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Saw this on Letgo. Crazy cheap deal. No room or I'd buy it. https://offerup.com/item/detail/972750118/

Pretty ok and complete machine for $300 if anyone is in the area. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/762920377879143

I love it when folks can get their hands on a brand spankin new Smith! I feel really happy for them and I just wanted to share here. Over at the FB Shopsmith Owners Group I belong too, Chad got himself a brand spankin new 7! Congrats Chad! If he has images of the unboxing I'll share them here too.

Howdy folks, just got an email requesting project images made off your Shopsmith be sent to them, if your image is used you'll get a little thanks gift. Sounds fun!

I’m hoping this is what we’re supposed to do here.........

Yesterday son and I made some Pull Out Shelving for mama, see proceeding link. And while cutting down the panel for the shelves, we had to do some cross cutting of ply on my Shopsmith. I was pleasantly, actually, very very happy, to see the quality of cut that was produced on the smith with the blade I used. Also this cut was made without a zero clearance insert, I just had on the factory insert, and the quality was perfect, I was very impressed. I don't remember getting this good a cut even on my 12" 5hp Grizz cabinet saw using an 80 tooth Amana Blue melamine blade. I am not sure what happened here, but really, I was not expecting such a great cut, so there are several factors in play here. And I'll list them. Quality of ply, the ply we are using is excellent, prefinished maple ply Made in the USA. Just great stuff. So the finish is binding the maple veneer which may be preventing tear out. Shopsmith 60 tooth 10" blade The variable speed on my smith, I had it set at "R" or 3500 RPM, (not sure if that is arbor speed or tooth speed) Given that, I am sure the factors created a concert for a perfect cut, I'll have to test the cut on some less desirable ply, and see if that makes a difference. But boy was I happy. Again, no zero clearance insert here. Something really cool about the smith, is the variable speed, so I could have done some test cuts, and played with the speed a little to get the best cut, but in this case the first cut was perfect. I just used the Shopsmith speed chart, they did not list ply in the chart, so I chose the setting for softwood thinking ply is equivalent possibly to soft wood. My Shopsmith keeps giving me surprises like this frequently, just when I think I have pushed the limits of the smith, something like this happens, and it just makes me feel better about giving up my dedicated machinery as I had, and the smith in its place. I am not advocating the idea that the smith can take the place of dedicated machinery, I don't wholly agree with that, machinery made for a specific use is going to be much better and more efficient, typically, but for those who are considering a Shopsmith in order to save space, or you moved to more confined quarters, or just to add one to your arsenal of machinery, the cut quality on ply, may not have to be a concern during your deliberations. That being said, for my use, and my tight quarters (car in garage at night) I could not imagine another machine in my shop, or needing another machine, I have had this machine for two years now, while I needed to adjust my brain around it, and the sequence of work, yes there was an adjustment period, and a honeymoon period, and a disappointment period that was due mainly to my own ignorance on how the machine works, and its capabilities. But at this time after using it for two years, and learning its operations, I am happy. And it keeps surprising me, pleasantly. Image below is the top side of the cut Image below is the underside of the cut I used this Shopsmith 1 1/4" arbor 60 tooth cross cut blade. The blade below is from their website, but I used this exact same one.

Folks, I have been looking for a Shopsmith surface planer for a reasonable price for a long time, last year I was bucks up and could have pulled the trigger on this one, it's a fantastic deal! I am not bucks up this year, but I figured I'd share if anyone cares to pick this sweetheart up, pristine, mountable, nice machine, and a great price! If you live within a 200 mile radius of Georgetown Indiana, it's worth the drive. Shopsmith Mark V Mounted 12” Planer M5990 #12362 WWW.EBAY.COM Model # 12362. Extra set of used sharpened knives. Pick up only. Knives are in good condition.

@Gene Howe what do you see in this machine? Taking the machine images at face value, assuming everything works, would this be a good deal? https://inlandempire.craigslist.org/tls/d/shopsmith-mark-5-tablesaw/6645360301.html

Artie here are the pictures of the SS’s. The first it the sliding table. Second is the lathe and belt sander, third the band saw and sanding disc, fourth is horizontal boring and lathe chisel sharpening jig. Fifth is the drill press

Hello wonderful community! The Shopsmith Forum is now open, thank you to all who helped make this happen. Cheers!

Nice old machine, very clean, only a hundred bucks! Shopsmith - tools - by owner - sale ORANGECOUNTY.CRAIGSLIST.ORG Works, great condition, missing a couple of small parts that are easy to find online.

50 years ago, I started teaching at the local Vocational School. After retiring, I continued to substitute for another 17 years. This year I finally decided to officially retire. We'll see how it goes. Our Patriot Turners- Last week, @Artie posted about his new toys he won in our raffle and asked about any additional equipment he needed to get started. Tha post generated a lot of great ideas. But @Cliff added something very important about lathe speed and safety- From Cliff's post, I found this article- Yamaguchi_SafetyMatters.pdf @Ron Altier reworked his "canary in a cage". Ron describes what changes he made in this post- @PostalTom got a beautiful new bowl gouge! Tom reviews his purchase in his post along with a minor problem. Our turners really jumped in to help him out! Both @Gerald and @HandyDan provided links to instructional videos on bowl gouge use- @FlGatorwood has authored an fantastic blog that every Shopsmith owner should checkout. Each part of the blog is linked to the next. It all starts here! @FrederickH asked the group for their experiences with African Blackwood. If you've turned this, maybe you can provide him with your suggestions- @AndrewB Showed us a purple heart bowl he finished Andrew tells us about this turning- We continue to have conversation on the thread about casting without a pressure pot- What’s Coming Up- About a month ago, a group of turners held a free YouTube event. Each turner presented a demonstration highlighting their talents. It's happening again! This time they have more presenters and the entire program is spread out over 16 hours on Saturday August 22. Check this website for complete details and schedule of presenters. https://www.virtuallycrafty.com/?fbclid=IwAR328neTuOcNMHGc_9bz_DL_FPXmwc1zDEKsaHS4v2TmhQdTmMRDaBnGSMo For The Newbies- The Woodworker's Journal has a nice tutorial by Mike Peace on making a Birdcage Awl- The entire tutorial is at- https://www.woodworkersjournal.com/project-turn-a-birdcage-awl/ @PostalTom's bowl gouge entry reminded me of how poorly I sharpen my own gouges. This is a very informative video on how to "fix" improperly ground bowl gouges. I think it might be just what I need- Expand Your Horizons- A lot of us are getting to the age where we need to take medications on a regular basis. Mike Peace turns a nice little pill holder. I think it will also work for hearing aid batteries- Stabilizing soft/punky wood has typically called for a vacuum chamber/pressure pot and a stabilizing liquid. I have relied on StarBond CA glue to harden/stabilize turnings due to the lack of that equipment . It has always worked pretty good although it can be expensive if the piece is large. Here is another method of stabilizing without the aid of vacuum/pressure. The author uses a 2 part acrylic and acetone to make a solution that soaks into the wood. The mixing instructions start at about 3:15 in the video- I sent a message to the folks at Alumilite to ask their opinion. Their response was that they had never tried it. New Turning Items- The folks at Woodturners Wonders have a couple of new items- First, their sanding bundle- Second is a new lubricant. This one is suited for use on their CBN wheels- Click on the images for the links to these products. Everything Else- Rick Turns video list from last week- Haven't been to the lathe this week- making rolling pin blanks. Lots of stock milled and the glue-ups started. Each pin requires 4 individual glue-ups and trims before they go to the lathe. Second step in glue-up waiting for trimming Trimmed pins dadoed and waiting on third glue-up One in the clamps; one hour wait. Safe turning and stay well

So you get a Shopsmith and it is new to you. This versatile machine will do or help you do many things in woodworking. Some folks think that this machine is only a lathe, but it is so much more. This is dedicated to the Mark V (500 series - 500, 505, 510, 520 including the Power Pro). You should inventory to see if you have the following parts. In the lower left is the powerhead with the quill showing. On the masonite board are the tool rest, live center, dead center, box with faceplate, adjustment insert, and tail stock. Of course the mighty and almost universal allen wrench is with the red handle. It is 5/32". These tubes go into the end of the way tubes or the end holder for the way tubes. These collars can be loosened to allow for height adjustment. There will be another picture to show how to the 2 spurs align. Before we do that we need to make one other adjustment. This is the adjustment for the live center holder. Since I know where mine goes, it takes about 10 seconds to set and tighten the set screw. Once you get this set, you will rarely every have to set it again. At this point, you can't be sure that it is set correctly so just enough force to hold it in place. Time to set up the tailstock.

I've just received a molder set and dado set; I'm planning to use them on my Shopsmith Mark V/500. I'm wanting to build a rip fence (vertical) extension which can also be used as a sacrificial for work right up against the fence. Right now I'm planning to use a 1 x 8 x 2' piece of lumber and dado out a 3/4" wide x 3/8" deep slot lengthwise where I can mount a pair of featherboards to help control the work as it moves past the heads. I have one featherboard from Shopsmith already; I was planning to mount that horizontally before the blade. Last I checked Rockler had some featherboards on sale; I was going to get two from them and then cut my slot so that they come down within 1/2" of the saw table at maximum extension. First question: Does this sound like a good plan? Second question: What kind of wood would the more experienced hands here recommend? I should be able to get poplar for $7.88, oak for $11.28, and then of course there's always whitewood or softwood. I'm new at this and I'll always be able to go back and re-do it in the future if necessary, but what would the old hands suggest to a beginner?

I'm just getting started in this hobby, but one of the things I know I'll need for the projects* I want to build is a router and router table. My funds are modest, but I'd rather save my pennies for another month or two and get something which will be good for the long haul than just get whatever's on sale at the local big box. I do want quality, but I'm not big into bells and whistles. I generally prefer used and US-made to Cheap Chinese Crap, but good older equipment may be hard to find at a reasonable price and it's possible that I'll want or need some features that the older models may not have. Can anyone make recommendations about what has worked for them and what they might advise for me? * (Immediate projects: General home repair carpentry and cabinet making. Longer term, want to build some custom furnishings. There's a plan for a DIY grandfather clock up on the Shopsmith website that I'm salivating over, but that will be a couple of years down the road.)

I just learned I got a slow speed grinder built into my Shopsmith! How cool! Keep your woodworking, gardening and other household cutting tools sharp with Shopsmith's Grinding Wheel Guard and Grinding Wheels WWW.SHOPSMITH.COM Keep your woodworking, gardening and other household cutting tools sharp with Shopsmith's Grinding Wheel Guard and...

I knew it! In order to be a Shopsmith owner, you must be logical about your woodworking! Except, Spock is using the tablesaw backwards?

@Jim from Easy Wood Tools, or anyone in the know, does EWT make a lathe chuck for the Shopsmith? I thought it was discussed at one time, or perhaps considered for development? Thanks guys.

Just a little tech tip, the one thing I absolutely dislike about my Shopsmith bandsaw, is later on in their infinite wisdom, they decided to remove the convenient band saw access door knobs with allen screws. So when you need to get in and change a blade, you have to break out the allen wrench and unloosen three screws, a tad time consuming, not horribly, but why? So I was goofing around a couple days ago and just happened to look at the table saw fence knobs, and a rare flash of light materialized in my lil ol pea brain, and I thought to self, hey self, those fence knobs sure look like they'd replace those allen screws on the bandsaw very nicely. Because one of the cool things about the Shopsmith, is everything seems to fit everywhere else, in many regards, so why not these knobs? Allen screws for access door, gotta be taken out to access for cleaning, adjustments and blade changes. Not a deal breaker, but why not knobs? These allen screws go into the band saw access door. These knobs are the ones on the tables saw fence to hold the extension tubes in place And now those knobs above, are in the bandsaw access cover below So now that I know they fit, I am purchasing additional knobs from Shopsmith for my bandsaw. Just in case any owners out there are dealing with the same frustration, this is one solution of many I am sure.

Learn something new every day, a Shopsmith table saw! I have also seen a Shopsmith traditional work bench too that looked pretty robust. Found this saw on the Shopsmith sales group on Facebook. The owner says this one has the under-table Radial Arm Saw capacity. Huh!!!! Who woulda thunk!

I was wondering, if I could expand the turning capacity of my Shopsmith, by installing longer way tubes, if I had way tubes say a foot longer, or even 6 inches, I wonderful if there would be a negative by doing this, will the rest of the machine work well? As long as I have the ceiling height for Drill Press mode? Will the longer way tubes sag? Any feedback is greatly appreciated.

@Artie or any Shopsmith owners, just curious, do you have the surface planer? And if so, how do you like it?

For years I have tried to find a slow grinder that I could afford. Well, another factor raised it's head called space. So, Shopsmith had an advertisement that I found to be plausible, not perfect. https://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/catalog/sh_grindingwheelguard.htm So sorry you have to click on the link to see the item, but pictures of mine will spare you. Like the normal attachments for Shopsmith, you have to attach the arbor to the quill and then attach the housing to the housing. This is the stone dresser that I purchased from someone else. This is a necessary tool for grinding. Here it is turned so the stone is turning away from you for honing. Picture of label on top of unit.

When I bought this farm I found an old Shopsmith lathe and got to running. It had few parts for it around so I have kind of cobbled things together, it is a tad redneck but it works. I have yet to buy a 5/8 shaft adapter to allow me to use lathe chucks and I have yet to buy a lathe chuck, but I do have a faceplate and a redneck driver mechanism made from a bolt and lag bolt welded together with a nut slipped over and welded in place and then a washer welded to the nut and bent into a "u" shape. I just drill out a 3/4 inch by 3/16 inch deep hole and run the drive mechanism into the wood and rives the long branch pieces that I use to make handles quite well. It also drives the short branch pieces that I use to make dowels quite well also. It does not drive much of anything else though, well not safely anyways... lol... I realized a couple days ago that the tailshaft was just a regular morse taper so I stole the taper and drill chuck out of my old floor drill press and put that in the tail. I built a "very" redneck tool rest today but it works. This is what I have setup so far... With the addition of the faceplate and the tool rest today I was able to try my attempt at an actual project. I figured I might try a simply vase to test out the Western White pine wood and the faceplate attachment and lastly the ability to drill with the stationary tailstock drill chuck. I was sent to town to go the store earlier so I was unable to complete the project but I will get back to it tomorrow and see if I can get it drilled out. I have to haul another load of willow and poplar logs back home to feed the mill but I should have time to play around on the lathe I hope. This what I have so far on my simple vase test. I sanded up a little bit some sandpaper and when I noticed the shine I grabbed an old piece of leather I removed from a saddle repair and ran that over it a bit and increased the shine a little bit more. I got a little carried away with the pressure, the leather actually started smoking. I wasn't concerned about until I stopped the piece and noticed how hot the wood got and then noticed a small hairlinf crack in it. So one wants to watch how much heat they create in sanding and polishing apparently. I found some large Western White pine logs that I had forgotten about down below my dam yesterday and I have a some decent pile of branches as well, I am going to get those collected before snow falls and get them in the shop to practice on this winter. I have dead dry willow out along the county road I want to get as well that should be turnable as well. I have a several; trailer loads of green willow and green poplar right now, I am going to try to learn how to dry it and I will go ahead and set aside a few dozen logs to dry out over the next year or so. I also cut down a dead apple tree yesterday that my goats ate and killed about a year and a half ago, still a little green in some of it but most of it is pretty dry. Anyone ever try to turn spruce? I have a fair bit of dead standing spruce, I don't much like milling it as it is about pitchiest wood I have ever seen, it literally just oozes out while I am cutting boards. But the dead dry trees might actually work for turning, they have that severely twisted grain that does a 306 circuit about every 3 to 5 feet and often half natural splits in the center that could make for some interesting looks in a turned piece. Can I cut wood into lathe blanks green and then paint the ends for drying? This is the setup I made for my mill to cut lathe blanks, I cut a few dozen poplar blanks a few years back but most of them cracked to badly to useable. If I paint the ends will that solve the cracking issues or should I leave them in log form and cut the lathe blanks when dry? Might as well throw in a picture of my dowel turning setup, I make dowels to use as fasteners on the private bridges that I build, store bought dowel material is expensive so I made this simple little setup from an old cross slide vice and an old flat file. Handy little bugger, makes dowels quick and easy..